Scale Model And Hobby General - 1/35 with new tooling

  • Want to keep track of this thread?
    Accounts can bookmark posts, watch threads for updates, and jump back to where you stopped reading.
    Create account
Stupid questions for the Tamiya painters.

I want a gloss black (which i will gloss varnish on top of) and Tamiya do it. Are Tamiya acrylic paints the same as other acrylics? I dont remember seeing so many hazardous warnings on other paints.

Spray cans, is it a primer and paint or just a paint? Debating using their sprays for all over colours.
 
Penne Dreadful said:
They're alcohol-based, not water, so not quite the same as most acrylics, although not unique either - I think Mr Hobby's Aqueous line is the same.
Click to expand...
Straight forward enough to use I assume?

I know to thin with alcohol but its literally for some round helmets I want to shine, hence the gloss
 
Mr Clark said:
Straight forward enough to use I assume?

I know to thin with alcohol but its literally for some round helmets I want to shine, hence the gloss
Click to expand...
Tamiya acrylics thin well with most acrylic thinners or Gunze Mr leveling thinner. They're quite easy to use in almost every application.
Kofi Drinka said:
Then use metallic paints.
Click to expand...
I personally like Tamiya XF-16 flat aluminum for some metallic highlights/chipping effects. It gets the message across without looking too jarring.
 
Judge Dredd said:
Even with my thick coats, most of my results still show the base coat through raised areas like cheeks. Recently I got Army Painter barbarian flesh and it's at least a workable skin colour, unlike previous ones, but I still need to do a second coat.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you're over-thinning, tbh. "Consistency of milk" is such a bad guideline, especially when told to someone who only drinks skimmed milk (aka "water that lies about being milk").
 
Going from a dull blade to a fresh one always means blood. It's almost ritualistic to cut yourself for being stupid. Your old blade barely worked so touching your finger didn't matter and after a month of needing to change it you finally do.. and then it's blood. Always.
 
teriyakiburns said:
Sounds like you're over-thinning, tbh. "Consistency of milk" is such a bad guideline
Click to expand...
I'll have to look into it more than. I'm currently on a different project where paint thinning isn't as important, but when I come back I'll revisit paint thinning. As of right now, I do have the colours I need in various in speedpaint/contrast paint, and since those are used (mostly) straight I'll give them a whirl and see how they turn out.

Got Gaslands today. Friend printed out the templates, and I spent an hour or two cutting them out, as well as making some crude gates and barriers out of card. Going to play a test game or two, and if we like it, will be putting together some gaslands cars and terrain.

Related. I recently saw some advice of using children's chalk or pastels to get pigment powder for a fraction of the cost. No idea if it'll work, but thought you might like to know.
 
Judge Dredd said:
I'll have to look into it more than. I'm currently on a different project where paint thinning isn't as important, but when I come back I'll revisit paint thinning.
Click to expand...
You always need to thin your paints. There's no project where thick paint is a good idea.
Judge Dredd said:
Related. I recently saw some advice of using children's chalk or pastels to get pigment powder for a fraction of the cost. No idea if it'll work, but thought you might like to know.
Click to expand...
Pastels work but it's messy.
 
In addition to armor, I also build early drag racing subjects in 1/25 scale. Since newly tooled kits are basically non-existent, a lot of kit-bashing, scratchbuilding, and aftermarket parts are required to build what you want. I fabricate much of what I need from brass and aluminum. All the machined stuff is made on an Emco-Maier tabletop lathe/mill. For airbrushes I use an Iwata Eclipse, and the trusty old Badger IL200.

This is a finished early 80's nitro funny car chassis. It's around 70% scratchbuilt. Frame is all silver soldered brass, I made items like the injector hat, valve covers, transmission housing, and a bunch of smaller items from turned/milled aluminum. Photo-etch and plumbing are Detail Master parts. Body for this one will be an Olds F/C shell from an 80's Monogram kit.

fc3.webp


fc2.webpfc1.webp

This is a mid 60's Tom "Mongoose" McEwen top fueler. Base model is an old MPC kit with parts from a 1320 kit and a Slixx decal sheet. Paint is Tamiya lacquer and Testors Metalizer.

mon1.webpmon3 2.webpmon2.webp

And a WIP dragster. Base model is another ancient MPC kit with parts from a couple of Revell kits. Plumbing is more Detail Master stuff, machined parts are mine.

pul3.webppul1.webppul2.webp
 
Last edited:
I have no proper setup/environment for airbrushing or even indoor spraypainting, but I've always had interest in hobby shit (even if I've been out of practice so no skill building for like half a decade due to family not liking me doing shit and scheduling never lining up for supply runs/weather not lining up for spraypainting)

Always wanted to make some small diorama shelf space I can cycle out various model kits and figures I've accumulated over my life, and sometime last year or so I came across this guy that just makes these little city spaces for his figures out of wood scraps from home depot and dollar tree that's helped me kind of piece together how to go about doing it once I manage to get the time (whenever that time may come).
I think this fits for this thread.
 
