'No Stupid Questions' (NSQ) Internet & Technology Edition

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I just found out one can't email *.BAT files in a ZIP to oneself over GMail, because it's a violation of some security policy.

Even if it's just a simple batch file that launches a program in DOS.
Blame all the idiots who open batch files that say RMDIR /sneed /Q C:\WINDOWS for that.

I'm leaving that as it is, as a condemnation of our stupidest and unfunniest word filter.
 
I just found out one can't email *.BAT files in a ZIP to oneself over GMail, because it's a violation of some security policy.

Even if it's just a simple batch file that launches a program in DOS.
Change it from .zip to... .dat maybe? That used to work when e-mailing code and executables to oneself (at one point in my life company internet and gmail was faster than USB drives).

If that doesn't work, use Winrar, set it to a passworded archive and encrypt filenames or whatever the setting is called, that works 100%. Maybe switch the extension to nothing or .dat if gmail still complains. No compression of course, that takes time and the workday is over in four minutes.
 
Not yet, I will try and run a few sample episodes in a few hours and report back. I appreciate you checking in, been busy with work/personal stuff last few weeks and it's fallen on the back burner.
There's a lot of self interest, if it works I have learned something about plex without using it. Just remember to use the copy presets.
 
Does anyone have any idea what could possibly cause a Dell Optiplex 7460 All-in-One to draw between 17 and 20 watts while being powered off, and straight 20 watts while in sleep mode?
I was taking measurements of a nother system that's supposed to run 24/7, and for shits and giggles decided to test my main computer - I was quite surpised by those numbers.
Check if Wake on LAN is enabled in the BIOS.

If you don't actually remotely wake up that machine by sending arbitary packets from your router or other PCs, turn it off.
 
There's a lot of self interest, if it works I have learned something about plex without using it. Just remember to use the copy presets.

So it's gotten more confusing. Some of my anime actually works on Plex, I just never tried to watch other series after several others had this problem. Converting the videos that endlessly buffer doesn't seem to fix it. I'm sure I need to look into this further to figure out why some work and others don't. Part of me wonders if it is hardware limitations with an RPi 3.
 
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I tried to upgrade RAM (from 2x8 to 2x16) and my laptop won't boot. The first time I tried to boot it it showed a glitchy logo and for ~15 seconds and went dark. Nothing on subsequent attempts except the power light and the fan. No unusual sounds either. The only difference (besides size) is frequency (was 2400, now 3200). Max memory per wmic memphysical get maxcapacity is 33554432. When I put the old sticks back in it works again (I'm posting from it right now).

What can I try before taking it to repairs?
 
So it's gotten more confusing. Some of my anime actually works on Plex, I just never tried to watch other series after several others had this problem. Converting the videos that endlessly buffer doesn't seem to fix it. I'm sure I need to look into this further to figure out why some work and others don't. Part of me wonders if it is hardware limitations with an RPi 3.
Do you know what codec they are using? The troublesome ones might be encoded in HVC/h265 and that could make it struggle.
 
I tried to upgrade RAM (from 2x8 to 2x16) and my laptop won't boot. The first time I tried to boot it it showed a glitchy logo and for ~15 seconds and went dark. Nothing on subsequent attempts except the power light and the fan. No unusual sounds either. The only difference (besides size) is frequency (was 2400, now 3200). Max memory per wmic memphysical get maxcapacity is 33554432. When I put the old sticks back in it works again (I'm posting from it right now).

What can I try before taking it to repairs?
Extremely dumb questions: is it the same type of DDR? Do you have XMP enabled? AFAIK laptop SO-DIMMs work somewhat diffe
 
Extremely dumb questions: is it the same type of DDR?
Both are DDR4, I think a different type of DDR won't even fit.
Do you have XMP enabled?
Probably not, I know for sure no one fucked with BIOS settings.
The old sticks are 2400 MHz and run at 2400.
The new sticks are 3200 MHz and "Intel XMP certified".

I expected the new sticks to automatically run at 2400. I do not care about overclocking, I only want docker to stop writing to disk at 5MB/s.

I took the laptop for repairs today; having checked MSI's authorized service database, the repairs guy said it should work. "Maybe your mobo doesn't downscale the frequency. Look, the timings on your old sticks are better, maybe this is why. I'm not an expert at MSIs, but I know they're fussy."
 
A friend of mine gifted me a new gaming laptop as an early Christmas present since my Apple laptop is slowly giving up the ghost (and my constant bitching about being on Apple architecture for a good 10+ years of my life) and everything about it looks good. And yes, I know gaming laptops are meme.

But there’s one caveat: it comes with Windows 11 Home preinstalled. If I wanted to make it a 80-20 gaming/personal use laptop should I downgrade to Windows 10 or is 11 fine for what I need and, if the former option is the way to go, how do I go about downgrading? I’m also asking this because I remember hearing some iffy things about 11 (requires a Microsoft account to use, bad menus, no native antivirus software) and I don’t want to deal with that shit.

Oh, and what’s the best brand of SODIMM RR4 for upgrading? I’ve heard that Kingston is okay but the ones I’m seeing mention AMD Ryzen and my laptop’s on an Intel processor.
 
But there’s one caveat: it comes with Windows 11 Home preinstalled. If I wanted to make it a 80-20 gaming/personal use laptop should I downgrade to Windows 10 or is 11 fine for what I need
Whatever you do, you shouldn't be running a Home version of Windows. Most of the "Windows nightmares" stuff you mention can be remediated (at least to some degree), but not on Home.
 
Oh, and what’s the best brand of SODIMM RR4 for upgrading? I’ve heard that Kingston is okay but the ones I’m seeing mention AMD Ryzen and my laptop’s on an Intel processor.
SO-DIMMs don't have the same kind of wide selection - heat spreaders and ARGB LEDs and shit - like desktop kits. I'd say you can't really go wrong with kits of Corsair Vengeance or G.Skill Ripjaws if you're willing to pay some extra for higher clock speeds. If not, you could go with Samsung, Crucial, or Hynix. Patriot Viper Steels maybe, if you absolutely need to have heat spreaders on your RAM kit.
 
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What are the newest/last generation of motherboards that have full drivers for Win 7 64 bit?

Trying to help someone with a game machine build that will run modern stuff but is completely airgapped from the internet.
 
Both are DDR4, I think a different type of DDR won't even fit.

Probably not, I know for sure no one fucked with BIOS settings.
The old sticks are 2400 MHz and run at 2400.
The new sticks are 3200 MHz and "Intel XMP certified".

I expected the new sticks to automatically run at 2400. I do not care about overclocking, I only want docker to stop writing to disk at 5MB/s.

I took the laptop for repairs today; having checked MSI's authorized service database, the repairs guy said it should work. "Maybe your mobo doesn't downscale the frequency. Look, the timings on your old sticks are better, maybe this is why. I'm not an expert at MSIs, but I know they're fussy."
The stated timings on the 3200 is for 3200, they're better a lower clock frequencies. Probably, I'm pretty sure they will use the JEDEC standard if XMP isn't enabled. Laptops can be fussy in general for reasons I don't understand, there's SODIMMs that says "only for AMD" which sounds like bullshit until you put them in an Intel laptop. What's different about that RAM? I don't know.

Have you tried running with only one 16GB stick or mix-matching an 8GB with a 16GB? Take a look at the 8GB sticks and google the numbers on them, they might be low voltage sodimms and the 16GB sticks might not be.

Kingston is good for compatibility and they have extensive lists of systems different RAM is certified for on their website, it's my "urgh just work" brand.
 
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