Sewing, Mending, and Tailoring Thread - Necessary skills for putting your anime girl patches on your mallninja gear.

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I just completed a quick survey of (commercial) sewing patterns. You guys might remember these if mom dragged you along to Joann's when you were a kid, came in the 6"x10" envelopes, were in the filing cabinets and so forth. While there were half a dozen companies that sold these, they've all been consolidated under one (yay, monopolies!). Some large number of them are available for purchase digitally (supposedly as pdf files). Unable to find them via torrents of file-sharing though.

Of the commercial patterns I can find, not all catalog numbers seem available in the number range that appears on line, I assume these are older "out of print" patterns. Furthermore, they're all scattershot with men's clothing and women's clothing, and even children's, toys/dolls/stuffed animals, and tents just appearing randomly.
  • Simplicity: S1020 - S9977 (with the oddball C5461 as another catalog number)
  • McCall's: M2233 - M8549
  • Butterick: B3039 - B7020
  • Vogue Patterns: V1032 - V9367
  • Know Me: ME2001 - 2106
  • New Look: N6005 - N6970
  • Burda Style: BUR2459 - BUR9747
What would anyone actually be interested in of any of these? Would you guys want those at all, would you insist on paper patterns? And what's KF's policy on linking to files of questionable license status?
I don't know bc I don't sew*, but mentioning patterns took me back to hundreds of hours of my childhood spent with my mom (who is a sewer, designer, quilter (and I mean hand-quilting - beautiful things) - her sewing room is wall to wall gorgeous fabrics) in shops looking at pattern books, waiting impatiently for my favorite ones to be free, pulling out the patterns from the drawers for my mom. Got a scent memory, too - thanks!

* I have a basic Bernina I've scarcely touched. Any recommendations for learning resources for people with retard-level skills but a desire to acquire minimal-competence-level fairly quickly?

I'm usually a quick learner for most things, at least to decent competence/skill, but I flopped as a child in this area - sewing, embroidery, needlepoint, crosstitch, crochet, knitting - none of it bloomed, as both my patience and my diligence were low. But I have an interest in upping both my creative outlets and basic skills this year**. For sewing, I'd literally be excited to be able to make a pillowcase with button closures and straight enough lines that my mother would approve would look nice and I would enjoy. Maybe it would stick creatively, or maybe I'd just stop setting clothes that need basic mending basically permanently aside.

**I have some creative goals this year, in addition to an interest in basic life skills. One is a creative project each month - could be new, could be some thing I already do, but with sometangible output. Aside from machine sewing, I think I'll do some combo practical/ decorative hand-sewing or embroidery, and then I've been researching some things like felting. I'd love to knit, but I was so discouraged by my efforts when I was 10 years old (lol, but it's true) that I've ever tried again. Maybe now's good.
 
I can't reply @Friend of Dorothy Parker but if you're anything like me and you like to just jump into a thing trying to skip to the good part, you think you'll be extremely bored by patterns marked as "easy" but I promise you won't be. Try picking up a pattern for like a bag of some kind (Burda has a collection of free patterns here), go buy some fabric remnants that are non-stretch and not weird special material or some cheap canvas (warning, very cheap canvas/duck cloth frays a lot) and make yourself some bags to learn fiddly things like adding zippers or lining, it will increase your skills a lot when making garments.

Personally, I was my own worst enemy when starting out sewing because if I see a thing marked "easy," my brain definitely thinks we're too smart to follow instructions and I would just try to put the thing together myself even though I had no idea what the fuck I was doing. Forcing myself to stop, and read the fucking instructions, and then follow them was honestly what helped me improve, because now I know off the top of my head the order in which to do things when I'm not following a pattern. You literally have to learn the rules in order to break them.
 
Any recommendations for learning resources for people with retard-level skills but a desire to acquire minimal-competence-level fairly quickly?
The best way to learn is by doing. Id have a two stage approach.
1. Learn the basics and how to use the machine
2. Pick easy patterns that help you develop specific skills and have good online tutorials.
Cover the basics first. Good hems, ironing, cutting etc. after that you can branch out into the more complex stuff that will make things actually fit your body (bust adjustments, tweaking shoulders etc.)
So to start: Buy some cheap cotton fabric (check the offcuts bin at the store. Buy a good book that covers the basics. The readers digest complete guide to sewing is good, as is the DK one by Alison smith. So get a book, and start by just sewing lines on the fabric to see how the stitch length and width affects things. Look up some basic, non-clothing things. Tea towels out of some nice linen (but use the cheap cotton to practice.) pretty much everything has a YouTube tutorial these days. Once you can use the machine, you can start a simple bag or clothing pattern. Access to cheap fabric allows you to make a practice version.
I’d start with tea towels. Simple reusable shopping bag, a cushion cover will teach you how to put a zip in. Google free zippered pouch sewing tutorial - now you have a load of handy bags! Try a simple pot holder to learn how to quilt and bind.
My point being don’t start with clothes, because clothes from non stretch materials are hard. Once you can put a zip in, and make decent seams and get how patterns work, you can start with clothes. A simple skirt will probably be easiest. If you’re sewing anything with stretch, you’ll want a serger/overlocker before long. Ironically once you have a serger you’ll probably use it as much as the machine.
 
