Firearm 3D Printing General - Cody Wilson Did Absolutely Nothing Wrong

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Also, idk if it's possible, but I feel like silver or may make a great baffle or mesh/sponge as they're so conductive, so they may suck up heat faster.
Surface area, conduction rate, gas composition all have an effect. What's the actual composition? High CO2 means you can use copper wool if needed, with less baffling.

Actually, now that you say it with aggressive baffling - have you tried aerofoiled, or perforated or like, needle-like baffling? Obviously not crossing the middle, but a combination of strong and soft to "spread and dampen" the flow as much as possible.

CO2, H2O and N2 seem to be the main components, so it's going to cool at the speed of its contact surface area until somewhere between 30C, 375C and whatever nitrogen is (high pressure but low af temperature) - it's the same reason why superheated steam is used in turbines, because it is extremely efficient at transferring energy.

You're right in that silver is a good baffle, but copper and weird shit, like diamond, is right at the top. You're dealing with ~1-2g of gases, total, and all of it has a low specific heat - I checked the tables and paraffin wax, coated in a full layer of metal like copper or silver with a high surface area, would work as a perfect heat sink. Wax has a huge "Specific Heat Capacity" - that is, it takes a lot of energy for it to heat up - napkin math says that you'd heat up a layer of wax adding up to a few grams at a rate of 1/500th the gases cooling. So if it's CO2 going from 800K down to 300K, then you're heating up the equivalent mass of wax by 1 degree.

Wax is hardly a super material, but that's the basis of a three-layer system "Break, transfer, sink" rather than just "break, transfer" - since the wax remains at such a low temperature, it cools the transfer metal too - meaning you don't have the transfer rate slowing down until long past the supercriticality window.

Edit: Woops, that was the molar rate, that's because wax has a super long chain length. It's still workable, but only a rate of 1/3 or so that of the gas. 100G of wax would still probably not melt, and it still absorbs heat 3 times as "well" as aluminium, but it's not as super impressive as I made it out to be.

Actually if you're available to be a guinea pig, @SHIGGSHOGG

Aluminium foil has an incredibly high heat transfer rate, and I can verify that it spreads out heat quickly enough that you would have trouble melting wax with a 2000W heat gun at max temperature, from less than an inch away.

If you have a candle, and some aluminium foil, you could test it with practically no overhead - just cut a hole down the middle of a candle, cover the inside in a generous layer of aluminium foil and then blast it with a blowtorch so that it's nice and melted against the foil. Then mount it to the end of a rifle, and shoot down it.

Wrap the outside in duct tape and some kind of support, and you're good to go - it's wax, so it's soft enough that it won't obstruct the barrel if it starts melting - aluminium suppressors melt so easily because they heat up readily. Wax would make a cheap solid heat sink, and if you really mix the foil in there, the heat might not even melt the wax - it would diffuse throughout it, so much

Different chemicals express changes in energy, as a change in temperature, at different rates. For most gases, it's ~1 or 2 and for PLA itself, it's 1.5 - while for paraffin, it's 2.5. Aluminium is 0.8, and silver is 0.25 - so do NOT use silver. Bad idea.

This means that for each unit of energy change, a certain amount is expressed as heat and thus, a phase change. Silver heats up ten times as much as wax - so if you had a pound of wax, the same energy to bring that wax up by 50C would bring the silver up by 500C. As the temperature rises, it slows this process down - and as the temperature difference rises, it increases the speed. So the silver would quickly take all of that heat from the gas (roughly 1 per gram) but it would spread it around the metal, increasing the temperature of the metal so much that the heat exchange rate slows down dramatically. You would want an additional heat sink, so that the silver stays at a high temperature but can still conduct that heat into something which isn't going to heat up as quickly.

Water would also work - but for you, the most likely candidate would be 3D Printed plastic, with a generous layering of aluminium foil. The goal is to use the foil as a intermediary, so the more of it that is in contact with the plastic heat-sink, the better.

Per unit volume, aluminium, silver or copper foil or plating on a heat sink material is best - organic materials have a much higher heat capacity than metals, so you could use 3D Printed plastic instead of wax if that's better. The goal is to make sure that the gases themselves contact the thin layer of metal, and that metal is in contact with the plastic directly - so that it transfers the heat across the gradient, which is kept strong by the high contact surface area, higher mass, and higher heat capacity. That way, the rate of heat transfer doesn't dramatically slow down when the metal heats up, and you can save some money.

