GPUs & CPUs & Enthusiast hardware: Questions, Discussion and fanboy slap-fights - Nvidia & AMD & Intel - Separe but Equal. Intel rides in the back of the bus.

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Susanna said:
It works just fine with both AMD and Nvidia GPUs, I use it myself. All you need is a motherboard that supports it, which most should because as far as I can tell it's implemented in the AGESA/IME, and of course a CPU with an integrated GPU (non-K Intels, all AMD Gs, or AMD zen4/zen5.
Go into your BIOS and look for a setting called something like "HybridGraphics", set it to True. It'll work the same way graphics on laptops work, default output is handled by the iGPU but specific tasks, like games, will use the dGPU. With most games this is automatic, but some older titles require you to set an environment variable. I've no idea how you'd do that on Windows, but on Linux it's as simple as adding DRI_PRIME=PCIe address of the GPU you want to use in front of the launch command of the game. Like on Steam I put "DRI_PRIME=pci-0000_01_00_0 %command%" as the launch argument for games that won't use the dGPU automatically.
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Ah nice to know! thank you.
 
CaptainAutism69 said:
GIGABYTE X670E AORUS MASTER
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You probably don't need something top of the line. I also personally have had poor experiences with Gigabyte motherboards and would suggest you give consideration to ASRock or Asus. My problems with Gigabyte are mainly around poor motherboard design, laying things out in stupid ways and the terrible BIOS that won't even tell you why it has decided to reset itself. Nothing too major at least but enough to make me reconsider buying from them again.
CaptainAutism69 said:
DeepCool AK620 Digital White
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DeepCool got sanctioned by the US for some retarded reason so you may have issues getting the part if you're in the US.
CaptainAutism69 said:
EVGA 850 GQ Power Supply
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EVGA is having serious business issues and may not be around much longer since they stopped producing graphics cards. They recently got in trouble when a customer RMA'd their PSU and were provided with a replacement that had a different pinout for the modular SATA connector which then fried his hard drives. EVGA shirked off responsibility until the issue became public and only offered to replace the affected drives and pay for data recovery after that.
 
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macrodegenerate said:
My first from scratch build was on a ASRock Z170M extreme4 I plucked out of a microcenter clearance bin. Things still running today. I would recommend ASRock.
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I've used ASrock for years in builds without issue. That's why I was surprised to hear that news that they were somehow worse off than gigabyte. I'll believe it when I see my board blow up tbh.
 
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Asrock consumer boards work fine in general.

Notice how even in the thread linked asrock has the 2nd highest rma rate but the lowest rate of defects. People rma shit for no reason sometimes. Actually, the mainstream names are all the same. Its almost as if mobo quality has largely evened out and it doesn't really matter outside of specific outliers and of course bias towards brands people have always used.

Ive used just about every mainstream brand, nothing has stood out to me.
 
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Horrible Ryzen 9 9950X inter-CCD latency which is more than twice vs Ryzen 9 7950X is reportedly getting fixed
In its Zen 5 analysis, Anandtech found that the inter-CCD latency in the Ryzen 9 9950X seems to be around 180 ns whereas the latency was just 76 ns on the Ryzen 9 7950X. This increase was explainable only through buggy software as the Ryzen 9 9950X features the same I/O die and Infinity Fabric as the Zen 4 chips.

Additionally, Ryan Smith of Anandtech reported on X that even on Linux with the high-performance mode enabled, there wasn’t a single case where the Ryzen 9 9950X had similar inter-CCD latency to the Ryzen 9 7950X. So, the issue isn’t exclusive to Windows.

According to Geekerwan on bilibili (via @9550pro on X), AMD is going to resolve the Zen 5 CCD-to-CCD latency issue. The fix will not come in the form of new hardware steppings but a BIOS update. This suggests that AMD did indeed launch the Ryzen 9000 before the software was fully baked.
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Another day, another piece of evidence.
 
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Finally got my new rig up and running...fuck Logitech for removing dongles from their mice, meaning I had to update everything using keyboard shortcuts until shit started working.
 
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I'm strongly left-handed so lots of mice aren't ergonomic for me. I haven't bought a logitech device in a while but my experiences were always good and in battery use, logitech is king. Enter the M650 L. I wanted to see what a handshape-adapted mouse feels like. What a piece of shit. After two weeks, the feet fell off. after six, the rubber coating started to discolor. Constant problems with the mouse wheel or the sensor catching onto some random debris and getting stuck. How do you fuck up a mouse this badly? Also not-nice feeling plastic that got shiny very quickly. (and yes I know how the last points sound, but I assure you, I am very clean. Food for example also isn't allowed near the computer)

Back to my old $10 USB Cherry Mouse. It just works.

(Besides that mouse, I am also using a Kensington Expert Trackball and can only strongly recommend it)
 
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I bought myself a good mouse a couple years ago after using shitty cheap ones that were mostly fine and it's night and day different. Don't know why I was so cheap before. Only issue is that I have large hands and most mice are designed apparently for dainty and delicate geishas to operate, (previously) resulting in awful claw like grips at times.
 
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My most recent mouse is my first wireless one, went with a Zowie EC1-CW. It's a decent size for my hands, but something the size of thumb trackballs with a normal bottom-facing sensor would be cool. Starting to notice that what impacts my mouse movements the most when playing at low sensitivities is the bottom of my palm.
 
What are the best parts for a budget $500-600 PC? My friend is willing to get a new PC but does not have enough dosh to get good parts and is forced to scrape by.

CPU - Ryzen 5 5500
GPU - RTX 2060
PSU - Corsair CX550
MOBO - Used MSI B450M
RAM - G.Skill Ripjaws V 2x8 16GB 3200MHz
SSD - Kingston M.2 1TB
Case - Coolman Harley

So far my ideas are to replace the 2060 with a refurbished 2080ti and get a Peerless Assassin 120 for the cooler. What other ideas you think I can give for a friend?
 
Betonhaus said:
what's the best way to get a good price for 12-16tb hard drives? later this year I plan to rebuild my server (and probably cave and use sata instead of SAS) and as of right now I need about 25tb of storage space but that amount is steadily growing. or should I just use 8tb drives?
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I bought refurbished 16tb drives earlier this year here for my NAS: https://serverpartdeals.com/
None if them have failed and I'm using a zfs raid z2 for extra parity.
 
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WULULULULU said:
What are the best parts for a budget $500-600 PC? My friend is willing to get a new PC but does not have enough dosh to get good parts and is forced to scrape by.

CPU - Ryzen 5 5500
GPU - RTX 2060
PSU - Corsair CX550
MOBO - Used MSI B450M
RAM - G.Skill Ripjaws V 2x8 16GB 3200MHz
SSD - Kingston M.2 1TB
Case - Coolman Harley

So far my ideas are to replace the 2060 with a refurbished 2080ti and get a Peerless Assassin 120 for the cooler. What other ideas you think I can give for a friend?
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What's your estimated price of the individual parts in that list?
 
Any good SSD suggestions that'll last? Is Samsung still the go-to brand for NVME's over a terabyte? I think my cheap old Silicon Power NVME is faulty.
 
The Backwards Man said:
Any good SSD suggestions that'll last? Is Samsung still the go-to brand for NVME's over a terabyte? I think my cheap old Silicon Power NVME is faulty.
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I've got three WD SN850 2TBs in my workstation, they've been perfectly reliable since I got them, which IIRC was 2020.
 
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