Firearm 3D Printing General - Cody Wilson Did Absolutely Nothing Wrong

[Yandex Captcha Solver]

Does anyone here know if there's a regular gun thread in General? Null mentioned it a few times on MATI and I can't find any of the such.

https://kiwifarms.st/threads/mega-rad-gun-thread.550/

 

[Rekeita's Kidneys]

well the more tools the better. I put mine together with a basic bitch Lincoln wire-feed welder. EXIF has been wiped so glowies can suck my cock. It has two barrels one is for targets and is extremely accurate, one is for people with "tinnitus"

View attachment 6139933

Fuck that's giving me ideas...
Fuck feds and fuck my cuck state as well, shall NOT be infringed!

 

[SHIGGSHOGG]

well the more tools the better. I put mine together with a basic bitch Lincoln wire-feed welder. EXIF has been wiped so glowies can suck my cock. It has two barrels one is for targets and is extremely accurate, one is for people with "tinnitus"

View attachment 6139933

How'd you do the barrels, did you start with a blank or just a regular barrel? I feel like blanks these days are just so much higher quality than an old, used, and pitted pistol barrel on what was once a cheap gun. The MK series seems expensive to get into since I can't really seem to find grips and the trigger is sorta shid, but it maybe seems more suppressor friendly?

 

[Troon_Patrol]

How'd you do the barrels, did you start with a blank or just a regular barrel? I feel like blanks these days are just so much higher quality than an old, used, and pitted pistol barrel on what was once a cheap gun. The MK series seems expensive to get into since I can't really seem to find grips and the trigger is sorta shid, but it maybe seems more suppressor friendly?

How did you do the core of the can, and does it compare to an FTN3 in Minecraft?

The barrel source was actually just perfect. Some random dude was selling a second hand HUGE like 1.5" diameter barrel blank in .224 diameter. 12-14" IIRC practically for free. I chopped it in half and made one barrel that standard 40 grain CCI to JUST under subsonic, I think the math gave me exactly 3.5" OAL. The I took the other half of the barrel blank and chambered it. After both barrels were were cut/chambered/welded to receivers the longer target barrel was about 8" IIRC, that one got a premo Holosun, the shorty 3.5 barrel got an economy red dot as seen in pic.

I made my own .22LR chamber reamer from a piece of drill rod. If you google it the info is out there for the exact specs of chamber reamers and even the grade of chamber "tightness" match grade/vs plinking grade. You will need a lathe and know how to do basic trigonometry. If you look at the barrel to any Ruger mark 1-4 series pistol the geometry is very simple it's just a shoulder cut to stop at the receiver and a feed ramp. The factory made guns are threaded into the receiver just like a traditionally made revolver would be. I didn't even bother with an actual milling machine for the feed ramp just a saw, hand files and a dremel tool.

The trigger by Valquartsen is a thing of beauty feels like a Savage target grade trigger on a rifle to me. The grips are out there, second hand or made by Valquartsen as a set. Yes the Valquartsen grips are pricey. Ruger company are being kind of assholes refusing to sell grip assembly's, for all who do not know the grip assembly is NOT serialized, NOT a regulated part by state or federal LEO, it is NOT the receiver but Ruger still refuses to sell them. It would be like Colt/Palmetto refusing to sell an upper receiver. IDK where you are but in the U.S. the non serialized receiver part of a firearm is just considered a part not a gun. Not to mention it's a .22LR, not exactly a "deadly baby killing mass murdering cartridge" like 5.56. I think we all agree .22LR is only humanly used to kill Racoons or smaller even Racoons I think it's kind pushing it frankly. I dont' doubt the CIA or other glowies have have used Ruger Mark 1's with supressors to quietly take care of commies in problem countries, though. IIRC Ruger even made a special "sterilized" Mark 1 with ZERO markings not even the Ruger name/logo was on the thing, it was made for special US gov uses.

The form 1 stuff I won't talk about on KF, that's crossing the line of things I'm willing to discuss on KF. Not to mention not familiar with FTN 3 at all.

 

[SHIGGSHOGG]

@Troon_Patrol I've machined 2 AR22 barrels from a Green Mountain blank I copped off Brownells before they discontinued the things. 80 bucks for a 25" stainless blank was pretty sick when it was on sale. Also got a Bentz reamer (tightest semi auto chamber) for like $35-40 on sale or with a coupon too. Shipping from Green Mountain themselves is pretty stiff and so are their prices, but I'm not really seeing any better options so far. Chamber in my Buckmark is pretty fat, and I have a suspicion it's rough or pitted. Can't really tell since it's just a pistol with a dot, but I'd like a better chamber if I could, especially if I get a scope.
Thinking I need a long barreled scoped pistol, and I wouldn't trust the Buckmark to that as there's an awful lot relying on the printed grip as it isn't a tube gun. Rather have a rail on the receiver/barrel than relying on one screw in the barrel one in the grip. If I'm able to find a lower grip or somebody posts files for a MK I've got the machinery, specs, and 3D files for cutting jigs. The MKcarbon I think, but I'd just use metal instead. I'm not sure on the barrel length, but Aguila is subsonic from my 5.5 barrel, so I'll probably start at 8 or something and just shave it down.

