Mega Rad Gun Thread

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兄貴 Forevermore said:
How much are the MICH and PASGT running these days? I've seen them going at minimum for 500 where I'm at pre-covid.
I've gotten to wear a ECH before from a friend, but I'd be more worried about the new thermoplastics because I remember hearing issues in the first few sets.
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Got my MICH for $340ish. One of the local surplus store guys knew I was looking, and he snagged it for me. I was lucky, they are pretty well extinct in my area. $500 online if you want it now.

The PASGT I picked up a long time ago for around $400ish, I think. Now you can find them for less than a couple hundred online.

_
Edit to add:
The old PASGT, if well maintained, is a perfectly decent helmet. While it doesn't have the level IVish protection that some of the fancy new helmets do, and tactical communications can be a pain in the ass to integrate, if you are facing a situation in which you really want/need a ballistic helmet it'll get the job done. Grenades and Artillery are still the biggest killers in modern conflict, and the primary killers with those is fragmentation. Missiles and Bombs likewise. And hey, if it stops a bullet from smashing your brain, all the better.

Now if only we could do something about overpressure.
 
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Smoke Manmuscle said:
Franchi Affinity 3
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i borrowed one on a duck hunt last year. it's a heavier than the ideal upland gun, but an excellent bare-bones inertia fowl and game gun. too light for clays or trap imho, the swing is all fucked and it's annoying to take down for cleaning due to the way the bolt is retained in the receiver after removing the barrel, but it's typical beretta workmanship at a good price. chokes work well, but they are unique to franchi and if you have a favorite choke from Jeb's or whatever it will not fit. the wrench is also unique. it worked with all game loads other than some very light #7-1/2 and #8 but that might be because they were the cheap rio cardboard ones from the late 90's i found. the one with the plastic disc at the front.
 
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Back me up! said:
So I went to a 3 hour class with my first AR, had some fun, and now its time to customize and update my S&W MP Sport 2. I want to upgrade the charging handle, are there any brands to look/lookout for?

Also what's a good mid-grade M-LOK handguard?
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For charging handle you could go with Badger Tactical

For an MLOK handguard you'd be fine with BCM or Daniel Defense.
 
Back me up! said:
I want to upgrade the charging handle, are there any brands to look/lookout for?

Also what's a good mid-grade M-LOK handguard?
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what deficiencies or problems are you trying to solve with aftermarket parts? Midwest Industries makes a pretty good MLOK compatible handguard that's light, relatively slim, and has some rail sections included (although they will not fit in all positions if they're next to each other). the installation requires no special tools since you can use a normal receiver extension wrench (for the castle nut) to install it. other options are the MCMR from BCM (lighter/slimmer) or the MFR from DD (heavier, more durable, arguably a more complex installation method).
 
Back me up! said:
So I went to a 3 hour class with my first AR, had some fun, and now its time to customize and update my S&W MP Sport 2. I want to upgrade the charging handle, are there any brands to look/lookout for?

Also what's a good mid-grade M-LOK handguard?
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Depends on your priorities, but I'm a fan of the Aero Atlas handguards - simple installation and they're reasonably lightweight and very slim.

Also, a pretty good deal on a .308 AR barrel has me starting up an AR-10 build now. Should be good times. Already ordered an upper receiver, handguard/barrel nut and a reaction rod along with an LPK. Going to wait for discounts to come along before I buy the rest.
 
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I have a 40round Molot AK magazine with a tiny bit of rust on one side where it goes into the rifle. What is the best way to remove it?

I was going to hit it with CLP and let it soak then take a brush to it, but wanted to run this by the brain trust.
 
Cpl. Long Dong Silver said:
How do you like the Lynx otherwise?
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i love mine. short of any differences i wouldn't know to notice it's a straight up cloned saiga. it's a ton of fun but more unorthodox than a tube-fed shotgun. it's front heavy and with larger magazines it's pretty cumbersome. it's a little tricky to get magazines to load with a closed bolt since the shell presses against the bolt. you gotta push the shell down a little as you rock it in. the 5 round mags don't really have this issue and are the easiest to work with. the bolt hold open sucks. it's a little button you push in by the trigger guard that is supposed to hold the bolt back, but it will close itself unless you treat it gingerly. i think that may be a problem with just mine. the iron sights kinda suck too just being a bead at the front and a notch at the end of the gas tube, but there's a side rail that i've got a kobra red dot for. out of the box you'll have to adjust the gas plug based on what you're shooting which is a pain in the ass. replacing it with an autoplug is a must. i recommend it if a cheap AK shotgun is your thing but you may or may not have to mess with it before you get it working just right.

edit: this guy's playlist is a well of info for the lynx and goes into detail more than some shmuck like myself could offer.
 
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Cpl. Long Dong Silver said:
I have a 40round Molot AK magazine with a tiny bit of rust on one side where it goes into the rifle. What is the best way to remove it?