The difference sounds minor, but the goal is to take heat away from the gas - so you'll want something on the other side of that silver, conducting heat away from it, as quickly as the gases can convect heat onto it. More silver would work, but then you're battling with silver's temperature rise - the longer the surface stays hot, the less heat it will take from the gases.

Now that I have the idea, I would definitely like to see it tested - 3D Printers can also be used, either with or without the wax. The wax is cheaper and a better heat sink and, if you have a flat enough surface, you can just melt some wax onto some foil, then sandwich it in an extremely thin layer, then cut the foil into disks, load it into a pipe and test it out. But, it would warp pretty quickly if there's no support - just nowhere near as quickly as you would expect, because wax tanks heat changes.

3D printed plastic can also work as a heat sink, and you can probably get the foil to adhere with a blowtorch or a heatgun without melting it - you have more control over the contact surface area and shape, and it would support itself better. The overall best would be an aluminium/silver plated metal structure which you can fill with plastic, wax or water, but that's not a "today" kind of thing.

Stats-wise, the best is actually silver-plated lithium sponge, but that's absolutely not something I'm willing to fuck around with, lithium would explode if the silver was scratched off.

Aluminium foil, diamond-dust polishing crystals - the steps are, as you said, break-up and transfer the heat, but then with an extra heat sink after that. Diamond powder also has an absurdly high heat transfer rate, and would probably be the best per unit of surface area - and you can actually mix them in and paint them on, then use an organic heat sink to disperse the heat.

So those are my two suggestions, either aluminium foil adhered onto a 3D-Printed can, or 3D Printed, sprayed down with a fine layer of diamond dust. If the cost of PLA is a factor, use a combo of that and some wax - DM me if you want me to design something more specific.
 
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If the cost of PLA is a factor
How to out yourself as not 3D printing anything, lol.

The problem is that PLA emits heat rather slowly, and stays warm for a long time. This drastically deceases its usefulness as a mainline suppressor material because if it melts, you have a serious issue. (What issue that is depends on your design.) PLA suppressors work, but there's a reason the whizz-bang guns the Army is testing right now all use titanium instead.

The trick is not "how to make a gun silent once", that is easy. The issue is how to silence automatic firearms, and so far the solution is "let the can get hot and make it so it doesn't melt."
 
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I did a deeper dive, and found the cheapest possible method.

There is actually a very solid, easily accessible metal composition which would work - a fuckload of pennies, stacked perpendicular to the barrel, in an "arch" or with a hole drilled in the center of each.

US pennies are made of copper-plated zinc. Copper is about as good as silver for the desired temperature range, and conducts heat into zinc - which has a decent heat capacity. Copper-Steel is better for the heat capacity per unit density (aka British pennies), but aluminium-plastic/wax is best for unit mass. So if you want a compact version which is more tricky and densely packed, as many pennies around a central shaft would actually do it quite well.

A penny has 2.5grams of mainly zinc, and with a 9mm hole in the middle, that's still 1.95 grams of zinc, it's thin enough that both sides of the coin would absorb the heat via the copper surface faster than it is likely to get heated. You could get a faster rate with something thinner than pennies, but there's not many cheaper sources of a "decent enough" alloy.

The problem is that PLA emits heat rather slowly, and stays warm for a long time. This drastically deceases its usefulness as a mainline suppressor material because if it melts, you have a serious issue. (What issue that is depends on your design.) PLA suppressors work, but there's a reason the whizz-bang guns the Army is testing right now all use titanium instead.
Yeah, I mentioned, I don't have a 3D Printer or a gun. PLA emitting heat is more of a dimensional problem, so sandwiching it with layers of aluminium or copper would cool it down quicker, and heat it up quicker. Or in this case, zinc/copper. They use titanium because they have easy access to titanium sponge - industry generally uses plate heat exchangers and an actual heat sink. Usually water, or CO2, or like molten salt - they use plates of titanium or oftentimes, stainless steel, because it has a high temperature tolerance. You likely don't need either though - the gases will only get up to a few hundred celsius, and that's where the heat transfer gets difficult. Once the metal reaches that temperature, it has to go somewhere before the metal can take heat from the gas - in the "military-grade" aka mass produced versions, they let it diffuse throughout the metal which is "good enough" for its purpose.