Getting replacement parts from Browning did require ordering over the phone, but they were quite helpful and sold me what I needed for less than a single part on eBay. I think I emailed Ruger like a year ago with no reply, so I'll def agree on that. I just don't see many 22/45 kits out there, and generally MKs on Fuddbroker seem to go pretty high. Welding the barrel in the MK upper seems like a pretty solid way to do things, but I guess that limits me to regular steel or getting special wire and gas for a stainless upper. I'm thinking thermal press fit with a pin or screw would be pretty solid with a titanium receiver, as I wouldn't be able to weld stainless as it is.

I think you can probably get bigger stuff with a pistol, but it'll either call for special ammo or more shots. Often times you lose a shit ton of power from pistols, sometimes like 800 FPS, so you'd want some higher pressure and higher grain stuff to stay subsonic but powerful. If Aguila Super Sniper didn't get so fucking expensive in the past 4 years I'd shoot that out of everything. With a 7/8 depth hollow point it'll do some solid damage, and leaving the stuff alone it penetrates and keyholes like crazy in targets. Sorta like rimfire 5.45 in a way.
Amazingly the stuff stabilizes from my Buckmark as well, but haven't chronoed yet. Recoils hard though, probably a solid defense load if you trust .22lr enough.
I recall that there was the High Standard HD integrally suppressed thing the US used for various shit since like the 40s, but I don't really know how each pistol works as a suppressor host. I like the ones with a slide or external bolt type thing, as it'd be easy to drill and tap to add weight or a dead blow type system.

 

[Troon_Patrol]

@SHIGGSHOGG , Ugh yeah welding stainless...not fun. Nobody taught me how to weld so I had to learn the hard way welding stainless isn't just like welding 1018. Keep in mind mild steel wire WILL weld to stainless but it will never look right even when both welds and stainless have been blued. Regarding killing things, I used to love varminting, picking off a pest ground dwelling animal at 200 Yards was my jam for years. Unfortunately I lost access to the private land that was my spot. I really don't know what is appropriate for a racoon bobcat coyote etc. People tell me .17HMR is good enough for a coyote, just doesn't sound right. Anything I kill for sport I want to put down humanly even fish. 2 Legged animals, I believe in overkill. 9mm isn't enough, 5.56 isn't enough, that's my 2 cents I'm sure there are a dozen people who'll tell me both are good enough. Once again if I were you and you really wanted that Mark1-3 or 22/45 frame, I'd just buy brand new Valquartsen pre-assembled, pricey but worth it.

 

[Captain Wetbeard]

Since Odysee might disappear at any time I should probably share some of the files I've been hoarding.

 

[SHIGGSHOGG]

Do we have any other file hosting services to upload such things to? I've amassed a solid 15gb of files, mainly comprised of AR, .22lr, can, and blickington stuff and any noteworthy accessories

 

[Doctor Love]

Has anyone tried investment casting using the 3D printed models?

 

[SHIGGSHOGG]

Has anyone tried investment casting using the 3D printed models?

It's not super dimensionally accurate, but with either shrinkage compensation or material removal it's a valid process, and better than any other home shop attainable method.

The issue is that you could be dealing with a scan, which usually has 0.1mm tolerance at best. Then you're printing a scan or a model, which is another level of removal from the original idea. This provides opportunity for literally every type of change. Then there's the drying process of the plaster or ceramic mold material, which will shrink/warp the pattern. The burn out has huge amounts of warpage/shrinkage plus cracking usually. Then to the casting, where there's also a lot of shrinkage even with a vacuum or injection casting, which when all combined will make a medium accurate product at best.
A lot of this can be mitigated, but it's usually best to plan for cleanup and make all hollow spots undersize while scaling the rest of the part up a few percent. This allows for shrinkage, but also a clean up pass with either hand tools or a CNC machine.

Injection molding is far more accurate, but it's entirely unattainable for any normal person.

 

[Orange Rhymer]

It's not super dimensionally accurate, but with either shrinkage compensation or material removal it's a valid process, and better than any other home shop attainable method.

The issue is that you could be dealing with a scan, which usually has 0.1mm tolerance at best. Then you're printing a scan or a model, which is another level of removal from the original idea. This provides opportunity for literally every type of change. Then there's the drying process of the plaster or ceramic mold material, which will shrink/warp the pattern. The burn out has huge amounts of warpage/shrinkage plus cracking usually. Then to the casting, where there's also a lot of shrinkage even with a vacuum or injection casting, which when all combined will make a medium accurate product at best.
A lot of this can be mitigated, but it's usually best to plan for cleanup and make all hollow spots undersize while scaling the rest of the part up a few percent. This allows for shrinkage, but also a clean up pass with either hand tools or a CNC machine.

