Mega Rad Gun Thread

I would still prefer having something I can tune to the ammo I'm using (which is preferably the cheapest I can find). I inherited this rifle and I'd prefer to have something that doesn't still allow damage to the gun, even if it costs more, than something that does, but is cheaper.
the M1 Rifle is intended to fire 150gr M1 or M2 ball ammunition (and similar) at or under 50,000 CUP (about 60,000 PSI). if your rifle is in good condition with original parts that are not warped or something, then you can shoot just about any commercial ammo on the market that isn't heavier than 165gr at faster than 2850 f/s on a hot day.

the key factors for damage are a weak or too-short action spring (20" length when new is typical, minimum 19" and maximum 20-1/2", with one end tapered, no coils stretched more than 1/8" or compressed more than 1/32"), improper or inadequate lubrication (use a white lithium grease, lubriplate being the actual still manufactured correct grease, and apply as per the M1 field manual), or an op rod that is out of spec (it has a very long straight cylinderical section that must not be bent).

if the rest of the rifle is in good order, you can shoot your cheap ammo as you please.

that being said, the adjustable "plug" (really the gas cylinder lock screw) is outdated in favor of the self-adjusting ported screw that function based on the M60 design, where it allows pressure to build up to enough to work the operating rod before venting the remaining gas via a port that relieves pressure. both of these are the "easy answer" to peace of mind.

edit: oops seems like someone posted some vids already. it's probably been done before.
 
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For the love of Eugene Stoner at least put a 11.5 inch upper on that.

Youll have something that reliably fragments M193 at home defense ranges and accurate out to 300-400 meters. On top of that youll have a quieter firearm that isnt going to destroy your suppressor.
This gun isn't for lasting a long time. It's for keeping me alive the one day I'll need to use it. I can show my scout rifles for days but in my hood, it ain't a bear breaking in. It's a nigger and/or ATF

Candle that burns half as long burns twice as bright
 
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i don't know about all downsides. it's a full-auto flashbanger with the right lower :)

that being said a good can of sufficient length on the end can bring up the velocity to something useful easily enough.
And that's why I rock a can
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This isn't even the niggerish gun I own either
 
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Assuming that it's kept secure and free of moisture, is there any problem putting ammo in long term non-climate-controlled storage? Specifically, how much does temperature matter here? I've tried to do some research and read everything from "it's totally fine" to "it's incredibly stupid".
 
Assuming that it's kept secure and free of moisture, is there any problem putting ammo in long term non-climate-controlled storage? Specifically, how much does temperature matter here? I've tried to do some research and read everything from "it's totally fine" to "it's incredibly stupid".
It really depends on the ammo, in my experience. I've had new brass go green in a week and I still have a backlog of old 40s-50's era 38Special that sat in a moldy ass barn for who knows how long that still goes bang.
Edit: If you're not talking about scientifically hand loaded, exact foot pounds of press autist loaded ammo and referring to "I bought a box of Winchester." the store bought stuff can sit forever. Everyone who grew up in a gun family probably still has a box of grandad's 12 gauge or 30-30 that still fucks as hard as they day it was bought.
 
Assuming that it's kept secure and free of moisture, is there any problem putting ammo in long term non-climate-controlled storage?
the more humid it is, the less tolerant of temperature variation most ammunition is. ammunition that has a wax or paint or lacquer seal to keep moisture out of the primer or cannelure in a cool, dry, dark storage works best. an ammo can with an intact air seal and a pack of desiccant with the ammo in their packaging inside the ammo can, then in a burlap bag to stave off condensation works great for 40-50 years easily in most temperament climates that experience all four seasons. some special care is for arctic (permafrost, tundra, taiga) and swamps or underwater with pressure variations - you typically vacuum-pack the ammo inside the can at that point - but i'm betting these are not your situations.
 
