Warhammer 40k

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So with -1 damage abilities becoming more of a thing how are you guys planning on dealing with it? Necrons are kinda screwed since a lot of the multi damage weapons are d3 or d6 instead of a fixed damage. Yes they are multi shot weapons but the lack of reliable damage output is going to be a big problem for the army as a whole imo. Triarch Praetorians and Wraiths seem to be the best way of combating it right now along with a Nightbringer.
 
Work finally beginning for my Armies on Parade entry. Wyldwood are basecoated grey and are being dry brushed with white scar ready for contrast paints. I also have a couple terminators and a myphetic blight hauler to build.
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Later on down the line I’m going to be adding in a Rhino, Daemon Prince and plaguebearers. Still stuck on centre piece ideas though.
 
Woo, got my Shadow Throne Custodes box from Poland.

Hm. Not a huge fan of the sister's heads. Wonder if there's a good helmet STL I can use instead.
 
I know I already got a marine army but I have an air brush now and have a need for White Scars in the future. Need to get through my current 40k projects of Death Guard and harlequins.

Harlequin leaks look spicy I was worried about getting rolled into CWE but I’m glad I can still run full clowns.
 
CryptoHermit said:
Does anyone write short stories about their armies in 40k? I've been thinking about an idea for an Eldar who's an outcast with the title of "The Heretic" except he's not corrupted by chaos. He's more against the norm of Eldar society. He's a former Warlock from the Lyanden craftworld (I chose this one because the whole elf necromancer aesthetic from them using wraithguard so oftne really appealed to me.) who wanders the galaxy searching for whatever interests him and to overall help the Eldar via whatever tech, lore, artefacts from any other xenos or human civ, it's all free game to him ( to the horror of other Eldar ofc). I guess you could equate him as the Eldar equivalent of a Radical Inquisitor or Magos.

I sometimes run Dark Heresy games with a group so I found getting people to try a little short story about their characters before we play to get them much more invested in the game beforehand.
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I have a sort of mini campaign written out for a couple armies/Kill Teams I have warning lots of autism

Death Guard 6th Plague Company "The Ferrymen" - Glooming Lords

I have been repainting to a Warband called the Glooming Lords there is not much lore for them only that they love using Blightlord Terminator formations.. I kinda added they are lead by a plague surgeon who wants to reshape the world to perfection. That being perfection in the eyes of nurgle mostly by doing whatever experiments he can come up with. Uses the blightlord terminators formations, and plague marines in Terrax Assault Drills to destroy opposition and reaps the rewards of prisoners' Often get into slave arguments with Dark Eldar however the plague surgeon wants to aspire to be nurgle thinking every captured eldar is his own Isha of sorts so more the merrier if dark eldar are involved. The current campaign is they unleashed a plague zombie plague on a planet as a test run for a new plague zombie strain making the streets run rampant with the undead and is their new testing ground. With what ever surviving populace they find become lab rats as the city turns into a laboratory.

Raptors 8th Company

The Raptors were requested by the Inquisition to assist local remaining forces and to find the planets former governor as he holds vital information regarding the entire integrity of the sector due to working with the Glooming Lords. His greed was taken advantage of as he took whatever riches the Death Guard offered him to store gas containers throughout planets in the sector. The first planet was a test many other planets in the sector have gas containers set to blow in hidden areas only he knows where. The 8th Company were picked due the speed their speeders and bikes offered against the constant danger of plague zombie hordes on top of that fact they also adhere to a chain of command unlike a certain other bike focused chapter that is nearby. The Raptors now have taken control of whatever PDF forces remain and are in a race agasint the clock to look for the governor.

Blood Axe Kommandos

The governor knowing the inquisition, Astartes, and a pissed off planet wanted his head decided to try a rumor that spread among his social circles. Greenskins that not only spoke low gothic but actually worked for human’s willingly and for a price. Offering a fully stocked armory located on a nearby moon to a band of Bloodaxe Kommandos to get him off world before any humans or Astartes can find him.


Still working on adding in the harlequins here but this is what I got so far. Wanted a Escape from New York meets Dead Rising kind of feeling.
 
