Me too. I thought the appropriate amount of time had passed for me to no longer be considered a retard for complaining about it. I was genuinely hoping that I was being stupid and there was some common sense thing that I should have done by now to unlock my ability to edit my account.
I have a metal Samsung BAR and it's been fine, though I haven't really put it through anything extreme. USB-A only, but there you have it.
I'd recommend a Kingston Data Traveler Micro or a Micro Duo if dual connectors are an absolute must but the flip cover will always introduce a degree of flimsyness.
I can faintly remember some weeb friend of mine complaining about loudly animated subtitles breaking X software and exotic codecs/encoding parameters (uh... 10 bit 4:4:4? is that a thing?) breaking Y software.
I have never gotten anime to not have the constant buffering issue since I installed it. As far as I can tell it's doing it with .mkv and .MP4 files. I know Plex has to sometimes convert video so maybe that is the issue, I'm just running it on an RPi with an SSD.
I think Boris has the right idea, check the details of the anime files themselves. I know that anime might use very fancy embedded soft-subtitles and that might make Plex/RPi shit itself trying to burn them in as part of transcoding because not everything can read and use that format, that might be part of it.
Are you powering anything off USB? There might be an issue with the power brick as well. Even most of the recent-ish PSU models have abysmal 10% and especially 2% load efficiency, that too could contribute.Does anyone have any idea what could possibly cause a Dell Optiplex 7460 All-in-One to draw between 17 and 20 watts while being powered off, and straight 20 watts while in sleep mode?
I was taking measurements of a nother system that's supposed to run 24/7, and for shits and giggles decided to test my main computer - I was quite surpised by those numbers.
Now, the tool I used is certainly not the most accurate but at least the readings are - no matter what's being tested - believable; a ~2010 era office-tier PC drawing between 65 and 90 watts makes sense, a thin client drawing 11 watts makes sense, a single monitor drawing 20 watts makes sense ...
But, a 2018-built business computer that's compliant with both Energy Star 6.1 and the stricter European equivalent which requires a system to consume less than 0.5 watts both in sleep mode and powered off consuming 40 times as much makes no sense. I mean, those are 2005 gaming PC numbers
Nope, nothing is being powered over USB, in fact USB power share (and other useless features that could potentially be the cause) is disabled in the BIOS. Even with nothing but the power cord connected, the system is constantly drawing 17 to 20 watts while sleeping/powered off. I already suspected a bad-efficiency (chink made) PSU to be the cause, but even when idling in Windows desktop, power consumption never really exceeds ~35 watts which IMHO rules out PSU efficiency issues.
ASUS ROG Strix Arion Lite... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZLM93CV
I was definitely looking for something smaller since I want it on my keychain, but I'll keep that in mind the next time I'm in the market for a larger external disk which needs to be very fast (which isn't very often, to be fair).
Power bricks typically have a higher standby draw but it shouldn't be that much with nothing else being powered.
I go for a brand called Tozo, bought 2 pairs so far. They can survive a lot of water, and they've never been too quiet for me even near loud machines. Most of a days worth of battery in each one as well.
