Mega Rad Gun Thread

[Dean Pentel]

I went into the shop for ammo and ended up scoring a colt sp1 parts kit for 800 bucks. Building it rn

Cool as fuck! Please do post about it once you've gotten some rounds downrange with it.

 

[AGPinochet]

Actually new footage of a KAC LAMG being fired

Atmospheric Arms AEP-15, dual (swappable) ejection port receiver (for whatever reason these people haven't partnered with Stag at all)


Concept for a Minimalist Upper with integral RMR mount by some guy on reddit


Another guy is working on Super Safety (bad timing) integrating into CETME's and G3's


Modernized Bramit

Sureshot USA is working on adapting their AK Chassis system to Krink's


FGC-9 MK.II's for sale in France, 3k Euro per is the asking price


GunCAD dev S3 has come up with a printable version of an AK trigger that works with his (also 3D Printed) Super Safety design. Previously you had to modify an aftermarket FIME Group FCG (though this is still an option as it will be much more durable). Jigs for the conversion will be provided upon release


Ruger LCP done up in the "Ivan The Troll wanted a PPK frame but the geometry didn't work out so he had to improvise paving the way for countless abominations" style

 

[Bassomatic]

Just left Sarco. Amazing I still have a working card in my wallet. Actually blew my fun money last night taking Mrs to hockey game and suite.

Place is a firearm mecca, if anyone is every near by do stop. Super staff and fun to poke around. I was here as Mrs basso's v day gift to me.

I don't know why but I wanted one of those little h&r top break in 32 s&w just to have.

 

[BallsMcLongDong]

Just left Sarco. Amazing I still have a working card in my wallet. Actually blew my fun money last night taking Mrs to hockey game and suite.

Place is a firearm mecca, if anyone is every near by do stop. Super staff and fun to poke around. I was here as Mrs basso's v day gift to me.

I don't know why but I wanted one of those little h&r top break in 32 s&w just to have.

Buy it anyway. They're fun as fuck to play with, and cheaper than the day is long. You can search "wall hanger gun" on the internet and find stacks of em for like $50 bucks.
Speaking of, I have won a bid on GB for stupid cheap for a "wall hanger". It's a british sporting percussion rifle. Missing the lock, but everything else intact. In rough shape, but not unsalvageable. I have repaired much, much worse.
So Mrs. Balls and I's new project is to get er blasting. Buuuuuuuuuut, toobz, I wanna try converting it to flintlock. Anyone here have any experience with converting percussion to flintlock? If not, I'm gonna wing it. My dipshit projects always have a 30/70 split of either working perfectly or blowing up.

 

[BallsMcLongDong]

Here's where the nipple used to be.
Have a couple options. I can either A: Leave it as percussion, clean the thread, add a new nipple or nipple/drum combo.
B: Attach a flintlock lock, and angle it so it will interact after finding a touchhole liner matching the threads.
C: Find a bolt that fits and plugs the thing up, screw it in, cut it flush, weld over the top to seal this, then drill my own touch hole and tap it on the side.
Don't know if anyone has done something similar and can advise.
I just hate seeing old guns become wall hangers. My aunt in law's house drives me crazy because she collects old cowboy guns for the aesthetic, and every time I go in I'm like, "Hey, you know I could fix that colt thunderer. They're nice. Or that vintage marlin. Or the Krag. Or the kentucky rifle. Or the 1800's SAAs over your fireplace. Fuck shit, I'll do it for free, PLEASE LET ME FIX THOSE FUCKING GUNS." She's scatterbrained so it's always, "Oh you could? Okay, remind me the next time you're here!"

 

[1Tonka_Truck]

Concept for a Minimalist Upper with integral RMR mount

Why?

by some guy on reddit

That checks out.

 

[Falcos_Commisar]

Lever gun woes strike again.

So, all set on the Marlin 1894 in .357, then S&W drops the 1854 in .44 mag. No problem, it's Marlin time anyway. However.... Smith unusually made the stainless threaded barrel and larger lever loop STANDARD.

In S&W land, you pay MORE for bluing and a "classic" look.

