Mega Rad Gun Thread

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So with all the discussion in the gun sphere about exploding Sigs and MIM'ed parts from India, I was googling around to find some more technical info on MIMing and happened to stumble upon an article from 2013 from a gun blog about just that subject. And just by coincidence, it's written by none other than Caleb Giddings, better known as the guy Paul Harrell BTFO'ed.

Despite that though, there's some good info here. This tidbit in particular is pretty ominous considering it's from 2013...
2025-04-27 21_09_54-The truth about MIM - Gun Nuts Media.webp


Sounds familiar doesn't it?

Anyways, you can find the article here: https://www.gunnuts.net/2013/03/18/the-truth-about-mim/
 
If you're going to plug youth .22 rifles, might as well add the Ruger 10/22 (or any of the myriad knockoffs) and the Savage Mk II to the rifle list. Yes, it's not a "serious" caliber, but even a plain-Jane 10/22 is one of the most fun guns you can buy and magazines aside, the Mk II is very solid.

Optics is a whole can of worms that would easily be its own page, but I can say that Holosun, Primary Arms and Vortex all offer very serviceable stuff for people on a budget.
or just any used old .22. I've got a old remington 511 made in the 40s i paid 90 dollars for works fine. every company made a .22 bolt so there are scads of them out there and as long as the bore isn't rusted out it just werks.
 
So with all the discussion in the gun sphere about exploding Sigs and MIM'ed parts from India, I was googling around to find some more technical info on MIMing and happened to stumble upon an article from 2013 from a gun blog about just that subject. And just by coincidence, it's written by none other than Caleb Giddings, better known as the guy Paul Harrell BTFO'ed.

Despite that though, there's some good info here. This tidbit in particular is pretty ominous considering it's from 2013...
View attachment 7297411

Sounds familiar doesn't it?

Anyways, you can find the article here: https://www.gunnuts.net/2013/03/18/the-truth-about-mim/

MiM parts have been used all over the world for decades. They're cheaper than forged parts and stronger than stamped or cast parts.

As long as you keep them in spec they're fine
 
looking forward to full once you get more input, I'm a bit clueless myself lol
@Dusty Old Bones As another pretty clueless person, a really great follow up project would be a "So you got a gun - but what about all the EXTRAS?" infographic - stuff about holsters, slings, lights, optics, ammo - you know, all the additional fiddly bullshit.

All that info is out there its just spread out all over the place.
 
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I took a stabo at updating this

Some milsurp points

1. Royal tiger is a crapshoot, and should only be touched if you're willing to put in work on the gun, and have a replacement barrel
2. Hunter's lodge is legit, but they genuinely have a 3-6 month waiting period for shipping and an extremely archaic ordering process. That said, most of the stuff they have, while absolutely filthy, is very shootable with good serviceable bores. For their prices too, you can make your money back in parts easily.
3. Century is not worth mentioning, because you cannot buy direct from them. These days, century as an importer is 100% serviceable
4. The C&R liscense is nice, however some gun broker sellers will not ship to a C&R. More importantly, since the C&R liscense is a type of FFL, the ATF can come take a look at your stuff any time they feel without a warrant.
5. LEO tradeins don't really contain Berettas anymore. Those 84s that came in recently were italian forest service guns. Its mostly Sigs, Glocks, and S&Ws and the occasional AR or 870
6. Something I would add, expect to work on these guns if you want to get a deal. This is also because if you have an issue, most gunsmiths these days will not touch these guns unless its just sporterizing them.
 
I'll throw in Liberty Tree collectors as a fairly reputable retailer for milsurp and C&R.
That aside got a question can anyone recommend a good hip-pack style bag and holster combo? I've narrowed it down to desantis but not really feeling their hard fabric or whatever it is they use for the actual holster or I could go Vertx but you gotta buy the holster separate from the bag which at that point I could just jury rig something myself with double sided velcro.
 
Alright, 1911 users. What are you go to mags? I'm sick of seeing people arguing on forum threads from 2005. I see Chip McCormick and Wilson Combat 7 rounders go for about the same price $25. I've seen enough people have rapid spring wear with 8 round Wilson 47Ds that I'm sort of shying away from them. I saw one boomer complaining Wilson combat mags "don't have the dimple" but otherwise people seem to like them a lot. I know mecgar is also pretty good for the money, their comp mags are like $20.

