Vehicle Maintenace General

Weird thing happened today. Parked, went to shut off the car but the dash, fans, and everything stayed on like the car was running but the engine was off, hit the button again and the engine came on but then I had a check engine light and it kept beeping at me for having the keys in the ignition as if the car was off. Third time it shut off normal and came back on fine without issue. Wondering if this is some software glitch or what.
The engine off/power on sounds like accessory mode. You can see if that's what it was by getting in the car, put the key in, and press the start/stop button without having your foot on the brake (might need to hit it twice). If it's exactly the same as what happened before then the start/stop button might've sent a double signal when you turned it off, kinda like an old faulty mouse double-clicking.
 
The engine off/power on sounds like accessory mode. You can see if that's what it was by getting in the car, put the key in, and press the start/stop button without having your foot on the brake (might need to hit it twice). If it's exactly the same as what happened before then the start/stop button might've sent a double signal when you turned it off, kinda like an old faulty mouse double-clicking.
Well in accessory mode in this car it changes the dash to black and white and stops displaying speed, rpm, and other things also the fan won't run in accessory and the running lights were on still like it thought the car was still running. Didn't happen again on the way back just thought it was weird and I've had other little odd electrical things that have sorted themselves in the past.
 
Well in accessory mode in this car it changes the dash to black and white and stops displaying speed, rpm, and other things also the fan won't run in accessory and the running lights were on still like it thought the car was still running. Didn't happen again on the way back just thought it was weird and I've had other little odd electrical things that have sorted themselves in the past.
Weird, most cars I've worked on had fans come on in accessory mode too. If your car really did keep all electronics on as if the engine is supposed to be on there should be all sorts of codes in history if you have a scanner.
 
Weird, most cars I've worked on had fans come on in accessory mode too. If your car really did keep all electronics on as if the engine is supposed to be on there should be all sorts of codes in history if you have a scanner.
I don't know why I didn't think to just scan it. Ya, ECM is complaining about some fuel sensor now which is new. Guess I got something to work on this weekend if it does come back, but I doubt a fuel sensor caused that.
 
I don't know why I didn't think to just scan it. Ya, ECM is complaining about some fuel sensor now which is new. Guess I got something to work on this weekend if it does come back, but I doubt a fuel sensor caused that.
At least one post on the Internet for one model of car says it has both "Accessory Mode" and "On but not running."
"You press the start button twice without pressing the brake. The first press enables the audio and infotaintment and the second will power everything without the engine started."

In the olden days when cars had keys and dinosaurs roamed the earth we had "Off, Accessory, On, Start" so you could turn on the car without starting it.
 
It could be an electrical/computer problem, but that does sound like a "sensor issue" in a modern car. I had a parking sensor wiring harness get caked in mud, and it caused a CEL and codes for everything from MAF sensor fail to the ECU itself. That was a real pain in the ass to find.
 
Maybe wrong thread - does anyone have any recs for a small clear toolbox that can sit in the rear passenger footwell?

I’m talking faggy-small, too. Sub-compact 2-door. Doesn’t need to fit flush or anything, but I’m looking to utilize that space and something within reach that holds the bare essentials would be handy. I’ve done some lazy research and found nothing but if a service exists that does make-to-order, that’s good too.
 
Maybe wrong thread - does anyone have any recs for a small clear toolbox that can sit in the rear passenger footwell?

I’m talking faggy-small, too. Sub-compact 2-door. Doesn’t need to fit flush or anything, but I’m looking to utilize that space and something within reach that holds the bare essentials would be handy. I’ve done some lazy research and found nothing but if a service exists that does make-to-order, that’s good too.
Fullsized Milwaukee Packout boxes are probably too large, though I fit them in my 4 door sedan, they make a 1/2 size with a clear lid that would easily fit in the floorboard. I would also recommend a Tekton socket set for keeping in the car, though they aren't "clear". Not for sure why you would want anything clear as it just advertises the contents to the world upon looking in the car. I love my 3/8" kit, and have had a great experience with their warranty. The only thing to be weary of is a 3/8" breaker bar, I replaced mine with a 1/2" after it shearing off when loosening lug nuts and just throwing my 1/2" M12 impact in the car with my impact sockets. If you get the 3/8, just buy a Klein 11-iin-1 Screwdriver and toss it in a seat pocket or the glove box to complete the set. I highly doubt you'll be fucking with allen keys on the side of the road.
 
Maybe wrong thread - does anyone have any recs for a small clear toolbox that can sit in the rear passenger footwell?

