Scale Model And Hobby General - 1/35 with new tooling

[The Lawgiver]

This is how you weather something. None of it involves slopping on paint so thick it looks like melted chocolate.

That's blatantly a different type of weathering than what the other guy was going for. In the video where he makes the building he literally does the "several subtle layers built up" type of weathering this video is doing.

 

[Kofi Drinka]

That's blatantly a different type of weathering than what the other guy was going for.

Yes. One is an artistic expression of dirt and grime on a model. The other is slapping brown paint on like some autistic child and gumming up all the detail to stain the plastic in the worst way possible.

 

[The Lawgiver]

Yes. One is an artistic expression of dirt and grime on a model. The other is slapping brown paint on like some autistic child and gumming up all the detail to stain the plastic in the worst way possible.

oh no the details getting gummed up nigga oh no the plastics getting stained

 

[Local Hooker]

And Canvases are bed sheets. Doesn't stop a painting being art.

It's been a while since I've talked to a blowhard faggot who takes grave offense at someone just having fun with their shit instead of taking 2 weeks and $100 worth of bullshit aftermarket products to subtly convey the details and weathering of their 17th Pz IV kit.

 

[The Lawgiver]

It's been a while since I've talked to a blowhard faggot who takes grave offense at someone just having fun with their shit instead of taking 2 weeks and $100 worth of bullshit aftermarket products to subtly convey the details and weathering of their 17th Pz IV kit.

Guy watched the building video that covered more advanced paint techniques, said the figures weren't customized at all, then ignored the earlier info and shifted the narrative to be about paint techniques when shown the video talking about basic techniques for modifying figures with simple grimey type washes being one of the things you can do. Fucker's just stirring shit and I'm having fun.

 

[Kofi Drinka]

It's been a while since I've talked to a blowhard faggot who takes grave offense at someone just having fun with their shit instead of taking 2 weeks and $100 worth of bullshit aftermarket products to subtly convey the details and weathering of their 17th Pz IV kit.

A brown wash will cost you less than $5s and do a better job then slapping chocolate paint on everything. The original star wars movies only use black wash for shading their movie model kits and they look better than nigger slop.

If you can't understand what is wrong with nigger pouring chocolate shit on his models you don't belong in a scale modeling thread. You're an autistic child.

 

[Local Hooker]

A brown wash will cost you less than $5s and do a better job then slapping chocolate paint on everything. The original star wars movies only use black wash for shading their movie model kits and they look better than nigger slop.

If you can't understand what is wrong with nigger pouring chocolate shit on his models you don't belong in a scale modeling thread. You're an autistic child.

looks to me like the nigger pouring chocolate wash worked fine for the purpose without having to special order in a new pre mixed wash (lmao)

 

[The Lawgiver]

looks to me like the nigger pouring chocolate wash worked fine for the purpose without having to special order in a new pre mixed wash (lmao)

He's just bringing up something literally mentioned in the video talking about black washes being better for vehicles and stains and warping it.

Spoiler: Timestamp

 

[Kofi Drinka]

He's just bringing up something literally mentioned in the video talking about black washes being better for vehicles and stains and warping it.

Spoiler: Timestamp

Let me spell this out for you as clearly as possible.

This nigger does not know what he is doing. He has no skill or knowledge worth listening to. I am not quoting him because he's a fucking idiot.

I know what I'm talking about. I can't post my work because it's the farms but if I ever did something this stupid I would be hiding in shame not making youtube videos. Stop defending this garbage and get a clue. It's unacceptable.

 

[The Lawgiver]

I can't post my work because it's the farms

So anyway, hows yo sess leif?

 

[Local Hooker]

Let me spell this out for you as clearly as possible.

This nigger does not know what he is doing. He has no skill or knowledge worth listening to. I am not quoting him because he's a fucking idiot.

