- Joined
- Sep 12, 2018
stop talking about it and do it right now.
Warhammer 40k
- Thread starter Great Unclean Chris
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- Joined
- Nov 10, 2019
Ok I'll go fill up my water pot. Thanks
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2021
1. Contrast paints. All the grognards moan about newbs who can’t paint right, then go out and buy contrast paints when no one is looking.
2. Simple color schemes. 3-4 colors are perfectly fine for most non-character models.
3. Get over perfectionism. This was my big stumbling block. Tabletop standard is good enough.
4. Use washes and drybrushes. Goes hand-in-hand with #2. Forget highlights and shades for anything except characters, and maybe not even then.
5. Look up ‘speed painting” or “contrast painting” for your army on youtube. There are people there who can do some amazing stuff in a short period of time.
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2018
Contrast has it's uses like any other type of paint. People who use it just as "gotta get my 3 color minimum" usually don't come out well. Especially on power armor. Personally I'd only recommend it organic bits and cloth unless you have an actual plan on the scheme.
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2018
Added to that, Contrasts can be a fiddly bitch. You can get some good results, but you have to be willing to work at it. That's why I think it's been a mistake for GW to market them as "easy mode" paints for beginners. That said, Iyanden Yellow has made painting my Fists about as easy as possible, and Yriel Yellow over Iyanden produces a richer color than the old Averland/Yriel combo I used to use.
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2018
Contrasts are also not consistent on saturation and coverage, so you have to experiment if you want to use them to any impressive effect. You have things like black templar black , flesh Tearers red, and apothecary white that are real versatile and can be used for pretty much whatever. Then you have things like basilicarum grey Which has somewhat more subtle uses. Then you have the very saturated stuff like iyadan or teradon that work great as glazes or you really have to think and do math about how much to cut it down to actually use them for army painting.
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2021
Well, you can’t just slap on some contrasts and call it a day. But then again, I do a lot of organics and monsters and I don’t have any space marines..
I learned from this video how to do a green basecoat->Astra Militarum contrast->Umber Wash->Dead Flesh drybrush on my Nurgle armors that gives a great, crusty-looking effect. But you can get away with that on DG, maybe not so much on SM.
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2018
The problem is contrasts were initially marketed as "slap it on and call it a day", and you do see a lot of people treat it like that and it looks terrible. Contrast can very easily be a trap if you use them mindlessly.
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2016
Contrasts have been a mixed bag for me, but Magos Purple with some Vallejo pale skin drybushed over it has been a godsend for my Genestealer Cult.
Just Some Other Guy
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2018
I'd say grab an airbrush for base coating. Grab a dark, medium, and light tone and work your way up while overlapping them.
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2019
Recently they changed their rules, could be 10% non-GW material. Now it has to be 100% GW or hand crafted. Greenstuff sculpting, or you have to prove you DESIGNED and 3D printed any bits, printing someone else's files gets you the boot.
On contrasts, I've tried 3, Apothecary White, Black Templar, and Ork Flesh. Black Templar works fine, nothing to write home about, White is essentially a wash for something already white, glad to have it for white hair/fur, but it makes what your painting less white and I could never do detail with with it. Ork Flesh was probably the first I used and I might of used it improperly, but I've put it to some good use giving edges to necron phase blades. Considering the yellow.
In general, my experience with contrasts is that they are great washes over real paint.
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2014
WTF happened to rule of cool? There’s some seriously talented modellers out there and that’s what they should be show casing, you know the hobby.
I’ve mentioned earlier in the thread but when frontline gaming got GW backing they made it so when their tournament games were streamed if someone wasn’t using GW models they couldn’t play on the stream and actually lost that game.
Fuck the GW tourney jannies!
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2018
That is a handsome model if I do say so myself.
augment
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2020
I'm just laughing my ass off at this. They clearly know they're boned, 3D printing is gonna end their whole racket, they were presented with 2 choices: 1) embrace change and allow for lax tourney entrance requrimentes (yes to vallejo, greenstuff, 3rd party accessories) plus encourage customization and creativity in hopes of retaking their lost goodwill with the fans.
And then there's 2) ban everything that isn't GW/Citadel halal, in hopes of nurturing an exclusive club that the kids "will want to join" so as to not miss out (FOMO shit again).
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2019
Been playing with my 3D Printer. Outside of a lack of 1:1 STL files (unless there's a separate Mega I don't know of or some other discord than PW's, which prohibits 1:1s) I've been printing plenty of shit that's equivalent to GW, and I still haven't bothered to adjust my printer's settings.
Once I'm done with this batch of resin and have moved onto 4k resin, I'm going to print an entire Imperial Knights army for about oh, $5 I think? Only thing missing is a good Knight Valiant (the BIG ones) STL, because PW won't link the existing one cause it's 1:1. Custodes, too, are apparently pretty damned printable, so that's on the list as well.
Just Some Other Guy
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2018
I'd imagine it'd run you more than that for a standard 2k list, but it'll still be a fraction of what GW wants for melted plastic pellets. For instance I'm at probably around $100 of resin for around 2500 or so pts of IG. 7 Lemans, 60 guards, a few leaders, 2 manticores, and 9 mortar teams. This is also counting probably 100-200ml in screwups. My resin cost was about $22/kg.
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2021
What types of 3D printers are y'all using? I've been 'mirin them from afar.
.....
I'm newish to warhammer painting and WH in general (tfw only listened to 3/4 of leutins videos and all of TTS universe thing) but I have 12 years experience painting other things that are even more expensive than WH (hard to imagine ik) and general art 3D painting for bux.
As far as my years of painting autism, I will say I do like the metallics and washes and neons from GW some of their matts dry shittily . I will readily try out any brand if anyone has a spergy fave.
My Other Painter Secrets from someone the outside WH world
.....
I'm newish to warhammer painting and WH in general (tfw only listened to 3/4 of leutins videos and all of TTS universe thing) but I have 12 years experience painting other things that are even more expensive than WH (hard to imagine ik) and general art 3D painting for bux.
As far as my years of painting autism, I will say I do like the metallics and washes and neons from GW some of their matts dry shittily . I will readily try out any brand if anyone has a spergy fave.
- Model Master (i like them, jar type is superior to squirt paint quality wise)
- Vallejo (the ones for their army series are really good at capturing
- Army painter (not bad, great price can get a giant fucking set for $94 usd)
My Other Painter Secrets from someone the outside WH world
- Brushes for nail art and manicure art are made small enough to do model detailing and can sometimes be bought for cheaper. Those little dotting tools also are good if you need a small dotted detail.
- If you insist on painting your straight lines freehand, get one of these (the longest one, or any other brush that has a long ass bristle it makes straight lines easier, but this brand is for the most autistic of painters)
- Msc (Mr. Super clear, i recommend Matt or Satin), best primer and finisher in the galaxy
- Pearl/ex varnish and pigment. Very pearlescent and other worldly. leaves a lovely effect for Harlequin and Dark Eldar and ships. It can be bought and added to airbrush paint or applied manually.
- Non oil based makeup can be used as dry pigment(so eyeshadows and blushes) so borrow your gf's makeup...im sure she will understand it was for the Emperor/ greater good.
- Rembrant chalk pastels are based dry medium. Great for bases and certain special effects.scrape some pigment off and use a brush to apply it Just use a clear primer between layers to build a color.
- Prismacolor colored pencils are easier to make straight lines with and do MNM effects. I bought my bigger set on eBae for cheap. Just keep em sharpened and only use them after a primer.
- If you have a Cricut machine or know a winemom with one, theres special material you can get so you can scale and make your own reusable decals so you don't have to fully hand paint shoulders anymore
- You can revive old dried paint with acrylic thinner/reducer.
- B&J "The Masters" Brush Cleaner and preserver will revive your shittiest dirtiest brushes. Its like magic and way cheaper than rebuying spendy brushes
- Use tiny ass brushes that have some form of grip to defeat any hand pain.
Just Some Other Guy
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2018
Started with the original Elegoo Mars. Went to their Saturn, but had a couple of bad QC issues with it so I returned it. Ended up spending somewhat more to get an Epax E10. QC/Support is quite a bit better and it has tons of room inside for modding/future upgrades (such as the 10.1"/5k one they just put for pre-order).
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2014
Kill team trailer had dropped and the description is rather interesting
Redesigned from the ground up?
Redesigned from the ground up?