Warhammer 40k

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Weather finally isn’t arctic fucking deathcold
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Time to prime the Eternal.

HH models (breaking barn overseer has my eye) are gonna go up today btw
 
Space marine 2 has an event where you can get the mark 8 helmet for free, so you look less like ass primaris.
These fucking devs are beyond retarded, and I'm convinced they had no clue what the fuck they were doin with this game beyond the campaign. Wow yet another 3rd party thing you have to do to get an in game item that should have been in from the start considering its already in the game? Or they could have at least not put the ravenwing icon on the mrk 8 they included with the Angels pack.
Oh and if you miss out youre just shit out of luck forever like the twitch drops. Shits fucking dumb.

At this point these clowns are literally just playing catch-up with the Astartes Overhaul mod. A mod that came out surprisingly soon after the game dropped.

Edit: from what I've been seeing, the event for the mrk 8 is bugged and not even tracking your progress lmao
 
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These fucking devs are beyond retarded, and I'm convinced they had no clue what the fuck they were doin with this game beyond the campaign. Wow yet another 3rd party thing you have to do to get an in game item that should have been in from the start considering its already in the game? Or they could have at least not put the ravenwing icon on the mrk 8 they included with the Angels pack.
Oh and if you miss out youre just shit out of luck forever like the twitch drops. Shits fucking dumb.

At this point these clowns are literally just playing catch-up with the Astartes Overhaul mod. A mod that came out surprisingly soon after the game dropped.
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Gradually I began to hate them

They have the hooded artwork behind it, WHY NOT BOTH SABRE?! YOU HAVE THE MODELS, WE KNOW GW ISN’T BEHIND THIS ONE.
 
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Buddy of mine I play warhammer with sent me this. I play Salamanders he plays Death Guard.
Kek, I sent that to my Salamander friend.

We joke about him playing the blackest guys in the galaxy and my legion being the whitest guys in the galaxy, which is one of the reasons I’m debating getting the new Overseer.
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When my friend said “Fulgrim reads like he sounds like Calvin Candie” it made the EC even funnier.
 
I need a paint recommendation. While I'm personally happy when I'm painting a model, when I put it on the table next to someone else's army it's embarrassing how plastic and flat my models look. Admittedly I just use base paints and metallics but I'm learning. I want to retain the very clean and vibrant look of T'au. I bought Nuln Oil as I was told it's basically liquid skill in a bottle. I tried it when I first started out and hated how it stained the whole model. I have since learned the esoteric knowledge of thinning your wash so that it doesn't do that. I tested on some fire warriors. I soaked the whole thing in 1:1 thinned oil and kept brushing to try and prevent pooling. Even though the difference is subtle I feel this step alone has made a difference. However, it's still staining the models in places despite my best efforts. Even though drowning my model in a thin wash isn't that complicated it does add yet another step to the process and I already hate painting.

Contrast/speed paints are selling what I want. One coat of paint and call it done. I like how the contrast came out on my Kroot so I know it works really well for skin. I've seen it used on Space Marines so I know it can work on flat armor panels. My only gripe is now finding the right colors to match as close as possible. The rest of my army right now is painted in Pro Acryl Sky Blue. It's a beautiful vibrant blue. I've been watching youtube videos demoing entire paint ranges, I've looked at color charts showing the final look on bases and tiles. But so far, in my experience, everything is way too dark. I don't seem to be getting anywhere near the same results as other painters. I understand that cameras do weird things to colors, but usually they make colors look darker, not brighter than they should be.

This is the color I'm trying to match. Anyone have any suggestions? Is it a skill issue, or do I need to keep buying paint until I find the right one?

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Anyone have any suggestions?
One of the worst things newer painters do to themselves, that I very seldom see anyone and especially YouTubers talk about, is getting hung up on trying to find the "right color".
The obvious excuse is that you want your whole army to match. But that isn't how that works in real life, is it? Military shit gets sun damage over time, it gets repainted in new paints made by the lowest bidder, it gets scratched and damaged and chipped and worn and by the end of it none of it looks the same unless its all brand new anyways. The point is just find something close and roll with it, nobody but you are likely to notice anyways.

If you hate painting ask yourself why.
Do you hate painting but just still want nice models? Then honestly just hire a commission painter through a local LGS to do it for you. You will save money on time and equipment.
If you hate painting because you hate YOUR ability to paint where your skill is right now then the correct choice is to improve. Learn about basic volumes and at least learn shades, midtones and highlights and how to place them.
In either case stop buying paints. Your brushes aren't holding you back, nor is a wet/dry palette, nor are your paints. A good painter can make craft paints do amazing things.
If you think spending more money in an already expensive hobby will get you what you want then you're right, it will; by hiring a commission painter.

Finally, the color you're looking for is any cerulean blue, which is the proper artist paint name. A cerulean blue hue (hue in artists paints just means it's not the real pigment for cerulean blue, aka PB35/36. A hue is an approximation of that color made by combining other pigments together. Usually this is a phthalo blue (printer ink blue) and a titanium or zinc white for making a cerulean blue hue. I recommend trying Golden SoFlat or Liquitex heavy body acrylics, though only try heavy body acrylics if you want and know how to use a much thicker paint. If you are US based I like to use dickblick (which is linked) to buy most of my art supplies.

A 59ml jar of SoFlat is $9.30 to be clear. I think citedal paints are like $5 or $6 for 12ml, right? Someone who actually buys citadel can correct me on that.
If you really still want "hobby paints" then just stick with ProAcryl or the new Army Painter Fanatic 3rd wave stuff. Army painter paints are actually decent now btw.
 
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Who says 40k always has to be grimdark? That slow turn after the initial ambush, then the panicked volley fire as it stares them down and charges up the ol' plasma annihilator. Peak comedy.

I thought this was a pretty neat screengrab from that video, too:

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So grim and dark
 
Finally, the color you're looking for is any cerulean blue, which is the proper artist paint name. A cerulean blue hue (hue in artists paints just means it's not the real pigment for cerulean blue, aka PB35/36. A hue is an approximation of that color made by combining other pigments together. Usually this is a phthalo blue (printer ink blue) and a titanium or zinc white for making a cerulean blue hue. I recommend trying Golden SoFlat or Liquitex heavy body acrylics, though only try heavy body acrylics if you want and know how to use a much thicker paint. If you are US based I like to use dickblick (which is linked) to buy most of my art supplies.
Thank you, it's refreshing to see that more people know where else to go for paint. I would make one suggestion though. Heavy body acrylics work well, but honestly I think most of them are too thick too often just leading to spending more time playing with how to thin them(I only keep tubes of heavy body whites and blacks on hand). The liquitex acrylic gouache range is a lot closer to normal hobby paint(around the same price range as the golden soflat but I haven't personally tried that yet). Another advantage with these, is that Golden and Liquitex rate the opacity and their displays have swatches showing coverage over white and black.

A 59ml jar of SoFlat is $9.30 to be clear. I think citedal paints are like $5 or $6 for 12ml, right? Someone who actually buys citadel can correct me on that.
You're spot on with the pricing. Same deal with just getting medium without pigment and just making it the color you want instead of the shitty spoonful of 24ml of stirland mud or whatever that GW charges $8 for.
 
Hobby question on lighting since I'm sick of using a cheap lamp that makes me feel blind. Anyone use one of those arch lights?

Current winner for me is an Aus based company called Archled. Most models ive found are nail salon light (expensive), GSW (expensive and eh quality) or Temu (cheap and nasty. This one seems to hit a sweet spot but arch lights dont have many reviews out there.
 
Hobby question on lighting since I'm sick of using a cheap lamp that makes me feel blind. Anyone use one of those arch lights?

Current winner for me is an Aus based company called Archled. Most models ive found are nail salon light (expensive), GSW (expensive and eh quality) or Temu (cheap and nasty. This one seems to hit a sweet spot but arch lights dont have many reviews out there.
They are overpriced for what they are (a strip of LEDs basically) If you can spare the desk space go for it, but a clamp-on arm LED lamp will do just fine.
 
I would make one suggestion though. Heavy body acrylics work well, but honestly I think most of them are too thick too often just leading to spending more time playing with how to thin them(I only keep tubes of heavy body whites and blacks on hand).
I actually don't think you should be thinning heavy body acrylics. Place a very small "blob" on a surface you want to paint and then spread that blob around until the surface is evenly coated, basically turning each surface into a very small dry pallet. Obsviously you need to work quickly but only insofar as quick enough compared to the blob you put down. When I use them my blobs will be as large as 3mm diameter and as small as 0.5mm. The benefit is that you have a pretty high level of control over techniques like feathering.

I also agree that new painters should probably not use heavy body acrylics unless they are willing to sink the time into the learning curve, and I did say as much in my own post.