Encyclopedia of Needlework by Theresa De Dillmont Internet Archive Copy
Very 1700-1800s Eurocentric so you're not going to find much of Asian, American, or modern techniques and fabrics like satin embroidery. It covers everything from basic sewing, mending, embroidery, applique, tapestry, knitting, crochet, tatting, macrame, netting, lace making, washing, starching, all with images and patterns for learning.

I have been using this book for decades. Literally the bible of sewing and everybody needs it.
 
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sewing is for FAGS

how bout you homnos learn 2 do some mewing instead :smug:
Those of us born with good bone structure and muscle tone have no need for such things.

But I think your onion would look better with a sky background.:tomgirl:

The best way to learn is by doing. Id have a two stage approach.
1. Learn the basics and how to use the machine
Yes!
2. Pick easy patterns
:O I guess patterns are necessary, huh? :lit: That part of sewing always seemed so tedious...but with age comes patience, so I'm down.

that help you develop specific skills and have good online tutorials.
Cover the basics first. Good hems, ironing, cutting etc. after that you can branch out into the more complex stuff that will make things actually fit your body (bust adjustments, tweaking shoulders etc.)
So to start: Buy some cheap cotton fabric (check the offcuts bin at the store. Buy a good book that covers the basics. The readers digest complete guide to sewing is good, as is the DK one by Alison smith.
Thanks for the recs!
So get a book, and start by just sewing lines on the fabric to see how the stitch length and width affects things. Look up some basic, non-clothing things. Tea towels out of some nice linen (but use the cheap cotton to practice.) pretty much everything has a YouTube tutorial these days. Once you can use the machine, you can start a simple bag or clothing pattern. Access to cheap fabric allows you to make a practice version.
I’d start with tea towels. Simple reusable shopping bag, a cushion cover will teach you how to put a zip in. Google free zippered pouch sewing tutorial - now you have a load of handy bags! Try a simple pot holder to learn how to quilt and bind.
My point being don’t start with clothes, because clothes from non stretch materials are hard. Once you can put a zip in, and make decent seams and get how patterns work, you can start with clothes. A simple skirt will probably be easiest. If you’re sewing anything with stretch, you’ll want a serger/overlocker before long. Ironically once you have a serger you’ll probably use it as much as the machine.
Thank you! And I have 0 aspirations to make clothes atp. Like I said, a well-done pillowcase (or placemats, or other incredibly basic things) would be enough. I really hate being fully incompetent at anything, but I rate my sewing there. :biggrin:

So thank you. And this convo reminded me that - DUH- I have an artisan (my mom) right nearby. I think I'm actually past my pride/ intimidation/ sense of failure by her standards and could ask her help/tutelage. The only trouble with that is that she is even more of a perfectionist than I am, particularly in this universe, but I actually think it will be fun if she's willing. 100% her first comment will be to chide me for not having used the machine :\ , which my parents gave me, but I think I'm overthinking, so I'm just going to ask.

Try a simple pot holder to learn how to quilt and bind.
Yes! I was thinking quilted placemats, which I love when they're a nice tight quilt (not loose/ puffy).

Thanks again for some orientation and resources.
 
Not if it’s non clothing, just measure and go. Quilting is a great way to learn, definitely go talk to your mum, I bet she’d be very happy to sew with you.
Thanks! I called and she's thrilled to help me. :biggrin: Going to head out next weekend 💃
 
Wait until you decide it's a good idea to use velvet in a project. Oh good lord do I still have some regrets about my one (however it was worth the suffering because it's a gorgeous fabric)
Any words of warning? I have some I want to use for lining a helmet bag I'm making.
 
Any words of warning? I have some I want to use for lining a helmet bag I'm making.
It's a very, very fussy fabric. Rayon velvet (which is the most common) shifts when you're trying to cut or stitch it. Cotton velvet is easier to handle (somewhat, depends on the depth of the nap), but sheds lint like crazy. What sort of helmet is it, and why would it's carrier need a velvet lining? If you have other options, consider them. When it's in the right item, velvet looks good, feels nice. On anything else it's overkill, and if subject to a lot of wear, will get shoddy quickly. Unless it's strictly necessary, you might want to save yourself the frustration of handling it.
 