I know what I'm talking about. I can't post my work because it's the farms but if I ever did something this stupid I would be hiding in shame not making youtube videos. Stop defending this garbage and get a clue. It's unacceptable.

Oh my heckin details, did this guy just use CRAFT STORE PAINT? On his TOYS?????? I'm reporting him straight to Mig Jimenez for a wrongthink and failing to use the correct pre-approved product™ for his hobby endeavors!

 

[Junkers 87]

Recently I've been painting my Bolt Action guys, and it's been a disaster. Constant problems have resulted in a mess of a paint job. I tried so many techniques and products (mostly for skin) that by the time I found something workable, any detail has been completely obliterated. Not to count the constant gaps where a previous attempts shows through or taint the colour on top.

Making this worse is set up and teardown time is eating into my hobby time more than I'd like. 10-15 minutes setting up a palette, paint, water, cleaning, etc. doesn't sound like a lot, but when you're doing a few test models then packing up, or getting interrupted 30 minutes later to do something, it compounds the frustration.

If you're using acrylics, it sounds like a wet palette is perfect for you. One of the problems with brush painting, even with proper thinning, is that paint tends to dry out on a regular palette. This makes it difficult to apply multiple thin coats, since the paint changes consistency as it dries, which can cause visible brush strokes. A wet palette keeps your paint fresh, so your layers come out more consistent and it becomes easier to gradually build up colors with each coat. You can also store paints in it for a couple of days, which is helpful if you can only work in short sessions.

Another alternative is to brush with enamel paints, which self level and require fewer coats. The downside is that they take a long time to dry, and the fumes are a health hazard.

 

[The Lawgiver]

If you're using acrylics, it sounds like a wet palette is perfect for you. One of the problems with brush painting, even with proper thinning, is that paint tends to dry out on a regular palette. This makes it difficult to apply multiple thin coats, since the paint changes consistency as it dries, which can cause visible brush strokes. A wet palette keeps your paint fresh, so your layers come out more consistent and it becomes easier to gradually build up colors with each coat. You can also store paints in it for a couple of days, which is helpful if you can only work in short sessions.

It's not perfect, but the method I've started using the last few things I've painted recently is to get several disposable plastic cups, put water in each for each paint color, and then have a secondary 1 or 2 cups to put the various paint colors in. I then get my brush wet and keep wiping it on a paper towel when I think it's too wet tot he point it'll fuck up the paint. An issue with acrylics i've noticed lately despite them being my go to forever is how a lot of them, even the hobby grade pre-thinned ones now are weirdly both too thin and too thick when going on. It's likely less egregious given I'm using them for figurines rather than vehicles Since some kits I'm interested in have been getting prohibitively expensive I've been using either discounted toys or those little figurines of movie and TV shit you could get from that little rotating stand at barnes and noble a couple years back. I'm clearly building towards something here, but for as what that something is has not fully revealed itself to me. All I know is it involves a lot of tiny robot figures.

I've seen a lot of instances of wet palettes becoming mold nightmares so i don't know if it's really better or worse that I've got an autistic plastic cup setup I made on the fly one day with barely any fucking money. They're useful still though which is what counts i think.

Oh my heckin details, did this guy just use CRAFT STORE PAINT? On his TOYS?????? I'm reporting him straight to Mig Jimenez for a wrongthink and failing to use the correct pre-approved product™ for his hobby endeavors!

In terms of craft paints, I've used the "color shift silver flash" paint on some models I've worked on recently. It's got that problem of "too thin but too thick" but I just thinned it down and put it over in several layers over a black primer. Might have been able to make it look better if I did like 3 or 4 more layers but with the primer layer slightly exposed it creates a realistic looking weathering effect already so I just didn't bother making things potentially too thick. it's actually a really great shade of silver once you get a few coats on, almost looks like realistic metal if you do it right.

 

[FatMebius]

I bought a whole bunch of new waterslides. Gonna build something this weekend. Not sure what. I just got the new 1/100 Bandai VF-31J in. Might do that.