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The new avatar of Khaine better come posed standing ontop of a pile of primaris eradicators, or, Marneus Calgar with his legs spread open.
 
agility_ said:
The new avatar of Khaine better come posed standing ontop of a pile of primaris eradicators, or, Marneus Calgar with his legs spread open.
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To stay in canon for the Avatar of Khaine, it needs to be buried under said pile of primaris eradicators.

Lore wise Av of Khaine is great... At being the skillcheck that everyone passes.
 
So… I finally bit the bullet and bought that starter box that came with some marines and necrons and have some general questions on painting. Things like brands of paint, how to thin them out so they don’t look like the model is covered in paste, which primers are good, what brands and types of brushes are good, and how much “collateral damage” do airbrushes usually cause? I don’t have anywhere at my house where I can really set up a workshop, so if it’s at all bad I wouldn’t really have any other choice than brushing anything besides primers.
 
Takayuki Yagami said:
So… I finally bit the bullet and bought that starter box that came with some marines and necrons and have some general questions on painting. Things like brands of paint, how to thin them out so they don’t look like the model is covered in paste, which primers are good, what brands and types of brushes are good, and how much “collateral damage” do airbrushes usually cause? I don’t have anywhere at my house where I can really set up a workshop, so if it’s at all bad I wouldn’t really have any other choice than brushing anything besides primers.
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It truly depends on your skills and environment.

You can either buy generic paint stuff but then it'll require some experimentation for dosages of water to paint, or you could buy specific products made for the hobby, but then you pay extra. Do not buy citadel stuff as it's horrendously overpriced.

You can go to any arts & crafts store and buy cheap paintbrushes. It's perfectly fine and you won't hate yourself for ruining a 25$ brush, compared to ruining a 5$ brush.

For airbrush, you will need either a container (a vented airbrush box, or a cardboard box) to contain the spread, or have a large surface area and airbrush in that direction. It also comes with having to buy an air compressor and a gas mask (as paint particules will fly in the air for a bit as you're vaporising it on the mini, and breathing them is no good.

Watch some tutorials online and don't be afraid to have some low quality painted minis. My group will always appreciate a painted mini over a stripped mini, regardless of the quality.
 
Takayuki Yagami said:
So… I finally bit the bullet and bought that starter box that came with some marines and necrons and have some general questions on painting. Things like brands of paint, how to thin them out so they don’t look like the model is covered in paste, which primers are good, what brands and types of brushes are good, and how much “collateral damage” do airbrushes usually cause? I don’t have anywhere at my house where I can really set up a workshop, so if it’s at all bad I wouldn’t really have any other choice than brushing anything besides primers.
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I don't do Warhammer stuff but do have some painting tips:

1. Skip the craft store acrylic. Ya know, the big bottles you can get for $2-3. Those are meant for normal painting, their pigment isn't ground as fine and their pigment density is simply too low to easily use for minis. I've tried Vallejo and Tamiya acrylics and they've both been fine to brush-paint with, takes like 2-3 layers to get a nice cover. Yes it's significantly more expensive than craft store paint you can get at Wal-mart, but you'll save yourself a lot of trouble.
2. Acrylics can be easily thinned with water. You can also get a bottle of dedicated acrylic thinner. If you're really desperate you can look up a recipe and mix your own. If you're painting with Tamiya paints, you can also use lacquer thinner, because their formula allows for it. How much you thin the paint is gonna depend on the paint you get, and going through some trial and error to find the best viscosity for you.
3. For airbrushing, you'll want to do it in a ventilated space, or have a fan dumping the fumes out a window. I built a small airbrushing station out of a plastic tub that uses a bathroom fan (~$10-15 at a hardware store) to ventilate. Honestly I dunno if you even need an airbrush for minis, 99% of the time I see people hand-painting everything aside from the primer and topcoat (both of which can easily be found in rattlecans).
4. If you're airbrushing or spray painting indoors, get a fucking mask. I have an N95 (I think) painter's mask with replaceable filters that's comfortable enough to wear for a few hours and works well enough. This is especially if you're using spray bottles for primers and clear coats. Or spray bottles for anything really. Those things are not precise at all and turn your room into a gas chamber even WITH ventilation, so you'll want to be protected.
 
