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These fucking devs are beyond retarded, and I'm convinced they had no clue what the fuck they were doin with this game beyond the campaign. Wow yet another 3rd party thing you have to do to get an in game item that should have been in from the start considering its already in the game? Or they could have at least not put the ravenwing icon on the mrk 8 they included with the Angels pack.Space marine 2 has an event where you can get the mark 8 helmet for free, so you look less like ass primaris.
These fucking devs are beyond retarded, and I'm convinced they had no clue what the fuck they were doin with this game beyond the campaign. Wow yet another 3rd party thing you have to do to get an in game item that should have been in from the start considering its already in the game? Or they could have at least not put the ravenwing icon on the mrk 8 they included with the Angels pack.
Oh and if you miss out youre just shit out of luck forever like the twitch drops. Shits fucking dumb.
At this point these clowns are literally just playing catch-up with the Astartes Overhaul mod. A mod that came out surprisingly soon after the game dropped.
I really want the angry helmet but you need to have that gay PROS account linked for it?View attachment 7012701
Gradually I began to hate them
They have the hooded artwork behind it, WHY NOT BOTH SABRE?! YOU HAVE THE MODELS, WE KNOW GW ISN’T BEHIND THIS ONE.
Kek, I sent that to my Salamander friend.View attachment 7013870
Buddy of mine I play warhammer with sent me this. I play Salamanders he plays Death Guard.
One of the worst things newer painters do to themselves, that I very seldom see anyone and especially YouTubers talk about, is getting hung up on trying to find the "right color".Anyone have any suggestions?
Thank you, it's refreshing to see that more people know where else to go for paint. I would make one suggestion though. Heavy body acrylics work well, but honestly I think most of them are too thick too often just leading to spending more time playing with how to thin them(I only keep tubes of heavy body whites and blacks on hand). The liquitex acrylic gouache range is a lot closer to normal hobby paint(around the same price range as the golden soflat but I haven't personally tried that yet). Another advantage with these, is that Golden and Liquitex rate the opacity and their displays have swatches showing coverage over white and black.Finally, the color you're looking for is any cerulean blue, which is the proper artist paint name. A cerulean blue hue (hue in artists paints just means it's not the real pigment for cerulean blue, aka PB35/36. A hue is an approximation of that color made by combining other pigments together. Usually this is a phthalo blue (printer ink blue) and a titanium or zinc white for making a cerulean blue hue. I recommend trying Golden SoFlat or Liquitex heavy body acrylics, though only try heavy body acrylics if you want and know how to use a much thicker paint. If you are US based I like to use dickblick (which is linked) to buy most of my art supplies.
You're spot on with the pricing. Same deal with just getting medium without pigment and just making it the color you want instead of the shitty spoonful of 24ml of stirland mud or whatever that GW charges $8 for.A 59ml jar of SoFlat is $9.30 to be clear. I think citedal paints are like $5 or $6 for 12ml, right? Someone who actually buys citadel can correct me on that.
Ion shields: Rotated
They are overpriced for what they are (a strip of LEDs basically) If you can spare the desk space go for it, but a clamp-on arm LED lamp will do just fine.Hobby question on lighting since I'm sick of using a cheap lamp that makes me feel blind. Anyone use one of those arch lights?
Current winner for me is an Aus based company called Archled. Most models ive found are nail salon light (expensive), GSW (expensive and eh quality) or Temu (cheap and nasty. This one seems to hit a sweet spot but arch lights dont have many reviews out there.
I actually don't think you should be thinning heavy body acrylics. Place a very small "blob" on a surface you want to paint and then spread that blob around until the surface is evenly coated, basically turning each surface into a very small dry pallet. Obsviously you need to work quickly but only insofar as quick enough compared to the blob you put down. When I use them my blobs will be as large as 3mm diameter and as small as 0.5mm. The benefit is that you have a pretty high level of control over techniques like feathering.I would make one suggestion though. Heavy body acrylics work well, but honestly I think most of them are too thick too often just leading to spending more time playing with how to thin them(I only keep tubes of heavy body whites and blacks on hand).
Yeah, Mod Podge is your best friend and is EXTREMELY cheap at any arts store like Michael's or Hobby Lobby. I couple recipes I really like to use involve Spackling Paste from a hardware store like Lowe's, Mod Podge and any sterile sand or dirt. You can sterilize a lot of materials by throwing them in your oven at 250-300f for an hour or two, less time depending on how much or little you are doing.You're spot on with the pricing. Same deal with just getting medium without pigment and just making it the color you want instead of the shitty spoonful of 24ml of stirland mud or whatever that GW charges $8 for.
I thin them because it means basic black and white is incredibly cheap. I get what you're saying with regard to application and blending with oil paints, but in my experience trying to use heavy body acrylics to blend that way just doesn't work as well so I'd rather just use oil paints.I actually don't think you should be thinning heavy body acrylics. Place a very small "blob" on a surface you want to paint and then spread that blob around until the surface is evenly coated, basically turning each surface into a very small dry pallet. Obsviously you need to work quickly but only insofar as quick enough compared to the blob you put down. When I use them my blobs will be as large as 3mm diameter and as small as 0.5mm. The benefit is that you have a pretty high level of control over techniques like feathering.
Agreed about the oils when its appropriate for the project. A centerpiece you're going to be putting dozens of hours into, sure. 30 models for troops? I'd never have anything done if I tried to paint basic stuff the same way. I think that's probably where a bit of our differences are regarding the use of heavy body acrylics.Personally, I don't like standard acrylics. As such I basically only use oils and heavy body acrylics anymore, because I prefer their application and feel. I am a slow painter so having my paints dry very quickly is just annoying to work with based on how I paint. I almost gave up painting entirely because I just couldn't make acrylics work when I started. Trying oils honestly saved the hobby for me, but also opened my eyes to how much you actually get ripped off for buying hobby paints when artist acrylics are just as good and for a fraction of the cost. That and having real control of what pigments you are buying is a huge step up. After all, wraithbone isn't a real fucking color.
It's honestly kind of sad sometimes how weirdly helpless people can get regarding the basic crafting side of the hobby. Like they've forgotten 2nd grade art projects. Foam board, popsicle sticks, and glue when used well can go a long way. What I find truly funny though is people who insist they need to buy a rubberized magnetic sheet to put in the bottom of a storage box instead of just getting a basic steel piece of roof flashing from a hardware store for $2 or even a basic steel cooking sheet from a discount store. But that's just part of the "miniature hobby tax".Yeah, Mod Podge is your best friend and is EXTREMELY cheap at any arts store like Michael's or Hobby Lobby. I couple recipes I really like to use involve Spackling Paste from a hardware store like Lowe's, Mod Podge and any sterile sand or dirt. You can sterilize a lot of materials by throwing them in your oven at 250-300f for an hour or two, less time depending on how much or little you are doing.
Pine bark chips/nuggets and cork sheet are another set of good options for basing materials.
Styrene sheets can be formed into basically any hard surface object or kitbash.
XPS foam is sold at hardware stores for pretty cheap.
Votann lore doesn't really step on the toes of anything though,(Which I suppose is arguably a problem because they might as well not exist) meanwhile fans of oldcrons had their faction permanently ruined.The necron redo was controversial. The C'tan pokemon deal was silly, but the added named characters worked out. It was for all its faults better than Votan.