- Joined
- Mar 27, 2025
I just realized nobody pointed out the funniest part of the video
He thinks they're going to start killing Democrats.
He thinks they're going to start killing Democrats.
Technology Connections - Come watch a autistic man sperg over a fridge for 1 hour straight
- Thread starter SandyCat
- Start date
-
Want to keep track of this thread?
Accounts can bookmark posts, watch threads for updates, and jump back to where you stopped reading.
Create account
Bonesjones
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2021
While the electricity was nice, the biggest boom was flood control that meant that half the southeast didn’t get wiped out every 30 years during torrential downpours.
They used ring circuits because they were poor and lacked resources and money. So they used the cheapest available solutions no matter how nonsensical. So you've got outlets that can run a welder used to run a transformer so they can charge their phone and be dipshits on the internet. Good job you can heat up your water 20 seconds faster, no one cares. The only good thing they have is the switch on the outlet, since you can stop modern switch mode power supplies from eating up electricity when not in use.
I was changing some stuff in my very old house and the wire work hardened and broke, thus made the wires too short after I did everything as good as possible. Annoying.
I know Euro and Canada cucks aren't allowed to do more than plug in a cord without a license, but changing outlets is less than a few dollars and a couple minutes of your time.
Sir, this is a thread about an appliance autist offending his audience. Electrical plugs are on the table for sperging.
240 volt runs would be nice, even switch mode power supplies run more efficiently on 240. I think it's worth saying that in some countries, like Ireland, worksites use a step down transformer to 110 to make it safer. Also, having been electrocuted at a bunch of different voltages, 240 fucking hurts compared to 120.
For the three phase plug it's a crap shoot because it's only used in the industrial environment so you have three phase 200 and 400 volt ranges to work with. Then you look at whether you have a ground or neutral. So you have plugs with three, four, and five spades that are twist lock or not. Then you have different ones for different amperage as well.
The upside of all this is the morons on other shift won't be able to plug in the 230 volt saw into a 480 volt outlet and the fuck off massive 90 amp machine won't plug into a 30 amp outlet. Residential three phase does exist, but it is more of a farm thing to see. It's a high leg delta situation. There are three transformers with one of them being a larger split phase one with a center tap. This gives you your 120 single phase and 240 single/three phase. It also has 208 volts from center tap to the other transformers. This is why you might see 208 on some American single phase equipment. This allows single phase 200v equipment to be spread across the phases.
It just sits in the load center. If you have the space just buy one and plug it in yourself. They are generally under a hundred bucks. Buy an insulated screw driver and pliers to install the neutral wire. Unless you're feeling spicy.
But how would he posture and condescend when discussing simple, practical electronics?
It would be a good subject since most people probably don't know what the joule rating really means or the theory of operation. He could extend the series with UPSs since those are great.
They are about the size of a NEMA fifty amp plug and are specifically formulated with Albion malice to always stick the prongs up to inflict maximum injury when stepping on them.
IT'S FAT! IT HAS DUBIOUS UTILITY! IT WAS MADE BY THE ENGLISH!
It is funny that they have a giant plug just so they have have a tiny wire.
It would be live, neutral, and ground/earth.
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2023
If we're on the topic of electrical safety in homes. I already talked about why a fuse in the plug is a good idea. I also want to talk about RCDs/GFCIs.
A fuse or breaker only protects against circuit overloads. It doesn't protect against current "leakage", which is when electricity goes a different path than where it's supposed to (from the live/L to the neutral/N conductor).
Say there's stuff connected between the live and ground/earth that flows a bit of current to earth. This is normally not a problem and without a RCD/GFCI is totally undetectable, as the earth is usually (but not always) tied to the neutral some point, usually at the point where the main service feed comes into the building and where the power meter is.
Now say there is a fault scenario in which that earth wire goes high resistance or open circuit. The thing that's flowing current from L to E is still there, so the appliance E(arth) will float up to full mains voltage. All exposed conductive parts of the appliance will become live and a shock and electrocution hazard.
This is also why "nulling" or the practice of only using two wires to feed an appliance that isn't double insulated is very bad and illegal, because in case the combined N/E conductor goes open, the E will go up to L potential.
Only double insulated appliances can omit the earth, as they need to be designed such that a human can never come in contact with a conductive part connected to the mains.
How do RCDs/GFCIs help? They serve a completely different function than fuses or breakers. They measure the difference between the current that's flowing out in the L and back on the N conductors, this difference must always be 0. If it's not, that means that current is "leaking" out from the circuit somewhere and not coming back on the N. Since this is only measuring the leakage current, not the main load current (which cancels out) it can be set at a much lower threshold, typically under 0.1A (10-30mA is common). That means that faults that would have otherwise remained undetected will now trigger a disconnection, like say water or humidity causing conduction, the beginnings of fires (when a carbon track forms to earth), miswired appliances (that bridge the N and E and are thus unsafe) etc.
The problem that used to be a big nuisance is that because of their cost and size, RCD/GFCIs used to be only installed either at the end of the line, in the socket (e.g. in the USA) or in the distribution board, protecting all circuits together (in Europe). So either they didn't offer enough protection (only protected the appliance, not the cable going from the board to the outlet) or too much (a leakage fault in one circuit would turn off power to ALL circuits).
This has been solved by the creation of so-called RCBOs, which are a RCD/GFCI and a circuit breaker combined into one package, that fits into the same space that used to be taken up by just a circuit breaker. This allows the distribution board to now have RCDs for every circuit separately, solving the problem of nuisance tripping, and also providing better protection than a RCD just in the outlet.
Regulations were also changed to require RCDs for all circuits, they used to only require them for bathrooms and wet rooms.
So if you're upgrading your electrical panels, consider using RCBOs for all circuits. If out of budget, consider using two RCDs and split the circuits between them, so that a RCD trip will only kill half the circuits. And personally I'd never install circuits without a RCD, except for exceptions like a fixed high-power piece of equipment whose operation is critical, like a CNC milling machine for example.
A fuse or breaker only protects against circuit overloads. It doesn't protect against current "leakage", which is when electricity goes a different path than where it's supposed to (from the live/L to the neutral/N conductor).
Say there's stuff connected between the live and ground/earth that flows a bit of current to earth. This is normally not a problem and without a RCD/GFCI is totally undetectable, as the earth is usually (but not always) tied to the neutral some point, usually at the point where the main service feed comes into the building and where the power meter is.
Now say there is a fault scenario in which that earth wire goes high resistance or open circuit. The thing that's flowing current from L to E is still there, so the appliance E(arth) will float up to full mains voltage. All exposed conductive parts of the appliance will become live and a shock and electrocution hazard.
This is also why "nulling" or the practice of only using two wires to feed an appliance that isn't double insulated is very bad and illegal, because in case the combined N/E conductor goes open, the E will go up to L potential.
Only double insulated appliances can omit the earth, as they need to be designed such that a human can never come in contact with a conductive part connected to the mains.
How do RCDs/GFCIs help? They serve a completely different function than fuses or breakers. They measure the difference between the current that's flowing out in the L and back on the N conductors, this difference must always be 0. If it's not, that means that current is "leaking" out from the circuit somewhere and not coming back on the N. Since this is only measuring the leakage current, not the main load current (which cancels out) it can be set at a much lower threshold, typically under 0.1A (10-30mA is common). That means that faults that would have otherwise remained undetected will now trigger a disconnection, like say water or humidity causing conduction, the beginnings of fires (when a carbon track forms to earth), miswired appliances (that bridge the N and E and are thus unsafe) etc.
The problem that used to be a big nuisance is that because of their cost and size, RCD/GFCIs used to be only installed either at the end of the line, in the socket (e.g. in the USA) or in the distribution board, protecting all circuits together (in Europe). So either they didn't offer enough protection (only protected the appliance, not the cable going from the board to the outlet) or too much (a leakage fault in one circuit would turn off power to ALL circuits).
This has been solved by the creation of so-called RCBOs, which are a RCD/GFCI and a circuit breaker combined into one package, that fits into the same space that used to be taken up by just a circuit breaker. This allows the distribution board to now have RCDs for every circuit separately, solving the problem of nuisance tripping, and also providing better protection than a RCD just in the outlet.
Regulations were also changed to require RCDs for all circuits, they used to only require them for bathrooms and wet rooms.
So if you're upgrading your electrical panels, consider using RCBOs for all circuits. If out of budget, consider using two RCDs and split the circuits between them, so that a RCD trip will only kill half the circuits. And personally I'd never install circuits without a RCD, except for exceptions like a fixed high-power piece of equipment whose operation is critical, like a CNC milling machine for example.
The Fatriarchy
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2018
To be fair, around 40 years ago the concept of ground source heat pumps were fantastic. Had a place out in the middle of nowhere that I outfitted with one and I'd almost paid off the difference before deciding the middle of nowhere sucks and the city is where it's at.
You're a huge retarded nigger if you think they only last 5 years, especially the good ones. I haven't seen that even with heavy use. Never ever seen a plug all out, and always had to use a decent amount of force to remove them. Stop using plugs made by sweatshop chinks.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2012
JUST BUY THE REALLY GOOD ONES BRO PLEASE IT'S AMERICAN EXCEPTIONALISM TO NEVER FIX ANYTHING EVER PLEASE BRO COME ON
It doesn't MATTER how PINCHY IT IS because a child can always manually half-pull the plug EVEN IF IT'S REALLY PINCHY and expose the hot wire!!!! A child cannot expose the hot wires of almost any other standard!!!! It is OBJECTIVELY INFERIOR. It is possible for a child using a regular household object to complete the circuit with their body. In Europe the fucking things have SHUTTERS that prevent this.