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the more humid it is, the less tolerant of temperature variation most ammunition is. ammunition that has a wax or paint or lacquer seal to keep moisture out of the primer or cannelure in a cool, dry, dark storage works best. an ammo can with an intact air seal and a pack of desiccant with the ammo in their packaging inside the ammo can, then in a burlap bag to stave off condensation works great for 40-50 years easily in most temperament climates that experience all four seasons. some special care is for arctic (permafrost, tundra, taiga) and swamps or underwater with pressure variations - you typically vacuum-pack the ammo inside the can at that point - but i'm betting these are not your situations.
Yeah, that makes sense. It's a little hard to explain my situation without powerleveling, but I'm about to have access to an outdoor closet of sorts. I was thinking about weatherstripping it and throwing in a portable dehumidifier and keeping some ammo there. I don't live anywhere with extreme temperatures.
 
Speaking of 308, help me trick out my stock AR-10. No idea which direction I want to take it to make it weirdly specialized
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You've already got what looks like longish Leupold glass on it, so maybe a bipod? The MDT Oryx is very reasonably priced and sturdier than the Magpul one if you don't wanna drop big bucks. Maybe a buttstock more oriented towards precision shooting and there's always the option of an offset or piggyback red dot. Backup irons are also never a bad idea.
 
And that's why I rock a can
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This isn't even the niggerish gun I own either
This is something I'd expect to see on YouTube shorts being fired at an indoor range by a swarthy gentleman as he puts multiple rounds into the range's ceiling (except for the suppressor because those people can't pass background checks).

ARs chambered in 5.56 should really have barrels no shorter than 10.3" long. Under that, and you've basically got a flashbang garbage rod that beats itself to death due to the amount of gas being pumped back into the upper to make sure the gun cycles reliably. Even 10.3"/10.5" isn't great. The Mk18 was always a compromise. 11.5" is the best shorty 5.56 length, imho. 11.5" has ~40% more dwell time than 10.3", which results in slower internal parts wear and lower likelihood of malfunctions.

A big problem with all the cheap AR "pistols" out there is that they all use utterly gaped gas ports. The CRANE spec gas port size for a 10.3" barrel is .070. I've seen PSA and Aero 10.5" barrels' gas ports pin gauged everywhere from .078 to .086! Those guns will obliterate gas rings and extractor and ejector springs insanely fast. Never mind that these cheapo shorty ARs usually ship with a standard carbine buffer spring and buffer, making them ridiculously harsh recoiling for 5.56.

AR barrels under 10.3" should only ever be chambered in .300 BLK, quite frankly.
 
This is something I'd expect to see on YouTube shorts being fired at an indoor range by a swarthy gentleman as he puts multiple rounds into the range's ceiling (except for the suppressor because those people can't pass background checks).

ARs chambered in 5.56 should really have barrels no shorter than 10.3" long. Under that, and you've basically got a flashbang garbage rod that beats itself to death due to the amount of gas being pumped back into the upper to make sure the gun cycles reliably. Even 10.3"/10.5" isn't great. The Mk18 was always a compromise. 11.5" is the best shorty 5.56 length, imho. 11.5" has ~40% more dwell time than 10.3", which results in slower internal parts wear and lower likelihood of malfunctions.

A big problem with all the cheap AR "pistols" out there is that they all use utterly gaped gas ports. The CRANE spec gas port size for a 10.3" barrel is .070. I've seen PSA and Aero 10.5" barrels' gas ports pin gauged everywhere from .078 to .086! Those guns will obliterate gas rings and extractor and ejector springs insanely fast. Never mind that these cheapo shorty ARs usually ship with a standard carbine buffer spring and buffer, making them ridiculously harsh recoiling for 5.56.

AR barrels under 10.3" should only ever be chambered in .300 BLK, quite frankly.
Hey, if being 50% overgassed works for AKs, then all you need to do is drill a bigger port. Why not go for a 5.5mm gas port? You would probably pull case heads off rounds at the bottom of your magazine, but by Stoner's ghost it'd be reliable.
 
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