- Joined
- Aug 24, 2024
Never heard of this sonic dude. This guy's stuff is primo content.
Scale Model And Hobby General - 1/35 with new tooling
- Thread starter Judge Dredd
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- Joined
- Dec 1, 2021
Here's my recipe for washes and basic weathering. I use Windsor and Newton fast-drying oil paints thinned with Mona Lisa brand odorless thinner. A tube of black, white, and burnt umber is enough to get you started.
I paint all of my armor models with Tamiya acrylics. I've not tried this method over any other brand or type of paint. Once your paint has cured and your decals applied, you apply the wash directly to the model, no clear coat is needed. I'll use a basic desert tan painted model as an example. Mix 1 part straight burnt umber with approximately 10 parts thinner. More or less thinner will give you a visually heavier or lighter effect. Use a good quality sable or camel hair brush to apply the wash to the model.
You'll find that oil paint washes naturally flow into recesses very smoothly with really consistent results. Let the wash cure overnight and go ahead with your preferred method of dry brushing. I use acrylics followed by a clear flat overcoat to seal it all up. I then add a bit of brushed on powdered pastel chalks to appropriate spots to simulate things like minor rust, carbon scoring, etc. It's important to apply your pastels after you clear coat, otherwise your pastels will basically disappear when the clear is applied.
The results can be as subtle or as stark as you want. I tend to go with less is more when weathering. Here are some examples. The soft top frame and corrugated sides of this 1/16 Kubelwagen shows the subtle oil wash effect well-
The oil wash really brings out the counter-sunk screw heads on the turret roof of this 1/35 Pz III as well as the various hinges and tools-
You can also recreate effects like the lighter German Grey paint wearing away to reveal the darker phosphate primer underneath like the edges of the armor shield on this 1/15 Pak 37 gun using a dark grey wash-
Oil washes are very consistent as well as forgiving for the novice. Feel free to experiment with color blends and thinner ratios. A quick note on decals. When applying them to models painted in flat colors like armor, it helps to airbrush a small patch of gloss clear where the decal is going to be applied. The gloss allows the decal to lay down nice and tight, especially if you use a setting solution. And when you do your final flat clear coat, the decal film edges will disappear, avoiding what's commonly called "silvering".
I paint all of my armor models with Tamiya acrylics. I've not tried this method over any other brand or type of paint. Once your paint has cured and your decals applied, you apply the wash directly to the model, no clear coat is needed. I'll use a basic desert tan painted model as an example. Mix 1 part straight burnt umber with approximately 10 parts thinner. More or less thinner will give you a visually heavier or lighter effect. Use a good quality sable or camel hair brush to apply the wash to the model.
You'll find that oil paint washes naturally flow into recesses very smoothly with really consistent results. Let the wash cure overnight and go ahead with your preferred method of dry brushing. I use acrylics followed by a clear flat overcoat to seal it all up. I then add a bit of brushed on powdered pastel chalks to appropriate spots to simulate things like minor rust, carbon scoring, etc. It's important to apply your pastels after you clear coat, otherwise your pastels will basically disappear when the clear is applied.
The results can be as subtle or as stark as you want. I tend to go with less is more when weathering. Here are some examples. The soft top frame and corrugated sides of this 1/16 Kubelwagen shows the subtle oil wash effect well-
The oil wash really brings out the counter-sunk screw heads on the turret roof of this 1/35 Pz III as well as the various hinges and tools-
You can also recreate effects like the lighter German Grey paint wearing away to reveal the darker phosphate primer underneath like the edges of the armor shield on this 1/15 Pak 37 gun using a dark grey wash-
Oil washes are very consistent as well as forgiving for the novice. Feel free to experiment with color blends and thinner ratios. A quick note on decals. When applying them to models painted in flat colors like armor, it helps to airbrush a small patch of gloss clear where the decal is going to be applied. The gloss allows the decal to lay down nice and tight, especially if you use a setting solution. And when you do your final flat clear coat, the decal film edges will disappear, avoiding what's commonly called "silvering".
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- Joined
- Dec 1, 2021
Thread's been kind of quiet. Here's some new WIP stuff.
I picked up the re-release of the Tamiya 1/12 scale Martini Porsche 935 sometime last year. Got started on it this past week. This current iteration has cleaned up tooling, new tires, Cartograph decals, and a bunch of "Detail Up" upgrades plus a nice sheet of stainless photo-etch.
Started with cleaning up the parting lines on the main body and front clip, and bolting the basics together to check fit with the chassis tub. I also put together the basic stripped engine block and transaxle. Fit isn't bad at all for a kit that was originally released in 1976. Just working up a preliminary plan for paint, and what I want to do as far as possibly fabricating machined aluminum replacements for certain parts.