In the plastic-wax version, you get a faster rate of transfer - since the metal is cooled by the contact with the PLA/Wax - but the PLA itself can struggle with sustained fire.

Think of it more like you'd think of a water-cooled machinegun from the olden days, but instead of water, it uses a jacket of plastic to help diffuse the heat. It will definitely have its shortcomings, but unless you have a handy-dandy stack of titanium sponge cylinders on-hand, the stack of pennies covered in plastic might do well enough.

The only problem I can see is that instead of just pissing off the ATF, you get to piss of the Secret Service too.

The problem is that PLA emits heat rather slowly, and stays warm for a long time.
So, I didn't explain very well - this is what I want to actually take advantage of, by sandwiching layers of PLA between a conductive metal, like copper-zinc - that's the cheapest thing I could think of that demonstrates the idea. The other cheap way is to reinforce aluminium foil with saran wrap, in layers.

Titanium has a heat capacity of 0.5J/gK^-1, so, each joule of energy heats it up by 2 degrees (4ish, fahrenheit) per gram. The military ones make up for that, by making them bulkier - this method reduces overall weight, by using organic materials like plastic to absorb that heat, at the cost of complexity and finicky bullshit.

Plastic, as in PVC, is 0.9 - so, if you applied a blowtorch for the same amount of time to an equal mass of titanium, enough to heat up the surface by 1 degree, it would heat up the PVC by only 0.556 degrees. If you used PLA, which has a specific heat capacity of 1.5, then it would be 0.33 degrees. Or, if you heat up the titanium to 525 degrees celcius from 25, at which point, roughly, it stops taking heat away from the gas because it's the same temperature as it, the PLA would only reach 160ish degrees Celcius. If you sandwiched metal with PLA, the high contact area would mean it can keep its structure for much longer - because although the PLA melts more easily, it will be take a lot more energy to reach that higher temperature than another material would.

If you did it with wax and titanium, the wax would heat up by only 1/5th the amount of the titanium. So, if you merged the two in layers, the titanium would be cooled by the wax - since the temperature gradient is high between the wax and the titanium - and the titanium can then absorb heat more quickly from the gas, since it can "throw out" the heat as quickly as it gains it, and maintain a lower temperature than if it was metal behind it - since the metal behind it would heat up, just as quickly.

The plastic in PLA, as you mentioned, is likely to fail if it's used for its structural strength, alone - I did check and see what the cheapest possible materials would be, and it seems that layering aluminium foil with cling film (saran warp) would transfer the heat from aluminium straight into the plastic, which has a specific heat of 2.5 and a melting point of about 100 degrees. By the time it reaches its melting point, an equivalent mass of titanium would have run into the boundary of a low temperature gradient between its surface and the gas - but if it's a foil, with a layer of plastic directly behind it, then the heat would dump into the plastic.

You can test this yourself with some foil and some saran wrap - layer them on top of eachother, and wrap them around something. It absorbs heat way more because the metal dumps it into the plastic as a heat-sink. I'm sure there's better plastics than fuckin' sandwich preserver but it's one that you can get easily.

The actual maths are just that the metal can't conduct heat away from the gas, fast enough, because the rate of conduction is lower than the rate of convection in a tube like this. Smokeless powder is around 3kJ per gram, most of which is heat, pressed against an area of 50cm^2 - you need to increase that surface area, and make sure that the surface area remains cool enough to take that heat away.
 

First: Does anyone have a Sig P365 frame .stl/etc. ?​

effortposting, very nice
Eventually you run into issues with the fancy=weight principle of bad military procurement. Any time you want to worry about layered heat banks on the inside of a can, Boyle's Law tells you that empty air volume would help too but not unbalance the end of your gun.

If you shoot a .22 inside a building, people outside probably won't hear you, but you can't carry a house in your pocket. Or at least I can't.

Personally, I think cans just fat enough not to block your sights/lasers are the way to go and that sintered titanium can be left for GPMGs.
 
fancy=weight
Oh this is why I focused on organic sinks.

Per unit volume, the overall "heat capacity" - in a slightly adjusted sense, i.e the amount of energy it can tolerate before failure, is roughly the same. Titanium is denser than vaseline, and obvioisly more expensive. The metal is there to help spread that heat around the organic material, but the organic material heats up so slowly and releases heat so slowly that, in terms of just energy displacement, you get the same.

In reality - the PLA would fail quicker, but only because it would absorb more energy. But that's exactly what you want it to do. Vaseline is a good option instead of wax - but only below 100F ambient.

