Warhammer 40k

[Spilled Spaghett]

Lucky. All the stores around me either never host anything, or are just infested with trannies and neckbeards.

Neckbeards I can at least work with. They get a little passionate about the lore and the rules but trannies are insufferable.

It's just reality that Pokemon and Yu-Gi-Oh are way more profitable than Warhammer will ever be for local stores. If you're a mom and pop just trying to stay open I don't blame them for wanting cheap rent, and hosting TCG events every night. This is why the majority of my tabletop games are on TTS now. It's just easier.

 

[harbringer883]

Neckbeards I can at least work with. They get a little passionate about the lore and the rules but trannies are insufferable.

It's just reality that Pokemon and Yu-Gi-Oh are way more profitable than Warhammer will ever be for local stores. If you're a mom and pop just trying to stay open I don't blame them for wanting cheap rent, and hosting TCG events every night. This is why the majority of my tabletop games are on TTS now. It's just easier.

Yeah, all the stores are just moving for MTG and Pokemon, so even if there are tables they are all taken by card players. I really need to figure out TTS so I can actually play online when my friends cant play a game irl.

 

[p1138]

Neckbeards I can at least work with. They get a little passionate about the lore and the rules but trannies are insufferable.

It's just reality that Pokemon and Yu-Gi-Oh are way more profitable than Warhammer will ever be for local stores. If you're a mom and pop just trying to stay open I don't blame them for wanting cheap rent, and hosting TCG events every night. This is why the majority of my tabletop games are on TTS now. It's just easier.

Especially when you consider that they buy packs constantly to play, and that 2 6' tables pushed together for one game of 40k could host 8-12 people(depending on how you pack them in) playing card games and buying packs.

 

[Spilled Spaghett]

Yeah, all the stores are just moving for MTG and Pokemon, so even if there are tables they are all taken by card players. I really need to figure out TTS so I can actually play online when my friends cant play a game irl.

It's super simple really. There are better tools to help automate set up and dice rolling. You want ForceOrg and Hutber 40k table. The table comes with maps to play on but you can find other standalone maps to load in or make your own.

All the scripting of models isn't strictly necessary but it makes playing way easier to point at a model and see every weapon and ability in a popup tooltip. Otherwise all you're really doing is picking up models and moving them around like an actual table.

If you need any help I might be able to answer some questions. Tactical Tortoise on YouTube usually has an up to date tutorial since he runs his own online events using TTS.

 

[harbringer883]

It's super simple really. There are better tools to help automate set up and dice rolling. You want ForceOrg and Hunter 40k table. The table comes with maps to play on but you can find other standalone maps to load in or make your own.

Tactical Tortoise on YouTube usually has an up to date tutorial since he runs his own online events using TTS.

Thanks, I will def check him these out.

 

[Paul-Denton]

It's super simple really. There are better tools to help automate set up and dice rolling. You want ForceOrg and Hunter 40k table. The table comes with maps to play on but you can find other standalone maps to load in or make your own.

slowly but surely finishing my rubrics and painting in itself is very fun to me. I quickly lose track of time and currently just enjoy having some little guys to have on my desk. I'm going to tom sawyer my friends into building and painting some of this second pack of rubrics I got for cheap, so i'm hoping I can make some more gw customers from that. Would be great to not have to rely on a random game at the store when I finally have an army. That being said, I definitely need to get into this.

 

[Picnic_Boy]

Do any of yall like AoS at all? some of the minis for it are really cool imo, and the spearhead boxes seem like a good deal for 20-25 minis especially if you play an army of chaos faction in either. Could buy tzeentch spearhead and use tzaangors and screamers from it. Not enough of an interest in AoS to do that, but it's intriguing. Soulblight gravelords are cool too but i'm playing a vampire counts campaign in total war rn so maybe it's all recency bias.

I was into it for a few years, from first edition to third. I patiently waited for the lore to become more interesting to me, but it never happened. It sounds like a kid playing with action figures and using specific terminology from the commercials to narrate it. It's like, "Sigmar used a Soulbarrage to weaken the Espergate, allowing the Duargadin to arrange Grudgesister Artilleryians to counter the Rotghoul Hamhoggers before arrival of the Doomforge Dragraycers."

