Rock Climbing

[LillyTheBestGirl]

I guess rock climbing isn't that popular here, since even the Olympics didn't revive it.

I climb indoors through the winter, and it's going pretty well. I started doing more off-the-wall training with weights and stretches, and the progress has been noticeable. Can't wait for spring to send all my outdoor projects from the last season.
The only thing I really need to put effort into is overcoming the fear of falling when leading. Any suggestions/ideas?

the climbing gym’s to avoid tranny faggotry

I feel you. The local gyms keep adding more and more faggy snowflake group climb nights. I'd share some of them, but they are so crazy and unique, you could phonebook my gym.

 

[KneeGrow]

I guess rock climbing isn't that popular here

From my few years of lurking before finally making an account, I’ve noticed most farmers aren’t particularly fit or social. Climbing is pretty social so it tracks it wouldn’t be super popular.

since even the Olympics didn't revive it.

The Olympics are gay and I would not have sex with them. They also have no idea how to format climbing as part of it. What kind of retard includes speed climbing?

The only thing I really need to put effort into is overcoming the fear of falling when leading. Any suggestions/ideas?

Practice whips, lots of them. Have a rope specifically for beating the shit out of taking practice whips. Obviously it would be better in a gym setting but if you know of any decent overhung walls outside all the better. Otherwise it’s all a matter game of risk assessment, is it a rated pg-13, R, or X climb? If not you should be good. Trust in your belayer and yourself.

I feel you. The local gyms keep adding more and more faggy snowflake group climb nights. I'd share some of them, but they are so crazy and unique, you could phonebook my gym.

No need to share, I’ve been floating across gyms over 5 states and they all do the same tranny flag bullshit. With the “queer climbers” nights populated with bisexual 3/10’s that maybe climb V2 and AGP’s galore.

 

[Rack Of CDs]

I've been climbing twice a week for three years now. I absolutely love it and I've probably been in the best shape of my life. I highly recommend trying out climbing if you're interested.

 

[KneeGrow]

I've been climbing twice a week for three years now. I absolutely love it and I've probably been in the best shape of my life. I highly recommend trying out climbing if you're interested.

What’s your max grade?

For those that see the thread randomly, climbing is fantastic for working out generally (think calisthenics) and is like solving a puzzle with your body. Unless you’re tall with a positive ape index than you’re just an aid climber and can fuck off. Sit start master race rise up.

 

[Rack Of CDs]

What’s your max grade?

For those that see the thread randomly, climbing is fantastic for working out generally (think calisthenics) and is like solving a puzzle with your body. Unless you’re tall with a positive ape index than you’re just an aid climber and can fuck off. Sit start master race rise up.

I'm climbing around 5.12 on lead at the moment and a V5 on bouldering. I've been a slump as of late so not really performing as well as I'd like to at the moment but I'm just happy to scurry up a wall. As a tall person with a positive index, I would like to remind you that using chalk is aid.

 

[KneeGrow]

I'm climbing around 5.12 on lead at the moment and a V5 on bouldering. I've been a slump as of late so not really performing as well as I'd like to at the moment but I'm just happy to scurry up a wall. As a tall person with a positive index, I would like to remind you that using chalk is aid.

I have an outdoor V3 for you that’ll make you regret being tall. It’s like 3 moves but the bigger you are the more awful it is.

I think my highest lead is still 5.10a

But bouldering is V7. I can do highball V2’s without too much of an issue but the moment I’m above my draw on lead I just think “TAKE TAKE TAKE”.

Trying to think of other climbing related things to ramble about that aren’t overly getting into personal information. The most I can think of is how funny it would be to see Null on a 5.5 auto belay.

 

[Rack Of CDs]

I'd pay money to see the ooperator do some climbing. When it comes to lead, if it makes you feel better, I have the same issue anytime I get above my quickdraw. My lizard brain kicks on and starts getting very upset with me.

I'd like to mention that I am a firm believer in people shorter than me are better climbers. Since I'm tall, if I get to a bad hold I can usually just reach above and skip it. Being shorter is harder starting out but it forces you to learn how to climb properly early instead of me who hit a massive wall at 5.11s since you can't skip any holds.

 

[KneeGrow]

Managed to get my foot stuck in some tall off width today. I think it’s maybe 20 feet tall, just wide enough to get a leg and an arm jammed into it. I was maybe 10 feet off the ground and started to slip out, went to jump out and I couldn’t get my foot out. Took a lot of power screaming and a tense minute of desperately shoving my shoulder in to rip it out.

Now my entire right arm and leg are pretty well flayed. So stoked to go at it again.

Any of you have any spicy climbs recently?

 

[2mm and 99 others]

Auto-belays are used in speed climbing competitions, if that's not a sign of reliability then I don't know what else could be.

How many? I only heard about three or four, and all of them were the climber's fault for not clipping in properly (including the six-million-dollar lawsuit incident in Seattle).

