Mega Rad Gun Thread

I'd be curious to hear some more of your thoughts on this. I own a 5.5" AR9 that I think fits the bill for home defense when you factor in things like over pen, 3 point contact, etc in a "bump in the night" scenario. But I'm all ears if there's a better tool for the job in your opinion
Your weapon will fulfill its intended role. While stating I don't think PCCs or pistol caliber PDWs are the best tools for home defense I am not claiming they won't work. Clubby made some good points a few posts back about why one may opt for a PCC over an SBR or legal-pistol type rifle. I agree and/or understand his rationale though I still prefer rifle rounds for ending fights quickly. I've trained enough with my suppressed SBR in .300 BLK that I would prefer that for engaging others in a building or inside 100m. It is admittedly specialized for that and almost nothing else. Please remember this is my opinion and it is biased by time spent with the platform and also my limited experience fighting with rifles.

Train and practice regularly with your preferred platform. If you and it and can operate reliably and accurately you will be much more difficult to kill in a fight, wherever it occurs.
 
Your weapon will fulfill its intended role. While stating I don't think PCCs or pistol caliber PDWs are the best tools for home defense I am not claiming they won't work. Clubby made some good points a few posts back about why one may opt for a PCC over an SBR or legal-pistol type rifle. I agree and/or understand his rationale though I still prefer rifle rounds for ending fights quickly. I've trained enough with my suppressed SBR in .300 BLK that I would prefer that for engaging others in a building or inside 100m. It is admittedly specialized for that and almost nothing else. Please remember this is my opinion and it is biased by time spent with the platform and also my limited experience fighting with rifles.

Train and practice regularly with your preferred platform. If you and it and can operate reliably and accurately you will be much more difficult to kill in a fight, wherever it occurs.
Definitely appreciate the response, I'm always open to hearing others opinions and thought processes behind what they've found to work best.

I also have a "gucci" 10.5" AR15 that gets abused and brought to every range sesh but I just worry (like most others) that over pen on a 556 would do some serious damage if, heaven forbid, it hit something valuable on the other side of a wall. While 9mm HP will most likely blow through someone of decent size if it doesn't expand fully, and rip through a sheet of drywall, I tend to worry less compared to the former. That may be an old fudd way of thinking of it, but like you said, as long as you fire your CCW and SHTF guns regularly you're already leagues ahead of a nigger with his glock fawty.
 
They might not be the most bougie but make good enough and make sure the everyman (woman) can afford to defend themselves.

PSA kicks ass.
 

Attachments

  • Jan_24_2024_11_32_53.jpg
    Jan_24_2024_11_32_53.jpg
    104 KB · Views: 50
but I just worry (like most others) that over pen on a 556
high velocity .223 under 50gr tends to fragment readily when striking even mildly "hard" objects like a few layers of drywall. enhancing this can be done with frangible or sintered ammunition. this also can work for 9mm or other calibers, but the goal is reduce the energy carried as much as possible after striking the first barrier. they can still penetrate and over penetrate, but the likelihood is lessened. of the ones i've used, Fiocchi Sinterfire 45gr frangible .223 seems to work well in shoot houses and failing to penetrate 2x6 boards and a cheap magtag washing machine shell (no motor, empty drum, literally a sheet metal box with a plastic drum inside).

since CA has regulated lead-free projectiles for hunting, there's a good variety of lead-free projectiles which includes frangibles and monolithics and synthetics. i have enough leftover crap that if it comes down to it, i can put together a box of truth frangible edition for your peace of mind.

 
This discussion of Trijicon battery ACOGs comes at an opportune time. I've felt a TA110, their 3.5x35 led model, on order but I'm having second thoughts. Why not just go with an LPVO and benefit from multiple magnification? That being said, the acog will be lighter and probably tougher than what's in my price range. Not sold either way tbh.
LPVOs are great as you're getting two optics in one. A 1x red dot or illuminated reticle without holo/red dot astigmatism fuzziness and a 6-8-10x scope on the long end

Fwiw I'm of the opinion that 1-6x or 1-8x is as much magnification an AR or AK needs
As a fellow H9 owner (complete with aluminum frame upgrade)... It might seem unnecessary but it kind of isn't. Looking at the TFB video they really did rework a lot of parts, most visibly the recoil rod and its base which was a huge problem on the originals.

They make a big deal about the new CHF barrel too which was mentioned as having a short lifetime on the original - which is why I bought three in the parts sellout.