Injection molding is far more accurate, but it's entirely unattainable for any normal person.

How many do you want? What tonnage? What shot size? Tiebar spacing? Daylight?
(I'm not normal)

 

[Doctor Love]

It's not super dimensionally accurate, but with either shrinkage compensation or material removal it's a valid process, and better than any other home shop attainable method.

Interesting shit - you could always print the parts for a press or injection moulder. The legs and connections, I mean.

The pipework itself is much easier, but with a good idea of how clays, cement and metals interact you could get a lot done with a 3D Printer.

 

[SHIGGSHOGG]

The pipework itself is much easier, but with a good idea of how clays, cement and metals interact you could get a lot done with a 3D Printer.

For sure, but I think people definitely overestimate it a ton. You can certainly print yourself an AR receiver, but a metal one is much lighter and more compact, and likely cheaper when you're taking a filled Nylon.
You can definitely do great with casting when you use 3D as a tool, but it doesn't just magically make casting better, only easier. You still should plan on doing serious machine work afterwards, but machined cast parts are perfectly fine when done and used correctly.

As for injection molding, you're quite limited in what you can do, and there will always be some kind of draft angle involved which makes things irritating.

 

[biguglyboy]

The Prusa originals are kinda boss.

Orig Prusa i3 MK3S+
Pros:
Direct drive filament (no shitty Bowden tubes)
temps good for polycarbonate and nylon.
interchangeable nozzles,(0 .25 - 1.0 mm).
Hardened steel nozzles for carbon/glass filled
Automatic bed leveling
filament run-out protection.
magnetized PEI coated steel bed
$300 accessory allows 5 other filaments 'on-the-fly'

Cons:
_Shitty_ 8bit controller
loud af
B&W screen
$750 kit / $1000 assembled


WTF. $750?! Still, it can do _FIVE_ diff colors/polymers (after an additional $300)

opinions?

I have one and I love it. I fucking love it. I did recently made a mistake and ended up with a huge blob of nylon (I think I left the cooling fan on when nylon calls for it to be off) which by the time I managed to cut free damaged some of the hot end but now that I replaced some of those parts it's running better than ever.
I also have the MMU, the accessory to print 5 colors. That one has traditionally been a bit of nightmare for me, even just printing with one color and just getting it to load/unload to the printer, but I also upgraded that from it's version 2 to 3 and it's only been short time but it seems to function a ton better once I dialed in the calibration, although the most I've done with it so far was switch from an empty spool to a new one midprint.
I've been meaning to upgrade the whole thing to the mk4, I have all the parts ready to go, but it's been running so well I've been hesitant to set aside the time to do it.
It's also worth noting I don't see them doing the kit for 750 anymore although you can still buy it assembled for 900 now. Otherwise it's the Mk4 for 800 kit/1100 assembled. So a little more but that one has a 32 bit controller, color screen, and quieter, although I'm not sure I'd consider my Mk3 all that loud, especially with stealth mode on.

 

[Doctor Love]

You can definitely do great with casting when you use 3D as a tool, but it doesn't just magically make casting better, only easier. You still should plan on doing serious machine work afterwards, but machined cast parts are perfectly fine when done and used correctly.

Yeah, I don't have a printer for it, but I can see the value in it.

It's not the nuts and bolts - it's the oddly shaped hunks of metal which you use between them. Those are the ones which you can really do well with, especially if you can get a good plaster cast for them. But the 3D Printer means you can get those gears, hexagons and perfect curves without the need for a bigger machine.

If you make it with the idea that you can use a stanley to prune it, you can get a lot done. The rest can be put together to run off of any power source, really, and that would include more advanced shit like injection moulding. So long as you can keep printing the PLA model, you can put together some interesting shit. I'm also rather sure you can recycle material with an oven or a heatgun.

 

[Marcuseh]

Attaching files to see if they can be hosted here

If you are gonna post gun files, include the readme otherwise some retard will blow his hands off with a 5% infill print.

 

[Doctor Love]

I have a lot of interesting little ideas, but the 3D print thread should really be more generalised. It can work with the Chemistry at Home thread - if you can use different materials, and especially mill properly.

I can just about use Blender rn, but I've decided I should invest in a CNC and a 3D Printer ASAP. I have a few concepts which I want to test out, most of which is Chemistry/ChemEng related. Essentially, carving miniaturised industrial components into single solid blocks of stainless.

Firearms aren't the only thing which uses precious seamless tubes, so I reckon you could get some fucking incredible processes with 3D Printers and small CNC'd parts.