Necro, but gotta say it causes accidents mostly when the user doesn't clip to it at all.
Like, a speed climber who unclipped to adjust the camera (on which the fall was well documented) and then forgot to clip again and proceeded to climb. And this is unlikely to happen to someone who did not fall into routine, thus did not lose caution yet. Also there is the constant pull from the strap, at least near the ground, so if you are used to top rope, you gonna notice something is wrong. (My favourite case, not documented tho, is a guy who climbed the wall opposite from the one where the device was attached, while the distance between them was the same as the wall height)
reddit link video

Auto belay is my preferred way, because sometimes I can't stand my belayer's clumsy work with grigri, my friends all have noodle arms so they can't lead, and sometimes I feel noodle too or just don't want to lead. Downside is, that on higher walls it doesn't pull near the top and letting go means several meters of free fall, before it works.

 

[KneeGrow]

Auto belay is my preferred way, because sometimes I can't stand my belayer's clumsy work with grigri, my friends all have noodle arms so they can't lead, and sometimes I feel noodle too or just don't want to lead. Downside is, that on higher walls it doesn't pull near the top and letting go means several meters of free fall, before it works.

Use the Edelrid Jul for belaying, Grigri’s are for home schooled team kids. The Jul is like an auto breaking ATC. I’ve only ever heard of one person soft decking from a Jul and I’m pretty sure the belayer was trying to murder their climber in that instance. The Jul comes in I think 4 different forms, I personally use the single strand the most. I’ve used the giga Jul a handful of times (two strand model), the one time I did multi pitch and for rappelling.


As far as auto belays go, all the injuries/deaths I’m aware of are user error. Any if you see that lead climb auto belay system? I’d rather free solo.

 

[Mulbruk]

Since I'm tall, if I get to a bad hold I can usually just reach above and skip it.

The amount of flak you cope for it too, I'm one of the tallest in the group and the amount of times I've been able to bypass a crux or static some dyno through reach has definitely caused frustration for some of the others.

Any of you have any spicy climbs recently?

Been trying to improve my underhangs in the gym and the setters have got an obsession for these really close crunch moves that I'm finding difficult as I can't get my hips close enough without dropping my core too low causing me to lose tension. Pain in the ass as the crux is near the end and they're fairly long so I'm getting tapped far more than usual.

 

[KneeGrow]

the setters have got an obsession for these really close crunch moves that I'm finding difficult as I can't get my hips close enough without dropping my core too low causing me to lose tension.

As someone with a negative ape index and zero hip mobility I can sympathize. Reminds me of this chick that had become a setter, she was probably 4’11” and 85 pound's wet, would put up the most heinous sit starts. Like almost knees into your temple kind of shit. The other setters made her chill that out after a month of it.


Yesterday and todays sessions were complete ass
Went to two different crags and couldn’t do anything. Today got my ass whipped on some V5 and V6 slab. My poor fingys. I hate my favorite activity.

 

[Mulbruk]

What shoes do you guys use?

I'm looking for a new outdoor pair having used Butora Gomis for the last few years, haven't been a fan of them and in the market for something new.

 

[KneeGrow]

What shoes do you guys use?

I'm looking for a new outdoor pair having used Butora Gomis for the last few years, haven't been a fan of them and in the market for something new.

Oh boy.

So, that’ll depend on a bunch of factors. Depending on your feet will determine what you’ll go with. Another consideration is whether or not you want/need a super aggressive shoe or something softer. If you have an REI near you I suggest just spending a few hours trying on shoes. They don’t have all the available brands but it’ll help you get a general idea. Sometimes one of the larger brands will have area reps show up to gyms/popular crags/climbing events and they’ll have demo shoes you can try out. And don’t forget, sometimes you’ll want to downsize your shoes from your regular street show. It may feel like Chinese foot binding, but you’ll send hard.

Spoiler: Shoe PL

I am a massive fan of the brand Mad Rock when it comes to my shoes. I have a more narrow foot so their low volume shoes work for me pretty well. I use the remora’s as my general purpose shoe. Super flexible and toe hooks so good. When they’re still in the process of breaking in they heel hook really well too, however once they hit the middle to end of their life span the heels will begin to be trashfire. I’ve also used the Mad Rock Sharks and Drones. Sharks are a nice stiff middle ground shoe. Much better on heel hooks than the remoras for sure. The drones are super aggressive shoes, the heel hooks genuinely are aid and the toe hooks are immaculate. I go for low volume on all of them. I also down sized my remoras half a size, sharks half a size, but went true size with my drones. To be honest I could have half sized those down too.

Sorry if you knew most of that. I saw Butora and just knew that was the first shoe I bought at the suggestion of some gym staff. Wore a hole in those fuckers.
If any of you are cheap like me keep an eye on sales on steep and cheap.
Gear sales

 

[Mulbruk]

Can't quote, but yeah they've been in my kit from when I started and have been bumped down to a backup for a while but they've finally gave up the ghost. Absolute shit shoe wouldn't recommend.

Unfortunately the gyms/stores near me are smaller independents and mostly Scarpa focused which I've found just get torn to shreds on the rock around me (maybe the rubber is too soft or something?), could be I haven't looked hard enough.

