Don't get Tamiya Extra Thin. After your first container or two (for the brush on applicator), buy their Airbrush Cleaner at 1/10th the price. The MSDS confirms it's the exact same chemical makeup.
A good point; I've certainly done that myself. That said, the first bottle is a good buy, precisely because of the applicator.
Wow, standards have deteriorated. The last time I ordered product from the People's Republic, it all came in looking really great. Admittedly that was several years ago, so I'd definitely go the 3D route nowadays if that's an indicator of how things are.Apologies for double posting but the thread is slow and this is somewhat interesting.
I ran into my first bootleg GW product today. I’ve seen recasts and whatnot over the years, but this was different.
I couldn’t get a vortex beast from GW (sold out in USA, UK site won’t ship to the USA) so I tried hunting one down on the web.
Found a shop that looked semi ok (had I viewed the home page I’d have been wary). Then I get the bad news - Shipped from China
It arrives in just bags, no box or instructions. The plastic is light and has a ton of flashing, and there are thin spots. Worst part? Won’t work with plastic weld. So if I wanted to put this promised bootleg together I’d have to glue it up old school.
Hard pass. Taking the heads and other cool bits for kitbashing and trashing the rest.
But yeah, take a look at this shit. Looks like a poorly scanned copy of the sprue too.
At least I ordered magnets, so that is cool.
Russian ones are usually rather close to actual GW models, well depends which shops you buy from.
I use a Japanese hobby glue, works great except not on this crap. I was just going to print one personally, but I figured I would give the official model a shot since the rest of my models are all authentic. But now I'm just going to print one because there is no way in hell I'm going to put this piece of shit on the table, I can put a one-to-one copy out there easily. What was really interesting is the feel of the plastic, I wish I could explain it, some parts of it are extremely hard and some of it are almost a gel. Oh well, such is life. First time PayPal has sided with a bootlegger, too.
So question, did it try to be like Dawn of War game or the more overlooked Mark of Chaos? Frankly, I think AOS worked more in the Total War realm, since you always would have large armies clashing on the battlefields.
Depth to Black Power Armor? That's easy. Vallejo German Grey then slap Nuln Oil over it.
The problem is that my crippling autism would not abide even very dark greys. It was black or bust... which makes adding depth tricky to say the least
Correct, if you're doing pure #000000 you literally can't do shadows. Your options then are to bring out the depth in other ways, such as battle damage. Paint it pure black (Vallejo Black is your go to, it's magic) then drybrush the darkest not-black you feel comfortable, then edge-drybrush something a liiiitle bit lighter then a very brief edge-drybrush of a dark silver.
I haven't played it, but I've heard it's a stripped-down version of DOW 2, which was already pretty damned stripped-down. It's really pretty though, especially the Tzeentch stuff.
Were you using the Citadel glue like a regular super glue? It's a plastic cement that works by melting styrene plastics together so of course they won't work on resin which requires super glue anyway. I also second Tamiya, shame it costs double the sticker price on Amazon.
There's no fucking way that's real.
