Car Thread - VROOM VROOM

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What is your favorite car? (Top 3)

  • Ame Sea

    Votes: 6 1.7%
  • Ferd

    Votes: 76 21.9%
  • Chevus

    Votes: 29 8.4%
  • Crintzler

    Votes: 5 1.4%
  • Doge

    Votes: 38 11.0%
  • Beem Dubya

    Votes: 27 7.8%
  • Mersaydis

    Votes: 28 8.1%
  • Volts-Wagon

    Votes: 30 8.6%
  • FIOT

    Votes: 8 2.3%
  • Joop

    Votes: 21 6.1%
  • Alphonse Romero

    Votes: 9 2.6%
  • Vulva

    Votes: 34 9.8%
  • Teslur

    Votes: 11 3.2%
  • Mincooper

    Votes: 6 1.7%
  • Knee-Son

    Votes: 17 4.9%
  • Hun-die

    Votes: 11 3.2%
  • Toyoder

    Votes: 122 35.2%
  • Hondo

    Votes: 89 25.6%
  • Subrue

    Votes: 47 13.5%

  • Total voters
    347
Car needs three things to run: fuel, spark, and air.

What sound is it making when you turn the key in the ignition? If it's making a clicking sound, it means the starter (spark) is fine. If it's not, you should double check the battery (do the dash lights come on when you stick the key in, will it start when being jumped using jumper cables) or the starter.

If it's not the starter, check the fuel pump. The engine may not be getting any fuel even if you have filled the tank.

Good luck.
Thanks for responding so fast!

Yes, it does make a clicking sound. The car sounds like it wants to start, it just can't get over that "hump." The dash lights do come on. We have not tried to jump yet. My husband insists if the battery is 100%, it doesn't need jumped. No, I don't believe him totally on this, but what do I know. He is positive it is not the starter, although I'm not sure how he came to this conclusion. I suggested the fuel pump to him. He is sure it is not the fuel point, although, again, how he came to this conclusion is beyond me.

I am going to push about the fuel pump again. He already replaced the alternator and the battery, so why not a new fuel pump too at this point.
 
Cars don't suddenly die because of a starter, they won't crank/turn over when you try to start them, all the starter does is spin the engine up. If the starter won't turn the engine over it's either the battery (a volt meter will tell you this, anything under 12V at rest can indicate a problem whether it be low battery, bad cell, dead battery), the starter (or a bad connection to the starter or battery), or a seized engine. In some cars there are starter relays but you won't even get a click from the starter if they fail.

There are any number of things that could cause a car to die while driving and not start, some may throw a code and some may not. Crank position sensors for example might, but a fuel pump or fuel pump relay probably won't. It's easy to check for spark since all you have to do is pull a coil or plug wire and check to see if it throws a spark to ground while cranking, or spraying some starting fluid down the intake while cranking. If there's no spark it's usually something like a crank sensor, coil driver/igniter if there is one, immobilizer. If there's spark it's probably not getting fuel, and you check for that by pulling a plug after cranking it and seeing if it's wet or smells like fuel. If it's getting fuel but not enough or too much it will typically sound like it's trying to start, occasionally firing. If it's not enough or too much fuel it's usually something that the ECU uses to calculate how much fuel it should be delivering like a MAP or MAF sensor. Then there are the least likely; compression issues, but the engine usually sounds strange while cranking if it has those, will crank too fast or unevenly. If there are compression issues and you have to ask, they're not something you can fix. I don't know 2.5 altima stuff, but the common cause of that is a timing belt failure and I doubt it has a timing belt, but a chain, and they typically make a lot of noise before they fail.
 
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Cars don't suddenly die because of a starter, they won't crank/turn over when you try to start them, all the starter does is spin the engine up. If the starter won't turn the engine over it's either the battery (a volt meter will tell you this, anything under 12V at rest can indicate a problem whether it be low battery, bad cell, dead battery), the starter (or a bad connection to the starter or battery), or a seized engine. In some cars there are starter relays but you won't even get a click from the starter if they fail.