 

[Salt_Merchant]

Do any of yall like AoS at all? some of the minis for it are really cool imo, and the spearhead boxes seem like a good deal for 20-25 minis especially if you play an army of chaos faction in either. Could buy tzeentch spearhead and use tzaangors and screamers from it. Not enough of an interest in AoS to do that, but it's intriguing. Soulblight gravelords are cool too but i'm playing a vampire counts campaign in total war rn so maybe it's all recency bias.

they certainly seem to give the AOS designers a lot more creative freedom when it comes to model design when compared to 40k

 

[Mr Clark]

Airbrush bros, is it worth getting an Iwata Eclipse or is it just memes?

I gotta be honest, the cheap airbrushes for priming and basing is starting to grate on me.

 

[p1138]

Airbrush bros, is it worth getting an Iwata Eclipse or is it just memes?

I gotta be honest, the cheap airbrushes for priming and basing is starting to grate on me.

"It depends"

If you're still using a cheap chinese $20 master brand or whatever airbrush from amazon a couple years back, throw that shit out there's better.

I currently own 3 airbrushes. A harder and steenbeck infinity(the previous gen), an Iwata eclipse HP-CS, and a Gaahleri GHAD-39 I got for $30 on a black friday sale in 2023. If I had to assign percentages of time I'm using which one... 90% of the time it's the ghaaleri, 10% of the time its the H&S, and the Iwata is collecting dust. The Gaahleri I use exclusively with the .35mm nozzle and the H&S with the .15mm and the tiny cup that only holds like 4 drops of paint, the Iwata I never got anything other than .3mm nozzles(as in plural, I have yet to fuck up a nozzle in the other two, I'll get to that).

The reason for this is that the eclipse by comparison is a pain in the ass to deal with it's nozzles. It's too little material at the very end that is likely to split if you apply too much pressure with the needle which will mean you'll need to order a new nozzle. The nozzle and cap assembly is also tedious as fuck to clean by comparison, as it's a weird brass lump with a tiny tip you never actually unscrew and it's just supposed to sit there and isn't really supported by the cap(the H&S and gaahleri both fit in the cap and have an o-ring where they press against the body) meaning you end up needing to make sure the cap is tensioned just right or it'll leak and you'll end up fucking around with wax to get it to seal or you're fighting with bubbles in the cup and weird spray patterns.

The gaahleri has one obnoxious feature, and it's that the lever arm(at least when I bought mine) is not physically attached to the needle chuck like the iwata however I'd rather have a far easier to deal with nozzle than worry about a part I should only rarely be having to mess with anyway(the H&S just kind of avoids that part altogether). Also I'm not a fan of the opening in the rear cap to get to the needle chuck on the iwata. I don't know why this is the case, and I don't feel like going to go check right now but I think it's too big and doesn't always clock right when screwed into the body leaving it at weird angles with the chuck running across your hand so you have to unscrew it and put it back so it's at the right angle.

Shooting acrylic metallics and primer through a .15mm nozzle is an exercise in frustration as most acrylic primer and metallics the pigment is chunky as fuck compared to everything else, and that's on top of having to deal with tip dry which will also happen eventually(possibly regularly) with any other needle size as well, especially with acrylics. Lacquer/solvent based paint(mr primer, mr color, gaia notes, etc. basically all of the shit you'd normally be using for gunpla and needing VOC filters on your respirator for) will go through just about anything with far less bullshit, it's just that you're using shit that actually has a lot of toxic fumes rather than just a possible dust issue. I mention this because if you're running into tip dry even making sure that the trigger is fully forward before stopping the air to have as little paint on the needle/nozzle as possible, you're still going to be running into tip dry with acrylics and need some cotton swabs handy to wipe it off.

No, do not buy a high end H&S, it's not worth it or necessary. And I'd say that the Iwata is fine but suffers from being an older design that other newer airbrushes in the $45 range(the gaahleri when they aren't on sale) can avoid.

 

[Muad'Dick]

Airbrush bros, is it worth getting an Iwata Eclipse or is it just memes?

I gotta be honest, the cheap airbrushes for priming and basing is starting to grate on me.

I'd say yeah nah.

@p1138 Has said pretty much covered it all. We have a similar taste in airbrushes it seems. I've got a H&S Silverline Evolution (the old one), an Iwata Revolution and something that AK Interactive sent me for free. It looks like the sort of cheap shit you'd pick up on Amazon in one of those deals, but its well engineered and doesn't look like a bargain bucket airbrush once you strip it.

The H&S is the workhorse and the Iwata only gets used for priming because of the big fat 0.5mm nozzle that I've never bothered swapping out for something smaller. The AK one is used for the most vile shit I can throw at it, like colour shift paints, because it just refuses to die no matter how much abuse it gets.

Maintaining the Iwata is a pain in the ass. Not just because you have to treat the nozzle like a Swiss watch, but the H&S just makes everything so laughably easy in comparison. My only gripe with the H&S is the trigger assembly which has a tendency to stick, but running it through the ultrasonic and treating it with some silicone lube seems to do the job for a few weeks.

I will say, there is a time and a place for shitty Chinese airbrushes though. The reason they fail so regularly compared to a more legit airbrush is that they make up for their lack of tolerance in parts with O-rings, gaskets, seals and other assorted fuckery. Some of them are blatant copies of Iwata brushes once you strip them down, but where on an Iwata they are engineered well enough for two parts to provide a seal when they are screwed together, a bootleg will throw a seal of some sort in there. And these seals fail... A lot.

If they're so poorly engineered, then why even bother with them? Because if you're working on a big project like priming a load of scenery they can end up being good value for money. Just treat them as disposable airbrushes. They might not have the most consistent spray pattern and/or you have to crank up the pressure for them to even work, but they cost less than a needle for your better brushes. You don't need to be able to spray a dick on a beetle's back when you're priming. I'd rather buy one of those and drive it into the ground over the course of a full weekend's painting.

Don't pay full price for any of the high end manufacturers. Whatever money you save can go towards buying a service kit or spare needles/nozzles. The parts are where they get you anyway, and you will be needing them.

 

[p1138]

Don't pay full price for any of the high end manufacturers. Whatever money you save can go towards buying a service kit or spare needles/nozzles. The parts are where they get you anyway, and you will be needing them.

Honestly with as cheap and reliable as the gaahleri stuff is, I'd put the money more toward the compressor and this is where the stupid expensive thing comes into play.

Most airbrush compressors are fucking trash. The japanese brand linear compressors will overheat and the chinese ones that generally mount directly to the airbrush are kind of a joke and inconsistent. and until you start getting into big ass industrial air compressors they almost all use the exact same motor design, it's just a matter of if they come with a tank(you want a tank so the compressor doesn't have to run constantly), they're loud as fuck no matter how quiet they claim to be(it's usually in comparison to something you'd get at a home depot), vibrate, make noise, etc.

Silentaire compressors are a brand out of italy that have been around for ages, I picked up one of their OEM unbranded compressors from a nail salon that was going out of business for dirt cheap, that thing lasted me 6 years. Once it finally died(by that point it was 20 years old and used regularly) I replaced it with a silentaire 20A, which is their cheapest option at $700. No, I'm not going to recommend buying that one.

After what seems like fucking forever, spraygunner finally has their own actually silent compressor on the market starting at 350

https://spraygunner.com/collections/no-name-compressors-for-airbrush/products/silent-compressor-for-airbrush-silent-storm

Again, it's expensive, but it's actually priced well. The reason these and the silentaire compressors are actually different is because they use an oiled compressor like from a refrigerator. Yes it means every few years you need to change the oil(more often if you're using it nonstop, or in a shitty environment), but because it's not using an oilless compressor like everything the fuck else on the market that pretends oilless is a selling point the shit is actually silent. I left my silentaire on once for a week and did not notice it kicking on to keep the tank pressurized until I had my foot against it and felt it. Badger also used to sell some oiled motor compressors ages ago some of which I believe were also OEM from silentaire, but we're talking a decade or more at this point. However if you can find one of them cheap enough online somehow, that can be another good option. If you do go browsing online, you'll notice the oiled compressors have a big black tank around the motor itself looking kinda like a weird bowling ball, and of course since they're also made to be used for refrigerators they can actually stand up to running for years and years(your fridge compressor doesn't need the oil changed because it's a sealed system rather than compressing from the open air).

