Mega Rad Gun Thread

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quaawaa said:
YouTube recommended me a small Russian channel that makes functioning miniature guns complete with custom scaled-down ammo (i.e. they're not .22 LR):
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It's good to see the firearms manufacturing industry finally catering to the gnome community.

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quaawaa said:
YouTube recommended me a small Russian channel that makes functioning miniature guns complete with custom scaled-down ammo (i.e. they're not .22 LR):
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Apparently they're made by Arsenal Firearms and Larry Vickers made a series of videos about them:
 
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Been a hot minute since popped in.

Wanted to thank everyone on the ideas about the faux suppressors. The idea seemed silly but, I try to be humble and ask. I know my guns pretty well but sometimes stuff goes over my head. I rather confirm what I think then miss anything.

Also Mrs basso who knows the basics was up my butt about learning about them.

Do have a cerakoate question, if you wanted to keep lettering raw what's best trick? Looking at a slide.
 
DuckofDoom said:
I think your options for 7.62x54r are going to be pretty limited without spending a significant amount on having a Mosin refurbished and re-barreled. If you just don't like NATO ammo, have you considered something like a Mauser? It's not using NATO ammo, and the Turkish models can be found at reasonable prices, and are usually in better shape than the Mosins I've seen.
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Spanish Mausers made in the 50s are in good used condition for ~$400 .
 
Akran said:
Hi-temp green masking tape and an xacto knife. It will probably be a bitch to get perfect but it's possible.
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I was Afraid this was the best thing. Either way thanks for the suggestion.
 
MerelyAPlateOfSpaghetti said:
A buddy put nail polish in his lettering, I wonder if you clear coat the lettering it will work?
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How did that hold up? I've used nail polish for stuff with no real value esp to get red or white back. But never gone through a treatment like cerakoate.

The place I use suggested masking off, I was just hoping for a less PITA ordeal.
 
Bassomatic said:
How did that hold up? I've used nail polish for stuff with no real value esp to get red or white back. But never gone through a treatment like cerakoate.

The place I use suggested masking off, I was just hoping for a less PITA ordeal.
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So far, it's held up pretty well but my buddy didn't put it in an oven to cure Ceracote either lol

Looking into it a bit, most nail polish contains a copolymer blend which doesn't list a melting temperature, but it does list a boiling temp. Ceracote cures at 250 Fahrenheit from what I've read, so it seems at least plausible that clear coating the lettering would seal it and withstand the heat. Also fun is trying to find the melting point of nail polish and finding out there's a nail polish brand called Melting Point poisoning all results :stress:

edit: from that page - "
Used in Coatings Industry:
ADIPIC ACID/NEOPENTYL GLYCOL/TRIMELLITIC ANHYDRIDE COPOLYMER is used as a key ingredient in the formulation of high-performance coatings for its remarkable resistance to heat, chemicals, and weathering. This ensures the longevity and protection of coated surfaces in diverse environments."
 
EggImpregnator said:
Now I want a PCC. FUCK YOU
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They all take Glock mags now, you should be fine.

Also, I have a hankering for a G26 for some unexplained reason... So now I'm on the look out for the cheapest way to get one (a REAL one, not a Dagger, lul).

Edit: Local place has a light used Gen 4 for $450, I think I can do better, but not by much... I fondled it along with a Gen 5, and with that particular one finger groves or not felt about the same, to me.
 
BikeLock said:
They all take Glock mags now, you should be fine.

Also, I have a hankering for a G26 for some unexplained reason... So now I'm on the look out for the cheapest way to get one (a REAL one, not a Dagger, lul).
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They just came out with a G26.5 MOS as a limited run distributor exclusive. So that will be my next purchase before they're gone. Just go on guns.com and look for a used one.
 
Bassomatic said:
Do have a cerakoate question, if you wanted to keep lettering raw what's best trick? Looking at a slide.
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Akran said:
Hi-temp green masking tape and an xacto knife. It will probably be a bitch to get perfect but it's possible.
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masking tape and careful application for anything very shallow or that is laser etched. another method is the lowly modeling clay to fill in the engraving, a razor to get it completely flat, then apply cerakote as normal in multiple thin layers and sand blast between coats, then bake as needed. cerakote will not bond to the clay and i can remove it with a needle or awl or something carefully. a similar method can be used to protect rubber buttons or glass if i'm cerakoting optics.
 
Bassomatic said:
How did that hold up? I've used nail polish for stuff with no real value esp to get red or white back. But never gone through a treatment like cerakoate.

The place I use suggested masking off, I was just hoping for a less PITA ordeal.
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I'm a complete nigger and just use Crayola crayon.

Who cares if it falls off? I can put it back easily enough. And if I ever want it gone, all it takes is a firm nylon brush.

Oh, I'm retarded, it was to mask letters off for Cerakote. Honestly I would just cerekote over whatever lettering you wanted to mask off and dig it out with an exacto or a pick, and then refil the letters with whatever color you fancy after the fact. No matter what method you use you're probably going over the lettering with a pick anyways.

Do what Club Sandwich said, that would probably work better, but it sounds like its gonna be a labor of love.
 
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For those interested in multiple ballistic impactors for anti-drone countermeasures, along with individual/weapon targeting systems:
(Link) (Archive)
This private information is unavailable to guests due to policies enforced by third-parties.
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Here's a promo reel & review/publicity video for the SMASH 2000/3000 system:
MerelyAPlateOfSpaghetti said:
A buddy put nail polish in his lettering, I wonder if you clear coat the lettering it will work?
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Instead of nail polish or white-out, I use enamel paint pens to fill roll-marks & arsenal stamps, wipe off the excess, then let it dry. The same for sight markings, rear notches & front posts; never had to repaint anything unless I take it off intentionally.
 
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modelo 51 full size.JPG

Took the model 1951 out again. I had forgotten how nice it points. The sights are those old timey miniature combat sights that used to be standard on service guns but its not much a hindrance on this gun. trigger is heavy but breaks cleanly. The heel mag release button can be hit with the thumb so its not that much of a aggravation. The crossbolt shotgun style safety is strange though. feeds from 8 round single stack mags and is SAO. mags are a huge downside for this gun. They run 50-90 dollars a piece.

They also made a machine pistol variant with a 10 round mag. with a 1000 rounds per minute. i really don't understand the point of this thing
1951R.jpg
 
Romulus augustulus said:
feeds from 8 round single stack mags and is SAO. mags are a huge downside for this gun. They run 50-90 dollars a piece.
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you can rather easily modify the walther p38/p1 magazines for the M1951 with cutting the correct notch for the heel release. be sure to field strip and insert the factory mag for your specific pistol. note the position of the feedlips as visible where they protrude from the frame with the slide assembly removed as viewed from the side. this is the critical position of the presentation of the round to the chamber for feeding.

remove the grips and heel release magazine catch and insert the walther magazine to the depth that matches the factory magazine. use a sharpie to mark where you need to cut the walther magazine for the heel release so the magazine sits at that position.

disassemble the p38/p1 magazine and use a drill and files or dremel, et c to make the needed cuts. be sure to remove any burrs and reassemble, checking for the follower to move smoothly. if done with care you now have cheap and readily available magazines for your M1951.
 
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