I’m talking faggy-small, too. Sub-compact 2-door. Doesn’t need to fit flush or anything, but I’m looking to utilize that space and something within reach that holds the bare essentials would be handy. I’ve done some lazy research and found nothing but if a service exists that does make-to-order, that’s good too.
Does it have to be a toolbox? If it needs to be clear (security checkpoints I'm guessing for those wondering) just get a small bin, there's near infinite variations of those to find the one that works perfect for you.
 
Is it ok to put 10w-20 in my car that wants 5w-30? It's a 2007 Dodge stratus with 170,000 miles.
if you absolutely have no other choice, yeah.

For oil changes adn stuff, I cannot recommend wix filters enough, really worth the money, and for the oil, https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/products/triple-protection-motor-oil/rotella-triple-protection.html It has a good bit of zinc, which is much needed for a lot of engines. It's like 15 bucks for a gallon, and it outperforms stuff that cost 2-3x as much.
 
if you absolutely have no other choice, yeah.

For oil changes adn stuff, I cannot recommend wix filters enough, really worth the money, and for the oil, https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/products/triple-protection-motor-oil/rotella-triple-protection.html It has a good bit of zinc, which is much needed for a lot of engines. It's like 15 bucks for a gallon, and it outperforms stuff that cost 2-3x as much.
If they still make the OEM filter get it. Basically all aftermarket filters are made by a few company's and are rebadged for diffrent stores. And most of the time the OEM is only a little more expensive and far better in quality. Sometimes the aftermarket filters will be smaller or not include things that the OEM has. Just get OEM if it is available.
 
A question for anyone who might know. My car is burning oil. It had a clear PCV leak so I changed the valve cover and gasket. It's still burning oil but not as bad. I can't be fucked doing any more work on it so I'm gonna take it to a shop to get it figured out. What would be a reasonable price to get some of the more common causes fixed? I just wanna be sure I'm not getting fucked over. It's the abomination that is the 1.4L turbo ecotech.
 
A question for anyone who might know. My car is burning oil. It had a clear PCV leak so I changed the valve cover and gasket. It's still burning oil but not as bad. I can't be fucked doing any more work on it so I'm gonna take it to a shop to get it figured out. What would be a reasonable price to get some of the more common causes fixed? I just wanna be sure I'm not getting fucked over. It's the abomination that is the 1.4L turbo ecotech.
I think getting fucked is to be expected for anything at a shop. I know someone who recently got charged $600 just for 4 spark plugs and 1 coil, and that wasn't even at the stealership. You may be looking at over a grand especially if they have to diag it first.
 
I think getting fucked is to be expected for anything at a shop. I know someone who recently got charged $600 just for 4 spark plugs and 1 coil, and that wasn't even at the stealership. You may be looking at over a grand especially if they have to diag it first.
A family member of mine got some work done at a local place and they charged her only 250 for parts and labor and it took the guy 7 hours to do it. The part was like 150 bucks for OEM. So I assume this guy isn't fucking over people other than himself I guess. So what do you think the price would be if I'm not getting fucked?
 
A family member of mine got some work done at a local place and they charged her only 250 for parts and labor and it took the guy 7 hours to do it. The part was like 150 bucks for OEM. So I assume this guy isn't fucking over people other than himself I guess. So what do you think the price would be if I'm not getting fucked?
If he really only charges $14/hr then it'd probably be like $500 worst-case-scenario if you need new piston rings or something. Might want to ask him up front what he charges per hour tho cuz he might've given her some discount or busted something and that 7 hours was to make it right. I have a hard time believing any mechanic can charge those prices and still afford to eat lol
 
If he really only charges $14/hr then it'd probably be like $500 worst-case-scenario if you need new piston rings or something. Might want to ask him up front what he charges per hour tho cuz he might've given her some discount or busted something and that 7 hours was to make it right. I have a hard time believing any mechanic can charge those prices and still afford to eat lol
If I remember right he quoted her 250 and it took way longer than expected but he just charged what he quoted. Still he only quoted 250 for changing out a starter which is pretty low.
 
If I remember right he quoted her 250 and it took way longer than expected but he just charged what he quoted. Still he only quoted 250 for changing out a starter which is pretty low.
Ah that makes more sense. He probably thought it'd be a couple hours tops cuz it used to be that easy. I used to have a '79 F150 where you could reach through the engine bay to replace the starter. I bet he was fuming the whole second half of the repair lol
 
Chevy Ecotechs are famous for oil issues. Could be the oil cooler (the thing your paper oil filter lives inside), your head gasket, even your turbo (if equipped). Have you checked the coolant? Because they also like to blow water pumps and leak oil into the coolant, and if you don't catch that yesterday then you could be in for a new engine. This is not likely to be a cheap fix, but almost anything is better than a new motor.
 
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