Mega Rad Gun Thread

DocAwe said:
Jeebus.
Some folks treat a gun like it's made of glass and paper right up until you actually shoot it.
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I'm a bit particular depending on the model but you can call it babying but the several times I've had to do any work that required having to clamp down my guns I blue tape the shit out of them to prevent scratching and that's from learning the hard way after the chucklehead at my local shop did an install of some sights for me and left the sides noticeably scratched up and this was a piece I bought two months prior suffice to say I was far from pleased and lesson learned I'll just install the shit myself I can get my hands on a sight pusher no problem. TLDR: 3M blue tape is your best friend when it comes to working on your guns.
 
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HumptiDouji said:
They made millions and millions of those things, dude. Even K98ks aren't always the nicest, I don't feel that bad if a Russian capture gets sporterized or otherwise worked over, and there's not exactly a shortage of M48s either.
The sporterizing trend is dead and buried though, so it's not like this even happens in any appreciable numbers anymore.
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The late war production ones are pretty awful and the Soviet captures are already completely FUBAR. Parts from half a dozen guns mixed into one. Now if you got your hands on a rifle that was used by the foreskinless rats back in the day . . . that would be interesting.

Club Sandwich said:
one was Turkish, the other i don't remember. this was years ago and weren't my rifles either. they weren't some special historic rifle or anything, just ones owned by different customers that wanted to use cheap 7.62x54mmR that was being imported by the pallet load and 8mm Mauser was harder to come by.
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That's fair. I shot some 8mm Mauser out of my friend's G33/40 back in the day and he told me that the only people still making it was this company from Serbia called Prvi Partizan. They make a lot of rare old calibers according to him and the quality is excellent. He also handloads his used 8mm Mauser rounds (I believe he said they could be used a few times).
 
Distant Ranger said:
I got offered to buy a m1 carbine receiver (national postal meter) for 200 bucks. All it is is the receiver, barrel, and bayonet lug. Is this worth it ? Barrel is good
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ask for photos of this area and see if it has been repaired in the past with welding marks, or if a hairline crack can be seen with bright light. i'm assuming it's a bare receiver with a random stock set. M1 carbines have turned into mix-masters over the years and building one from parts was both common and simple, however you might want a tool to assemble a bolt if you don't buy a complete bolt, and try to stay away Auto-Ord commercial parts if you can help it other than springs or simple things like a barrel band or something.
 
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Mentlegen, I present to you the finest vintage comment collage, made fresh from the slapfights of that Magunbroke Again Massad Ayoob video.
I call it, "E. L. Ripley wigs out":
RipleyLosesIt.png
 
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Pocket Dragoon said:
Only you can prevent gun abuse!
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while guns are tools and not intended for either kid-gloves or wanton abuse, the 1911 can have brittle extractors that can be prone to snapping when on an empty chamber - it's rare, but it happens, and on military 1911's i've seen (and some commercial ones that are shot a lot) it's a relatively easy fix and generally is on guns with very high round counts. high enough i start looking for cracking in the frame. external extractor 1911's have this issue a lot less.

generally, the brass from a cartridge can act as a limit cushion (brass/aluminum being softer than slide and barrel steel) where peening or brittle failure is far far less likely.

it's like seeing a firing pin snap that's been work hardened. can it happen? sure. has it happened? extremely rare, but it's been a thing known to occur with some designs more than others on high-use guns. will it happen to you? probably not unless there was already an underlying issue.

cheap fix: spare FP and extractor/extractor spring and pin. you're more likely to lose them than break them or damage a barrel/slide/sear with empty slide drops.
 
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Pocket Dragoon said:
Only you can prevent gun abuse!
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Cannot be fucked to listen to Ayoob yap his boomer flaps, but I do know that older automatic pistol designs with internal extractors (ergo, the 1911, and some older Sigs), should be handled certain ways to avoid excess wear. One of those is to not load such pistols from the ejection port.

The cartridge is supposed to come upwards with its groove onto the extractor, which moves very little here, but when you load from the ejection port you're forcing the 1911s extractor to snap over the rim and into the groove, putting a lot of unpleasant flex onto a part which was designed to only flex a tiny bit. Not an issue on 1911s with external extractors such as Smith & Wesson's, nor any Glock, Beretta, CZ75, what have you. This is why we do external extractors on new designs.

Another, which I was told of, but didn't have explained to me, was that you shouldn't slam the slide shut on an empty chamber a bunch on such pistols. Not sure about the logic of it, and it could be fuddlore, but I have heard that one before, and specifically pertaining to 1911s.

Martys_not_smarty said:
There's some logic for not dry firing but it's for shit like 22's cause rimfire and break action hammerless shotguns.
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Those are much more vulnerable, generally, but when you don't have the primer deforming from the hammer or pin, that energy still has to actually go somewhere, it doesn't just disappear. Not a catastrophe with anything half modern, but it's gonna add up if you do it a lot, so using good snapcaps doesn't hurt if you want a lot of dryfire practice.
 
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I really don't have much of opinion on excessive firearm wear. I will not baby anything I would trust my life over, if it cannot handle being used rough it will be repaired and demoted to guarding my safe from the inside out. My background in machine-shop and working with metal tells me I can cut a block of steel with with a butter knife as long as I have 10 years and 10,000 butter knives. In other words everything erodes sooner or later from wear. On the same subject I have been looking for the exact video forever but IIRC Jame Yeager mentioned the life of a .40 is significantly shorter than a 9mm or .45 due to the higher operating pressure. Once again I am still looking for this video but, he said something like half was it? As in a Glock 17 will go theoretically 50,000 rounds and a Glock 22 will only make it to 25,000 before they are too worn to be restored by parts. I haven't seen anyone actually do a definitive study on this, something using repeatable scientific method.
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Troon_Patrol said:
I really don't have much of opinion on excessive firearm wear. I will not baby anything I would trust my life over, if it cannot handle being used rough it will be repaired and demoted to guarding my safe from the inside out. My background in machine-shop and working with metal tells me I can cut a block of steel with with a butter knife as long as I have 10 years and 10,000 butter knives. In other words everything erodes sooner or later from wear. On the same subject I have been looking for the exact video forever but IIRC Jame Yeager mentioned the life of a .40 is significantly shorter than a 9mm or .45 due to the higher operating pressure. Once again I am still looking for this video but, he said something like half was it? As in a Glock 17 will go theoretically 50,000 rounds and a Glock 22 will only make it to 25,000 before they are too worn to be restored by parts. I haven't seen anyone actually do a definitive study on this, something using repeatable scientific method.
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I don't see how it would kill the frame which is the non-recoverable part unless the gun is poorly designed. .40 is pretty rough on the guns though.
 
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