In Marlin land..... Bend over for that stainless if we even make it in the caliber you want.

It seems that S&W basically.... Copied the Henry action or at least design features with their 1854, which is fine by me.

So, wait for the Smith in .357 or get the Marlin now....?

 

[Romulus augustulus]

Lever gun woes strike again.

So, all set on the Marlin 1894 in .357, then S&W drops the 1854 in .44 mag. No problem, it's Marlin time anyway. However.... Smith unusually made the stainless threaded barrel and larger lever loop STANDARD.

In S&W land, you pay MORE for bluing and a "classic" look.

In Marlin land..... Bend over for that stainless if we even make it in the caliber you want.

It seems that S&W basically.... Copied the Henry action or at least design features with their 1854, which is fine by me.

So, wait for the Smith in .357 or get the Marlin now....?

marlin has better quality control. S&W revolvers are hit and miss.

 

[BallsMcLongDong]

Lever gun woes strike again.

So, all set on the Marlin 1894 in .357, then S&W drops the 1854 in .44 mag. No problem, it's Marlin time anyway. However.... Smith unusually made the stainless threaded barrel and larger lever loop STANDARD.

In S&W land, you pay MORE for bluing and a "classic" look.

In Marlin land..... Bend over for that stainless if we even make it in the caliber you want.

It seems that S&W basically.... Copied the Henry action or at least design features with their 1854, which is fine by me.

So, wait for the Smith in .357 or get the Marlin now....?

I love S&W. But Marlin. Marlin now. No discussion.

 

[WhoBusTank69]

C: Find a bolt that fits and plugs the thing up, screw it in, cut it flush, weld over the top to seal this, then drill my own touch hole and tap it on the side.
Don't know if anyone has done something similar and can advise.

Back in ye-olden days, they converted flintlocks to percussion by similar, granted more primitive, methods(see the 1816 conversions). I've seen percussions converted to flintlock before, and I assume they've done the same since they retained the original barrel.
My only worry in the process is the integrity of the material around the plug and that it's a really ratted out hexagonal barrel. If I had to do it, I would drill a wider hole, tap it, and make sure to get the depth for the bolt just right. Not sure about welding as I've never done it on a barrel, but otherwise you have a pretty solid plan.

 

[Romulus augustulus]

Here's where the nipple used to be.
Have a couple options. I can either A: Leave it as percussion, clean the thread, add a new nipple or nipple/drum combo.
B: Attach a flintlock lock, and angle it so it will interact after finding a touchhole liner matching the threads.
C: Find a bolt that fits and plugs the thing up, screw it in, cut it flush, weld over the top to seal this, then drill my own touch hole and tap it on the side.
Don't know if anyone has done something similar and can advise.
I just hate seeing old guns become wall hangers. My aunt in law's house drives me crazy because she collects old cowboy guns for the aesthetic, and every time I go in I'm like, "Hey, you know I could fix that colt thunderer. They're nice. Or that vintage marlin. Or the Krag. Or the kentucky rifle. Or the 1800's SAAs over your fireplace. Fuck shit, I'll do it for free, PLEASE LET ME FIX THOSE FUCKING GUNS." She's scatterbrained so it's always, "Oh you could? Okay, remind me the next time you're here!"

what bore is it?

 

[MrJokerRager]

I tried out pairing a 20 inch upper with an H2 buffer.

Felt over gassed lol.

Though looking online.

The buffer under H3 sold by PWS, has a weight of 5.1 oz. Which is the closest identical to a standard M16 recoil buffer of 5.2 oz. A standard H3 buffer is 5.6 oz.

 

[BallsMcLongDong]

Back in ye-olden days, they converted flintlocks to percussion by similar, granted more primitive, methods(see the 1816 conversions). I've seen percussions converted to flintlock before, and I assume they've done the same since they retained the original barrel.
My only worry in the process is the integrity of the material around the plug and that it's a really ratted out hexagonal barrel. If I had to do it, I would drill a wider hole, tap it, and make sure to get the depth for the bolt just right. Not sure about welding as I've never done it on a barrel, but otherwise you have a pretty solid plan.