Takayuki Yagami said:
So… I finally bit the bullet and bought that starter box that came with some marines and necrons and have some general questions on painting. Things like brands of paint, how to thin them out so they don’t look like the model is covered in paste, which primers are good, what brands and types of brushes are good, and how much “collateral damage” do airbrushes usually cause? I don’t have anywhere at my house where I can really set up a workshop, so if it’s at all bad I wouldn’t really have any other choice than brushing anything besides primers.
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from the man himself:

as @Kendrick said, besides the paint there's no need to buy SPECIALIST TWELVE PIECE BRUSH SET from BRAND, it's all just either synthetic or natural hair to put paint on stuff - same for other tools (fuck $10 miniholders, block of wood and double-sided tape works exactly the same).

as for airbrushing, that's usually advanced level, due to handling, cost and other factors involved (nice to have tho but nothing you'd really need as a beginner). without it you can prime either by can (not a fan personally) or painting it on oldschool, which while talking longer can also be done on a much smaller space.

afterwards the new hotness seems to be army painter speedpaints (their version of contrast paints), basically a quick and easy way to put color onto your minis so they're not grey anymore. once that's done you can go all in with fancy stuff to make the minis look nicer while it may sound like a shill post, I am looking forward to get my hands on those myself, for the fucking price alone.

these days there are also dozens of different videos around to show you exactly how everything works etc., and while stuff like miniac can be grating sometimes, there's still valuable info in there. I also like to use them to find new shades, keeps me from buying redundant colors you never really know how they'll look in the end (protip: vallejo for metallics, and their shifters look great on necrons especially).

 
Just don't be that guy that has to paint everything with citadel paints, citadel brushes, citadel miniature holder, citadel paint stirrer, citadel handkerchiefs, citadel pacifier, etc....
 
agility_ said:
Just don't be that guy that has to paint everything with citadel paints, citadel brushes, citadel miniature holder, citadel paint stirrer, citadel handkerchiefs, citadel pacifier, etc....
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I wasn’t intending on it. My thinking was going with Vallejo for most of the base shit, Citadel for some of the weirder stuff and/or the stuff that might not see use in huge volumes like some of the greens for necrons or gold highlights, possibly citadel for the primers, and whatever else people thought was cheap and reliable. Also how helpful are wet palettes, if you or anyone here has used them?
 
That being said, Vallejo do make some of the best metal acrylics.

If you are going to use a wet palette, properly, then you don't need to collect 599+ hue variations with fanciful names ala hobby dropper bottles or citadel pots. Why? it enables you to seamlessly blend and mix different shades and pigments from where to draw with your brush and onto your models.
Don't have "ushabti bone"? no "wraithbone"? get a brown, an opaque yellow and a really opaque white and watch as you create your very own gamut of shades. Best of all you can store them and use them later (because being wet, the binder won't polymerize or dry instantly, as it would normally)

Speaking of opaque white: do not waste money on corax white or any other dropper hobby white and get a big fat tube of either Golden titanium white flat white or similar art grade white; they are so opaque and thick they will desaturate all of your acrylics and you'll be saving dozens of bucks because a tube will last your whole life.
 
Takayuki Yagami said:
I wasn’t intending on it. My thinking was going with Vallejo for most of the base shit, Citadel for some of the weirder stuff and/or the stuff that might not see use in huge volumes like some of the greens for necrons or gold highlights, possibly citadel for the primers, and whatever else people thought was cheap and reliable. Also how helpful are wet palettes, if you or anyone here has used them?
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you still want both, some paints like inks and metallics can mess up your wet palette. wet palettes can be a help depending how you paint, but most of the time I can go by with a normal one.
one thing regarding primers in cans, some recommend the craft stuff, and while it is basically the same what's different is the shape of the nozzle. it's designed to cover a bigger area and not a small spot like minis. something to keep in mind that while it's cheaper you gonna blast more of besides the mini (unless you switch it or something).

as for gold:
 
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