I am also desperately curious to know if a solenoid "pull" (or whatever the term is for cycling a round manually, like a bolt action) can feasibly turn a .300 blackout rifle into a modernised De Lisle. Not sure who to ask about that, since I'm British and it is expressly forbidden for us to talk about it, despite fighting in two world wars for a total of ten years.

 

[SHIGGSHOGG]

I am also desperately curious to know if a solenoid "pull" (or whatever the term is for cycling a round manually, like a bolt action) can feasibly turn a .300 blackout rifle into a modernised De Lisle. Not sure who to ask about that, since I'm British and it is expressly forbidden for us to talk about it, despite fighting in two world wars for a total of ten years.

I think anything electronic is considered a machine gun in the US sadly, as you could just slightly change the electronics so the switch would "loop".
You can buy a Tippmann .22lr or 9mm Gatling gun without any special stuff, but if you simply replace the crank handle with an electric drill your dog and family will be immediately slaughtered.

That said, that'd be fucking sick. By running a bolt slower but with more force behind it you'd have a far quieter gun and probably be able to make it much lighter. Instead of relying on inertia and therefore weight, you could just have electronic bolt lugs or something. You'd probably get comparable ROF to a regular semi, but be able to reduce blow back on theost aggressive of cans, allowing you the quietest setup without requiring wipes.

This would be a top notch setup for a .22, as you'd be unlikely to actually be relying on the thing and people would be more accepting of it.

 

[Doctor Love]

That said, that'd be fucking sick. By running a bolt slower but with more force behind it you'd have a far quieter gun and probably be able to make it much lighter. Instead of relying on inertia and therefore weight, you could just have electronic bolt lugs or something. You'd probably get comparable ROF to a regular semi, but be able to reduce blow back on theost aggressive of cans, allowing you the quietest setup without requiring wipes.

Literally exactly that - there would have to be a preset timer, but honestly, even if you set it to semi-auto you could just make sure that the cycle delays by ~100ms and then triggers. It gives the gas time to spread throughout the "can" so it doesn't bust out the back as soon as you open it - then, you can just rely on the surface area of a "metal sponge" can to keep the gas cool enough.

From what I see, the cooling of the gas has a much bigger effect in those "sponge" builds, compared to the turbulence of the old ones. But literally anything that can contain the gas and convect enough heat would have a huge impact.

9mm or .45 would be the "norm" for it - subsonic 9mm carbine with the solonoid. For a gas-operated kind of setup, it would be a standard solenoid valve which is attached to the trigger - so that the gas-operation doesn't "kick in" until a set time after the trigger is pulled. It would let the majority of the gas vent elsewhere - or a "breaker" valve, so a pressure valve which opens under a specific pressure.

In both cases, the most energetic part of the expansion is kept within a specific area - there's a bunch of odd ways you can quieten a gun, but the solenoid-moderated "De Lisle-Style" carbine is the simplest and easiest to test. Close off the bolt action with a solid piece of metal, then delay that with the solenoid instead of a normal bolt. It could even be pretty far back without affecting anything, built into the stock in the same way the L1A1/SLR used a gigantic fuck-off spring in the stock.

 

[SHIGGSHOGG]

@Doctor Love I've found that a "two stage" can is the absolute best for maximum quietness, but is usually too long to be practical on factory guns.
In the case of a DeLisle type integral it'd be very worthwhile as you need very little barrel for 9 or 45, and with .300 you'd still have a decent amount of space.
Essentially you'd want a super tight and aggressive K or M baffle first stage to slow and "break" the gas, with probably a steel/brass wool or a metal sponge stage beyond that for cooling and absorbing. It may not even do anything if everything went well, but you could even add a wipe to that if you so desired. Also, idk if it's possible, but I feel like silver or may make a great baffle or mesh/sponge as they're so conductive, so they may suck up heat faster.

As for calibers, 9, 45, and 300 are fine, but I'd instead look at 8.6 BLK, .338 Spectre, or a custom loaded
.350 legend with heavier bullets.
The .338 Federal is basically a subsonic-only 8.6K BLK which fires the same bullets from a necked 10mm case, from an AR-15 sized or smaller magazine. .350 legend is a somewhat new and pretty popular hunting cartridge in the US that's basically just a straight walled
5.56, but I can't really find bullets heavier than 180gr. If you paired that with some 1/5 or 1/3 rifling I'm sure that 400gr bullets would be quite doable, and would offer some serious fucking power while being super quiet.
A 400gr going 950 is 800FPE, and I think .338 Spectre is about 600FPE, and with either machined copper or lead cored mega hollow points you'd be able to do some gnarly damage.

At some point when I've got more disposable funds, I'll have to get reloading gear and get into wildcats/semi wildcat chamberings, like ultra fast twist .350 legend to put in an integral Ruger bolt gun or something. Currently saving all my brass like a good American for the time being....