Mega Rad Gun Thread

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Then yes, I've heard anecdotal reports that it can be a problem. However, I'm 98% sure there's a company that will weld in a short length of steel pin to close up that little barrel hole for like $75. Problem is I don't remember the name of the company.
Jagerwerks is probably who you're thinking of.

Anyone know if the red dot is mounted sufficiently back (enough to erase the rear sight dovetail) if this helps? I also heard Calculated Kinetics makes an optic mounting plate that helps mitigate this issue.
 
Looks neat. I do appreciate a good HK. Any thoughts on the p30 you suggest vs a usp? Thanks for the recommendation!

Both are going to be comparable in performance, accuracy, and reliability. The P30 basically builds from the USP and makes it much more modern and ergonomic. You have a LOT more options with the P30 as far as configuration for size, barrel length, and control layout. You'll also have a much easier time mounting lights and optics on the P30 since you can get them with RMR cuts and they have a Picatinny rail, while the USP has a proprietary rail that you would either have to buy an adapter to mount modern lights which will be heavy and potentially questionable quality depending on where you buy it from, or try to find one of the obsolete discontinued lights second hand that will have nowhere near the power of a modern light. So unless you absolutely have your heart set on getting a USP because of nostalgia or something, you would be better served getting the P30 for a modern self defense pistol. And I say all this as a huge fan of HK in general, but the Mark 23 and USP series in particular. I love my Mark 23 and have no regrets getting it, especially now that I have a suppressor for it.
 
but the Mark 23 and USP series in particular. I love my Mark 23 and have no regrets getting it, especially now that I have a suppressor for it.
Great info, thank you. Mk23 w/ suppressor is definitely on the list of things to acquire eventually. I do have the hk nostalgia of the usp .45 tac from MW2 (but i wont let nostalgia get in the way of tech/materials/... advancement.) Im not sure if I have any matches/comps/uspsa near me but have thought about trying out in those scenarios so the info on accesorizing the p30 vs the usp is nice.
 
Let's just keep our fingers off the trigger and outside the trigger guard until we are actually ready to shoot.
NDs are part of owning guns and you should get used to them.
going to budsgunshop monday. got money burning a hole in my pocket. Whether i buy anything or not IDK, but will update.
Obligatory:
I don't actually have an opinion or any personal experience with Buds, I just think this is a funny video.
 
Buds also like to take peoples orders for guns, but when the guns come in they go up on an auction site so they can gouge more money from people.
Buds and Gunbroker have done irreparable damage to the used gun market. The shill bidding is insane but they'll never fix it because they get a cut either way. Gunbroker has managed to fuck me IRL at multiple gun shows and local gun stores. I'll ask how much something is only for the seller to pull up Gunbroker and regurgitate the price of the first search result.

Oh yeah doesn't matter that that item has been relisted for multiple years at an insane buy now price, that's what we're going with cause otherwise we're leaving money on the table. Piece of shit last ditch Arisaka? Uhhhh I just looked it up on Fudbroker and the first couple results say its worth $600.
 
NDs are part of owning guns and you should get used to them.

Obligatory:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=OBiLRKw7QP4I don't actually have an opinion or any personal experience with Buds, I just think this is a funny video.
Fuck I need that green text from /k/ about ND's it's hilarious dude talks about his 11+ NDs in a year one of them "I thought ghosts but pulled the trigger"

Few dollary doos on the way want to waste on gun things. I'm actually thinking trying a home blue or other finish project on something I deem expendable worse case the extra cash I can send to a pro to un fuck.
 
Fuck I need that green text from /k/ about ND's it's hilarious dude talks about his 11+ NDs in a year one of them "I thought ghosts but pulled the trigger"
It's been posted a few times and, predictably, it pissed off a lot of people even here
I'm actually thinking trying a home blue or other finish project on something I deem expendable worse case the extra cash I can send to a pro to un fuck.
Just buy a throwaway .22 rifle for a Benjamin and go to town as an experiment.
 
I tried buying those 89 dollar 10/22 clones from PSA but they ran out... Not sure if I should cop a cheap 22 or those dirt cheap knock off Stevens that eat a 3" just to practice...

Or I'll just do it to my beater hi point because one day I'll get drunk enough to white castle or amazon logo wrap for the lulz.

Edit: NDs are part of gun ownership, Mike Vinning told me as he ND'd into my knee. It was the greatest day of my life.
 
Fuck I need that green text from /k/ about ND's it's hilarious dude talks about his 11+ NDs in a year one of them "I thought ghosts but pulled the trigger"

Few dollary doos on the way want to waste on gun things. I'm actually thinking trying a home blue or other finish project on something I deem expendable worse case the extra cash I can send to a pro to un fuck.
Cold bluing is pretty easy. You can get cold bluing kits for about $30. I re-did an entire 870 before. Rust bluing is pretty easy too. You just need a stainless steel container large enough to hold whatever you're doing. You can make your own rust solution from peroxide + vinegar + slat or buy it for about $30. Pistols just need a Walmart cooking pot, rifles can be done with bar speed rails if you're really cheap but you can get ready made gun tanks for about $200 on ebay. I've been able to fit battle rifles in mine.