 

[Judge Dredd]

Never seen 1/25 before. Those look cool

There's a lot of vehicle models in that scale. Usually old cars and motorcycles. Tamiya makes a bunch. I don't remember if the trucks that have started appearing in my "local" hobby shop are 1/25, but they're bigger than typical fare.

I think 1/18 or 1/12 is as big as they get, but that's remote control cars I think?

If you're using acrylics, it sounds like a wet palette is perfect for you.

I'm using a home made wet palette. A plastic tray with a lid, a sponge cloth, and some greaseproof paper. It kind of works in that it keeps the paint usable for a while. Though I've not had much luck with the whole "put the lid on it and come back later" thing. I always have to set it up each time which adds to the set up and tear down time.

Another alternative is to brush with enamel paints, which self level and require fewer coats. The downside is that they take a long time to dry, and the fumes are a health hazard.

I heard enamals were horrific. I don't know if anyone still makes them? I bought some Tamiya sprays a while ago, and heard I shouldn't use them with acrylics because they're alcohol based? I don't know.

I'm trying to get a bolt action army painted in reasonable time on a reasonable budget to a reasonable standard. Along with some sci-fi armies (or squads) for a similar reason. I don't want to stir up the last couple pages of argument, but I'm going for a tabletop standard, not a golden demon or crystal brush. I'm not colour matching with World War 2 era clothing dyes. Just some colours that are close enough. Kofi isn't going to like this video but-

I'm not on that extreme of a time limit, but you get the idea. (I have that exact kit too. It's fun. Kit bashing it with some sci-fi guns)

Speaking of which.

You always need to thin your paints. There's no project where thick paint is a good idea.

I am thinning my paints.

My point is, with diecast cars there isn't that much detail to gum up. And since it's the dark future post-apocalypse type of game, it's much more forgiving of mistakes. If it's too thin, then it's faded paint. If it's too thick, then it's some grungy car. There's no canon colour scheme for the end result is compared to. It's not like bolt action/world war 2 minis where the figures having pale, green tinted skin and no eyes is a problem.
(Not mine, posted for example)

 

[Junkers 87]

I've seen a lot of instances of wet palettes becoming mold nightmares so i don't know if it's really better or worse that I've got an autistic plastic cup setup I made on the fly one day with barely any fucking money. They're useful still though which is what counts i think.

Yeah, that can happen. I've never had it happen to me but I've seen enough warnings about mold to believe it.

If your own setup gets you the results you want, then that's fine and you should stick with it.

I'm using a home made wet palette. A plastic tray with a lid, a sponge cloth, and some greaseproof paper. It kind of works in that it keeps the paint usable for a while. Though I've not had much luck with the whole "put the lid on it and come back later" thing. I always have to set it up each time which adds to the set up and tear down time.

And here I was thinking I found the solution to your problems. I use a cheapo $10 wet palette, but DIY version shouldn't really be all that different since it's not exactly a sophisticated tool. Are you priming your models or lightly sanding them before painting? Acrylic paints tend to have some difficulty breaking the initial surface tension on bare plastic. Applying a primer or lightly sanding your model in the absence of primer helps the initial base coat stick, which then makes subsequent coats easier to build up

I heard enamals were horrific. I don't know if anyone still makes them? I bought some Tamiya sprays a while ago, and heard I shouldn't use them with acrylics because they're alcohol based? I don't know.

Thinking back on it, I probably shouldn't have suggested enamels in the first place. Enamels are the OG of modeling paints. They're the easiest type of paint to brush with and get good results, but the curing time is measured in days, sometimes weeks. During that time you have to store the model away from dust and other debris that will be impossible to remove without ruining the paint. Most modelers have moved away from them as their primary paint and just use them in highly diluted washes.

As for Tamiya sprays, I'd need more context as to what the sprays are exactly. Tamiya paints will eat through (water-based) acrylics that they're applied over, but the opposite is not true and you can apply acrylics over Tamiya with no issue.

