"I reasonably want to make smokeless powders (and primers) myself, also in a STHF situation"
>There are NO known ways to safely manufacture such propellants and especially the primers, even if you don't give a shit about the law, because the logistical and technical overhead will kill you
"YEAH WELL THERE MUST BE SOME WAY OR SOMETHING
>I've listed out in detail what the problems are for you, what kind of equipment and space and safety measures you need, and it should be obvious that without million dollar budgets for specialized equipment, a mastery of chemical engineering to use it, land for your blast bunkers that dry and age the product, and supply lines of chemicals that WILL NOT EXIST in a STHF situation, you either won't get off the ground, or will blow your face off
"Post news articles of people getting face lifts and carpel tunnel removal or I won't believe you"
OK then.
Also, I DID say black powder was a good idea. A great one, even. I even discussed electric ignition if you didn't want to lean on caps (might be hard to make in SHTF), flintlock, or matchlock!
"Niggers who refuse to accept no get shit done"
I don’t deny that, in theory, a DIY propellant (or even primers)
could be made safe and proof-tested.
The problem is that the path from “gram scale and ice bath” to “reliable nitrogen-based propellant” is a stinkditch full of ways to kill yourself. Fuck it, let's go ditch-diving!
- Residual acid stuck in voids or fibers fucks you extremely fucking hard. Sulfuric or Nitric acid eats the ester, makes heat and NOx, runaway autocalysis -> you get Sig Sauered.
- pH fuckups BEYOND the above can fuck with metal casings. Cu/Zn in brass casings catalyze below a pH of 6.5.
- The outside can read dry even if the core is over 60C and exothermic. Vapors + Hotspots =
- Grain pores/micro voids can create deflagration to detonation transitions that are also less than 41% safe.
- Uneven moisture changes burn rate, splitting casings or giving you facial piercings
- Wrong plasticizer or bad plasticizer distribution? Pick something from above and enjoy your facial.
- Stabilizer done wrong? Self oxidizing in storage, pressure builds, fun times.
- Particle size correct, and consistent enough? Look carefully at the propellant grains you can buy bulk for home loads. Little tubes.
- Rolling, cutting, or pressing dry propellant can raise impact sensitivity.
- Propellant dust in the air is flammable. Home vent hoods can sometimes pull that right through motors. People who don't have one get facials.
- Off gassing propellant can attack things it's stored in.
- If you want to do just straight guncotton, you still need to have an overabundance of water, tons of sulfuric acid, some kind of alkaline wash/dip, ways to wet-pulverize, filter, and some way to press to ~150-300MPa to remove air pockets. YOU DO NOT WANT DETONATION
- Unplasticized guncotton that isn't kept wet can blow up pretty fucking easily. So, you have to make colloid or plasticize or whatever.
Walter White could do this with seven-figure budgets and a clandestine plant. You, post-SHTF or otherwise, cannot
Cap-and-ball revolvers are going to work as long as we have primers, and black powder long guns can work without.
I'm going to recommend air guns for as long as you can replace the seals. Lewis and Clark carried Girardoni air rifles, Austrian sharpshooters did from 1787 to 1806, and you can see people take hogs with modern ones. These are so stupidly slept on but whatever,
and they go back to the late 16th century.
Bows, cross or otherwise, are no joke, and are always worth learning to use.
But what the fuck do I know? People who likely don't even grasp the primary synthesis, never mind washing and neutralization, pressing, stabilization, proof testing, etc, think they can just make a 1:1 replacement for propellant.
If anyone wants to try, stream it, please