There are any number of things that could cause a car to die while driving and not start, some may throw a code and some may not. Crank position sensors for example might, but a fuel pump or fuel pump relay probably won't. It's easy to check for spark since all you have to do is pull a coil or plug wire and check to see if it throws a spark to ground while cranking, or spraying some starting fluid down the intake while cranking. If there's no spark it's usually something like a crank sensor, coil driver/igniter if there is one, immobilizer. If there's spark it's probably not getting fuel, and you check for that by pulling a plug after cranking it and seeing if it's wet or smells like fuel. If it's getting fuel but not enough or too much it will typically sound like it's trying to start, occasionally firing. If it's not enough or too much fuel it's usually something that the ECU uses to calculate how much fuel it should be delivering like a MAP or MAF sensor. Then there are the least likely; compression issues, but the engine usually sounds strange while cranking if it has those, will crank too fast or unevenly. If there are compression issues and you have to ask, they're not something you can fix. I don't know 2.5 altima stuff, but the common cause of that is a timing belt failure and I doubt it has a timing belt, but a chain, and they typically make a lot of noise before they fail.

Thank you! So he is convincing himself it has to do with the crank sensor now. I'll have to tell him about the methods you metioned to check it before he just up and replaces it. Which I thinknis his plan now. I worried about a seized engine since it happened to me before in another car. He seems convinced it is not a seized engine, however neither of us are car mechanics. If the crank sensor is not the issue, I guess he plans to move on to the fuel pump. He watched a YouTube video on how to replace one, and I was surprised how--not simple, but doable for someone with only some car experience. The biggest issue would be finding a realiable one. The price ranges on them are a little crazy.
 
Mrs. Basso "why don't you make another set of ITBS (individual throttle bodies) for the civic you did before and never used them.

That counts as a I'm ok to do this right? Also she asked so I can do this BEFORE I turbo the sexus right? lol. Honestly, the amount of work for doing that an then figuring how to make a Plemum, since open doesn't make as good power, and sucks up far too much heat.... yeah no thanks I'm over 200 I'm good... it would sound badass(er). But all that then tuning again... yeah guess next project is bewst.
 
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So, just learned that I'll be expected to drive long distance in the next two years for work.

Which cheap jap car should I get? I think the most plentiful one in the 2nd hand market are honda civics. Should I get one?

Edit: I also want a cheap 2nd hand mercedes but I have a feeling that the repair cost will be more than what I brought the car for
 
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Mazda feels majorly overlooked. A lot of their catalog, especially the older cars, are unique/fun/affordable/reliable like no other brands out there.
It's weird reading about Mazda being some sort of unknown niche brand. Here in Australia, Mazda is about as mainstream as it gets. They've been the second biggest selling brand down here for over 10 years (but they still only sell around half the number of vehicles Toyota does).

In my experience, Mazda is on par with Toyota and Honda wrt reliability, plus they have some of the nicest interiors this side of Lexus. You could do much worse, like Nissan or Subaru and their dogshit CVT trannies.
Which cheap jap car should I get? I think the most plentiful one in the 2nd hand market are honda civics. Should I get one?
Civic, Corolla or Mazda3. Though with the latter, idk what the parts situation is like as opposed to the first two (assuming you're in the States).
 
Mazda sells rotary engines again with the MX-30 and no one talks about it lmao
Its used as a range extender, so no *BWAAAAP* dorito sounds like an RX-7 unfortunately.
Side note, I was considering an ex-lease MX-30 as a daily, but battery only models have such mediocre range.
 
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So, just learned that I'll be expected to drive long distance in the next two years for work.

Which cheap jap car should I get? I think the most plentiful one in the 2nd hand market are honda civics. Should I get one?
NA Civic or Corolla. Accept no substitutes if all you care about is longevity. Prius is also worth considering as long as it's either less than ten years old or has had the battery pack replaced already.
 
Test drove a Hyundai Tiburon — and honestly?
What a surprise.

Despite being FWD, the handling is sharp and confident.
It actually feels eager in corners, with just the right amount of feedback.

The 2.0L engine revs happily up to 6,500 RPM, and even with over 100k miles, it’s still smooth and responsive.
No drama, no hesitation — just solid, old-school engineering doing its job.

Interior-wise? Soft-touch materials all around.
The doors close with a satisfying thunk, no rattles, no creaks.
It feels well-built — like someone actually cared during assembly.


Which brings me to the question:

What the hell happened to cars?