THAT'S JUST DARWINISM BRO IF CHILDREN PLAY WITH THINGS AT CHILD-HEIGHT OR IF YOU DON'T PLUG YOUR ENTIRE HOUSE UP THAT'S JUST A DESERVED CHILD DEATH BRO
USA!! USA!! 7 CHILD INJURIES A DAY!! USA!! USA!!
The Fatriarchy
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2018
Don't look now but I think that's Trump over there, and he wants to take your website.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2012
beaten like a fucking dog
The Fatriarchy
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2018
Yeah, you are. Now quit acting like a leftard. It's unbecoming.
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2024
To be honest, a retarded enough child will always find a way. We have European sockets, but that didn't stop ~8 year old me from inserting a wire in there, it made a cool-looking lightning for a moment. Thankfully, I didn't get shocked.
We have moved from exposed conductors to sticking shit into the socket.
As it turns out the National Electrical Code requires Tamper Resistant sockets to be used on in most places. The policy has been around for ~two decades.
So the issue has been addressed and the best way to prevent it is replace the socket with a tamper resistant one. Cheaper would be a big pack of those outlet covers but at some point a toddler will be strong and curious enough to get around that, so get the proper socket. The Home Despot has them for ~$23 a ten pack. Pick up some Klein Tools American made electrically insulated hand tools while you are at it.
Attachments
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2019
Good points boss. I have always agreed, the US design is (one of) the worst. The reason being, it was one of the first.
TL;DR
1) There are electrical problems in the US that are far more pressing
2) The cost would be in the hundreds of trillions, worldwide
3) Safety Culture is a faggot sport. Work in a factory and enjoy getting your hand slapped a few times for not wearing your glasses for a second.
My hatred for Safety Culture has no bounds. HMU sometime for stories. BTW- I'm OSHA-30 certified.
Let's look at the costs of change. This isn't software. You can't just push an update to the cloud and (cross fingers) make it work.
Everything from NEC, IEEE, OSHA and dozens of other standards would require radical review, and rewrite.
All engineering standards and prints for every consumer electronic device - made worldwide - would require redesign.
Tooling, manufacturing datasets, stock and inventory, the list goes on.
There would be a transition period requiring adapters, which would be discarded afterwards. Resulting in non-value added Ewaste.
Deaths would spike, due to homeowners trying to either DUI the changes, or retrofit equipment with the old plugs into a new outlet.
The cost would be in the hundreds of trillions.
Meanwhile, we have MANY older homes that still don't have grounding outlets, GFCI, conduit, Aluminum wire (which is allowed) etc.
How many homes burn down because of Knob-and-Tube wiring?
I lived in a unit that was WIRED BACKWARDS (before I corrected it). Yes- Hot was neutral, and neutral was hot.
Everything from NEC, IEEE, OSHA and dozens of other standards would require radical review, and rewrite.
All engineering standards and prints for every consumer electronic device - made worldwide - would require redesign.
Tooling, manufacturing datasets, stock and inventory, the list goes on.
There would be a transition period requiring adapters, which would be discarded afterwards. Resulting in non-value added Ewaste.
Deaths would spike, due to homeowners trying to either DUI the changes, or retrofit equipment with the old plugs into a new outlet.
The cost would be in the hundreds of trillions.
Meanwhile, we have MANY older homes that still don't have grounding outlets, GFCI, conduit, Aluminum wire (which is allowed) etc.
How many homes burn down because of Knob-and-Tube wiring?
I lived in a unit that was WIRED BACKWARDS (before I corrected it). Yes- Hot was neutral, and neutral was hot.
No Face
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- May 23, 2017
Jarvis, pull up the stats on child electrical outlet injuries.... categorized by household racial identification.
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2020
You're gonna have to back that up with a source since I live in Europe for 40 years and never saw bent schuko pins
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2023
I said the Euro plug https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Europlug
it has thinner pins than Schuko, so they're supposed to be bent towards each other slightly so that they fit tighter in a Schuko socket
To quote wikipedia:
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2020
Please accept my humble apology, I misunderstood. Yeah, that's pretty much correct, although I have an apple brick I front of me right now and it's prongs are straight.
Edit: here's a quick comparison. The apple one is just a smidgeon crooked, but a bargain bin cable is clearly bent inwards. The prongs are thinner than a Schuko plug. I never noticed that until now
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2024
I am not an electrical engineer, but I wonder how complicated is to implement the circuit that detects the polarity of the power source?
Checking that plug museum site, it is pretty insteresting how the early designs were pretty safe to my surprise:
@Agamemnon Busmalis
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2020
I'm not one either, bit there's no polarity in AC, you just use a bridge rectifier. Pretty easy.
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2020