And I picked up another old Tamiya 1/12 kit I've been looking for. The 1/12 Renault RE20. Saw this kit in a LHS window when it first came out in the early 80's. The box art really was an eye-catcher. Wished I'd have bought it then.
Now it's another re-release with new updated stuff similar to the 935. Always liked the look and paint scheme of this one. I've built a few 1/20 scale F1 models over the years, but I've never built a 1/12 scale F1 car. Gorgeous plastic for its age, should be a fun build.
I picked up the re-release of the Tamiya 1/12 scale Martini Porsche 935 sometime last year. Got started on it this past week. This current iteration has cleaned up tooling, new tires, Cartograph decals, and a bunch of "Detail Up" upgrades plus a nice sheet of stainless photo-etch.
Started with cleaning up the parting lines on the main body and front clip, and bolting the basics together to check fit with the chassis tub. I also put together the basic stripped engine block and transaxle. Fit isn't bad at all for a kit that was originally released in 1976. Just working up a preliminary plan for paint, and what I want to do as far as possibly fabricating machined aluminum replacements for certain parts.
And I picked up another old Tamiya 1/12 kit I've been looking for. The 1/12 Renault RE20. Saw this kit in a LHS window when it first came out in the early 80's. The box art really was an eye-catcher. Wished I'd have bought it then.
Now it's another re-release with new updated stuff similar to the 935. Always liked the look and paint scheme of this one. I've built a few 1/20 scale F1 models over the years, but I've never built a 1/12 scale F1 car. Gorgeous plastic for its age, should be a fun build.
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- Joined
- Oct 2, 2023
Where do you guys get paints online? My local hobby shops don't have what I'm looking for (mostly Vallejo game color) and I snagged some Mr Color stuff for my air brush. I can't find MrColor gloss black anywhere. I got the leveling thinners needed and now I'm struggling to find other paints of the same type? Accidentally ended up with some water based paints that I'm not sure I can layer with the lacquer ones. Honestly to keep it easy I just want to stick to one brand and line. Why is paint so hard?
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2021
I really like Newtype. Not sure if you're in the States, but they're good. They run a ton of sales and they're always really quick too.
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2023
Appreciate it I'll give them a shot, looks like they have what I need in stock. Tried sprue bros but they were out of stock.
I assume I can use these water based Mr hobby Acrysion over lacquer but not the other way around?
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2021
That is correct.
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2018
Not sure if I should post this here or in miniature games. Let me know.
Made some progress on terrain crafting. Some problems too, but things are going well overall.
Made the 2 hour trip to the nearest major craft shop. Was surprised to see them sell model kits, but I guess it makes sense. I did find was a bunch of (sometimes overpriced) materials like cork sheets, corrugated card, etc. No luck on finding a UK equivalent to the mythical "50c hobby lobby brush" or "Graphx medium chip board".
I was very tempted to buy a £10 bucket of army men because they came with terrain and even had near future sci-fi sculpts instead of the usual cold war theme.
From what I can tell, the soldiers are about 32mm scale, but the terrain seems like it would be a good fit for 28mm figures. Good mix of weapons too. Not sure how they'd paint up.
My goal at present is to create a small tables worth of terrain for a skirmish game. Torn between an industrial wasteland ruins theme, or a World War 2 eastern Europe theme, leaning towards the former because I prefer sci-fi. It's the same stuff for most of the terrain, but will be based and painted differently. Bombed out buildings, craters, that kind of thing. Though with industrial I can have more fun building makeshift barricades.
So far I have the traditional corner ruins made from foamboard (that kind of match my shitty cardboard ones I made previously). A makeshift walkway made of lolly sticks. Some lolly stick country fencing (for WW2) and I'm working on some kind of small building made of a cereal bar box. A ladder made of BBQ skewers and match sticks. BBQ skewers are a favourite material of mine. Easy to work with, cheap, and with so many uses. I even use them to pin foamboard into place.
One bit of advice to those crafting inclined working with wood like lolly sticks. All the tutorials recommend using hobby clippers, but some gardening secateurs make the job much easier. If you need accuracy, use clipper to squeeze the cut point then as leverage to snap it neatly.
Made some progress on terrain crafting. Some problems too, but things are going well overall.
Made the 2 hour trip to the nearest major craft shop. Was surprised to see them sell model kits, but I guess it makes sense. I did find was a bunch of (sometimes overpriced) materials like cork sheets, corrugated card, etc. No luck on finding a UK equivalent to the mythical "50c hobby lobby brush" or "Graphx medium chip board".
I was very tempted to buy a £10 bucket of army men because they came with terrain and even had near future sci-fi sculpts instead of the usual cold war theme.
From what I can tell, the soldiers are about 32mm scale, but the terrain seems like it would be a good fit for 28mm figures. Good mix of weapons too. Not sure how they'd paint up.
