Mega Rad Gun Thread

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That's a beauty. I see you have a real A2 type lower not just a carry handle that goes on a rail. Love the look!

View attachment 2684943

This is the last one I built, nothing specially really, a beater rifle basically and kind of a mongrel with different stuff from different eras but she's a good shooter and I like her. You can see the flashlight here. If you want to get one of these clamps be careful a lot of them are bad quality and/or are just for shotguns (I have one on my mossberg) but claim to fit rifles too. This is the one I'm using here, cheap Chinese shit but works just fine for me.
Upper and barrel assembly is from an actual FN M16A2 (coast guard surplus IIRC). Lower is a replica (though still metal) and the lower parts are from an AR parts kit. I'm not sure if an authentic A2 lower is legal without a class 3 because of the weird way the ATF handles gun classification?
 
I'm not sure if an authentic A2 lower is legal without a class 3 because of the weird way the ATF handles gun classification?
If made for selective fire it'd be a class III item but I think a reasonable number are in circulation although they'd run you tens of thousands of dollars last time I checked. We can dream.
 
So how did folks attach flashlights or those dual laser light combos to this type of handguard or I am confusing them with the picatinny rail with those rail covers added on.
Something like this is what I was talking about, it clamps down on the barrel and I put it right next to the bayonet lug for some extra stability. It's held up fine for a couple hundred rounds so far at least. Theoretically its probably not the best thing for accuracy but I'm not doing that teir of shooting with this rifle anyway
either a clamp similar to the photo, a "gangster grip" from KAC (very old school) or using a bolt-on weaver rail/dovetail through the handguard's venting holes. companies like surefire (and others) also made outright replacement handguards and Diemaco, Colt, Wilcox, and others made modifications for the front sight base to have an attachment point(s) of some kind.

I'm not sure if an authentic A2 lower is legal without a class 3 because of the weird way the ATF handles gun classification?
a genuine M16A2 lower is usually (not always) a machinegun as it meets the definition of readily convertible or already functional as a machinegun. the general definition is if the part functions, with the single action of a trigger to fire more than once; or can be readily converted to do so. some very early M16A2 (Colt model R6521 for example were sometimes marked M16A2 rather than AR-15A2) lowers were never manufactured as machineguns as they were meant for export and the manufacturing contract didn't include the feature, these are extremely rare though.

also "class 3" is not a thing, it is a misunderstanding of the FFL and SOT classifications for business licenses. a "title 1" or "NFA" item is more correct.
 
a genuine M16A2 lower is usually (not always) a machinegun as it meets the definition of readily convertible or already functional as a machinegun. the general definition is if the part functions, with the single action of a trigger to fire more than once; or can be readily converted to do so. some very early M16A2 (Colt model R6521 for example were sometimes marked M16A2 rather than AR-15A2) lowers were never manufactured as machineguns as they were meant for export and the manufacturing contract didn't include the feature, these are extremely rare though.
Was thinking of a stripped lower. But from what I understand since the lower is serialized an A2 lower would be considered a machinegun since it was manufactured as one, even with a semi-auto trigger group?
also "class 3" is not a thing, it is a misunderstanding of the FFL and SOT classifications for business licenses.
Huh, good to know. Don't have the 35K to drop on an automatic anyway so I never really looked into the laws behind it. I always assumed you needed some sort of special license or something to own one.
 
View attachment 2684838
(Pic not mine)

Does anyone else strongly prefer the the A2 style handguards? I feel like the way I can grasp it even makes me shoot better. Granted I lose out on the ability to put bells and whistles on but all I really want is a flashlight for coyotes or home intruders.
They definitely help with bayonet & buttstroke drills goddamn that sounded gay.

But in all seriousness, if I'm taking a rifle outside for hard training or competition, having a shitload of exposed rail (even with grip panels) does nothing but collect dirt, debris, and probably get damaged/lost. The A2 just gets it right.
Something like this is what I was talking about, it clamps down on the barrel and I put it right next to the bayonet lug for some extra stability. It's held up fine for a couple hundred rounds so far at least. Theoretically its probably not the best thing for accuracy but I'm not doing that teir of shooting with this rifle anyway

View attachment 2685007
I had an older friend who's prized possession was a legit prison Mini-14, and he mounted a flashlight with something like this. Anyways, I remember him telling me that clamping things to the barrel is fine; just make sure they're not flush against another component (gas/sight block, handguard, etc), to tighten the clamp halfway between them, and to use loctite.

I've tested similar on a truck SKS, and as long as I use loctite, never had anything come loose during rough handling & riding.
 
Was thinking of a stripped lower. But from what I understand since the lower is serialized an A2 lower would be considered a machinegun since it was manufactured as one, even with a semi-auto trigger group?
once a machinegun, always a machinegun, with or without the parts, as it is "readily converted", generally speaking. if you want the marking, you can buy a Colt AR-15A2 or one of the commercial export models and i doubt most would care much. for extra autism, you can buy a "stealth" AR-15 lower from PSA or someone that has discreet markings and have it engraved as you see fit and refinished.

example:
1.jpg
 
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They definitely help with bayonet & buttstroke drills goddamn that sounded gay.

But in all seriousness, if I'm taking a rifle outside for hard training or competition, having a shitload of exposed rail (even with grip panels) does nothing but collect dirt, debris, and probably get damaged/lost. The A2 just gets it right.
I’ve always been partial to the A1 furniture, and honestly the A1 in general. The plastic tech just wasn’t quite there for durability, but the ergonomics were far superior for a combat and general purpose rifle.
 