I was going to hit it with CLP and let it soak then take a brush to it, but wanted to run this by the brain trust.
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For surface rust can try lightly scrubbing with 0000 steel wool soaked in WD40 or Ballistol.
 
Well, I've started my collection, after getting my Firearms Certificate, despite my photo looking like a serial killer's mugshot.
So I've got my hands on a Tippman M4-22 Elite L for fun down at the range, and as with any AR style gun, the urge to slap a bunch of shit on the handguard is strong. Luckily, thanks to a bunch of spare stuff my dad had lying around, I haven't had to spend much money on that, just the M-Lok picatinny adapters.
So far, I've added a front sling swivel, a Magpul angled foregrip, a Konus Pro T30 optic and an old C-More Railway red dot.
The results have been pretty good so far, especially considering I got it all for free.
 
TheRedRanger said:
a Konus Pro T30 optic and an old C-More Railway red dot
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at the same time?
Cpl. Long Dong Silver said:
tiny bit of rust
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if it's just light surface rust, someone has already mentioned #0000 steel wool and a bit of oil and lightly rub the affected area. sandpaper, unless very fine, will likely be too much abrasive either in area affected or in grit. you can also use a rust converter (tannic acid usually alongside some kind of emulsion/wax/polymer carrier) and a q-tip or cotton ball to change the iron oxide to iron phosphate. iron phosphate is a very dark gray, oxygen resistant material and can provide some protection if done repeatedly (this is basically how rust bluing works although there's a lot more to rust bluing in the prep work and stages between treatments).
 
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TheGreatDodongus said:
So, I've been wondering if the Indiana mall shooting has caused anyone here to reevaluate their choice of EDC. Seeing the amazing feat by Elijah Dickens, who stopped the shooter from 40 yards, landing 8/10 shots in 15 seconds, I had to ask myself: "Can I achieve that with my current EDC, should the situation demand it?". The answer is no.

I like my hellcat, it's small, handy, and comfortable. Nonetheless, the weird horseshoe sights combined with the small sight radius make precision shooting at longer ranges a difficult proposition. To add to that, the recoil is snappy, I can't control it well enough to rapid fire accurately at anything past 3-5 yards.

The simple fact of the matter is that in pursuing a EDC that maximized concealability and comfort, I had severely compromised on shooting performance. Even at the time I began carrying my hellcat, I understood this to some extent–it's a no-brainer that micro compacts aren't going to handle as well as their larger, more substantial counterparts–but the shooting in Indiana really made me stop and consider whether or not the trade-off was truly worth it.

In the end, I decided to trade the hellcat out for something larger. Not too long ago, I asked here about aftermarket upgrades for the Beretta 92FS. At the time, I was intending to build a competition gun, or more likely, a fun range toy. Having made up my mind to change over to a new carry gun, I instead chose my 92F compact as the focus for my upgrades, with the intention to make it into the best EDC possible, with an emphasis on shooting performance over comfort. Here's what I have so far:

  • Swapped the factory trigger bar with LTT to shorten SA reset
  • Replaced the factory 20lb hammer spring with a 13lb to reduce DA pull weight
  • Replaced the factory hammer with a Wilson Combat Deluxe to reduce take-up and minimize chances for light primer strikes
  • Replaced the factory safety with a Wilson Combat low profile left side only safety, to decrease profile and minimize the chance of accidental safety actuation while holstered
  • Replaced the factory mag release with a Beretta oversized checkered mag release to allow me to actuate it without changing my grip
  • Replaced the factory steel trigger with a Beretta checkered trigger, because I found it too slick/slippery when my hands were wet.
  • Replaced the factory rear "snowman" sights that came standard on 80s 92s with the Wilson Combat U-notch sights
  • Replaced the trigger spring with a chrome-silicon one to improve durability
  • Installed a shock buffer to reduce frame-fatigue
  • Replaced the factory hammer spring end cap roll pin with a tension pin to allow for easier, punch-free disassembly
  • Swapped out the flat head grip screws with hex screws because fuck flatheads.
Still to be done:
  • Do a detail strip and polish metal-on-metal contact points, most notably the sear, hammer, hammer strut, trigger bar underside
  • Install a Wilson Combat hammer spring mag guide end cap. I already purchased one, but there's fitment issues I need to sort out
  • Install a Wilson Combat flat wire recoil spring. Again, I purchased one already, but it's internal diameter is smaller than the diameter of my guide rod. I think they sent me a 1911 recoil spring or something.
  • Install a Mcarbo light sear and firing pin spring
  • Potentially add grip tape to a few spots on the frame to improve recoil control
  • Shoot a few hundred rounds to break in the new parts
I also purchased a couple of magazine sleeves to allow 17 round mags to fit flush with the compact frame. Has anyone else recently undergone, or is in the process of undergoing a change to their EDC?
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Nope, no EDC change as I just can't reliably CC a full size pistol or even a medium size like a G19 or M&P 2.0 Compact.

That said, I'm trying to ot shoot more long range stuff with my CC, a P365 (remarkably good recoil for something so small)
 
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