I'm trying to get a bolt action army painted in reasonable time on a reasonable budget to a reasonable standard. Along with some sci-fi armies (or squads) for a similar reason. I don't want to stir up the last couple pages of argument, but I'm going for a tabletop standard, not a golden demon or crystal brush. I'm not colour matching with World War 2 era clothing dyes. Just some colours that are close enough. Kofi isn't going to like this video but-

You'll get faster as you gain proficiency through practice, but it's good to keep in mind that in modeling, some results just take as much time as they need.

 

[Wahgonga]

There's a lot of vehicle models in that scale. Usually old cars and motorcycles. Tamiya makes a bunch. I don't remember if the trucks that have started appearing in my "local" hobby shop are 1/25, but they're bigger than typical fare.

I think 1/18 or 1/12 is as big as they get, but that's remote control cars I think

1/25 and 1/24 scale are the most produced model car and truck scales. Tamiya, Hasegawa, and other Japanese manufacturers are typically 1/24, where US manufactured kits are usually 1/25. No huge dimensional difference between the two.

Although there are some car kits in 1/18, that scale is almost exclusively pre-built diecast models that can range from dismal to fantastic. Although there are R/C cars in 1/12 scale, most models in that scale these days are motorcycles and static car kits made by Hasegawa, Tamiya, Italeri, and Meng. The most common R/C car scale is 1/10. Tamiya also makes a line of 1/14 scale R/C semi trucks.

The big 1/12 scale Tamiya car kits are damn nice despite their age. I have the re-release of the Martini Porsche 935. One of these days I'll clear the bench and get started on it.

 

[The Lawgiver]

If your own setup gets you the results you want, then that's fine and you should stick with it.

Only issue is now I have a shitload of disposable plastic cups in a neatly stacked pile I'm not sure if I want to try and make something out of or dispose. noticed just tonight that they're oddly a perfect height matchup for 1/18 scale shit as a weird cheap shitty table so there's likely other uses I could squeeze out of them.

EDIT: Just made the weird discovery that the water bottle caps I've been saving from various spring waters I've been having fit perfectly down into the middle of the recess of the stacking part of the disposable cups. I'm likely not the first to notice this, but I'm getting ideas already.

 

[Car Won't Crank]

Zvezda is by far the best for scale airliner kits. Hasegawa would be next.

 

[Kofi Drinka]

I'm using a home made wet palette. A plastic tray with a lid, a sponge cloth, and some greaseproof paper. It kind of works in that it keeps the paint usable for a while. Though I've not had much luck with the whole "put the lid on it and come back later" thing. I always have to set it up each time which adds to the set up and tear down time.

Your set up isn't working if you can't come back to paint. But you shouldn't be learning to thin with one of those because it messes with your ratios. Get an old plate. Paint work time should be about 30 minutes but you can always add more water to keep it thinner longer.

I heard enamals were horrific. I don't know if anyone still makes them? I bought some Tamiya sprays a while ago, and heard I shouldn't use them with acrylics because they're alcohol based? I don't know.

Enamels are nasty things and can damage kits. I had a kit damaged by them because they're so hot. They were used in the past because they were the only option with good coverage but acrylics have long surpassed them.

My point is, with diecast cars there isn't that much detail to gum up. And since it's the dark future post-apocalypse type of game, it's much more forgiving of mistakes. If it's too thin, then it's faded paint. If it's too thick, then it's some grungy car. There's no canon colour scheme for the end result is compared to. It's not like bolt action/world war 2 minis where the figures having pale, green tinted skin and no eyes is a problem.

That's a cope. It's a way to excuse your failure. If you aren't getting a consistent paint job you need to find out why and fix it.

Sonic Sledge is one of the best newbie tutorial makers on youtube. Find your faction and do exactly what he does and you will have decent tabletop minis.