I’ve gotten good use out of this one, $22 at Harbor Freight. Unclamp it and stow it under my workbench when I’m done.


View attachment 2676827
Well I failed at removing the muzzle even buying that exact item in your screencap.

I bought another one from another hardware store and had the upper clamped between both.

It still would not come off. Whoever made this gun, did a real good job at torquing the thing hard.

Well I will follow the instructions for the new muzzle brake packaging, which just states lol, take it to the gunsmith.
 
You may be able to heat up the muzzle brake to get it to break loose - supposedly it will expand a bit, maybe get the threads to loosen up. I’ve never had much luck doing that, always ended up grinding them off.
 
You may be able to heat up the muzzle brake to get it to break loose - supposedly it will expand a bit, maybe get the threads to loosen up. I’ve never had much luck doing that, always ended up grinding them off.
What I noticed as I tried to twist it off with a wrench, that the it was making the vises move to the point, I feared that the vises would break before the barrel probably gets marred up or gets bent. So far the barrel looks straight though I will make some gunsmith make sure the barrel isn't fucked.
 
What I noticed as I tried to twist it off with a wrench, that the it was making the vises move to the point, I feared that the vises would break before the barrel probably gets marred up or gets bent. So far the barrel looks straight though I will make some gunsmith make sure the barrel isn't fucked.
I've run across AR barrels that are LH threaded, instead of RH. But I assume you've tried spinning it both ways....
 
What I noticed as I tried to twist it off with a wrench, that the it was making the vises move to the point, I feared that the vises would break before the barrel probably gets marred up or gets bent. So far the barrel looks straight though I will make some gunsmith make sure the barrel isn't fucked.
that's pretty intense. is it a barrel from the mid 90's? look really carefully with different light all around the flash hider. some "pin and weld" muzzle devices were done and dressed extremely well to the point that after finishing the barrel they were not really possible to feel or spot. this is why you notice barrel services for pin and weld jobs note it is "obviously marked". torque on a removable A2 flash hider is only around 15-20ft lbs per spec, and absolutely not more than 30 ft lbs unless it's a particular muzzle brake or something with special port that might loosen it.

some AR barrel, as mentioned by @Pocket Dragoon , are left hand threaded to match with certain suppressors on the market that use LH threads. if all else fails and you are resorting to extreme effort to the point where you might damage something, a smith will usually not charge much to remove a muzzle device, even a pinned one, since it can be easily drilled or machined off in one or two operations at most. as a courtesy, also have it installed by the smith, since that will usually include removing the old hider anyway.
 
they were pretty popular on lever-action backpack rifles and automatic shotguns, think along the lines of a guide gun. a short Marlin .45-70 Gov. or an Remington 1100. i've also seen some Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30's with them with their folding stock.
In my head it would sit proudly on top of a TacStar'd pump action. Feels appropriate.

Something like this but without the saddle.
FBCF87AD-A439-4BA5-A051-815B77CCDFFE.jpeg
 
Alright friends, so I don't shit up the Rittenhouse thread much anymore I need some suggestions for an AIWB holster for a G43X. The Raven is out because they only support 17 and 19. I have a Stealthgear I use for 5 o'clock which is comfy as hell so I may just go Stealthgear again for AIWB. Any other suggestions to check out?

Edit: I ended up buying a Stealthgear scorpion holster... I just hope it rides high enough
 
Alright friends, so I don't shit up the Rittenhouse thread much anymore I need some suggestions for an AIWB holster for a G43X. The Raven is out because they only support 17 and 19. I have a Stealthgear I use for 5 o'clock which is comfy as hell so I may just go Stealthgear again for AIWB. Any other suggestions to check out?

Edit: I ended up buying a Stealthgear scorpion holster... I just hope it rides high enough
I have a Safariland Model 27 and a Dara Holsters AIWB. Both are optics ready.
 
Alright friends, so I don't shit up the Rittenhouse thread much anymore I need some suggestions for an AIWB holster for a G43X. The Raven is out because they only support 17 and 19. I have a Stealthgear I use for 5 o'clock which is comfy as hell so I may just go Stealthgear again for AIWB. Any other suggestions to check out?

Edit: I ended up buying a Stealthgear scorpion holster... I just hope it rides high enough
I see that you already bought one, but I've been happy with my AlienGear ShapeShift setup for my Sig P365XL, which offers IWB, AIWB and OWB belt and paddle options. They have the same rig for the 43X, but if you don't want to spend quite that much, you can get just the AIWB option for about half the cost. I've found it to be plenty comfortable and like having all of the options that just use the same shell.
 
Here's my poverty pony rifle and handgun. I've had it since 2019 but I've always struggled shooting my rifle for some reason. It's either my trigger control or that I don't fully trust it but it's zero seems to change constantly. Any suggestions on how to fix that?View attachment 2700737
Let me take a stab at it:

Replace the trigger guard with those v shaped stuff.

Replace the handguard with something from Magpul.

Replace the stock with a Magpul MOE stock with soul or the soulless CTR version.

Replace the redpot with an Aimpoint Pro or go big and buy a Trijicon ACOG.

Replace the charging handle with some ambi stuff from Radian or BCM.

Replace the safety with something from BCM or Radian.

Replace the muzzle device with that BCM compensator flash hider combo and get the big one.

Get a Magpul MOE plus grip or the K2 grip.

Replace the dust cover with that strike industries version.

Replace the sling with something from Blue Force Vickers.

Get rid of that fixed forward side and replace it all with flipup sights or just replace the red dot with a Colt carry handle rear sight.

Get a magpul or ranger plate bottom for those pmags.

Replace the trigger with something from BCM or Gisselle.
 
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