Phase change shit, so a well spread out metal structure would hold itself as a barrier at around 100F, where 50g or 100g would take around a full 10 kJ of heat to move above the melting point - and cool everything down quickly as it resolidifies.

It has been used for that, before, in some specialist applications - I would like to test that one out. If you have spare cans, wrap one in tin foil, then lube it up with vaseline and then another layer of tin foil.
 
I'm thinking of fucking around with the idea of a TPU holster, I don't see why it wouldn't work? Maybe I'll tweak the riptide mainsail a bit and see if it's any good.

Any of y'all fuck around with TPU at all?
 
I'm thinking of fucking around with the idea of a TPU holster, I don't see why it wouldn't work? Maybe I'll tweak the riptide mainsail a bit and see if it's any good.

Any of y'all fuck around with TPU at all?
No, but I will say that you can probably get more done by printing the shape and then using it as a solid base to build the rest from something fancy and durable, like leather patches. Or, use it for a bit of both. It seems very elastic, so reholstering a weapon after firing would warp the inside and may grip it.

Does anybody have any rough idea of what to coat something in, which would allow for electroplating? Like a liquid which wouldn't pool, but would "wet the surface" and would be insoluble in water. "Hot vaseline" with like, copper powder? Graphite seems like it would work with other organics through some chemical magic, but otherwise, something to hold onto that surface that would let it receive plating.
 
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Anyone have any experience with 3D printing assisted casting?
I now have access to an induction furnace and thus have come to the natural conclusion of building a cannon and mounting it to a truck.
 
Anyone here manage to print a Hitchhiker yet?

Seen a few in abysmal color choices, but I'm jazzed as fuck to make the pistol version for myself.
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Ordered the parts kit from MAF, I've been waiting for a good takedown .22 from the 3dpg community to jump into the hobby and it is finally here.
The open bolt design is pretty cool but I wonder how much doing it would take to modify the fcg to be magazine fed/closed bolt.

I get the whole single shot 'survival' concept behind it, but shooting fast is fun and I want to do it on a takedown plastigat
 
Just a heads-up for anyone still watching the thread, Cody Wilson of DEFCAD is experiencing an imminent meltdown and is lashing out at anyone who slights him. If you were one of the poor suckers who signed up using your personally identifiable information I'd work on distancing yourself as legally quickly as possible.
https://x.com/SuckBoyTony1/status/1844499274836607047 (A)
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coping wilson.jpg
 
Have P1S finally. Need to buy more filament, but haven’t printed anything in awhile.

What’s the new go-to filament other than PLA+ and file repository? I still see and grab files from Odysee from the same few accounts since the beginning, but I’m sure things have changed.
 
Just a heads-up for anyone still watching the thread, Cody Wilson of DEFCAD is experiencing an imminent meltdown and is lashing out at anyone who slights him. If you were one of the poor suckers who signed up using your personally identifiable information I'd work on distancing yourself as legally quickly as possible.
https://x.com/SuckBoyTony1/status/1844499274836607047 (A)
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Have P1S finally. Need to buy more filament, but haven’t printed anything in awhile.

What’s the new go-to filament other than PLA+ and file repository? I still see and grab files from Odysee from the same few accounts since the beginning, but I’m sure things have changed.
PLA and PLA+ are really where it's at, but the heat stuff sucks. CF Nylon takes care of heat but is less rigid than PLA, has issues with creeping, but is also brittle when dry and rubbery when wet. PPA-CF seems like really good plastic as it's not terrible with water and doesn't have PLA drawbacks, but it's also expensive as fuck, like $100+kg bad. Considering the weight of a Glock frame with support material you're looking at a $10+ frame which really isn't that bad, but failed prints will stack up quick with something that expensive. You really have to be selective with plastic like that when deciding to use it or not for certain things.
It's a shame PLA has such poor heat tolerance as it'd be the perfect plastic otherwise. PETG and all the others are really not things you'd want to use as they either have poor strength, layer adhesion, or break dramatically. You also don't really want anything that's GF, and you don't want CF unless it's in some Nylon variation as it generally doesn't help things. Looking at all decent plastic stuff irl it's a GF Nylon or a proprietary variation, things like Magpul, Glock, and power tools being the finest examples.
 
Daily reminder to air-gap your printer.

