Vehicle Maintenace General

  • Want to keep track of this thread?
    Accounts can bookmark posts, watch threads for updates, and jump back to where you stopped reading.
    Create account
In the case of Nissans, since their CVTs can fail even before the 60k mark, people have said to change the CVT fluid every 30k miles, to try to prevent that. And even that may not be enough to prevent it from grenading itself.

Also, Subaru CVTs have had questionable reliability on them. They had to extend the warranty on some of the CVTs, and the Ascent's CVT on the first years were noticeably bad, in terms of failures.

We can also add pre-2020 Hondas to the list of questionable CVTs. This video below shows a Honda tech doing the magnet trick to see if CVT parts have dropped into the pan.


Another note for Hondas, head gasket failures are sadly becoming a thing on the 1.5T engines. The 2.0 engine has been good though. Hondas are still good cars but you have to choose carefully these days.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Is5-qkYlrzs?si=wsNQuUupP9vgtA4l
 
A Chevy C/k-10/20/30 from the 80's is a seriously God tier motor vehicle. You can still find some for very reasonable prices and the aftermarket for parts is enormous. You can basically build a completely new one on your own if you were inclined with updated suspension on a chassis built from scratch. This goes for F150's as well. I have 40 years on the same engine. Long beds are the shit for transporting material, or if you got a cap you could sleep in it. The MPG is kinda shit, but you got two tanks!
Any Chevy truck made before 1990s is god tier. I’ve got a 1969 C-20 for my farm truck. It’s got a 350 small block with a SM465 transmission and an HO52 rear end. With a 4.56:1 rear end and 6.55:1 in first gear I can pull a 2 horse trailer with 2 draft horses in it no problem. Down side is no over drive and the reared only has races bearings and seals available. It’s got 200,000+ miles (speedometer is only 5 digits) on the original power train.

It the epitome of a farm truck. It’s three different colors (black primer, white primer, original maroon) and has no A/C, no power steering, no radio, drum brakes on around. But it’s got the anti sway bar option, the reinforced rear suspension and a factory renforced bumper entirely made of 1/4”steel.

The motor is sounding tired and the whole truck could use an overhaul. I am debating between doing a diesel swap (which would include the transmission) or just buying a crate motor and fixing up the current drivetrain. If I keep the current drivetrain, should I change out the rear end and if so what should I replace it with.
 
If the oil plug on your car is at or below anything protecting it, don't get one of these.
Well, you can, but you may well be replacing the oil pan when you hit something you otherwise would have cleared.
I've run em for around hundred k no issues yet, they really don't stick out that much from the pan installed. I get people's reticence, I originally learned about them dabbing on a retard who mounted a simple plumbing fitting sticking out of their oil pan, but they aren't just a bog standard plumbing fitting hanging down 2-3 inches, they are specially made to be compact, easy to utilize, and impossible to fail. I've installed a handful and none of them have concerned me even a little.
 
Last edited:
The motor is sounding tired and the whole truck could use an overhaul. I am debating between doing a diesel swap (which would include the transmission) or just buying a crate motor and fixing up the current drivetrain. If I keep the current drivetrain, should I change out the rear end and if so what should I replace it with.
Just make it a hybrid diesel electric. Well, if Edison actually ever ships theirs.
 
Any Chevy truck made before 1990s is god tier. I’ve got a 1969 C-20 for my farm truck. It’s got a 350 small block with a SM465 transmission and an HO52 rear end. With a 4.56:1 rear end and 6.55:1 in first gear I can pull a 2 horse trailer with 2 draft horses in it no problem. Down side is no over drive and the reared only has races bearings and seals available. It’s got 200,000+ miles (speedometer is only 5 digits) on the original power train.

It the epitome of a farm truck. It’s three different colors (black primer, white primer, original maroon) and has no A/C, no power steering, no radio, drum brakes on around. But it’s got the anti sway bar option, the reinforced rear suspension and a factory renforced bumper entirely made of 1/4”steel.

The motor is sounding tired and the whole truck could use an overhaul. I am debating between doing a diesel swap (which would include the transmission) or just buying a crate motor and fixing up the current drivetrain. If I keep the current drivetrain, should I change out the rear end and if so what should I replace it with.
Be real though, you're pitching this to people like @Null who are pigshit retards regarding mechanical matters- Yeah old only electronic thing is the ignition system is kinda bomb proof territory but I cannot see someone like Null leaning over a fender in Appalachia adjusting mixture screws for altitude. Or god forbid they hear electronic ignition and insist on having fucking breaker points.
 
What would you recommend to use for diagnosing OBD1 vehicles? About everything sold now seems to be for OBD2 and realistically only vehicles from the last 10 years.
That's a tricky one because essentially you need a old snap on mt2500 or Modus scanner with every single adapter, dongle and memory card. An older Verus would also work but those are even more expensive.

modus.jpgmt2500.jpg
These still go for $500-$1000.

One thing to remember is that on the 1985-1991ish OBD1 systems, you typically only get 15 or less data pids. But on the '93 -'95 years, there is quite a bit of live data available. So if you're looking to diag pre-1991 stuff, it probably isn't worth it. But if you want to diag '92 - '95, then it's worth it.