I carry my 1911 (Dan Wesson Specialist .45 ACP) and all my carry mags are the Wilson Combat Vickers extreme duty mags, or whatever they're called. They have fully sealed bodies. No witness holes and the seam down the rear of the mag is welded shut. They've been great so far. They are 8 round mags. I also have some Mccormick 10rnd mags that have been reliable. I used to carry them as my reloads since they stick out the bottom of the grip kinda far and print like crazy under a shirt.
 
I'm stopping by to shill for, and remind you gentlemen, that the Firearms Training and Practice thread exists and its entirely too quite over there. :-(
 
MiM parts have been used all over the world for decades. They're cheaper than forged parts and stronger than stamped or cast parts.

As long as you keep them in spec they're fine
Yeah, I agree, and that was the general stab of the article too. My point is more pointing out the "MIM is hideously expensive to tool up", which might explain why Sig has continued to pump out poorly QC'ed parts. They might've previously done the Fight Club-esque insurance liability math and determined it wasn't worth a recall or switching suppliers, but maybe now with them being held liable in multiple cases they're regretting that decision.
 
@Dusty Old Bones As another pretty clueless person, a really great follow up project would be a "So you got a gun - but what about all the EXTRAS?" infographic - stuff about holsters, slings, lights, optics, ammo - you know, all the additional fiddly bullshit.

All that info is out there its just spread out all over the place.
My take on these things, written with first-time gun buyers and personal defense in mind:

Just pick one. Leather is better for your gun's finish but requires more upkeep. Kydex is harsher on your gun's finish but doesn't need the upkeep that leather does. Nylon, well... Just don't use nylon, it sucks. There's IWB (inside waistband) holsters, OWB (outside waistband) holsters, ankle holsters, shoulder holsters, pocket holsters, even chest holsters.

For the first-time gun buyer seeking a handgun, they will either want an IWB holster or an OWB holster. An IWB holster will be less comfortable (generally) but provide greater concealment, whereas an OWB holster will be more comfortable (again, generally) but provide lesser concealment. Avoid trash brands like We The People and Uncle Mike's, stick to good stuff like Vedder, Tenicor, Center Mass Concealment, Crossbreed, Alien Gear, Blade-Tech, etc.

There are some decent budget options out there. Magpul makes good slings. If you have the money, splurge a little and either get a leather sling from a reputable outfitter, or pick up something like a Vickers. Two-point slings are better for all-around use, which is what a first-time gun buyer will be interested in. One-point slings are better for that tacticool Gravy SEAL shit that you see Guntubers doing.

Definitely a helpful element on any gun used for personal defense. Surefire is amazing but there are as-good alternatives out there, chiefly Streamlight. You can't go wrong with a TLR-1HL, a TLR-7 Sub X or TLR-7 HLX, or a Protac 2.0. If you put a light on a handgun, it'll affect your search for a holster.

First, let's talk about red dots. There are so many red dots to choose from. Foxarmy, Sig (their rifle optics are good, their handgun optics suck) and AT3 make solid red dots if you're balling on a budget. Aimpoint is overrated. Trijicon is what you want if you want something so unbelievably tough, Boogie2988 could step on it and it wouldn't break, plus it's stupid simple. Holosun is the most bang for your buck, not as durable as Trijicon but holy shit, they have more features than you could shake a stick at. Shield is meh. Vortex is meh, too. Avoid anything with a Docter/Venom footprint, what you want is typically either RMR footprint or RMSc footprint. On a rifle, a red dot can be followed up with a magnifier for taking shots at longer ranges.

As for other stuff, you want either a prism sight or an LPVO (low-power variable optic). Prism sights offer fixed magnification, whereas LPVOs offer variable magnification. Both are great for taking shots at longer ranges. Primary Arms, Vortex, Burris, Trijicon, they're all good for the money. It's really hard to fuck it up when it comes to this part of the equation.

Avoid fiber-based optics, they're often junk and the good stuff is insanely overpriced.

This is the one where things get super wonky and super drawn-out.

What works well in one gun may not work well in another gun. Typically, FMJ (full metal jacket) will be the most reliable in terms of feeding, with the caveat being that in 99% of cases, you shouldn't be loading FMJ ammo into a firearm when it's carried/stowed for personal defense. What you want is almost always JHP (jacketed hollow-point) ammo. Federal, AAC, Hornady, Speer, Winchester, they all make good JHP ammo. I rock Federal HST in 9mm for my carry gun and always have, but there are all sorts of good choices out there.

