Mega Rad Gun Thread

How does the Magpul polymer compare to the PRO sights?

I am debating to go with either the polymer rear, or the PRO rear with the elevation wheel for a 20 inch AR.
 
How does the Magpul polymer compare to the PRO sights?
they are lighter and made of polymer and are cheap enough yet well made enough to be good back up sights when your optic goes down. i recommend something like the Pro, Troy, DD fixed, or ARMS if you want sights that are much more durable/rugged enough for more frequent use and knocking about. or just get the normal detachable carry handle A2 target sights.
 
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That Archangel stock just makes me think of butchered Mosins. It's not bad on a 10/22 though, maybe a little bit bulky. The Magpul stock for 10/22 isn't bad, good for bumming around the woods, doesn't snag on anything.
I've seen a 10/22 mocked up as a M1 carbine at my local store, looked like this. I had to look at it for a minute lol. It is pretty kino but I love the aesthetic of the carbine.

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Whats a good 1-8 LPVO? I'm planning on using it with a thermal clip on if that makes a difference. Thanks.
the SIG Tango MSR is pretty good for the money, the Strike Eagle 1-8 is okay too although on above average recoil it might not be the best option. Bushnell has a 1-8 "AR Optic" that is very good for the money asked but has some obvious cost reductions (that make sense) to reach a good price point. some of the Athlon Optics that were circulating the usually suspects are "okay" for a varminting or knock around deer rifle but i'm not sure i would trust one to take a tumble on a rocky slope intact. i usually go with USO/S&B/Trijicon but depending on what you want out of it, they can be very far "too much optic for too much budget".

Eotech Vudu is excellent but very expensive, the Swampfox Arrowhead is a rebrand and is okay - has bad edge distortion at high magnification like the Athlon, Leupold has the CQBSS which falls between the Trijicon and Eotech - excellent quality, expensive, and for the Mk 8 specifically is kind of old tech.

you might want to really outline your requirements and see if the thermal optic you want to use has a specific height over bore or mount or something to help narrow things down as well as the environment you're shooting in, the ammo you are using and if you need specific features like low light lens coatings, 1/2 or 1/4 turret adjustments, a particular reticle or eye relief for the ocular lens, options for a specific mount, et c. there's a lot of things out there.

if in doubt and you're an "average shooter" then it's hard to go wrong with the Strike Eagle or Primary Arms or SIG MSR.
 
they are lighter and made of polymer and are cheap enough yet well made enough to be good back up sights when your optic goes down. i recommend something like the Pro, Troy, DD fixed, or ARMS if you want sights that are much more durable/rugged enough for more frequent use and knocking about. or just get the normal detachable carry handle A2 target sights.

I do wonder, is elevation important for a rear sight as most common buis are usually windage adustable only.

Whereas the PRO LR sight allows for both compared to the MBUS or regular PRO or even the Troy sights or DD or Midwest.
 
My 10/22 got a bx trigger, an aftermarket threaded bull barrel an archangel stock and Harris style bi-pod. Even the GF loves it and she normally hates shooting. My only complaint are mags are a bitch to remove with this stock for some reason dunno why.


View attachment 3657277
Yeah, I have the same problem. I'll probably pay my sister to file down the inside of the magwell a bit.

Neat looking stock otherwise. I'll probably take it squirrel hunting in a week or two.
 
is elevation important for a rear sight
the purpose of rear sight elevation in a target sight is to have finer adjustment of sight alignment at a given distance in temporary conditions where adjusting the front sight for elevation was impossible (short of filing something or parts swapping) or inconvenient (where your zero or estimated engagement range will not change very much after your initial zero procedure). this is especially true if you are normally zeroed at a specific distance but your shooting conditions have changed so you are shooting at a significantly longer or shorter distance and a finer adjustment is needed but not to the point where you want to lose your normal zero and make the fine adjustment permanent. situations like hot or cold weather, strange ammunition, temporary wind gusting, fine adjustment after an initial shot and you only need minor correction to get on target, et c.

that is why fully adjustable sights are called target sights - they were used for fine adjustments to meet target shooting requirements, whereas more traditional sights were often a fixed front sight that was windage regulated but the soldier was left to personalize the zero for themselves (the M1 Rifle for example where you made coarse windage adjustment to the front sight and left it alone, doing all other adjustments to the rear sight) whereas other rifles would have drift regulated windage for the front sight using a tool and the rear sight was fixed to the receiver and only elevation adjustable (Gewehr 98 for example where the front sight was coarsely drifted and the rear sight only had an elevation adjustment).

if you feel you need fine adjustment for competitive reasons, or to account for a more variable shooting environment, then fully adjustable rear target sights and an adjustable front sight is probably the way to go. if you do not need this sort of fine adjustment, then simpler sights might be better/more robust/simpler to use. the simpler sights, on a mass production level, were often simpler/cheaper to manufacture and quite rugged - ideal for a standardized infantry rifle.
 
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Yeah, I have the same problem. I'll probably pay my sister to file down the inside of the magwell a bit.

Neat looking stock otherwise. I'll probably take it squirrel hunting in a week or two.
I would probably look at modifying the magazines instead of the rifle, if only because if you go a bit too far, you're only out the cost of a mag. I know that when I put my 10/22 in that bullpup stock, the instructions recommended filing down the 'bump' on the back of the BX15/25 mags a bit for easier removal.
 
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I would probably look at modifying the magazines instead of the rifle, if only because if you go a bit too far, you're only out the cost of a mag. I know that when I put my 10/22 in that bullpup stock, the instructions recommended filing down the 'bump' on the back of the BX15/25 mags a bit for easier removal.
That makes sense, however I also have another 10-22 all these mags work with just fine. This stock, which I like a lot, is the odd one out.
 
I started getting into customizing my firearms. I blame my AR. Because I'm a fucking nerd here's some custom grips I've been looking at.Samurai-Edge__element74.jpg
One from a game series that used to be good.
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And from a terrible 80s action movie.

Video games don't cause violence. They cause people to commit atrocities against their guns.
 
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I started getting into customizing my firearms. I blame my AR. Because I'm a fucking nerd here's some custom grips I've been looking at.View attachment 3661569
One from a game series that used to be good.
View attachment 3661575
And from a terrible 80s action movie.

Video games don't cause violence. They cause people to commit atrocities against their guns.
* Game series that is still good

It's changed but that's OK, the originals still exist
 
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