Last edited:
The Lawgiver said:
I have no proper setup/environment for airbrushing or even indoor spraypainting, but I've always had interest in hobby shit (even if I've been out of practice so no skill building for like half a decade due to family not liking me doing shit and weather never lining up for supply runs)

Always wanted to make some small diorama shelf space I can cycle out various model kits and figures I've accumulated over my life, and sometime last year or so I came across this guy that just makes these little city spaces for his figures out of wood scraps from home depot and dollar tree that's helped me kind of piece together how to go about doing it once I manage to get the time (whenever that time may come).
I think this fits for this thread.
Click to expand...
They look like shit in the video. The thumb nail is deceptive.

And he's a nigger putting star wars figures in dioramas with no painting or modifying.
 
Kofi Drinka said:
And he's a nigger putting star wars figures in dioramas with no painting or modifying.
Click to expand...
The thumbnail is literally just the same thing but not from a view of a camera going over it in a higher light situation. Also a bunch of the figures are actually customized, he goes over his process on how he does that in another one.
 
The Lawgiver said:
The thumbnail is literally just the same thing but not from a view of a camera going over it in a higher light situation. Also a bunch of the figures are actually customized, he goes over his process on how he does that in another one.
Click to expand...
Niggerslop.webp

Oh yes, the custom quality of covering the whole action figure in brown craft paint from the bottle and wiping it off with a paper towel.

This isn't scale modeling, it's nigger slop. No one would be watching this unless they're watching it to laugh at. It's disgusting action figure autism not scale modeling. Putting a jedi cloak on a storm trooper and slopping paint over stuff should be gate kept as hard as possible. Go find the action figure thread if this is your idea of quality model work. It's definitely not what this thread is for.
 
Kofi Drinka said:
Oh yes, the custom quality of covering the whole action figure in brown craft paint from the bottle and wiping it off with a paper towel.
Click to expand...
Either you're the shittiest baiter ever or you're actually retarded enough to not understand the common method of doing a wash with unthinned cheap craft paint to imitate heavy grime or rust buildup. Leaning towards the former.
 
Wahgonga said:
In addition to armor, I also build early drag racing subjects in 1/25 scale. Since newly tooled kits are basically non-existent, a lot of kit-bashing, scratchbuilding, and aftermarket parts are required to build what you want. I fabricate much of what I need from brass and aluminum. All the machined stuff is made on an Emco-Maier tabletop lathe/mill. For airbrushes I use an Iwata Eclipse, and the trusty old Badger IL200.

This is a finished early 80's nitro funny car chassis. It's around 70% scratchbuilt. Frame is all silver soldered brass, I made items like the injector hat, valve covers, transmission housing, and a bunch of smaller items from turned/milled aluminum. Photo-etch and plumbing are Detail Master parts. Body for this one will be an Olds F/C shell from an 80's Monogram kit.

View attachment 7888633

View attachment 7888636View attachment 7888634

This is a mid 60's Tom "Mongoose" McEwen top fueler. Base model is an old MPC kit with parts from a 1320 kit and a Slixx decal sheet. Paint is Tamiya lacquer and Testors Metalizer.

View attachment 7888683View attachment 7888684View attachment 7888685

And a WIP dragster. Base model is another ancient MPC kit with parts from a couple of Revell kits. Plumbing is more Detail Master stuff, machined parts are mine.

View attachment 7888686View attachment 7888688View attachment 7888691
Click to expand...
Never seen 1/25 before. Those look cool
 
The Lawgiver said:
Either you're the shittiest baiter ever or you're actually retarded enough to not understand the common method of doing a wash with unthinned cheap craft paint to imitate heavy grime or rust buildup. Leaning towards the former.
Click to expand...
Mate. I'm a modeler, I have actual skills in weathering a model. No one but the lowest niggers slop craft paint on things and rub it off with a paper towel. It's action figure slop, not scale modeling. Actual weathering involves very thin paints and washes because you don't want to gum up the detail and want to build up the grime and rust in multiple subtle layers.
 
Kofi Drinka said:
Mate. I'm a modeler, I have actual skills in weathering a model. No one but the lowest niggers slop craft paint on things and rub it off with a paper towel. It's action figure slop, not scale modeling. Actual weathering involves very thin paints and washes because you don't want to gum up the detail and want to build up the grime and rust in multiple subtle layers.
Click to expand...
:story:
Go build up the multiple subtle layers of your amhole you double nigger
 
Kofi Drinka said:
Mate. I'm a modeler, I have actual skills in weathering a model. No one but the lowest niggers slop craft paint on things and rub it off with a paper towel. It's action figure slop, not scale modeling. Actual weathering involves very thin paints and washes because you don't want to gum up the detail and want to build up the grime and rust in multiple subtle layers.
Click to expand...
scale models are toys bro
 
The Lawgiver said:
:story:
Go build up the multiple subtle layers of your amhole you double nigger
Click to expand...
Autistic action figure collector detected.

This is how you weather something. None of it involves slopping on paint so thick it looks like melted chocolate.
Local Hooker said:
scale models are toys bro
Click to expand...
And Canvases are bed sheets. Doesn't stop a painting being art.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom