Mega Rad Gun Thread

i don't really recognize the hole pattern, they almost look like SLR / L1A1 handguards kinda, but they do appear to be cut down G3 wide handguards with the bipod locking spring that i guess someone cut some slots into.
The holes look misaligned so I'm leaning towards that too, and apparently the wide handguard is sometimes known as "tropical" for whatever reason so this is my understanding of the chop.
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That's a pretty short barrel. Rad.
EDIT: Guesstimated it to be a ~14" barrel, they were certainly ahead of their time.

I'll probably skip the SBR route since I already have a Dissipator on the side, as a bonus it possibly saves me the stress of cutting up even a modern production wide handguard.
 
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The holes look misaligned so I'm leaning towards that too, and apparently the wide handguard is sometimes known as "tropical" for whatever reason so this is my understanding of the chop.
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That's a pretty short barrel. Rad.
EDIT: Guesstimated it to be a ~14" barrel, they were certainly ahead of their time.

I'll probably skip the SBR route since I already have a Dissipator on the side, as a bonus it possibly saves me the stress of cutting up even a modern production wide handguard.
sort of looks closer to this: the plastic is molded around the steel insert for the retaining pin, and the retaining spring for the bipod is present and that's riveted in place.

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I noticed Anderson and PSA get their forging from the same aluminum factory.
Not strictly AR related but a lot of firearms that are made with cast frames/parts are cast by pine tree castings AKA Sturm Ruger & company. they've got this stock image on their sight:
I see a desert eagle frame, M14 action (i want to say they supplied Springfield armory at one point), and the action to what looks like a O/U shotgun. among other things.
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Not strictly AR related but a lot of firearms that are made with cast frames/parts are cast by pine tree castings AKA Sturm Ruger & company. they've got this stock image on their sight:
I see a desert eagle frame, M14 action (i want to say they supplied Springfield armory at one point), and the action to what looks like a O/U shotgun. among other things.
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Ruger makes some of the best steel/aluminum castings in the industry, no joke. they are OEM for a lot more than small arms.
 
Ive used it for torqueing on muzzle devices so I dont see why it wouldnt work for a barrel nut.

a reaction rod doesn't prevent the upper from rotating either soi'm not sure what you're getting at.

The Midwest URR prevents the upper from rotating. All of the other fixtures usually work fine under normal torque values.

I’m not very familiar with the bev block, but it looks like there is only a small part that interfaces with the charging handle path in the upper to prevent the upper from rotating.
 
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Bruh y'all can just thug it out and just use a regular vise lol.
Just pop off your upper and put some cardboard on your vise jaws, and push the upper down so the front pin post is resting on the jaws. Plenty of material to grab onto, no worries about crushing.

Holding the barrel or the receiver doesn't matter if you only hold one, as you're gonna be relying on that lil steel pin digging into the aluminum. No need to buy useless shit. To make one of those bolt things work you'd need to make use of the charging handle slot and have a matching lengthened gas key situation. Issue with that is upper tolerance, so you'd never be able to get it right enough where that's holding the barrel before the pin while still fitting even half the uppers floating around out there. If you're super worried or have a shit upper, put a metal shim next to the pin and bias it whatever direction is good and it'll self center when torqued.
You have to wonder how the ARs without locking lugs are assembled
 
You have to wonder how the ARs without locking lugs are assembled
With a fixture that holds the upper or barrel.

The reason a Midwest URR was being recommended was the poster saying he couldn’t get the barrel nut off with a normal amount of force and was concerned with breaking the upper.

Under normal torque values and proper assembly practices a Midwest URR isn’t necessary and any fixture designed for the task should be fine.
 
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i might be retarded. the MFI rail i got for my MP5 is listed for an MP5K but on the MFI website they're saying i can do whatever. there isn't a real difference, is there? i could have just slapped the rail on the whole time? i haven't opened the packaging up since i've found out how anal HKparts is with returns
 
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The Midwest URR prevents the upper from rotating. All of the other fixtures usually work fine under normal torque values.

I’m not very familiar with the bev block, but it looks like there is only a small part that interfaces with the charging handle path in the upper to prevent the upper from rotating.
the MWI URR (and a few others) have a sail that engages the charging handle journal, yes, this prevents rotation. the BEV block has a similar "nub" that isn't as substantial that also prevents rotation as well as the entire "block" portion that sits vertically in the BCG path. if you want, you can remove the bolt and install the BCG as well as the BEV block and it will not rotate.

i think you are overplaying how much rotatable moment is going on here as well as not understanding that when you engage with the barrel extension, you are transmitting force from the wrench, through the barrel nut, through the upper, which is free to rotate slightly but kept from doing so by a sail or nub as the case may be. the clamping force exerted by the nut is immediately relieved during removal, and when installing, that clamping force is not intended to be significant. 35-80 ft-lb about arm's strength. this is not the shear failure or plastic deformation point of 7075 aluminum, it is well below it.