Good to hear it's not as dumb as I think. And I assume it's a later 1800s, or high end, as it appears to have really pretty filligree everywhere, and only the first 5 inches of barrel is hexagonal, then it turns into a standard smooth barrel. Hard to find info, as GB listing was what I look for on eBay and online sellers, which is "old percussion rifle, parts or wall hanger"
When it isn't overly researched "Lightly Used Virginia Commonwealth Proof Marking 4058, Likely owned by Georgia Hammerschmidt and Fired 32 Times", you can usually get a killer deal.
Will attach another pic. Research is hard, given the prettyfication, and the fact that it has an indent where a shield crest emblem used to be, I assume it was some British sporter's gun, sold, stolen or traded. As it appears the shield was removed and instead a roughly made brass hound dog emblem is now on the side.

what bore is it?

What a fucking excellent question, I don't know, haha. The title is as above, and the description is "old percussion rifle, parts or wall hanger, poor shape, london stamped on barrel, 30 inch barrel"
Will let you know when it gets here. I usually luck out with things like this, buy a really high end watch as "old watch not working, for parts, broken" and all I really have to do is change the battery/take apart the movement and give her a cleaning and some oil.
At any rate, age considered, it's in really great shape. I have watched my buddy 's dad dig things out of creeks that were barely clinging to this realm and get them firing. If we have to, we'll under load. But I don't think that will be a problem, plenty of life appears to still be in it.
Can't beat $40 shipped for something that at worst, will be a cool thing to hang off the fireplace.

 

[Romulus augustulus]

What a fucking excellent question, I don't know, haha. The title is as above, and the description is "old percussion rifle, parts or wall hanger, poor shape, london stamped on barrel, 30 inch barrel"

let us know if it is a .45 with hexagonal rifling. small bore target rifles were very popular in the long range scene back then. they would shoot those rifles out to 1,000 yards. the most famous of these is the whitworth rifle, which was used by Confederate sharpshooters in the civil war to deadly effect at long ranges, but they were offered by most every higher end maker or arms like John rigby and so on. I believe Rigby won the inaugural shoot at the creedmore range using a .451 caliber muzzle loader against more modern single shot rifles.

 

[misplaced nut]

I tried out pairing a 20 inch upper with an H2 buffer.

Felt over gassed lol.

Though looking online.

The buffer under H3 sold by PWS, has a weight of 5.1 oz. Which is the closest identical to a standard M16 recoil buffer of 5.2 oz. A standard H3 buffer is 5.6 oz.

You don't have to buy a whole new buffer if you need to go up a size. KAK sells individual tungsten buffer weights at around $10, it's not that hard to swap the weights. H1 is one tungsten weight while H3 is three, all you have to do is knock out a roll pin and replace.

Also check your ejector and extractor, sometimes it can cause issues that look gas related if they're damaged or out of spec.

If you're still running into that issue and there's no issue with your bolt the only other things I can think of to resolve it would be going up to an A5 buffer system to add more weights or buying a ez tune gas tube and fix the gassing issue closer to the source.

 

[Club Sandwich]

How's this for this discount?

not bad. the SIG Romeo is a cut above the bushnell red dots, which aren't terrible and are adequate for general use. decent battery life and size too.

I tried out pairing a 20 inch upper with an H2 buffer.

conventional 20" rifle uppers with a rifle gas system that want to use the carbine stock just use the standard 3oz carbine buffer and receiver extension, so i'm not sure how the H2 felt "overgassed" unless you have something non-standard. a carbine buffer and extension will not work reliably for an MG in automatic due to lock time issues and possible bolt bounce, and to get it working will need a slightly beefier action spring, but this will not matter for a semi-auto.

 

[WhoBusTank69]

and only the first 5 inches of barrel is hexagonal, then it turns into a standard smooth barrel.

At least you know it's not an especially cheap cheap barrel, half-round was generally an extra or by-request option for the longest time.

 

[MrJokerRager]

You don't have to buy a whole new buffer if you need to go up a size. KAK sells individual tungsten buffer weights at around $10, it's not that hard to swap the weights. H1 is one tungsten weight while H3 is three, all you have to do is knock out a roll pin and replace.

