Mega Rad Gun Thread

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BallsMcLongDong said:
Could be something else. Did you try the pencil trick?
Put a pencil down the barrel, eraser end first. Pull the trigger, if the firing pin is moving at all, it'll launch the pencil out. if it's not the pin and it's the spring, you'll at least see a weak indentation on the eraser.
It's all good. Same thing happened with my wife's cheetah, thankfully got a pin for it.
Edit: just reread, isn't even hitting primer. you can take the slide off and push the pin, see if you can see it. Could also be something fouled and in the way.
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Much remoil and field stripping later and the firing pin won't budge. Tried the pencil trick to test too. I also noticed a small streak of red loctite on the extractor, but that part works normally.

"Fuck my life, youtube!" as Kingcobra would say.
 
Agares said:
Much remoil and field stripping later and the firing pin won't budge. Tried the pencil trick to test too. I also noticed a small streak of red loctite on the extractor, but that part works normally.

"Fuck my life, youtube!" as Kingcobra would say.
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Like it won't move at all? Even with the firing pin block pushed down? Woof. Hope there's not a ring of loctite on it. Can gently try to get it to move by stripping it down to just the pin, then slowly taking a concave punch and light hammer taps to the back of the pin.
 
WhatInTheActualFuck said:
Fucking hell, people overuse the hell out of that shit and in the most inappropriate places, too.
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Blue loctite is just fine for optics and rails but no, retards just have to use the stronger red stuff.
BallsMcLongDong said:
Like it won't move at all? Even with the firing pin block pushed down? Woof. Hope there's not a ring of loctite on it. Can gently try to get it to move by stripping it down to just the pin, then slowly taking a concave punch and light hammer taps to the back of the pin.
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This is gonna need the work of an actual gunsmith. I don't have the setup to do that anymore. Is the firing pin block the thing in the slide that goes up when the trigger is pulled?
 
Agares said:
"Fuck my life, youtube!" as Kingcobra would say.
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Aw yeah, toobz, watch that King Cobra microwave magic on the firing pin with bacon, extra cheese and beeeeeeeer. I'm using Red Lager-tite and it is gonna be tight.

That's most definitely what's up.
 
Blasterisk said:
Aw yeah, toobz, watch that King Cobra microwave magic on the firing pin with bacon, extra cheese and beeeeeeeer. I'm using Red Lager-tite and it is gonna be tight.

That's most definitely what's up.
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Whats up You toob, got a nice SKS here, gonna boil it in cosmoline to get that dank milsurp flavor. Gonna add a custom Tapco stock, yesssssss and a detachable magazine, TMDWU
 
MCLOS Horthy said:
Whats up You toob, got a nice SKS here, gonna boil it in cosmoline to get that dank milsurp flavor. Gonna add a custom Tapco stock, yesssssss and a detachable magazine, TMDWU
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"What up youtoob, so today one of my fans sent me a Smith and Weston model 10 revolver. Smith and Weston makes some really dank revolvers, but they're not a sponsor. *beeeelch*. 'Scuse me. Anyways, I'm gonna gun hack it with some sweet black and green spray paint and some dank plastic cobra grips."
like-papa-like-son-v0-non13qa9vqka1.png
 
Agares said:
So I got my Beretta 92x (used) last week and ran into some problems with it. First of all, the RMR plate was still attached to the slide and one of the screws holding it in place was stripped. And as if that weren't enough, I took it to the range today only to discover the firing pin was fucked. It would chamber rounds just fine, but it would go click every time I pulled the trigger. Not even a misfire because there was literally zero indentation on the primer. And the extractor works just fine too.

I swear if Bubba somehow got loctite in the firing pin mechanism.... Used guns are a dice roll and I rolled a nat 1 with this one.
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have you tried drifting the pin holding the firing pin block (right to left)? after the FP block is removed but your punch is in place, you can remove the block from the bottom (in theory gravity and the spring should let it pop out, but you might need tweezers or a prising tool if it's somehow glued in place). it's also possible to mess up the optic plate retaining screw and create a burr that interferes with the firing pin channel, but this is kind of unlikely unless someone managed enough torque to upset the firing pin steel.

after you remove the FP block and spring, you can rotate the safety to the safe position, then drive out the two small roll pins that hold it in place, removing the left side safety lever, then you can then slightly push out safety drum to press forwards on the transfer pin and remove the spring and detente being careful not to let them fly away. this spring and detente is also present on the right hand side. once both detentes are out the safety can be removed from the right-hand side.

on the bottom of the slide, forwards from the FP block is a small FP retaining pin. drive this out upwards and out of the slide and use the punch to retain the FP and extractor. carefully withdraw the punch and allow the extractor and extractor spring, and FP and FP spring to come out gently so they don't get lost.

review the FP channel and determine if there is debris or an obstruction or something and freshen with a drop of oil and otherwise clean it. reassembly is the reverse order.
 
Okay hear me out. What if I purchased a 45° offset and threw my magpul mbus rear sight on it. It wouldn’t be zeroed and I’d just throw it on the center diagonal right side of the hand guard. If I need to take a more accurate shot I just flip up the peep hole and pray.

Scientifically speaking, my performance would be optimal and I’m saving weight by not adding another front iron sight.
Instead of two points of failure I only have one. I fail to see the downsides the more I big brain this.I believe this is what’s called point shooting?

What if I 3D printed polymer anti aircraft sight posts like $5.

Forward thinking technology.JPG
 
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Bought 9 boxes of Winchester 7.62x39mm today, coming in a few days:
Q3174-1__97507.jpg
180 rounds total, brass cased. Hopefully non magnetic, I want to use this at the range. But yeah, pretty good investment I think. Good SKS food, 123 grain, standard stuff, good for range and home defense all the same. Made in the USA, so I'm happy with that. Guess though I'm pushing back buying the SD40 2.0 though now lol.
 
John Badman said:
Okay hear me out. What if I purchased a 45° offset and threw my magpul mbus rear sight on it. It wouldn’t be zeroed and I’d just throw it on the center diagonal right side of the hand guard. If I need to take a more accurate shot I just flip up the peep hole and pray.

Scientifically speaking, my performance would be optimal and I’m saving weight by not adding another front iron sight.
Instead of two points of failure I only have one. I fail to see the downsides the more I big brain this.I believe this is what’s called point shooting?

What if I 3D printed polymer anti aircraft sight posts like $5.

View attachment 6545372
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If you’re gonna bother with a back up aiming system, then put on front and rear. Or just do what everyone else does when they put an LPVO on their gun, and put a dot on there too.
 
Front sight is falling off my newest Dagger slide sub 400 rounds, and idk how to tighten it lol. Think I'll just let it buck since my new dot is way the fuck better than irons and I couldn't see it anyways
 
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