Sewing, Mending, and Tailoring Thread - Necessary skills for putting your anime girl patches on your mallninja gear.

[Otis Mallebrok]

Which type of sewing machine is preferable? The type where you insert the bobbin from the top and it lies horizontally? Or the type where you put the bobbin into a little housing and insert the housing vertically?

 

[Less Nasty Old Person]

Which type of sewing machine is preferable? The type where you insert the bobbin from the top and it lies horizontally? Or the type where you put the bobbin into a little housing and insert the housing vertically?

Whichever type you end up with, make sure it's mechanical rather than electronic or computerized. The latter two are expensive/impossible to repair if the electronics fail.

Frontloaders seem to be less expensive than toploaders but I'm not sure why. I have one of each, a low end Janome mechanical frontloader, and a higher end Janome mechanical toploader. Both will happily crunch through multiple layers of denim.

The toploaders are a little quicker to rethread when replacing the bobbin. Both types seem to work equally well in my experience. The bobbins are not compatible between top and front loaders.

Keep a spare bobbin case around if you have a frontloader. These eventually wear out and no longer maintain the correct tension on the bobbin thread.

 

[lolnah]

Which type of sewing machine is preferable? The type where you insert the bobbin from the top and it lies horizontally? Or the type where you put the bobbin into a little housing and insert the housing vertically?

If you're just learning, any cheap basic sewing machine will do. My newest machine has a top-load bobbin with no bobbin case and I find that preferable because I don't have to worry about losing bobbin cases and adjusting the bobbin tension with the screw on the side of the case. Bobbin cases are pretty inexpensive and easy to replace, though, so it's not an issue if you pick one of those up instead. @Less Nasty Old Person is very correct about the electronics, if those go you're very screwed and it's cheaper to replace the whole machine than have it serviced - I had a Husqvarna machine die a horrible death that way, it got wet in a flood and was fried. My manual Singer from the 50's was fine after I cleaned her up and reoiled her. A cheap basic machine is great for beginners so you can learn the basics of understanding tension, thread weight, and basic stitches before trying anything advanced. I really like the old heavy ass machines that are built into cabinets, but the cabinet often has limited table space so keep that in mind.

 

[HahaYes]

I have decided for my current project to hand sew the 27 eyelets it has, not entirely sure yet if it was a smart idea but it's fun so eh

Keep a spare bobbin case around if you have a frontloader. These eventually wear out and no longer maintain the correct tension on the bobbin thread.

Yeah tbh it tends to be a good idea to keep a few spare bobbins around regardless of the loader position just incase, without it if you really need a machine you're a bit screwed and have to wait until you can purchase a new one

 

[JanuaryViolet]

I have decided for my current project to hand sew the 27 eyelets it has, not entirely sure yet if it was a smart idea but it's fun so eh

If they're done well, they'll last a very long time. Just make sure they're big enough to accomodate the aiglet on your lacing string. (Historical tailor here.)

 

[HahaYes]

If they're done well, they'll last a very long time. Just make sure they're big enough to accomodate the aiglet on your lacing string. (Historical tailor here.)

100% yeah I've definitely made sure to account for the aiglets and periodically check they can still fit through, that would be an absolute nightmare if I got to the end and realised I couldn't lace the thing anymore lmao. Also nice, might honestly be too much of a PL/too identifiable so feel free not to answer this but what era/century do you tend to work in?

 

[JanuaryViolet]

identifiable so feel free not to answer this but what era/century do you tend to work in?

You can message me.

 

[𝕺𝖑' 𝕯𝖎𝖗𝖙𝖞 𝕱𝖆𝖙𝖘𝖔]

Which type of sewing machine is preferable? The type where you insert the bobbin from the top and it lies horizontally? Or the type where you put the bobbin into a little housing and insert the housing vertically?

I've only ever used machines that have a bobbin case, both industrial and domestic, so those tend to be my suggestion. The top loading ones seem to be mostly prevalent on cheaper newer domestic machines. It's a good idea to get an old mechanical only machine as others have said and generally tinker with and clean/oil everything yourself, knowing how the machine works inside and out will save you a lot of frustration and money.