In a shotgun used for personal defense, what you want is buckshot ammo. Anyone who tells you that birdshot is good for personal defense is full of shit. (Take a look at the name of the ammo and tell me which one you think is better at taking down a human that's attacking you. ;))

For training purposes, it's ideal that your practice ammo be the same weight, caliber and brand as your personal defense ammo. I carry 147gr Federal HSTs in 9mm, so 147gr Federal FMJ is what I practice with.

Overpressure ammo is another factor. Some guns can't handle overpressure ammo, but most modern guns do. Overpressure is labelled by the "+P" designator. "+P+" is an industry label for ammo that's loaded to greater operating pressures than a given brand's +P variety. Overpressure ammo has greater recoil than standard-pressure ammo, but has greater kinetic energy, thus making it (debatably) more effective than standard-pressure ammo. For 99% of all situations involving personal defense, there is zero need to use overpressure ammo. I use standard-pressure ammo.

The weight of a bullet is measured in grains (or gr, for short), like 147 grains for certain 9mm loads, for example. Just in 9mm, there are 115gr loads, 124gr loads, 135gr loads, 147gr loads, there are even 158gr loads for use with suppressors. Heavier bullets generate greater recoil.

Some calibers are measured by the metric system, while others are measured by the imperial system. 9mm, 10mm, 7.62×39mm, these are examples of caliber measured by the metric system. .40 S&W, .38 Special, .308, these are examples of caliber measured by the imperial system. Some calibers are measured by both and can be used interchangeably, like .223 and 5.56×45mm.

Some calibers are shorter or longer versions of other calibers. .40 S&W is a shorter version of 10mm with less recoil. You can use a .40 S&W in a gun chambered for 10mm, but not the other way around. This is also true of .357 Magnum and .38 Special, where the latter can be used in the former, but not vice versa. Some calibers are necked down, like .357 Sig where a 10mm was necked down to accept a 9mm bullet.

For shotguns, shell length is another measurement to take into consideration. The length of an open shell is used to create different loads before it is crimped (closed). For example, there are 12 gauge loads of 2-3/4 inch length with eight or nine pellets of 00 buckshot and a standard-pressure charge, and there are loads of 3 inch length with fifteen pellets of 00 buckshot and an overpressure charge (called a magnum load). Some shotguns have a chamber length that can accept longer shells, and others don't.

Shell/cartridge length can affect the operational reliability of a semi-automatic firearm. If you own a Glock 20 and try to use .40 S&W instead of 10mm in it, it may have issues with cycling properly.
 
@Ass to Ass

Aside from the Aimpoint PRO being THE dot to reccomend, pretty good write up. Surefire should get a special mention for rifle wmls though. Streamlight in the holster, Surefire on the rifle.

As far as ammo, you have 9mm, .357, .22, and 5.7 for pistols, and 5.56, 7.62, .22, and .50BMG that really matter for rifle platforms. The nitty gritty in calibers should be for the recoil hobbyist and minmaxer, it's a black hole for beginners.

I dig your style though and you clearly actually shoot enough to have a valid opinion.
 
For shotguns, shell length is another measurement to take into consideration. The length of an open shell is used to create different loads before it is crimped (closed). For example, there are 12 gauge loads of 2-3/4 inch length with eight or nine pellets of 00 buckshot and a standard-pressure charge, and there are loads of 3 inch length with fifteen pellets of 00 buckshot and an overpressure charge (called a magnum load). Some shotguns have a chamber length that can accept longer shells, and others don't.
Worth possibly mentioning that shotgun shells from European brands are often roll-crimped and slightly longer than US-manufactured star-crimped shells as a result.

Left is European (Czech); right is US. Both are sold as 2 3/4" shells, but my A300 can only hold six of the roll-crimped shells in the tube while seven of the star-crimped ones fit just fine:

1000003756.webp
 
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Worth possibly mentioning that shotgun shells from European brands are often roll-crimped and slightly longer than US-manufactured star-crimped shells as a result.

Left is European; right is US. Both are sold as 2 3/4" shells, but my A300 can only hold six of the roll-crimped shells in the tube while seven of the star-crimped ones fit just fine:

View attachment 7301133
Same here.
My 870 holds one less in the tube with a roll crimp Vs star crimp.

As for a sling I have a few of these and really like them plus the price is amazing. USA made to boot.
Great Sling Right Here
 
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