My goal at present is to create a small tables worth of terrain for a skirmish game. Torn between an industrial wasteland ruins theme, or a World War 2 eastern Europe theme, leaning towards the former because I prefer sci-fi. It's the same stuff for most of the terrain, but will be based and painted differently. Bombed out buildings, craters, that kind of thing. Though with industrial I can have more fun building makeshift barricades.
So far I have the traditional corner ruins made from foamboard (that kind of match my shitty cardboard ones I made previously). A makeshift walkway made of lolly sticks. Some lolly stick country fencing (for WW2) and I'm working on some kind of small building made of a cereal bar box. A ladder made of BBQ skewers and match sticks. BBQ skewers are a favourite material of mine. Easy to work with, cheap, and with so many uses. I even use them to pin foamboard into place.
One bit of advice to those crafting inclined working with wood like lolly sticks. All the tutorials recommend using hobby clippers, but some gardening secateurs make the job much easier. If you need accuracy, use clipper to squeeze the cut point then as leverage to snap it neatly.
- Joined
- May 21, 2025
What's the best way in your opinion to sell some of your kits? I'm looking to downsize my unreasonably large collection a bit.
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2025
Don't all the old men offload their stuff on facebook? That or Ebay.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2021
Facebook Marketplace seems to be the place for boomers to dump stuff. I've seen people finding some good hauls on Craigslist too.
Mr Clark
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2022
FB marketplace or ebay.
Former you meet in person and less chance for scams. Lower chance of selling because someone has to be interested and live nearby.
Ebay just make sure you get tracking and package it nice because people will scam and complain about the smallest things
Former you meet in person and less chance for scams. Lower chance of selling because someone has to be interested and live nearby.
Ebay just make sure you get tracking and package it nice because people will scam and complain about the smallest things
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2025
Buy and trade groups exist for most hobbies.
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2021
Here's a pair of recently completed cars.
I like the old Dodge muscle cars. First one is a 1/24 MPC 1971 Charger R/T. Paint is Tamiya lacquer mixed to match a paint chip of the factory color called "Citron Yella". Second car is an ACME 1/24 1970 Challenger. It's a metal body kit, and the paint is PPG automotive lacquer. The color is "Sublime Green".
Both cars are built straight from the box with no aftermarket upgrades.
I like the old Dodge muscle cars. First one is a 1/24 MPC 1971 Charger R/T. Paint is Tamiya lacquer mixed to match a paint chip of the factory color called "Citron Yella". Second car is an ACME 1/24 1970 Challenger. It's a metal body kit, and the paint is PPG automotive lacquer. The color is "Sublime Green".
Both cars are built straight from the box with no aftermarket upgrades.
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- Joined
- Aug 23, 2018
Got some Stargrave kits. Been having fun with those. Wargames Atlantic might have more interesting subject matter, but all Northstar kits I've tried so far have just been so fun to build. Kit bashing has been great too, and like the chunky art style.
On the complete opposite end of the scale. Victrix late war Germans (nazis) are cheap but they're annoying to put together. The kits only go together one way, but having to line up and glue individual forearms? No thank you.
I tried some paint pens. Too early to tell for sure, but I like them so far. @Mr Clark was right on the money. I managed to get some test figures base coated and I'm happy with the results.
What I like (so far)
On the complete opposite end of the scale. Victrix late war Germans (nazis) are cheap but they're annoying to put together. The kits only go together one way, but having to line up and glue individual forearms? No thank you.
I tried some paint pens. Too early to tell for sure, but I like them so far. @Mr Clark was right on the money. I managed to get some test figures base coated and I'm happy with the results.
What I like (so far)
- Price. Cheaper than buying paints.
- No thin or mixing.
- No set up and teardown time. This is the real selling point for me. Not having to set up wet palettes and clean brushes. If I'm interrupted I can just pop the top on and set it down. This is one of if not the biggest benefit for me.
- Easy to store. They're just pens.
- Good coverage. One, sometimes two coats is enough.
- Primer optional. I've had success painting straight to plastic with little to no issues.
- Dots. Painting gun barrels, lasers, etc has been a breeze. Just a dot.
- My mistakes are my mistakes. No arguments over paint thickness, or that I'm using the wrong brand of brush or paint.
- Fat. Getting into narrow spaces is way more tricky than with a brush.
- Colour match. Some of the colours don't match where they're supposed to be. eg. A red might be more of a pink. Olive Green appears to be a vomit yellow, that sort of thing. I've taken to painting the tops of the pens.
- Colour selection. Art pens (which are useable) have a lot of pastels and pinks, but model pens (I tried the AK ones) have a strangely limited selection. A bunch of tans and green, but only one or two blues, no off black or grey. I'm going to try speed/contrast paints over the top to see if I can get more colour that way.
- Obvious things. No effects like dry brushing, no mixing unless you want to risk damaging the pens, that kind of thing.