Parkerizing is fun too. I get my phosphate solution from MG34 (formerly Allegheny Arsenal) for about 50$. It looks best if you prep via sandblast but you can do it by hand sanding too. I've done a couple of G3's that way, all the AK's I do are paint over park.

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Chinese shotgun (JTS-m12AK) that I did a trunnion splice on. Welded on an ACE adapter. Paint over Parkerizing. OG finish was this horrible patchy bluing job.

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G3 parts kit that I parkerized. Left the trigger pack housing with the OG finish. As long as you take your time with prep work you can get really nice results
 
Obligatory:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=OBiLRKw7QP4I don't actually have an opinion or any personal experience with Buds, I just think this is a funny video.
Buds also like to take peoples orders for guns, but when the guns come in they go up on an auction site so they can gouge more money from people.
I've not had any problems with them. All i've bought from them online has been a Ruger MkIV and a Python. rest of my guns from them I've bought in person at the Lexington store.
 
Star Z70 and 9A-91 (with an aftermarket grip?)
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TKB-486 9x18 submachinegun, by Igor Stetchkin
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Self Described "Dual Suppressed" .300 Blackout ( I know for a fact I've posted the gas block before without knowing the full context of what it was)
This is an early prototype
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Barrel nut is a repurposed Odin Works one that works with their handguards
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Attention all Century AK buyers, please report for reception of your Fell For it Again Awards



Some French guntuber got to go to FN's facility in Belgium and got to shoot the Evolys amongst other things

Questions/Ideas

Does the recuperator mechanism in the MG-42 keep the Barrel constantly under tension or is the barrel free/"floating" until rearward travel alongside the bolt after firing at which point the recuperator does it's job and pushes it forwards again. I assume that my question is the truth I just wanted to confirm

An Idea I had regarding theoretical Non-gaseous suppressors for captive piston firearms

Suppresors function via the controlled expansion and thus cooling of powder gases produced as a result of propellant combustion.
Captive piston ammunition for captive piston firearms functions as follows
1. Primer is struck
2. Propellant ignites
3. Propellant gases push piston forward
4. Forward travel of the piston moves the projectile (or in the case of the American QSPR, Projectiles) forward along with it
5. The piston reaches the end of it's travel, forming a gas seal with the mouth of the case while the projectile continues down the barrel

There are 3-(4? More on that in a minute) causes of noise relating to gunfire
1. Action Noise
2. Muzzle blast
3. Supersonic cracks
4*. Friction induced noise between the projectile/barrel? (Would this be considered action noise/even be detectable with advanced audio equipment?)

Captive Piston ammunition only has to (if designed/manufactured correctly and shot in the right environmental conditions) deal with factor #1, Action Noise. Both noise relating to the actual firing mechanism of the gun and the piston violently slamming into the case mouth in order to form a gas seal.

The most prominent captive piston ammunition examples have all been pistols (there have been some attempts at rifles but they were much less successful). Pistols were the main focus amongst Russian developers due to their potential for use amongst Intelligence and Military organizations

But what if (this is going to be a relevant side tangent) you took what I view to be the logical next step in evolution and created a captive piston sub machine gun. Imagine, an MP-5SD the size of a Sig Canebrake or similarly sized mini PCC/SMG. No baffles, no wipes, no large forward protrusion of a suppressor, lighter, probably less concerns with heat, you have a stock, optics mounting capability.

You could also do a Magnum/Maybe even whatever .50 BMG actions are referred to as bolt action firing 500 grain hyper aerodynamic steel/copper bodied tungsten core slugs at subsonic velocities.

Anyway back to my vaguely formed idea of Non-gaseous suppressors. Humans have for some time now understood how to dampen sound emissions, what if you were to build some kind of device, integral to or an optional attachment to the barrel/receiver of a modern, optimized captive piston weapon. Said device would have an exterior made out of the metal of one's choice (Aluminum might be good as there are no heat or pressure concerns) and filled it in various styles and ways (maybe even making "baffle" arrays) with some kind of advanced sound dampening material with the sole purpose of dampening sound emissions produced via the actions function/piston slamming into the case mouth. If enacted alongside other steps such as determining the quietest action (hammer fired whether conventional or linear, striker fired etc), coating/encasing parts of the FCG in rubber/neoprene (the strike face of the hammer, for example), maybe even going so far as to experimenting with minimal noise recoil spring mechanisms etc I don't think it would be impossible to squeeze out another 1-5db of performance.

Suppressors for Electric airsoft guns even have a limited effect on noise even they have no air or gas to work with so my Idea can't be that far out.
 
I've not had any problems with them. All i've bought from them online has been a Ruger MkIV and a Python. rest of my guns from them I've bought in person at the Lexington store.
I bought a PX4 Storm from buds that was listed as a D-Type but turned out to be a C-Type.
They look the same from the outside but the "D" is DAO and the "C" is some weird in-between half cock & SAO.
 