It'd be nice if the serialized cassette were compatible so we could get a parts kit upgrade but I reeeeally don't think they want to touch the legacy Hudsons with a ten foot pole. Also amusing they mentioned tolerance stacking as being one of the main issues the H9 was so inconsistent - when people touted the owner's machinst background as an advantage.
Ouch. Yeah making one excellent prototype gun isn't the same as mass production....
I wish I could have freefloating with MOE or CAR-15 handguards.


Like said, they won't, they got Marlin for a complete steal and they're gonna make that brand count. At most you can maybe hope that they may try to revive the automatic some day.


Probably. The 1854 moniker is a little dumb though, it seems to play on when Smith and Wesson (the persons) got involved with the Volcanic, but this gun is presumably not a clone of the Volcanic action since they likely want to make money. I guess it makes the gun sound like a continuation of an old design, like the Winchesters and Marlins, but I'm also gonna assume that it's a copy of established Winchester or Marlin designs.
Hehe a 100% Volcanic clone would be hilarious.

As for Ruger, the moment they roll out the .357 Marlin I'm getting one..... I honestly thought it would have been this week
The tolerance stacking bit I find amusing.
IIRC cinnamon wafflebuns very own KEArms was a supplier to Hudson and got sued by them for delivering substandard parts, of course after KE sued Hudson because they refused to pay them for said parts.
..... Is "cinnamon wafflebuns" short for Brownells?
If you use an item, the replaceable parts might wear out! EGADS

The human mind is functionally unable to deal with the concept of entropy, or more specifically its consequences.

Edit: I wonder how they feel about keeping magazines loaded lmao
Hehehe same people that refuse to redline a sports car made after the 1970s because "the engine might get hurt"
Those are much more vulnerable, generally, but when you don't have the primer deforming from the hammer or pin, that energy still has to actually go somewhere, it doesn't just disappear. Not a catastrophe with anything half modern, but it's gonna add up if you do it a lot, so using good snapcaps doesn't hurt if you want a lot of dryfire practice.
Yep. Especially for .22lr revolvers as people LOVE dry firing those. I've always been paranoid about dry firing .22lr anything ( especially something like a 10/22 ) after seeing a Llama .22lr revolver with legitimate pitting in the cylinder from dry firing at a gun store.
Now what I don't understand is that these guys are apparently Ukrainian special forces, so I don't really understand what's going on here. Like, you can requisition a PKM or captured PKP and bullpup it or just request a 240L or MG5, you don't have to weld a bike frame to a scavenged PKT (although the PKT's solenoid firing mechanism could allow for a potentially superior trigger pull)
They want and need more firepower. Ammo expenditures are so great that both sides have literally shot GPMGs/LMGs to death so they gotta use what they have.

The amount of M240s (Bravos) and MG5s given to Ukraine is laughable.
Desert Tech has managed to remove 51 parts from their next generation not an MDR rifle
Have the removed pederasts from their cult as well?

I (kinda) kid but it taints the company.

Hopefully this MDR 2.0 isn't a disaster like MDR 1.0.
You could get a Trijicon Credo 1-6 sfp with a nice mount for that price. Similar BDC to the TA110 m193 Acog. Got one over the holidays, but I haven't had the chance to take it out to distance yet.
That ones excellent, just get the own with the daylight brightness dot
can make two recommendations. This one can be had for $1349 right now and EuroOptic will offer free expedited shipping. I have two of them and while they work well, the reticle at lower power is not good. The second one I do not personally own but I've looked through one and I was impressed.

LPVOs are an almost textbook case of "there's always compromises" and "you get what you pay for." Still, I think to noticeably surpass these two scopes one has to pay a lot more and I don't believe the performance gap is particularly large.
The Delta Striker is allegedly made in the exact same factory with near identical parts as the Trijicon Credo 1-6x.
To little fanfare PSA has announced a product that I believe has the potential to be revolutionary, the E4 bolt.
Beefed up and rounded lugs, dual ejectors and enhanced spring. Essentially a KAC E3 but will be cheaper and PSA will produce more of them in a year than KAC would have produced in a decade
Goddamn PSA is on a roll. As long as they can keep the QC up (big if), this boot is a big deal.
Because what the world really needs is a belt fed automatic rifle that costs $4 a pop. God only knows what sustained fire would do to that can.
Melt it.... It would melt
PSA is running a vote on their site for some upcoming weapons.
Video

Four flavors of Dagger ( .22, Full size long AKA G17, 10MM Compact and "Tactical" .45
View attachment 5662949 View attachment 5662950 View attachment 5662951 View attachment 5662952

A build it yourself Bolt action, .308 and 6.5 Creedmor first
View attachment 5662960