A team of minor attracted persons academic researchers (Montclair State University) partnered with cloud-based 3d printing management platform 3DPrinterOS to develop a 3dprinting tool. The tool detects if firearm components are being printed, and will block/abort the print.
This unholy alliance is targeting popular 3dprinter manufactures to force-feed this algo into their code.

Development goals include print terminations and surreptitious alerts to federal, state, and local authorities.

Print&Go is also using this algorithm and have developed a tool called 3D GUN'T.
No, I am not kidding.
3D GUN'T has developed a database of 'ghost guns' and firearm components. The software boasts about the use of AI to continually update the database. Additionally, the software logs every print into an encrypted file accessible to authorities. It also uses the 3d printer camera(s) to monitor, record, and terminate any print of 'ghost gun' components.

Of course, our glowing agencies have nothing to do with these efforts


Progressives will have their gun control and abortions, regardless
 
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Since Black Lotus Coalition is working on a STG44 kit I'm interested in printing again, been thinking about getting a CR10 but I'd really prefer something with auto bed leveling. I think the newer CR10s have it but I need to look into it more. I want a printer big enough for those type of projects, was looking into prusa too but I'm on the fence
 
Since Black Lotus Coalition is working on a STG44 kit I'm interested in printing again, been thinking about getting a CR10 but I'd really prefer something with auto bed leveling. I think the newer CR10s have it but I need to look into it more. I want a printer big enough for those type of projects, was looking into prusa too but I'm on the fence

Ditto. I think Prusa is overpriced. Also the build/shipping delay and cost is crazy.
The new Prusa Core has a January ship date, but they are notorious for shipping late.

I won't shit on them anymore, though. Their fans are rabid. Also, their contributions are extremely significant, and customer service is tops.

I know a company that has run a print farm for 5 years with Prusa Minis and Mk3's. Guess what they starting upgrading to last year? Bambu X1C.
I personally have suffered with my Creality for long enough. I am making the change to Bambu soon.
 
Ditto. I think Prusa is overpriced. Also the build/shipping delay and cost is crazy.
The new Prusa Core has a January ship date, but they are notorious for shipping late.

I won't shit on them anymore, though. Their fans are rabid. Also, their contributions are extremely significant, and customer service is tops.

I know a company that has run a print farm for 5 years with Prusa Minis and Mk3's. Guess what they starting upgrading to last year? Bambu X1C.
I personally have suffered with my Creality for long enough. I am making the change to Bambu soon.
What Bambu are you looking at? I fucking hated the ender 3 so much, upgrade after upgrade new issues would pop up. I realized I'm kinda retarded thinking the CR10 would be better but price wise it's hard to beat. I haven't looked into Bambu too much, I see the P1S is around the same price point but I think the beds too small for what I want todo
 
Sovol is a pretty good bang for your buck brand, especially the 06 and 08. Comgrow seems solid too and offers a very large bed model.
I have 1,900 hours through my SV06+ and haven't had anything super bad happen to it that wasn't my fault. It also does Nylon pretty well which is really the main thing I wanted it for when I bought it. I've broken plenty of shit on it through learning and Sovol has been cool enough to send me new shit. The only thing wrong with it was the main switch burned out at probably 1,600 hours and Sovol sent me a new one while I was using a cheap replacement from Amazon. They seem to be a pretty good value when you start to consider size and features as the 06 is basically a 320mm Prusa.

Idk what the Creality situation is for it's legacy designs, but they seem to be made of shittier parts and upgrades seem more necessary. I'd avoid anything with rollers or things that wear out frequently as that just seems like an aged design. Bambu and and the K series printers look good, but ease of nozzle change, simplicity, and reasonably priced replacement parts are important in the long run. The open Bambu machines look to be a really good value when on sale but you do have to consider bed size as they're Ender or smaller.
 
What Bambu are you looking at? I fucking hated the ender 3 so much, upgrade after upgrade new issues would pop up. I realized I'm kinda retarded thinking the CR10 would be better but price wise it's hard to beat. I haven't looked into Bambu too much, I see the P1S is around the same price point but I think the beds too small for what I want todo
Looking at the X1C. Creality is great for learning - but 50% of my original components failed, and now I have some crazy z-axis vibration.

I want the 'it just works' experience. Auto Bed Leveling will go a long way for that experience.

(people are modding the Bambus like crazy now - there is a BigTreeTech upgrade for the Revo nozzles)
 
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