Dealing with bobbin case tension is nbd despite previous replies, you just need a small flat screwdriver to tweak it slightly like once a year (ime, and I sew daily) lol

 

[Less Nasty Old Person]

Dealing with bobbin case tension is nbd despite previous replies, you just need a small flat screwdriver to tweak it slightly like once a year (ime, and I sew daily) lol

The bobbin cases last a few years depending on use in my experience before the tension screw gets stripped. Spares are essential especially on older or vintage machines.

 

[Sperg_rancher]

I don't sew that much, so this may be an obvious thing to experienced folk.
What materials tools and techniques would you choose to sew ripstop nylon? Particularly lightweight ripstop (<3 oz/yd)?

 

[kes8]

Sewing machines are to equal printers as being temperamental beasts confined the the ninth circle of hell. You buy a 70's vintage old sewing machine from a secondhand store and think, surely these are more durable than modern sewing machines. Well, the sewing machines from the 70's still have plastic gears.

I bought a vintage 70's singer and it had plastic gears that crumbled away immediately in the rotating hook and foot feed parts of the mechanism. I was able obtain parts, and re time the machine. Its a lot like setting up the camshaft of a car.

Someone gifted me an old Bernina, that was better than the singer I fixed up. I repaired some high value bags with nylon upholstery thread and heavy gauge needle. Unfortunately I got a hidden thread jam on the shuttle that I can't figure out how to clear, or the plastic gears stripped a tooth and the damned thing is out of time. Meanwhile the shitbox Singer I fixed up still works.

If I were to do it again, I would get something like a new Janome HD 1000BE.

I'll fix bedsheets with my sewing machine. I'll fix the pockets of jeans and coats. Darning holes socks, underwear, and T-shirts aren't worth my time.

Dog harnesses, collars and backpacks with adjustable nylon strap slip length adjusters won't stay put at all. Manually back stitching with with upholstery thread are needed to permanently affix them into position.

Being able to crochet or knit some sort of blanket is sort of tempting way to keep my hands busy while listing to a podcast/audiobook. Might be worth doing at least once.

well... yeah, if you're getting one from the 70's you'd want a 158 series kenmore. anything other than that would for sure have plastic gears from that era. as far as singers the rocketter is the last one you'd want to grab (although there is a couple early touch and sew models that are fine, you're going to have a lot more trouble identifying them.) I had someone give me a touch and sew 700 series for free, and like you said if I had tried to repair it, that would have been the biggest headache. the timing belt between the top and bottom was going. It would have required me to take apart the very complicated top in order to replace the belt and considering it also has plastic gears that are old, the only reason to repair it would be if it was sentimental.

If you aren't into repairing/maintenance side of the machines, just take it to a local service shop and have them do it. although there are service shops that aren't willing to repair them and just want to sell you a new machine.

 

[Saint Smilodon]

Which type of sewing machine is preferable? The type where you insert the bobbin from the top and it lies horizontally? Or the type where you put the bobbin into a little housing and insert the housing vertically?

I was gifted a Singer heavy duty (can't remember the model off the top). It's a mechanical front loader, and it's been so easy to work with as a beginner. I doubt front loaders are hard to figure out though, just a few extra steps.

Does anyone know the best place to source merino wool fabric? I've found https://weare.thefabricstoreonline.com but I have no idea if they're the best for the price (considering cost of shipping)

 

[Otterly]

Which type of sewing machine is preferable? The type where you insert the bobbin from the top and it lies horizontally? Or the type where you put the bobbin into a little housing and insert the housing vertically?