The evolution and modification of a Bufferless .300 Blackout


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One rail is ground off, another is attached
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Reddit won't allow me to download the firing video so here's a direct link

Same Lower with an FM-15 upper
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The drum is a plastic shell that clamps around a normal mag
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Water cooled upper a guy on Arfcom built nearly 20 years ago
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Muzzle end
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Gas Block and tube sealed with 1200 degree silver solder
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Freefloat barrel nut sealed with silicone, A custom nut is threaded onto the barrel nut and four bolts secure it into place from the rear of the water reservoir
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The gas port had to be opened up because the water cooled the gas. Off gun water supply/deposit consists of 2 5 gallon buckets. The only reason the reservoir is as big as it is, is because the builder insisted on leaving the FSB intact and not using a Lo-pro gas block.

"started with a brand new Bushmaster 20" chromed lined fluted barrel, A2 upper without the rear sight. There aren't any rear sights installed because the water jacket is high enough to completely inclose the front sight base. The gas tube has been sealed with 1,200 degree silver solder. The barrel is enclosed in a very heavy walled aluminum tube water jacket that is black hard coat anodized. The water jacket holds a little more than a gallon and half of water. The water jacket mounts onto the threaded muzzle of the barrel and is held in place by an A1 flash hider. The rear of the water jacket mounts to a free float barrel nut. The operation of the upper is the direct gas system. All screws are tapered flush mounted allen head. The water jacket cold water supply comes in at the bottom of the chamber end and exits near the top at the muzzle end of the water jacket. The supply hoses are 3/8" braided fuel line, so they won't collapse, with fine stainless screen and brass one-way valve at the inlet. Both the inlet and outlet hoses have brass 3/8" quick disconnects for ease of set up. There is also a 1/2" plugged pipe fitting at the top on the muzzle end to facilitate quick filling of the water jacket. Water is circulated by using an in-line squeeze bulb."

At some point the guy rigged up a similar system with a Ciener/Valkyrie belt fed upper

He also built another example with an MGI Hydra lower in 7.62x39

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While gathering up the images for this segment I came across a comment on Arfcom In a thread relating to Water cooled AR uppers that said the following
"There was a dude who posted his as a precision/accuracy upgrade. He got roasted pretty hard. Rectangular sci to looking". Posted 8/6/21. Does anyone have any idea specific upper this is referring to.

I'll say on thing, a Lima Six with a
-Cooling set up like above
-FRT/SS
-IR laser
-Mounted on a robotic turret
-With some kind of IVAS style HUD mounted to NVG's (which the turret is slaved to) with some kind of either blink recognition firing or some kind of haptic glove mounted on the front of a Quad
Against an entire sounder of hogs on open terrain wide would be a sight to behold.

Either that or an sheet metal larp box with thermals mounted on a truck bed.
 

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Does the recuperator mechanism in the MG-42 keep the Barrel constantly under tension or is the barrel free/"floating" until rearward travel alongside the bolt after firing at which point the recuperator does it's job and pushes it forwards again. I assume that my question is the truth I just wanted to confirm
the barrel is under slight forward tension from the recuperator piston resting against it but this isn't really enough to mean anything - it's basically finger pressure and can be felt if you remove the recoil booster and bolt rollers, unlock the barrel, and observe that the barrel is slightly forward of its resting position with the trunnion. you cam move it into position slightly by hand, but it'll spring forward again by a mm or so. the recuperator only functions to retard and separate the bolt assembly from the barrel after the locked assembly has traveled rearwards enough to allow the rollers to unlock and begin extraction - it is during this short travel distance (about 8mm) that the recuperator piston/spring is compressed. the bolt assembly continues rearward against the recoil spring while the barrel is pushed forward by the recuperator to prepare for the next firing cycle.
 
the barrel is under slight forward tension from the recuperator piston resting against it but this isn't really enough to mean anything - it's basically finger pressure and can be felt if you remove the recoil booster and bolt rollers, unlock the barrel, and observe that the barrel is slightly forward of its resting position with the trunnion. you cam move it into position slightly by hand, but it'll spring forward again by a mm or so. the recuperator only functions to retard and separate the bolt assembly from the barrel after the locked assembly has traveled rearwards enough to allow the rollers to unlock and begin extraction - it is during this short travel distance (about 8mm) that the recuperator piston/spring is compressed. the bolt assembly continues rearward against the recoil spring while the barrel is pushed forward by the recuperator to prepare for the next firing cycle.
Thanks, I thought as much (didn't really word my question all that well)

I'm slightly embarrassed to admit that for a couple months now I had been wracking my brain watching CAD animations and obsessively watching Forgotten Weapons videos on the 42/3 trying to figure out what made the barrel move forward before the bolt came back into the firing position and it wasn't until last night that I literally searched up "What pushes the MG-42 barrel forwards again after cycling" and I was presented with a two word answer "The Recuperator" I was so fucking mad. And now of course I see it in every CAD animation. In my defense it's a little hard to see based on the perspective they're filmed at, it's a little hard to see something in the lower left corner of the receiver when the view is from the right.
 
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