if you are applying enough torque to go well beyond this, that is a problem of the person using the breaker bar or whatever trying to goon the nut on the upper (which you should not do), and during removal if there is excessive force needed to remove, there are methods that can make it easier such as penetrating oil, heat, cut off wheels, et c. i can dig around for a junk upper and see what exactly it would take to actually break it through ineffective rotation stopping power. i guarantee you it will be far in excess of any human's arm strength.

you do you though, if you sleep easier with using an MWI URR and then i think you're all the better for it vs bubba using a piece of carpet, some cardboard, and a couple whacks on the vise's arm.

i might be retarded. the MFI rail i got for my MP5 is listed for an MP5K but on the MFI website they're saying i can do whatever. there isn't a real difference, is there? i could have just slapped the rail on the whole time? i haven't opened the packaging up since i've found out how anal HKparts is with returns
the optic rail is the same between the MP5K, MP5-PDW, SP89, HK94, SP5, MP5 and it's variations. the few that are different you likely will never see in the wild like the SMG, MLI, or MP5KA1. the mounting point differ between receivers typically, so a G3, HK33, and MP5 might have some difference with the claw mount or low profile mounts, although the "high" NATO claw mount should work on all of them.
 
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the MWI URR (and a few others) have a sail that engages the charging handle journal, yes, this prevents rotation. the BEV block has a similar "nub" that isn't as substantial that also prevents rotation as well as the entire "block" portion that sits vertically in the BCG path. if you want, you can remove the bolt and install the BCG as well as the BEV block and it will not rotate.

i think you are overplaying how much rotatable moment is going on here as well as not understanding that when you engage with the barrel extension, you are transmitting force from the wrench, through the barrel nut, through the upper, which is free to rotate slightly but kept from doing so by a sail or nub as the case may be. the clamping force exerted by the nut is immediately relieved during removal, and when installing, that clamping force is not intended to be significant. 35-80 ft-lb about arm's strength. this is not the shear failure or plastic deformation point of 7075 aluminum, it is well below it.

if you are applying enough torque to go well beyond this, that is a problem of the person using the breaker bar or whatever trying to goon the nut on the upper (which you should not do), and during removal if there is excessive force needed to remove, there are methods that can make it easier such as penetrating oil, heat, cut off wheels, et c. i can dig around for a junk upper and see what exactly it would take to actually break it through ineffective rotation stopping power. i guarantee you it will be far in excess of any human's arm strength.

you do you though, if you sleep easier with using an MWI URR and then i think you're all the better for it vs bubba using a piece of carpet, some cardboard, and a couple whacks on the vise's arm.
I am in agreement that under normal circumstances the MWI URR isn’t necessary. I was recommending it to the poster who said he couldn’t get a barrel nut loose without adding more leverage to a breaker bar. I have seen broken receivers and index pins, but I have not had it happen to me.

I don’t even currently own a MWI URR, but it’s still what I would recommend to people to reduce the chance of breaking something.
 
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Their AR lowers got a unique aesthetic going.
That reminded me of this pic I got off Operatorchan forever ago. I don't remember everything the OP said about it (he was a gunsmith and this wandered into his shop) but IIRC the lower is a cast Ruger lower from the 80s. The handguard is off of an XM148 and I have no clue what the muzzle device came from. Also note the Fiberlite stock and an A1 pistol grip that has been modified to have a hump akin to an A2 grip.
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That reminded me of this pic I got off Operatorchan forever ago. I don't remember everything the OP said about it (he was a gunsmith and this wandered into his shop) but IIRC the lower is a cast Ruger lower from the 80s. The handguard is off of an XM148 and I have no clue what the muzzle device came from. Also note the Fiberlite stock and an A1 pistol grip that has been modified to have a hump akin to an A2 grip.
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Thank God for....

Cheap and effective Magpul accessories and furniture.
 
i might be retarded. the MFI rail i got for my MP5 is listed for an MP5K but on the MFI website they're saying i can do whatever. there isn't a real difference, is there? i could have just slapped the rail on the whole time? i haven't opened the packaging up since i've found out how anal HKparts is with returns
The K vs normal MP5 differences only matter for handguards and stocks/braces. The K and fullsize MP5 patterns use different buttplate geometry. There are a few MP5K clone manufacturers like POF (the Pakistanis) that make a mullet gun, short in the front, full size in the rear.
 
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Usually people go the other way with that.
Based on the parts involved I think it was put together in the 1980s when the A2 was the new hotness and owners were more amenable to its grip over the A1. The A2 had so much interest that Colt's early SP2s were basically just SP1s with A2 furniture and A2 profile barrels, with the same upper and lower as the SP1, until they updated the forgings.
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