It doesn’t matter, really. If you’re looking for an entry level machine then you get into ng you’ll outpace a cheap one quite quickly. This is a good time of year for sales, so up to you if you want to buy a cheap one then pay again for a decent one. I sewed on a cheap machine for years because I was skint and I managed, and it’s still my backup one now.
My advice would depend on what you want to sew and how much you want to spend. If you can get a second hand older main sewing machine then do, they are far better build quality than modern. Go for good build quality over a billion stitches and fancy stuff. If you drop on a 1980s or before working Bernina or any brand with a metal body, buy it!
Singer pfaff and husqvarna all got bought out by some Chinese company and aren’t great, but tbh as first machines they will be ok. Spend just a little more and you can get a janome or juki and they are really good - personally I like juki machines but I have a Janome too and it’s fab. If you’re getting into sewing clothes you’ll end up wanting a serger/ overlocker and then eventually a cover stitch. They (cover) can be finicky. The juki and the brother machines are great though. Avoid janome cover stitch.
Whatever you buy, try to get someone to show you round it in the shop - if you’re up north, David Drummond in Edinburgh are lovely and will give you a lesson i think (or used to!) when you buy.
I would buy from a shop near you. It may not be the cheapest but you will eventually need to service your machines and if it’s a place you can get to and park at easily then you can do that without getting them wrecked in the post.
@Saint Smilodon where are you located? I can give you tips for Europe and UK.
A place called støfdepotet in Denmark - they sell and ship internationally and I’ve never had an issue with import taxes but it is a possibility so factor that in. Danish site, but put ULD in the search and you’ll find it.
If you can bear Finnish language websites, myllullmyksut.
Uk sites that sell really nice fabric way cheaper than many
Croft mill (very helpful staff)
Fabric godmother - has overstock of some really fancy stuff often the Italian fashion houses
Ditto fabrics

 

[Otis Mallebrok]

It doesn’t matter, really. If you’re looking for an entry level machine then you get into ng you’ll outpace a cheap one quite quickly. This is a good time of year for sales, so up to you if you want to buy a cheap one then pay again for a decent one. I sewed on a cheap machine for years because I was skint and I managed, and it’s still my backup one now.
My advice would depend on what you want to sew and how much you want to spend. If you can get a second hand older main sewing machine then do, they are far better build quality than modern. Go for good build quality over a billion stitches and fancy stuff. If you drop on a 1980s or before working Bernina or any brand with a metal body, buy it!
Singer pfaff and husqvarna all got bought out by some Chinese company and aren’t great, but tbh as first machines they will be ok. Spend just a little more and you can get a janome or juki and they are really good - personally I like juki machines but I have a Janome too and it’s fab. If you’re getting into sewing clothes you’ll end up wanting a serger/ overlocker and then eventually a cover stitch. They (cover) can be finicky. The juki and the brother machines are great though. Avoid janome cover stitch.
Whatever you buy, try to get someone to show you round it in the shop - if you’re up north, David Drummond in Edinburgh are lovely and will give you a lesson i think (or used to!) when you buy.
I would buy from a shop near you. It may not be the cheapest but you will eventually need to service your machines and if it’s a place you can get to and park at easily then you can do that without getting them wrecked in the post.

Thank you for such an exquisite answer. The reason that I asked is that considered buying a sewing machine for my oldest daughter for Christmas. The plastic monstrosity she has looks like it would melt in the sun, and it flexes when you push the overhead arm. I ended up buying something else for her though, so I might still use your excellent info. You are the best, Otterly

 

[Otterly]

Thank you for such an exquisite answer.

You’re welcome!
A word also about harp size - the harp is the bit in the middle to the right of the needle, the gap you’re pushing the fabric through. If you’re sewing anything big, like a jacket or a quilt, harp size becomes an issue. So if your daughter is a quilter, look for one with a larger harp size. needless to say they are more expensive. Whatever you buy her, I’d go to a shop, take a bunch of bits of fabric and try it out before you buy.
For a beginner I’d go for a mechanical machine over a computerised as well.
Oh I forgot as well - Bernina are the rolls Royce of machines and have a price tag to match (I still prefer juki or baby lock, same company) but bernina have an entry level brand called bernette and they’re ok too.