Any recommendations for learning resources for people with retard-level skills but a desire to acquire minimal-competence-level fairly quickly?

Do adderall I'm not even joking. You will suddenly enjoy doing tedious and intricate needlework :tomgirl:

For shits and giggles, bought a pattern for men's blue jeans size 26-50 (seems practical). Downloaded the zip file, seems professionally put together, maybe a dozen pdf files. Some meant to be printed on a commercial printer, others on regular paper and scotch-taped together. Has detailed instructions. I will probably create the svg files myself for a laser cutter, but also possibly I will break this out into individual files for each size (they're overlapping in the pdfs). Considering offering it to people here, but maybe the price of admission is each of us purchasing a pattern and you'd all get access to the rest? Wouldn't matter what it was, but if interested dm me before purchase to make sure it's not one we already have. If this violates rules or even is just too sketchy for the admins, will gladly desist. Just please give a headsup before you ban me like some faggoty reddit moderator.


Just as a heads up once you have a workhorse pattern that works great for you like perfect jeans you should trace the pieces onto oaktag since it holds up better than the shitty tissue paper most commercial patterns use or those godawful printout patterns meant to be taped together. You can use a sturdy oaktag pattern over and over.

Any words of warning? I have some I want to use for lining a helmet bag I'm making.

Try using a washable Elmer's glue stick (the kind meant for literal children) along the seam allowance to hold the pieces together rather than pinning. The pile will shift your pieces even with pins and make you lose your shit, but glue holds it together with zero shifting and you'll be able to sew much more easily and precisely. Wash the glue out afterwards and you're good to go
 
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Would anyone be able to tell me how much is a reasonable price for a sewing pattern? I've always projects without the use of any patterns because up until now I've only done 1/6 scale doll sized things. Now I'd like to make a people sized thing (a cassock) and the prices for patterns are $30-$50!? At this point I'm considering just winging it since I prefer the boxy versions to the fitted look anyway, like I can fuck up a rectangle right? Or is $30 fair?
 
You’re welcome!
A word also about harp size - the harp is the bit in the middle to the right of the needle, the gap you’re pushing the fabric through. If you’re sewing anything big, like a jacket or a quilt, harp size becomes an issue. So if your daughter is a quilter, look for one with a larger harp size. needless to say they are more expensive. Whatever you buy her, I’d go to a shop, take a bunch of bits of fabric and try it out before you buy.
For a beginner I’d go for a mechanical machine over a computerised as well.
Oh I forgot as well - Bernina are the rolls Royce of machines and have a price tag to match (I still prefer juki or baby lock, same company) but bernina have an entry level brand called bernette and they’re ok too.
I learned this the hard way when Ms. Confederate Woman and I started quilting. My machine is an old Brother that was given to me some time ago. Done a couple with it, but I have to roll them up when they start getting big in order to feed them.


Just as a heads up once you have a workhorse pattern that works great for you like perfect jeans you should trace the pieces onto oaktag since it holds up better than the shitty tissue paper most commercial patterns use or those godawful printout patterns meant to be taped together. You can use a sturdy oaktag pattern over and over

I’ve always traced the pattern onto wax paper so that the pattern I bought is the master and doesn’t get destroyed.
 
I’ve always traced the pattern onto wax paper so that the pattern I bought is the master and doesn’t get destroyed.
Is pattern tracing paper not a thing there? We call it Swedish pattern paper. You trace the pattern onto it so you dont have to scut into the actual sheet
 
Is pattern tracing paper not a thing there? We call it Swedish pattern paper. You trace the pattern onto it so you dont have to scut into the actual sheet
Haven’t heard of it until now and my girlfriend and her grandmother seem to have always cut straight from the pattern. I went waxpaper when I started learning because I could get it at the grocery store and didn’t want to cut up the nice pattern I bought from Timeless Stitches, whom I recommend for historical stuff.
 
Do any of you actually know any tricks to figuring out thread tension on a machine? like is there any good guides out there to eyeball or figure out tension without having every piece of fabric instantly birdnesting?
 
Do any of you actually know any tricks to figuring out thread tension on a machine? like is there any good guides out there to eyeball or figure out tension without having every piece of fabric instantly birdnesting?
I don’t know about the tension part, but I can tell you to check your shuttle assembly. On my machine, if it’s not put together correctly, it’ll birdnest in a heartbeat
 
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I don’t know about the tension part, but I can tell you to check your shuttle assembly. On my machine, if it’s not put together correctly, it’ll birdnest in a heartbeat
it mostly fucks up with Nylon threading, I've been using one of those singer heavy duties off amazon, did I make a shitty mistake with what machine I bought?
 
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