Mega Rad Gun Thread

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AStupidMonkey said:
That law sounds retarded tho. It's a shame to have to deface that beast. I bet the extra weight helps a lot with recoil. Not that I envy you the carry weight.
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So the only reason that law exists is because a couple chuckle fucks shot a deer with a 50 cal, punched through it, and killed another hunter. So they banned amy rifle over 15lbs to keep people from using anti material rifles.
 
Club Sandwich said:
the short action Cobb was a lot better than the long action, and i seems like you won out. G3 mags aren't as cheap as they used to be but it beats having to get KAC mags or AICS.
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So the magwell in there is supposedly some kind of "universal" well that uses their proprietary mag and G3 mags. Sadly I don't have proprietary ones to test with.
 
MrShekelstein36 said:
So the only reason that law exists is because a couple chuckle fucks shot a deer with a 50 cal, punched through it, and killed another hunter. So they banned amy rifle over 15lbs to keep people from using anti material rifles.
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You could probably get below 15 if you replace the stock and buffer tube with a carbine tube and M4 waffle stock.
 
MrShekelstein36 said:
So @Club Sandwich I got the Cobb the other day. Holy fuck I was not expecting it to weigh 15.5lbs in its current configuration. Considering the listing said 10lbs. I can't legally hunt with it in Idaho now which is dumb. It also has a proprietary handguard and barrel nut so I can't easily rebarrel it. That said. Reliability has been interesting. It has issues chambering the first round, however once it chambers, it ate everything from tula 308, to Barnes 308 match. As well as WWB 7.62x51 and some Armscor stuff.

Yes that is an AR-10 carry handle on it.
View attachment 6569979
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Try swapping the handgards for polymer. And what others have said, a skeleton stock. Literally ditch everything that you can. Maybe even the optic if it weighs more than the irons. It'll kick harder but it'll be legal.
 
WelperHelper99 said:
Try swapping the handgards for polymer. And what others have said, a skeleton stock. Literally ditch everything that you can. Maybe even the optic if it weighs more than the irons. It'll kick harder but it'll be legal.
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He may have to do that anyways. I skimmed the law (asked google) about it, and one of the qualifiers was you can't have "electronic devices" attached. Which likely includes red dots and LPVOs.
 
AStupidMonkey said:
He may have to do that anyways. I skimmed the law (asked google) about it, and one of the qualifiers was you can't have "electronic devices" attached. Which likely includes red dots and LPVOs.
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It actually doesn't include those. It includes laser rangefinders and optics with those built in (see Burris Eliminator line of scope) as well as thermals.


WelperHelper99 said:
Try swapping the handgards for polymer. And what others have said, a skeleton stock. Literally ditch everything that you can. Maybe even the optic if it weighs more than the irons. It'll kick harder but it'll be legal.
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The barrel nut is proprietary, I tried. So my next project is modifying a nut to work so I can swap the handguards.
 
MrShekelstein36 said:
It actually doesn't include those. It includes laser rangefinders and optics with those built in (see Burris Eliminator line of scope) as well as thermals.



The barrel nut is proprietary, I tried. So my next project is modifying a nut to work so I can swap the handguards.
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Check this handguard out. https://jagcomp.com/product/bertha-handguard-system/
Fits a aero precision BAR barrel nut. https://www.aeroprecisionusa.com/m5e1-handguard-barrel-nut
Which should work if your upper has “DPMS” threads
 
I need one of you guntism kiwis to help me with this, I just picked up an Enfield No 1 Mk VI .45 revolver that has a bulge in the barrel from a squib. I was told not to shoot it, I want to shoot it. Should I send it in somewhere for repair or just send it? I am thinking send it because it doesn't look bad. Here are some photos
barrelinside.PNG sidebarrel.PNGbottomslashside.PNG
If I cant shoot it I won't be too upset, it was a very fair price, Apex has barrels with cylinders for a fair price but for 38spl instead of .45.
 
Akran said:
I need one of you guntism kiwis to help me with this, I just picked up an Enfield No 1 Mk VI .45 revolver that has a bulge in the barrel from a squib. I was told not to shoot it, I want to shoot it. Should I send it in somewhere for repair or just send it? I am thinking send it because it doesn't look bad. Here are some photos
View attachment 6572077 View attachment 6572079View attachment 6572081
If I cant shoot it I won't be too upset, it was a very fair price, Apex has barrels with cylinders for a fair price but for 38spl instead of .45.
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Wall hanger bro.
I have a MK. 6 with a shaved cylinder and trying to "fix" it can quickly exceed the value of the gun.
Do what you want in the end, but my opinion is it's not worth it.
 