Olcan ( Bullpup JAKL, compatible with existing JAKL uppers )
View attachment 5662973

Vuk ( AKV521 )
View attachment 5662986

570 ( Build it yourself 12 gauge, 870 stock and handguard compatible )
View attachment 5662982

9MM JAKL
View attachment 5662961

.308 JAKL
View attachment 5662988

Enhanced Sabre M4
View attachment 5662990

The two most interesting to me, the X5.7 (MP7 at home)
View attachment 5662963

And a grenade launcher (37MM?) in both standalone and underbarrel attachment forms
View attachment 5662968
Dear God PSA is out of control. For me, the Bullpup JAKL is neat, the upgraded SABRE M4 is really interesting and the UGL is just fucking BASED.

The build you own Shotgun and bolt gun is really neat too, as is the .22lr DAGR.


They might not be the most bougie but make good enough and make sure the everyman (woman) can afford to defend themselves.

PSA kicks ass.
Yep, PSA has gone from the "Kirkland" AR guys to "hmmmm what gun can we make today and undercut another company with while still making affordable guns all day everyday"
 
On the same subject I have been looking for the exact video forever but IIRC Jame Yeager mentioned the life of a .40 is significantly shorter than a 9mm or .45 due to the higher operating pressure.
I've heard it said before, and the rationale is that many .40 pistols are basically just caliber conversions of 9mm pistols, so they're handling a lot more than they were strictly meant to. The inverse of this would be the H&K USP, which was designed around .40 and then adapted to 9mm, being nicely overbuilt as a result.
 
So this past week I completed the retarded training requirement to get a carry permit in my state. It's similar to Utah's class where they want you to be informed on legislationm but it included a live fire portion.Training requirements consisted of obtaining a certificate of completion of a class that highlights "Use of Force" which highlights things like constructive authority, physical force, mechanical force, non-deadly force and deadly force as defined in my state and what your legal justifications are, because under no circumstance are you allowed to defend yourself in public or defend property.

Ex: You're getting carjacked, you must drive away or let them take your car.

The only time where you're legally allowed to blow out a lung is when someone's in your dwelling (anywhere that is not a place of business) unwelcome.

Anyway, the shooting portion was a complete waste of time. You have to fire at and hit a Q target at a minimum of 40 times (total course of 50 rounds, minimum score 80% is 40 rounds) at distances of 3 yards, 7 yards, 10 yards, and 15 yards. At each distance you draw from a holster, fire a string of 5 rounds, reholster, draw again for a second string of 5 at that distance.

When all of the above is completed, you get a stack of paperwork signed with your scores and certificates that you send to the state police when you apply for a permit. Complete waste of $300 and a whole Sunday.
 
Introducing- Ohio Ordnance's REAPR
("recoil enhanced automatic precision rifle")

It looks like an Americanized MG3 (or Ameli); modularized/chassisfied, gamerized, and in .338 magnum. Recoil enhanced, indeed.
:story:

Cool, but definitely not for us plebs.
My dick is hard. Now give me one in semi auto. In .300 Winchester Magnum, God's magnum.
Hehe a 100% Volcanic clone would be hilarious.

As for Ruger, the moment they roll out the .357 Marlin I'm getting one..... I honestly thought it would have been this week
Personally hoping for that too. I'd be able to use my stock of 38 special in it.
I've heard it said before, and the rationale is that many .40 pistols are basically just caliber conversions of 9mm pistols, so they're handling a lot more than they were strictly meant to. The inverse of this would be the H&K USP, which was designed around .40 and then adapted to 9mm, being nicely overbuilt as a result.
Even with that said, I still want a 40 cal, even if it's just a conversion. Love shooting 40.
 
The only time where you're legally allowed to blow out a lung is when someone's in your dwelling (anywhere that is not a place of business) unwelcome.
I remember my course having a similar talk and I wish it was a little more on depth but it would have been going into the realms of legal advice. There were two big takeaways i got one is the gun you used in self defense better not as much have a single part replaced or your fucked cause the prosecution will see that as you creating an enticement to shoot and the other is you better hope that bump in the night you just killed breaking into your house isn't black.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Falcos_Commisar
Yep. Especially for .22lr revolvers as people LOVE dry firing those. I've always been paranoid about dry firing .22lr anything ( especially something like a 10/22 ) after seeing a Llama .22lr revolver with legitimate pitting in the cylinder from dry firing at a gun store.
Does anyone actually make .22 LR snap caps? I admit I've never looked for them but also I don't see how they could be made.
Have the removed pederasts from their cult as well?