Will try track down a some mad rocks, sharks sound almost exactly what I'm looking for.

 

[KneeGrow]

Unfortunately the gyms/stores near me are smaller independents and mostly Scarpa focused which I've found just get torn to shreds on the rock around me (maybe the rubber is too soft or something?), could be I haven't looked hard enough.

Scarpa isn’t the worst. I want to say I’ve had a pair of their lace up shoes (can’t remember for the life of be which ones exactly). I wore those guys for a hot minute and they did fine inside and outside. Went to resole them, the folks that did it did a pretty ass job sadly. They’re still floating around somewhere.
I assume you’re climbing granite, that shit devours rubber. I’m mostly on sandstone which is mildly more forgiving if it isn’t conglomerate.

Will try track down a some mad rocks, sharks sound almost exactly what I'm looking for.

I’ve been to a lot of larger gyms and popular crags (think places that have had 500+ people in a day) and have yet to have seen a Mad Rock rep at any events. I got lucky that a friend of mine with a similar build picked up a pair and suggested them to me. So, sadly you’ll be kinda fucked getting to try them before buying. I either have gotten them directly from their site or from steep and cheap when they’re on sale.

I forgot to mention I’ve also gotten a pair of evolve phantoms. Very aggressive stiff shoe. They aren’t terrible, but once I got into the Mad Rocks I’ve only touched them twice (over like a 4 year period).

Edit for typos and to apologize for sperging about climbing

 

[KneeGrow]

This is over a month later so I don’t feel too bad about being a double post. I’m also going to be an ass hole and tag a few people to attempt to generate life into a thread about a fun thing so, sorry not sorry.


Managed to send my longest project of the season, a V5
Fucker wasn’t even the highest grade I put down this season (2 incredibly soft V7’s were) but from first time touching it to sending took me almost a month of twice a week sessions.

Do any of you by chance have any experience with hang boarding? I just started recently and wanted to see if anyone had advice besides what I asked grok for because I’m a fucking idiot.

@AfghanBlue this is definitely a thread to shit up with your European climbing grade system. I don’t know what it is, but the font system infuriates me to look at. Just start the easiest thing at 0.

@CrunkLord420 I’m sorry to bother you but I saw you in the calisthenics thread which realistically is just introduction to rock climbing so I think you should go rock climbing and become even more powerful.

 

[gildersleeve]

Reviving a dead thread.

Anyone still rock climbing from the farms? Personally I’m having a pretty good outdoor season. I’ve completely dropped going to the climbing gym’s to avoid tranny faggotry.

My work schedule just opened up so I'm finally climbing again. Getting my GF into it. I'm a little surprised about the gay shit some of you have mentioned. As even in my area. My local indoor gyms have no flags or weird murals inside. And they're both located in blue dot towns in a majority republican area. Which IMO always have the most flagrant idiots.
Unfortunately in my area we don't have an abundance of outdoor climbing areas. Rock quality is bad on the cliffsides (cracked loose granite slabs.) So most of what we have out here are massive granite boulders deposited around the area. My favorite being a lead route around a 2ish story boulder functionally in the river. It's deep too so it's pretty common to ascend and then jump into the river and swim around it to the shore.
Otherwise I'm glad to get back in. It's been four years of working outside of the gym hours as I'm mostly into indoor bouldering. So back to just hitting it after work. I've degraded in my skills so I feel a tad embarrassed in myself coming back and not being able to do routes I was able to do in the past. Also the route setters have changed up how they mark routes so I'm almost confused at times. But at least they kept the wooden holds, baby heads whoms eyes get filled with chalk and stare at you. I would have been distraught if I didn't find the baby heads lol.
Haven't used one of those auto belays. Bigger gym in the city has them. Looks neat.

 

[CrunkLord420]

This is over a month later so I don’t feel too bad about being a double post. I’m also going to be an ass hole and tag a few people to attempt to generate life into a thread about a fun thing so, sorry not sorry.


Managed to send my longest project of the season, a V5
Fucker wasn’t even the highest grade I put down this season (2 incredibly soft V7’s were) but from first time touching it to sending took me almost a month of twice a week sessions.

Do any of you by chance have any experience with hang boarding? I just started recently and wanted to see if anyone had advice besides what I asked grok for because I’m a fucking idiot.

@AfghanBlue this is definitely a thread to shit up with your European climbing grade system. I don’t know what it is, but the font system infuriates me to look at. Just start the easiest thing at 0.

@CrunkLord420 I’m sorry to bother you but I saw you in the calisthenics thread which realistically is just introduction to rock climbing so I think you should go rock climbing and become even more powerful.

I'd probably be more interested if it was more accessible to me. I like calisthenics because I don't have to go to a gym, paying some petite bourgeois for the privilege of feeling like a cuck. Climbing does seem fun and satisfying.

 

[gildersleeve]

Climbing does seem fun and satisfying.

I enjoy climbing as a physical puzzle. You have a set route and it's up to you to figure out how to do it within your ability and skill. That's how I see it from my perspective.