Which brands were you looking to diag? I do know of some cheaper alternatives if you looking to just use it on one or two brands.
 
I’ve always wanted a Jeep Wrangler for fun but I’ve heard mixed things on reliability
My stepdad bought a straight shift Cherokee in 1999? It was an '88. that bitch lasted until he died in '16. No heat or air, that disgusting grain sand finish you could rub off with a finger, manual window cranks, wide open back, two door. If i had the chance i would buy. That thing went through hell and back. I imagine its still running somewhere, like the buick aunt ruth left when she died.
 
Last edited:
>damn AC stopped working
>can't figure out how to fill it with the right refrigerant
>better take it to the shop
>guy fixes on the cheap for my arm, leg, huskydoodle mix and a bite of my liver
>its a small bite more of a nibble
>actually its the compressor
>$19234759286 dollars to repair it
>frick
>im fricked
>shoulda moved to canadia eh
Car mechanics aren’t typically good at working on car AC units either. Unfortunately you need a bunch of expensive equipment to do it properly.
 
If you are looking for a reliable basically luxury sedan the late 90s early 00's Buick LeSabre is on my short list. You can get them for like $2,000-$6,000 and they will hit 400,000 miles if you take care of them and maybe more. They are super comfortable too. I know I sure do miss mine.
 
@Bad as Can and @BatterHomes&Gardens as well as anyone else, I've got an 03 Honda Odyssey where the electric locking system for one door has shit the bed. Wouldn't you know it, it's the bay door I use the most. Any tips on where to start looking for the fault? I haven't ripped the sucker open yet because I don't want to pull the door off to look inside of it (and make the vehicle unusable, waiting to be reassembled at minimum) without a lead.
 
I have an 00's 2nd Generation Toyota Yaris sitting at 306k now with no major work done on it other than an alternator replacement and rust repair. When it dies, I will buy another one. I do transmission fluid every 100k (even though it supposedly a sealed unit), oil at 10k with synthetic, and other basic maintenance. The engine is tiny, allowing you to get your hands and body everywhere to perform work. I don't need to put the car on ramps to do oil, just 2 2x4s to give myself some extra space.

If you own a Toyota that has an OBDII port and a laptop, you can get OEM diagnostic tools for $30. Pick up a "Mini VCI J2534 OBD" cable and then get a pirated version of Techstream on rutracker.org. It's 1000% better than your regular elm327 OBDII bluetooth devices. You can run self diagnostic checks, key programming, ECU flashing (don't do this), TPMS reprogramming, pull up body/SRS/AC/EVAP error codes that only top of the line scanners can touch in functionality.

If you have a non-Toyota I'd recommend searching "your car manufacure + diagnostic software". Honda you can do a similar thing with HDS and i-HDS. Dodge requires expensive cables and modules. mhhauto.com is a great forum to see what is available for your cars, though tthey require a $30 signup fee to download anything so use it as a last resort to get software.
 
If you have a non-Toyota I'd recommend searching "your car manufacure + diagnostic software". Honda you can do a similar thing with HDS and i-HDS. Dodge requires expensive cables and modules. mhhauto.com is a great forum to see what is available for your cars, though tthey require a $30 signup fee to download anything so use it as a last resort to get software.
If you're mad enough to get a BMW, the magic words are "K+DCAN cable" (or "ENET cable" for the 2010s ones, though no personal experience there) and "BMW Standard Tools" for the whole kit and caboodle that includes the fabled INPA and Tool32 that can do anything but are programmed by insane Germanic aliens. ISTA+ is a much newer design and a bit more annoying to set up, but it's designed to hold the hand of stealership retards and the damn thing has an autodiagnostics function that uses stored codes to calculate a fairly comprehensive battery of automatic tests to solve everything for you AND a built-in factory service manual on top.

Only get the files corresponding to the cars you intend to service though, the full pack of daten files and manual data is something like 450 gigabytes in size.
 
Last edited:
I just got a car on trade for one of my bikes. The bike was sitting and not worth much. Car is a 2004 Malibu maxx LS. If you want a stupid reliable V6 that gets better MPG than anything else at the time including 4 bangers. The Malibu's and impala's used the gm3500 and then updated with the gm3900. With were both the best V6 engine Chevy has ever made. This line ran from 2004-2009 and has modern features like remote start and heated seats. But stock radio is trash.
 
The trouble is having a gm transmission though... start saving for a rebuild or replacement.
 
I managed to buy a ‘94 S10 today for $2500 with 250k miles on it. It’s pretty nice, but there’s something wrong with the turn signal on it. I replaced the flash relay on it and now the lights for the turn signal come on, but they’re not blinking. It’s funny to me because the hazards will blink and it turns out that they’re on two separate systems.
 
I managed to buy a ‘94 S10 today for $2500 with 250k miles on it. It’s pretty nice, but there’s something wrong with the turn signal on it. I replaced the flash relay on it and now the lights for the turn signal come on, but they’re not blinking. It’s funny to me because the hazards will blink and it turns out that they’re on two separate systems.
Did someone replace them with LEDs? They may not have enough draw for the flasher to flash, assuming it's an old-school mechanical flasher.
 
They’re all traditional lights, but knowing that about LEDs is something to consider if I need to replace them.
 
Back
Top Bottom