I (kinda) kid but it taints the company.
Wait, what?
The Delta Striker is allegedly made in the exact same factory with near identical parts as the Trijicon Credo 1-6x.
This wouldn't surprise me. Frankly I thought that it would be made in the same factory as the Eotech Vudu. It looks and operates very similarly. Isn't it like this for most of these LPVOs that are of a certain price point?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Falcos_Commisar
Does anyone actually make .22 LR snap caps? I admit I've never looked for them but also I don't see how they could be made.
They do I've seen them in my local shop they don't look like you standard snap cap rather just a .22 shaped piece of plastic. On the topic what's the better choice for a snap cap? Rubber primer or a copper primer?
 
My dick is hard. Now give me one in semi auto. In .300 Winchester Magnum, God's magnum.
I dunno about hard, maybe a semi. :tomgirl:

It's still cool though, and the marketing for it is pretty funny in an obvious, over the top way. But I'd still like a closer look at the bolt & operating system.

Speaking of:
Breakdown & internals of "REAPR"
:thinking:
Hard to tell if it's roller-locked or similar, but it really does look like an "enhanced" Ameli. Not that there's anything wrong with the concept, I just wonder why they'd pick that particular caliber (even though it does swap to 7.62 NATO).

Edit:
I've always found this fascinating: how musket & rifle barrels forged in the 18th century.
Rifle-boring.-3-Cranking-rotating-drill-bit-upon-which-barrel-is-pushed.png
"From a flat bar of soft iron, hand forged into a gun barrel; laboriously bored and rifled… in a shop long since silent, fashioned a rifle which changed the whole course of world history."
— Captain John G. W. Dillin, The Kentucky Rifle
How, since the 15th century and right up to the American Revolution, did weapon manufacturers drill a hole in an iron barrel flawlessly straight and over three feet long? And how was the hole maintained so perfectly parallel to the axis of an iron rod, that when a bullet was launched, it flew true to its target? The answer was not drilling, but boring. With a drill machine, the workpiece was held still while the material was penetrated. Whereas a boring machine moves the workpiece against the milling cutter, hence a boring mill, both hand or water driven.

The technology of shaping a gun barrel with a precise and centered hole, primitive as it was, by the 18th century, became a discipline of meticulous and time intense mastering. It had flourished to produce some of the most accurate weaponry of precision; one of the finest examples – the Kentucky long rifle. Replica testing at Colonial Williamsburg Virginia proved these rifles produced a bore to diametral tolerances within 0.0005 of an inch; all by hand! Comparable to the accuracy of today’s complex machinery, it is mind boggling. As gun experts will tell you, ‘it can’t get much better than that.’

How gunsmiths and blacksmiths ended up with a near perfect hole in a long tube of wrought iron involved the same basic principles that allowed Alexander the Great’s armorers to crank out spears and swords; heat and hammer. Add to that an ingenious twist of a rotating boring mechanism, and the result was a weapon that could hit a squirrel from a branch at 200 yards.

Two-Step Process With a Third Step if to be Rifled​

Prior to the American Revolution and on into the 19th century, wrought iron was used in the barrels of muskets and rifles, whereas cast iron and brass were used for cannon; later wrought iron was used for the breech and by the 1860’s, the whole cannon. Steel (induced carbon to wrought iron in a closed furnace) and case-hardened iron (by the amount of slag in the iron) formed working parts of the gun; such as trigger and guards, springs, flint mechanisms, etc.

If only one tool was used to both make and expand the hole in the barrel, it would be less precise. The process of hand manufacturing a gun barrel before the advent of gas and electric driven machinery was basically a two-step process. Three steps if the barrel were to be rifled.

  • First the barrel was fashioned from flattened wrought iron that was hammered and wrapped around a steel rod to precent the tube collapsing. When the rod was removed, the result was a hole in the center that would be smaller than the finished hole.
  • Secondly, the hole was enlarged, cleansed, and polished through precise boring to fit the caliber of a particularly sized shot or bullet.
  • For rifle barrel, it required the additional boring of grooves along the inside tube called ‘rifling.’ This set the bullet spinning as it was launched. This stabilized the shot to assure better accuracy.

First Step: Forging, Hammering, and Welding the Barrel Around a Rod or Mandrel

The gunsmith master and his journeyman heated a long piece of wrought iron in a forge. Wrought iron was produced by smelting pig iron and oxidizing it; subjecting it to heat and stirring it in a furnace without using charcoal – called puddling. Wrought iron has little or no carbon, and has varying amounts of slag; a larger amount of slag produces case-hardened iron. Slag are silica inclusions running through the iron somewhat like the grain in wood. The wrought iron was hammered into a long and flat rectangle called a skelp (also blank or plate) whose thickness was a little greater than the wall thickness of the finished barrel. They would flatten any number of these longitudinal single sheets to form the barrel.