If you're willing to do a DIY job(know proper soldering and brazing) I've seen people re-purpose compressors from refrigerators into air compressors but that's kind of a whole separate other thing and you'd probably already be aware if you could pull that off.

 

[Mr Clark]

For compressor, i have one of those as-186, skipping the cheap and nasty ones. Not a single complaint.

For brushes I have a cheap .3 chinese one that came with the compressor and a Bucasso (.3 .5 and . which is easier on the fingers for long sessions. The cheap one is fine for the base paints, not terrible considering it was free. Bucasso starting to annoy me with nozzle clogs when priming but that could just be me being an impatient retard at times.

The problem i run into is im buying in dollarydoos. Ghaaleri GHAD-39 runs $70. Eclipse runs $220 and H&S Infinity runs $400. Even a Neo runs $120.

The information is extremely helpful to understand some of the fiddly issues with the Eclipse. I still see it as my natural upgrade from what I have, but maybe not an upgrade i should make now.

 

[Muad'Dick]

Honestly with as cheap and reliable as the gaahleri stuff is, I'd put the money more toward the compressor and this is where the stupid expensive thing comes into play.

Yup, definitely. I used a tankless electric compressor way back when, and it was fucking horrible. Even if you ignore the noise, you get a very noticeable pulsing effect with the air flow as the motor tries to keep up with demand.

I've been using a Sparmax TC-610H Plus for a few years now and its been absolutely bulletproof. I wouldn't say it was whisper quiet, but its a hell of a lot more quiet than the last one (a cheap one I bought from Machine Mart for a pittance) and it hasn't missed a beat so far. Its definitely not high end by compressor standards but for how much it cost I couldn't recommend it enough.

I've got an old oiled compressor in the garage for spraying/filling tyres. Its probably about 30 years old now and my old man boosted it from his where he worked. It's a little too heavy duty to lug into the house and I think a 25kg tank is maybe overkill for model painting. I've had this thing for the best part of a decade and I think I've had to change the oil maybe four times. When I used to fuck around with cars more it was in constant use in the evenings/weekends and it was just one of those things you didn't have to think about. Which is the best you can hope for with any equipment you're using.

 

[p1138]

For brushes I have a cheap .3 chinese one that came with the compressor and a Bucasso (.3 .5 and . which is easier on the fingers for long sessions. The cheap one is fine for the base paints, not terrible considering it was free. Bucasso starting to annoy me with nozzle clogs when priming but that could just be me being an impatient retard at times.

Sounds more like tip dry, especially if you're running into that with a .8mm nozzle(that's a big bitch). Like I said in a previous post, especially with acrylics you have to always stop the paint before stopping the air to avoid it happening unnecessarily, but it's always going to be a "thing" even when using thinner "air" formulations from the hobby acrylic brands.

The problem i run into is im buying in dollarydoos. Ghaaleri GHAD-39 runs $70. Eclipse runs $220 and H&S Infinity runs $400. Even a Neo runs $120.

Yeah don't pay those ridiculous prices for Iwata and H&S. The Gaahleri goes on sale every now and then, so it might be worth waiting for that. Since you mentioned dollarydoos, I'll assume Australia and not Canuckistan. I don't have personal experience with these two, but they might have better pricing/availability for you than some of the other stuff. Specifically the GSI Creos Mr. Hobby Procon Boy PS289 or PS771 They're basically Iwata clones at the back end, and they have their own front end assembly along with an adjustment valve built in so you don't need one aftermarket or reaching down to the compressor to make a fine adjustment. Another option depending on their global distribution and pricing could be GREX.

Fortunately we're well past the Paasche/Badger hose connection AIDS as both brands can just be ignored.

The information is extremely helpful to understand some of the fiddly issues with the Eclipse. I still see it as my natural upgrade from what I have, but maybe not an upgrade i should make now.

The eclipse is by no means bad, it's just... outdated if that makes any sense. People have been using them for decades so they get the job done and Iwata doesn't really have a reason to update them either.

Yup, definitely. I used a tankless electric compressor way back when, and it was fucking horrible. Even if you ignore the noise, you get a very noticeable pulsing effect with the air flow as the motor tries to keep up with demand.