 

[ChefBourgeoisie]

I just completed a quick survey of (commercial) sewing patterns. You guys might remember these if mom dragged you along to Joann's when you were a kid, came in the 6"x10" envelopes, were in the filing cabinets and so forth. While there were half a dozen companies that sold these, they've all been consolidated under one (yay, monopolies!). Some large number of them are available for purchase digitally (supposedly as pdf files). Unable to find them via torrents of file-sharing though.

Of the commercial patterns I can find, not all catalog numbers seem available in the number range that appears on line, I assume these are older "out of print" patterns. Furthermore, they're all scattershot with men's clothing and women's clothing, and even children's, toys/dolls/stuffed animals, and tents just appearing randomly.

• Simplicity: S1020 - S9977 (with the oddball C5461 as another catalog number)
• McCall's: M2233 - M8549
• Butterick: B3039 - B7020
• Vogue Patterns: V1032 - V9367
• Know Me: ME2001 - 2106
• New Look: N6005 - N6970
• Burda Style: BUR2459 - BUR9747

What would anyone actually be interested in of any of these? Would you guys want those at all, would you insist on paper patterns? And what's KF's policy on linking to files of questionable license status?

 

[lolnah]

I just completed a quick survey of (commercial) sewing patterns. You guys might remember these if mom dragged you along to Joann's when you were a kid, came in the 6"x10" envelopes, were in the filing cabinets and so forth. While there were half a dozen companies that sold these, they've all been consolidated under one (yay, monopolies!). Some large number of them are available for purchase digitally (supposedly as pdf files). Unable to find them via torrents of file-sharing though.

Of the commercial patterns I can find, not all catalog numbers seem available in the number range that appears on line, I assume these are older "out of print" patterns. Furthermore, they're all scattershot with men's clothing and women's clothing, and even children's, toys/dolls/stuffed animals, and tents just appearing randomly.

• Simplicity: S1020 - S9977 (with the oddball C5461 as another catalog number)
• McCall's: M2233 - M8549
• Butterick: B3039 - B7020
• Vogue Patterns: V1032 - V9367
• Know Me: ME2001 - 2106
• New Look: N6005 - N6970
• Burda Style: BUR2459 - BUR9747

What would anyone actually be interested in of any of these? Would you guys want those at all, would you insist on paper patterns? And what's KF's policy on linking to files of questionable license status?

If it's something that the KF will get a DMCA over I'm not sure it's a good idea but also I personally would love any pattern I can get my hands on

 

[Saint Smilodon]

@Otterly I'm in burgerland. I live near a big city though so I'm trying to see if there's a good fabric store around. I'll check out some of those sites though if they ship to the US.
I did end up buying the wool from the Fabric Store. I got a merino/nylon jersey knit and OH MY GOD did I get an experience on how tricky it can be to sew stretchy fabrics. My first project with it turned out pretty good though, despite my inadequacy.

 

[HahaYes]

I got a merino/nylon jersey knit and OH MY GOD did I get an experience on how tricky it can be to sew stretchy fabrics.

Wait until you decide it's a good idea to use velvet in a project. Oh good lord do I still have some regrets about my one (however it was worth the suffering because it's a gorgeous fabric)

 

[ChefBourgeoisie]

For shits and giggles, bought a pattern for men's blue jeans size 26-50 (seems practical). Downloaded the zip file, seems professionally put together, maybe a dozen pdf files. Some meant to be printed on a commercial printer, others on regular paper and scotch-taped together. Has detailed instructions. I will probably create the svg files myself for a laser cutter, but also possibly I will break this out into individual files for each size (they're overlapping in the pdfs). Considering offering it to people here, but maybe the price of admission is each of us purchasing a pattern and you'd all get access to the rest? Wouldn't matter what it was, but if interested dm me before purchase to make sure it's not one we already have. If this violates rules or even is just too sketchy for the admins, will gladly desist. Just please give a headsup before you ban me like some faggoty reddit moderator.

https://threadtheory.ca/collections/sewing-patterns/products/fulford-jeans-pdf