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2021
Saw this new release news this morning. An all-new tooling Airfix 1/24 Bf 109 G-5/6. Looks pretty damn good.
I've added another large scale car project to the cue. Picked up a Meng 1/12 1988 McLaren MP 4/4. It's my first Meng kit, and upon first inspection, it's impressive. A multimedia kit with all sorts of neat shit. It has some of the cleanest, best fitting injection molded parts I've seen. The metal, machined aluminum, and photo-etch parts are gorgeous. It also came with a "detail up" set from an outfit called Hobby Design with even more etched and machined parts.
A significant car in F1 history. Looking forward to starting this one.
I've added another large scale car project to the cue. Picked up a Meng 1/12 1988 McLaren MP 4/4. It's my first Meng kit, and upon first inspection, it's impressive. A multimedia kit with all sorts of neat shit. It has some of the cleanest, best fitting injection molded parts I've seen. The metal, machined aluminum, and photo-etch parts are gorgeous. It also came with a "detail up" set from an outfit called Hobby Design with even more etched and machined parts.
A significant car in F1 history. Looking forward to starting this one.
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2018
Might be more of a miniatures games post, but it's mostly model related so I'll post here (or both places).
I got the complete set of AK real colour markers. They've been fantastic. I think I've praised them before, but for my needs they're just what I want. As someone who doesn't have a dedicated hobby room, and often gets interrupted by stupid shit, markers are fantastic.
Got myself the Konflikt 47 starter box. Haven't had time to build the contents yet due to said interruptions, but I'm looking into alternatives, such as a cheap folding card table or a dinner tray with a padded bottom to act as a portable "desk".
A side effect of all this is I finally got my test group of Bolt Action German Veterans painted to what I would consider tabletop standard. Base colours, a green wash for the uniforms, and a generic wash for the rest, though I don't like the muddy effect it puts on the skin. I can post pictures if people want, though they're nothing special. Point is, I'm 99% of the way to having this figured out for painting a whole army/box.
However, my work was immediately shot down as they weren't "historically accurate". With "Germans didn't wear green, they wore grey!" and "that's the wrong shade of green!". This was annoying as my research led me to all sorts of answers that vary based on theatre, unit, or year.
However, the AK real colour markers share a name (and I assume paint) with their "real colour" paint range designed for the purpose of recreating period accurate minis. All I've got to do is match the pen names with the prepackaged paint sets.
Konflikt 47, being a sci-fi game, hopefully avoids this problem, as I wanted to paint my soviets in a Red Alert 2-like scheme.
And I'm going to be pissed if I put all this time and money into a game only to have people refuse to play because I painted my toy soldiers "wrong".
(And yes, I have been tempted by this model. A semi-local shop sells the Kintov Airship, but I ever see this it'll be hard to resist.)
I got the complete set of AK real colour markers. They've been fantastic. I think I've praised them before, but for my needs they're just what I want. As someone who doesn't have a dedicated hobby room, and often gets interrupted by stupid shit, markers are fantastic.
Got myself the Konflikt 47 starter box. Haven't had time to build the contents yet due to said interruptions, but I'm looking into alternatives, such as a cheap folding card table or a dinner tray with a padded bottom to act as a portable "desk".
A side effect of all this is I finally got my test group of Bolt Action German Veterans painted to what I would consider tabletop standard. Base colours, a green wash for the uniforms, and a generic wash for the rest, though I don't like the muddy effect it puts on the skin. I can post pictures if people want, though they're nothing special. Point is, I'm 99% of the way to having this figured out for painting a whole army/box.
However, my work was immediately shot down as they weren't "historically accurate". With "Germans didn't wear green, they wore grey!" and "that's the wrong shade of green!". This was annoying as my research led me to all sorts of answers that vary based on theatre, unit, or year.
However, the AK real colour markers share a name (and I assume paint) with their "real colour" paint range designed for the purpose of recreating period accurate minis. All I've got to do is match the pen names with the prepackaged paint sets.
Konflikt 47, being a sci-fi game, hopefully avoids this problem, as I wanted to paint my soviets in a Red Alert 2-like scheme.
And I'm going to be pissed if I put all this time and money into a game only to have people refuse to play because I painted my toy soldiers "wrong".
(And yes, I have been tempted by this model. A semi-local shop sells the Kintov Airship, but I ever see this it'll be hard to resist.)
Junkers 87
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2024
???
The rivet counters are wrong on this one. The Germans didn't always wear field grey.
The Heer and Fallschirmjager had smocks and helmet covers that were issued in splinter and marsh patterns, both of which were green. Some of them had white fabric interiors that could be turned inside out for snow camouflage too. The Waffen SS had four different camo patterns that used green as a base.
If we want to be really gay about it, field grey itself is a grey-green color. Also, towards the end of the war, the dye lots for uniforms became less consistent and some uniforms did have a more drab-green appearance with less grey.
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2018