Also check your ejector and extractor, sometimes it can cause issues that look gas related if they're damaged or out of spec.

If you're still running into that issue and there's no issue with your bolt the only other things I can think of to resolve it would be going up to an A5 buffer system to add more weights or buying a ez tune gas tube and fix the gassing issue closer to the source.

not bad. the SIG Romeo is a cut above the bushnell red dots, which aren't terrible and are adequate for general use. decent battery life and size too.

conventional 20" rifle uppers with a rifle gas system that want to use the carbine stock just use the standard 3oz carbine buffer and receiver extension, so i'm not sure how the H2 felt "overgassed" unless you have something non-standard. a carbine buffer and extension will not work reliably for an MG in automatic due to lock time issues and possible bolt bounce, and to get it working will need a slightly beefier action spring, but this will not matter for a semi-auto.

I was looking into what buffer to go with, and read up that the C7A2 uses an H2 and also saw this diagram as well.



But I saw first hand how much is the pressure different in the 5.56 and 223.

The 5.56 would eject between 2:00 to 3:00 and the 223 would eject 3:00 to 4:00.

The upper in question is a 20 inch Colt. And the BCG is from BCM.

 

[Club Sandwich]

read up that the C7A2

uses the H2, yes, however it isn't reliable in automatic, generally speaking because it's not balanced for a rifle length gas system and creates too little dwell time when the bolt is constantly cycling - the light weight moves too quickly and allows the bolt to move too fast, which can induce a bouncing effect during locking. the rifle gas system is designed for a 5oz (not including the very early XM16 buffer assembly), the H2 is 4.6oz, the H3 is 5.4oz. if you are not firing in automatic, the buffer weight is nearly irrelevant because your finger is unlikely to be faster than the cycling time of the action consistently.

the H6 has six smaller, shimmed weights in a tighter grouping than typical, and this reduces bolt bounce. at 5.2oz, it's nearly perfect for the rifle length gas system. the A5, T2 and various other devices are a similar solution on the market. the buffer is a tuning device for the gas port and length to determine overall timing of the system (how long it's pressurized and how much gas is in the system in volume). if you're experiencing over-gassing in an otherwise standardized rifle, the buffer can tune that, but it's a fix for a deeper issue like gas port size/erosion issues, nonstandard ammunition, or something else going on.

The 5.56 would eject between 2:00 to 3:00 and the 223 would eject 3:00 to 4:00.

The upper in question is a 20 inch Colt. And the BCG is from BCM.

2-3 o'clock is definitely unusual - it implies too much gas in the system, too light of a bolt or spring or buffer, too large a gas port, gas port location is too close to the breach, gas system is nonstandard/abnormal in some way, et c. Colt has made a lot of uppers over the years. if you have an assembly number or SKU that can help narrow it down. the T series for example has larger than normal gas ports (0.0995" iirc) designed for light varminting/target rounds for example.

what exact ammunition are you using? M193 specification ammo (55gr FMJ, 3165 fps, 55,000 psi) or something else? with .223 Remington Magnum (typically 55gr FMJ but velocity varies between manufacturers - the original specs are around 3,200 fps and 52,000 psi though). M855 is intended for a long throat at the chamber, and is significantly higher pressure than either M193 or typical .223 (63,000 psi i think).

it vaguely sounds like you have a .223/M193 barrel and you're firing M855 through it, using the buffer to deal with the pressure difference...

 

[WelperHelper99]

let us know if it is a .45 with hexagonal rifling. small bore target rifles were very popular in the long range scene back then. they would shoot those rifles out to 1,000 yards. the most famous of these is the whitworth rifle, which was used by Confederate sharpshooters in the civil war to deadly effect at long ranges, but they were offered by most every higher end maker or arms like John rigby and so on. I believe Rigby won the inaugural shoot at the creedmore range using a .451 caliber muzzle loader against more modern single shot rifles.
View attachment 5801905

Post civil war, didn't they do the same with 45-70? Because 45-70 can reach out 1000 yards if you have the right sights to calculate the drop.