Personally, I don't like standard acrylics. As such I basically only use oils and heavy body acrylics anymore, because I prefer their application and feel. I am a slow painter so having my paints dry very quickly is just annoying to work with based on how I paint. I almost gave up painting entirely because I just couldn't make acrylics work when I started. Trying oils honestly saved the hobby for me, but also opened my eyes to how much you actually get ripped off for buying hobby paints when artist acrylics are just as good and for a fraction of the cost. That and having real control of what pigments you are buying is a huge step up. After all, wraithbone isn't a real fucking color.
You're spot on with the pricing. Same deal with just getting medium without pigment and just making it the color you want instead of the shitty spoonful of 24ml of stirland mud or whatever that GW charges $8 for.
Yeah, Mod Podge is your best friend and is EXTREMELY cheap at any arts store like Michael's or Hobby Lobby. I couple recipes I really like to use involve Spackling Paste from a hardware store like Lowe's, Mod Podge and any sterile sand or dirt. You can sterilize a lot of materials by throwing them in your oven at 250-300f for an hour or two, less time depending on how much or little you are doing.
Pine bark chips/nuggets and cork sheet are another set of good options for basing materials.
Styrene sheets can be formed into basically any hard surface object or kitbash.
XPS foam is sold at hardware stores for pretty cheap.
 
I actually don't think you should be thinning heavy body acrylics. Place a very small "blob" on a surface you want to paint and then spread that blob around until the surface is evenly coated, basically turning each surface into a very small dry pallet. Obsviously you need to work quickly but only insofar as quick enough compared to the blob you put down. When I use them my blobs will be as large as 3mm diameter and as small as 0.5mm. The benefit is that you have a pretty high level of control over techniques like feathering.
I thin them because it means basic black and white is incredibly cheap. I get what you're saying with regard to application and blending with oil paints, but in my experience trying to use heavy body acrylics to blend that way just doesn't work as well so I'd rather just use oil paints.
Personally, I don't like standard acrylics. As such I basically only use oils and heavy body acrylics anymore, because I prefer their application and feel. I am a slow painter so having my paints dry very quickly is just annoying to work with based on how I paint. I almost gave up painting entirely because I just couldn't make acrylics work when I started. Trying oils honestly saved the hobby for me, but also opened my eyes to how much you actually get ripped off for buying hobby paints when artist acrylics are just as good and for a fraction of the cost. That and having real control of what pigments you are buying is a huge step up. After all, wraithbone isn't a real fucking color.
Agreed about the oils when its appropriate for the project. A centerpiece you're going to be putting dozens of hours into, sure. 30 models for troops? I'd never have anything done if I tried to paint basic stuff the same way. I think that's probably where a bit of our differences are regarding the use of heavy body acrylics.
Yeah, Mod Podge is your best friend and is EXTREMELY cheap at any arts store like Michael's or Hobby Lobby. I couple recipes I really like to use involve Spackling Paste from a hardware store like Lowe's, Mod Podge and any sterile sand or dirt. You can sterilize a lot of materials by throwing them in your oven at 250-300f for an hour or two, less time depending on how much or little you are doing.
Pine bark chips/nuggets and cork sheet are another set of good options for basing materials.
Styrene sheets can be formed into basically any hard surface object or kitbash.
XPS foam is sold at hardware stores for pretty cheap.
It's honestly kind of sad sometimes how weirdly helpless people can get regarding the basic crafting side of the hobby. Like they've forgotten 2nd grade art projects. Foam board, popsicle sticks, and glue when used well can go a long way. What I find truly funny though is people who insist they need to buy a rubberized magnetic sheet to put in the bottom of a storage box instead of just getting a basic steel piece of roof flashing from a hardware store for $2 or even a basic steel cooking sheet from a discount store. But that's just part of the "miniature hobby tax".

But even if you don't want to mix mod podge and sand, or for some reason can't figure out which spackling paste to buy... you can get a 230ml tub(hell, you can even get the shit by the gallon bucket if you really want) of acrylic pumice medium from golden for not much more than the cost of the spoonful of "technical" paint for basing you get from GW. Just add some brown paint.

But even the heavy body acrylics, golden soflat, oil paints... you can pick that stuff up at a basic craft store like michaels(more common than having a blick local) as well. It's just in a separate section from the shittier "craft paint" but people never look for some reason.
 
The necron redo was controversial. The C'tan pokemon deal was silly, but the added named characters worked out. It was for all its faults better than Votan.
Votann lore doesn't really step on the toes of anything though,(Which I suppose is arguably a problem because they might as well not exist) meanwhile fans of oldcrons had their faction permanently ruined.
 
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