Warhammer 40k

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I'm most interested in Titanicus out of the specialist games, but I have a bad feeling that it's on the verge of being cancelled, given its lack of announcements and how GW doesn't even stock it in their stores. And they even stock Aeronautica!

I was hoping that there would be a Titanicus announcement alongside the new Horus Heresy 2.0 stuff, given the prominence of Warlord Titans in that cinematic trailer, but that turned out to not be the case.
 
Alter Ego said:
I'm most interested in Titanicus out of the specialist games, but I have a bad feeling that it's on the verge of being cancelled, given its lack of announcements and how GW doesn't even stock it in their stores. And they even stock Aeronautica!

I was hoping that there would be a Titanicus announcement alongside the new Horus Heresy 2.0 stuff, given the prominence of Warlord Titans in that cinematic trailer, but that turned out to not be the case.
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If I'm not mistaken they only announced a new kit for that like... every 6 months after the first year?
I mean it's somewhat intense paying 100 bucks a titan for a hyper niche model.
 
Love_Machine011 said:
Ash wastes gave you some dinky terrain, a couple small vehicles and a gang.

The heresy gives you you a $100 plastic spartan. Literally the entirety of the tactical squads for most heresy armies at like $240. A squad of terminators for like $55 and a $60-70 dollar contemptor for less then $250
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I think you should have another look at the ash wastes box.

BrainProlapse said:
Here's my Tyrannofex. Bit of a rush job, but I like how it turned out. Fitted nano-LEDs in the eye sockets.
View attachment 3257617View attachment 3257619
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Nice, battery hidden in the hollow of the base?
 
Love_Machine011 said:
Ah excuse me, TWO GANGS, a whopping 12vmore models. Doesn't even cover the tactical marines in the heresy box.
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I mean, if you take the end product in weight of plastic alone, you're right.

But designing 40 generic marines and stuffing them in a box vs 2x 12 multipiece gangs with adjustable asthetics and loadouts, x2 unique fast vehicle types and enough terrain to fill a board... not so much.
 
Caddchef said:
I mean, if you take the end product in weight of plastic alone, you're right.

But designing 40 generic marines and stuffing them in a box vs 2x 12 multipiece gangs with adjustable asthetics and loadouts, x2 unique fast vehicle types and enough terrain to fill a board... not so much.
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ah but then we have the terminators, the contemptor, and the spartan. (with customizable loadouts)
 
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Having played a few games now with the Tempest of War cards, they're fantastic - just a great way to mix things up and keep you on your toes as you keep drawing new secondaries. Having to chase new objectives as you score the ones you're holding is just a great mechanic for casual/fun play. The people I play with still talk about some of the nonsense that has come out of having to switch gears each turn.
 
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Alter Ego said:
I'm most interested in Titanicus out of the specialist games, but I have a bad feeling that it's on the verge of being cancelled, given its lack of announcements and how GW doesn't even stock it in their stores. And they even stock Aeronautica!

I was hoping that there would be a Titanicus announcement alongside the new Horus Heresy 2.0 stuff, given the prominence of Warlord Titans in that cinematic trailer, but that turned out to not be the case.
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They did just announce a new Warhound variant that's going up for pre-order soon, but I think the problem with Titanicus is there just aren't that many models and scenarios GW can make for it, so the pipeline for new releases is small compared to the main games or the other specialist games like Aeronautica or Necromunda.
 
CSM Combat Patrol:
Not a bad starter set for a Word Bearer force.
If anyone was curious about other factions involved in the Horus Heresy, there is an article for you:
Speaking of Horus Heresy, Lucius has a model coming:
I suspect an updated (and much needed) 40K version will be on the horizon soon.
Also, cover art for the Rogal Dorn Primarch book was revealed and the title:
Rogal Dorn: The Emperor's Crusader.
It seems they are doing the order of Mortarion, Rogal Dorn, Sanguinius, and Horus Lupercal.
Now we know what to look forward to.
 
Question for painters here: lately, whenever I use either my Nuln Oil or Reikland Fleshade washes, no matter how much I either shake or try to thin them, the model comes away with a slight glossy sheen that I don't care for. I know I'm not using the gloss variants, and I'm at a loss as to what's causing this. Any of you had experience with something like that?
 
Ow The Edge said:
Question for painters here: lately, whenever I use either my Nuln Oil or Reikland Fleshade washes, no matter how much I either shake or try to thin them, the model comes away with a slight glossy sheen that I don't care for. I know I'm not using the gloss variants, and I'm at a loss as to what's causing this. Any of you had experience with something like that?
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Never encountered this, but the issue should be fixed when you varnish it anyway, YOU ARE VARNASHING right?
 
Ow The Edge said:
Question for painters here: lately, whenever I use either my Nuln Oil or Reikland Fleshade washes, no matter how much I either shake or try to thin them, the model comes away with a slight glossy sheen that I don't care for. I know I'm not using the gloss variants, and I'm at a loss as to what's causing this. Any of you had experience with something like that?
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@Love_Machine011 is spot-on. Shoot it with matte varnish after (rattlecan is perfectly fine) and you'll be good to go, but I've been using oil washes a lot more lately - better flow/less pooling and you have a ton of working time.
 
Love_Machine011 said:
Never encountered this, but the issue should be fixed when you varnish it anyway, YOU ARE VARNASHING right?
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I’m a bit conservative with the varnish at the moment due to being a bit indecisive on my color scheme. Incidentally, anyone know a good way to paint a bright red Tyranid carapace?

WhatInTheActualFuck said:
@Love_Machine011 is spot-on. Shoot it with matte varnish after (rattlecan is perfectly fine) and you'll be good to go, but I've been using oil washes a lot more lately - better flow/less pooling and you have a ton of working time.
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Interesting. Any oil washes that you can recommend?
 
Ow The Edge said:
I’m a bit conservative with the varnish at the moment due to being a bit indecisive on my color scheme. Incidentally, anyone know a good way to paint a bright red Tyranid carapace?


Interesting. Any oil washes that you can recommend?
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I just mix them from artist oils and white spirits or mineral spirits. A black wash makes a good substitute for Nuln Oil, and a mix of burnt umber and burnt sienna (in varying quantities) subs in nicely for Agrax Earthshade or Reikland Fleshshade. Just buy the small tubes since you'll be thinning it down a lot - I have some 1 1/4 ounce tubes of Winsor and Newton oils that will probably last me forever.

Also, oils are great for weathering and/or streaking effects since you can get some really subtle tones and transitions super easily. For more info, search "oil wash miniatures" on YouTube or check out some scale modeling channels (particularly for weathering) like Plasmo and Night Shift.
 
Ow The Edge said:
I’m a bit conservative with the varnish at the moment due to being a bit indecisive on my color scheme. Incidentally, anyone know a good way to paint a bright red Tyranid carapace?


Interesting. Any oil washes that you can recommend?
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try vallejo vermillion

Ow The Edge said:
I’m a bit conservative with the varnish at the moment due to being a bit indecisive on my color scheme. Incidentally, anyone know a good way to paint a bright red Tyranid carapace?


Interesting. Any oil washes that you can recommend?
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also it literally doesnt matter with vanrish because you can just revarnish it again if you want a different finish. Not an issue.
 
Love_Machine011 said:
also it literally doesnt matter with vanrish because you can just revarnish it again if you want a different finish. Not an issue.
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Hell yeah. I'll spray a model with gloss before applying an oil wash (to help with capillary action) or applying waterslides (for better adhesion), then shoot it with matte after I'm done.
 
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