I've been using a Sparmax TC-610H Plus for a few years now and its been absolutely bulletproof. I wouldn't say it was whisper quiet, but its a hell of a lot more quiet than the last one (a cheap one I bought from Machine Mart for a pittance) and it hasn't missed a beat so far. Its definitely not high end by compressor standards but for how much it cost I couldn't recommend it enough.

I believe there's some decent compressors out there for a reasonable price, just the noise personally drives me up the fucking wall and it's ridiculous that there's only 2 brands on the market making an oiled airbrush compressor that isn't some industrial monstrosity.

edit: Also this channel, guy is a professional airbrush artist, that does way more detail than most anyone will ever do on a mini, using all sorts of makes/models @Muad'Dick mentioned that you don't need to be able to spray paint a dick on the back of a beetle while priming... this guy could probably do it, and the sack with individual hairs using a .3mm nozzle on a $100 airbrush. Once you get past the shitty chinese $20 amazon junk, there's refinements that can tweak the experience but skill goes a lot longer.

https://www.youtube.com/@theartworkshop/videos

It's like going from a hi-point to practically any other 9mm pistol on the planet. Although I guess if you're in "Straya" that analogy might not work...

 

[Mr Clark]

@p1138

GSI Creos Mr. Hobby Procon Boy
PS289 - $120
PS77 - $240

Ive seen recommendations for the 289, its basically the Neo in pricing but ive heard meh things about Neo

I think why Eclipse is so favoured is partly what you said. Old model, reliable, works for years. So I understand why they dont improve upon it.

Again, very helpful comments. Ill watch the Ghaaleri, PS289 and Eclipse in pricing for a sale. I'll probs go Ghaaleri even if im hesitant for a cheaper/chinese brand.

 

[augment]

I hope whoever designed GW's new "logo" wasn't paid a lot of money.

 

[Penne Dreadful]

I hope whoever designed GW's new "logo" wasn't paid a lot of money.

If only because they use the logo so sparsely these days that the change was apparently about a year ago and no-one noticed until a Tweet about it went viral. The branding these days is all Warhammer and Citadel, with the soulless new logo pretty much restricted to investor reports and the hiring page of their website.

 

[p1138]

I hope whoever designed GW's new "logo" wasn't paid a lot of money.

Probably, but maybe not for the reason you're assuming.

If only because they use the logo so sparsely these days that the change was apparently about a year ago and no-one noticed until a Tweet about it went viral. The branding these days is all Warhammer and Citadel, with the soulless new logo pretty much restricted to investor reports and the hiring page of their website.

Basically this. There's no "Games Workshop 40k" game, there's no "Games Workshop" stores as they've long since been rebranded to warhammer stores and the branding even on minis(and the rest of their hobby products) has been "Citadel" practically forever at this point. Also they've been using this logo on magazines and shit on the back corner near the barcode for what seems like a year now.

Considering how old this is I'm not going to start laughging and pointing and screeching "TOURIST" at people, but will use this opportunity to show people something. Here is just some examples from White Dwarf issue #20 Aug/Sep 1980


In fact they used that same logo up through at least issue 60 in 1984 when referring to the company


But this doesn't make an appearance until issue 51 to advertise specifically the retail store, and of course it's not the original signage for the retail store either

edit: And to show it's not just a WD thing, here's a page from their 1982 catalog

 

[Miriam Margoyles]

Just a quick poll, guys - how many heterosexual men do you know that use the phrase, "YAAAAAS"?

Yes, it's Midwinter Minis again. He spent an embarrassing amount of money on a load of broken old shit, then made an unboxing video all about it, running his fat hands all over the miscast, broken resin like a Poundland, Warhammer version of Stuart Ashens. It's quite a bizarre video in some ways, honestly. To start with, he pours himself a glass of red wine and makes a comment about how this is 'Midwinter Minis after dark', and the whole thing has this weird vibe that's halfway between 'unboxing video' and 'awkward, uncomfortable date' which I can't quite get over.

There's a lot of Nerd Crew-esque affirmations that the absolute garbage he's spunked good money up the wall on is 'very cool', though.