New cars are packed with tech for Boomers that can't even uninstall apps on their phones.
But the basics feel cheaper than ever.
Scratchy plastics, lifeless steering, fake engine sounds, touch sliders where real buttons should be.
And with all the driving assists, people somehow still drive worse.

Everything’s turbocharged now — not for the joy of it, but to hit emissions and marketing numbers.
The result?
Higher prices, more complexity, and questionable long-term reliability.

And don’t get me started on prices.


2025-07-02-10-09-suchen.mobile.de.webp
In Germany, you can now spec an Audi A6 with touch-sensitive steering wheel controls — and it’ll cost you 106,000 €.
That’s not a joke. That’s over $120,000.

For the same money, you could buy:
  • A used Audi R8,
  • An Audi S1 as your daily,
  • And an Audi A4 Avant for hauling stuff.

All three. For the price of one new A6.

Fuck my life dude.
I'm gonna fuck a dude.:lossmanjack:
 
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Test drove a Hyundai Tiburon — and honestly?
What a surprise.

Despite being FWD, the handling is sharp and confident.
It actually feels eager in corners, with just the right amount of feedback.

The 2.0L engine revs happily up to 6,500 RPM, and even with over 100k miles, it’s still smooth and responsive.
No drama, no hesitation — just solid, old-school engineering doing its job.

Interior-wise? Soft-touch materials all around.
The doors close with a satisfying thunk, no rattles, no creaks.
It feels well-built — like someone actually cared during assembly.


Which brings me to the question:

What the hell happened to cars?


New cars are packed with tech for Boomers that can't even uninstall apps on their phones.
But the basics feel cheaper than ever.
Scratchy plastics, lifeless steering, fake engine sounds, touch sliders where real buttons should be.
And with all the driving assists, people somehow still drive worse.

Everything’s turbocharged now — not for the joy of it, but to hit emissions and marketing numbers.
The result?
Higher prices, more complexity, and questionable long-term reliability.

And don’t get me started on prices.

In Germany, you can now spec an Audi A6 with touch-sensitive steering wheel controls — and it’ll cost you 110,000 €.
That’s not a joke. That’s over $130,000.

For the same money, you could buy:
  • A used Audi R8,
  • An Audi S1 as your daily,
  • And an Audi A4 Avant for hauling stuff.

All three. For the price of one new A6.

Fuck my life dude.
I'm gonna fuck a dude.:lossmanjack:
Buying an Audi is how you tell everyone around you that you're legitimately retarded. It's a VW with a fancier badge that somehow makes the car it's attached to cost half again as much for pretty much the same content (and admittedly better styling, but that's mostly because current VW styling looks like the work of interns).
 
Buying an Audi sedan/hatch/wagon is how you tell everyone around you that you're legitimately retarded. It's a VW with a fancier badge that somehow makes the car it's attached to cost half again as much for pretty much the same content (and admittedly better styling, but that's mostly because current VW styling looks like the work of interns).
You just insulted half of Germany.
Every Boomer that thinks their shit doesn't stink drives a Audi.

1751444149514.webp
This meme is funny because it makes Germans fume.

No wonder Lexus sells like 3.5 cars a year here.
Same with Infiniti, Genesis and Acura — both showed up, looked around, and left the country quietly.

The truth is: Germans have a weird kind of Stockholm Syndrome with their cars.
They’ll defend them to the death — even while dropping thousands at the dealer for routine maintenance and repairs.

But hey, at least the ambient lighting has 64 colors now and they get to show the badge to their neighbor Jürgen that only drives the lower trim model.
 
Where I'm from that's a bad thing. That shit peels, gets sticky, or chips off.
It is sticky as fuck and it peels as well yes.

But getting replacement parts from AliExpress doesn't cost the world.

Maybe $500 for a full interior refresh?
Including aftermarket carplay?

Do that every 10 or so years and you're gucci.
 
The nicest Lexus ES you can afford.
They said the best car is the car you can afford, and I can't afford a Lexus.

I need a cheap car and I don't give a shit if it comes with the AC broken or something like that. I desperately need something that drives and won't have to be serviced every other week
 
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You can get a 100k mile Lexus ES for 5k. How much cheaper do you need it to be? You're gonna have to dump some serious money into anything cheaper than that.
 
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