A flattened wrought iron skelp (blank or plate) ready to be hammered to form a gun barrel tube.

The flattened skelp was laid on a swage block which is anvil-like, but with multiple groves for shaping and molding. Swage blocks were of cast hardened iron or steel. Once the iron reached a workable heat, it was removed and placed on an anvil.

The skelp was hammered onto the molding swage, bending in the center and curving up the sides. The flat iron skelp was then shaped into a tube by hammering and beating while rotating it to wrap around an inserted steel rod or mandrel. The steel bar is to keep the bore from collapsing as you hammer. Several reheats were required throughout the process, during which care was taken to keep the steel mandrel at a lower temperature than the skelp; this to prevent it from being welded in place. The iron was continuously re-heated and hammered until a long barrel was produced. Rifle barrels were hammered into a rough octagonal shape. The look was popular and the sides were simpler to forge when working with a heavy tube.

According to master gunsmith Wallace Gusler of Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia, “It doesn’t have any practical use; just style.” However, when finishing the barrel in later stages of the process, gunsmiths could only draw file long surfaces flat, necessary to remove rough forging marks, giving the rifle its highly preferred finish.

Seams were Forge welded. Prior to forge welding or fusion of the edges that formed seams along a continual iron tube around the steel rod, flux was sprinkled on the seams. Flux is made of borax, iron filings, and sand. It melts over the seem to keep scale from forming. Scale is a layer of oxide on the surface that prevents the iron to bond in forge welding. The barrel was heated to the fusion point. The master only has a few seconds to hammer fast and moderate in weight to fuse the two edges together. Metal is very hot and if hammered too hard, it will be too thin.
Gunsmith-barrel-A.png
Master welder Wallace Gusler says that when forge welding, he “Judges the heat strictly by eyesight and hearing. You can hear the hissing of the metal when it is at the fusing point. At the right temperature you also get a lot of white sparks flying from the iron as you hammer.”
The article continues & is image heavy, but well worth the time reading.
 
Last edited:
Does anyone actually make .22 LR snap caps? I admit I've never looked for them but also I don't see how they could be made.
I've always used #4 drywall anchors for 22lr snap caps. I don't use them often, I make sure to rotate them after each strike, then toss them when they are used. Can pick up a 100 pack for less than $10 all day long.
 
.22 LR snap caps
On the topic what's the better choice for a snap cap? Rubber primer or a copper primer?
technically copper, rubber has too much give and can harden. copper or lead as an anvil for a firing pin is ideal.

Also you can use small dry wall anchors as 22lr snap caps.
this, which is what i use and many others use. some revolver cylinders do not play nice with this, and they may not work in magazines, but as far as dry firing is concerned, they are fine. they will chew up over time. rotate them and when one is annoying, toss it in the recycle.

separate topic: SARCO has the M1A1 "paratrooper" 10/22 stock available for $150. not a bad deal on a new look for the old Ruger and you get a wood stock with folding butt stock as well.
 
So this past week I completed the retarded training requirement to get a carry permit in my state. It's similar to Utah's class where they want you to be informed on legislationm but it included a live fire portion.Training requirements consisted of obtaining a certificate of completion of a class that highlights "Use of Force" which highlights things like constructive authority, physical force, mechanical force, non-deadly force and deadly force as defined in my state and what your legal justifications are, because under no circumstance are you allowed to defend yourself in public or defend property.

Ex: You're getting carjacked, you must drive away or let them take your car.

The only time where you're legally allowed to blow out a lung is when someone's in your dwelling (anywhere that is not a place of business) unwelcome.

Anyway, the shooting portion was a complete waste of time. You have to fire at and hit a Q target at a minimum of 40 times (total course of 50 rounds, minimum score 80% is 40 rounds) at distances of 3 yards, 7 yards, 10 yards, and 15 yards. At each distance you draw from a holster, fire a string of 5 rounds, reholster, draw again for a second string of 5 at that distance.

When all of the above is completed, you get a stack of paperwork signed with your scores and certificates that you send to the state police when you apply for a permit. Complete waste of $300 and a whole Sunday.
What sort of a unAmerican commiecrat state do you live in?

And does Utah not have permitless conceal carry since a few years ago?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Falcos_Commisar
Back