Akran said:
I need one of you guntism kiwis to help me with this, I just picked up an Enfield No 1 Mk VI .45 revolver that has a bulge in the barrel from a squib. I was told not to shoot it, I want to shoot it. Should I send it in somewhere for repair or just send it? I am thinking send it because it doesn't look bad. Here are some photos
View attachment 6572077 View attachment 6572079View attachment 6572081
If I cant shoot it I won't be too upset, it was a very fair price, Apex has barrels with cylinders for a fair price but for 38spl instead of .45.
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if you aren't sending very hot loads down the pipe it should be safe. most revolver, even older ones, can handle a few squibs with little issue even with a visible shadow. the problem comes from a combination of not knowing the history of that barrel, and examining it for cracks that the bulge has precipitated, which is where it's a serious safety concern. cracks from bulges (since bulges are from over-pressure) can fail very suddenly rather than progressively like you would assume.

the proper fix is either a new barrel, a fill and liner installation, or the preferred way which is a mandrel and hammering out the bulge, which is very difficult to do by hand (i use a power hammer machine). fill and liner will not last, trust me on that, i've done them and they are good for a few thousand rounds then a re-line is needed. a new barrel or hammering out the bulge might be cost prohibitive, hammering takes hours and hours of shop time.
 
The cops up in brampton (shithole suburb north of Toronto, infamous for its demographics being like 60% "south asian")
Have done a firearms seizure, check out the latest and most dangerous weapons the newest batch of Canadians are using.
Sledgehammer_PHOTOS_draft1.jpg
Sledgehammer_MUGS_draft12.jpg
 
Picked up this Turkish 12ga bullpup after finger banging one at the Oaks gun show. For the 200 bucks I spent it feels quality and I haven't had it not cycle. Got 00 buck and deer slugs through it. I will say this cooled me off on buying a Desert Tech WLVRN in 308. The bullpup setup is kinda clunky to reload and charge since i'm so used to traditional rifle setups.
 

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DocAwe said:
Wall hanger bro.
I have a MK. 6 with a shaved cylinder and trying to "fix" it can quickly exceed the value of the gun.
Do what you want in the end, but my opinion is it's not worth it.
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Club Sandwich said:
if you aren't sending very hot loads down the pipe it should be safe. most revolver, even older ones, can handle a few squibs with little issue even with a visible shadow. the problem comes from a combination of not knowing the history of that barrel, and examining it for cracks that the bulge has precipitated, which is where it's a serious safety concern. cracks from bulges (since bulges are from over-pressure) can fail very suddenly rather than progressively like you would assume.

the proper fix is either a new barrel, a fill and liner installation, or the preferred way which is a mandrel and hammering out the bulge, which is very difficult to do by hand (i use a power hammer machine). fill and liner will not last, trust me on that, i've done them and they are good for a few thousand rounds then a re-line is needed. a new barrel or hammering out the bulge might be cost prohibitive, hammering takes hours and hours of shop time.
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I think I can see cracks but I'll have to find my borescope or find a new one. In the meantime I'll consider a 38spl barrel/cyl assembly until I can clearly see the damage if any. Everything else about the gun is perfect except the bulge
 
Applied Autism said:
Picked up this Turkish 12ga bullpup after finger banging one at the Oaks gun show. For the 200 bucks I spent it feels quality and I haven't had it not cycle. Got 00 buck and deer slugs through it. I will say this cooled me off on buying a Desert Tech WLVRN in 308. The bullpup setup is kinda clunky to reload and charge since i'm so used to traditional rifle setups.
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The dog looks embarrassed that you traded valuable currency for that.
 
Applied Autism said:
Picked up this Turkish 12ga bullpup after finger banging one at the Oaks gun show. For the 200 bucks I spent it feels quality and I haven't had it not cycle. Got 00 buck and deer slugs through it. I will say this cooled me off on buying a Desert Tech WLVRN in 308. The bullpup setup is kinda clunky to reload and charge since i'm so used to traditional rifle setups.
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Turkish shotguns can be hit or miss but I've heard good things from others about that specific model. With Turkish shotguns you're either getting a complete piece of shit or a diamond in the rough at a price that can't be beat. Turkey is quickly becoming the modern-day China for US-market small arms.
 
S.C.U.D. said:
Turkish shotguns can be hit or miss but I've heard good things from others about that specific model. With Turkish shotguns you're either getting a complete piece of shit or a diamond in the rough at a price that can't be beat. Turkey is quickly becoming the modern-day China for US-market small arms.
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Every few years the designated cheap guns country changes. It was China, then Russia and now Turkey took up the mantle.
 
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