Mega Rad Gun Thread

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When I try to move my dot up to match the 1/3rd picture I hit the limit of the holosun EPS carry... my irons aren't that tall I feel like something is wrong.
I'd say it's entirely possible that the combined sight picture is somewhere between lower third and absolute co-witness, unless the iron sights and RDS both follow some shared dimensional standards. Out of curiosity, what distance is the RDS zeroed at?
 
I'd say it's entirely possible that the combined sight picture is somewhere between lower third and absolute co-witness, unless the iron sights and RDS both follow some shared dimensional standards. Out of curiosity, what distance is the RDS zeroed at?
Honestly I have no idea, when I bought it the gun shop said they zeroed it, but I've fucked with it since then. Is it bad to try and line the dot up with the irons?
 
Honestly I have no idea, when I bought it the gun shop said they zeroed it, but I've fucked with it since then. Is it bad to try and line the dot up with the irons?
Bruh

If the RDS is zeroed at some distance other than 25 yards which is the typical standard for iron sights, of course it's going to look weird. Go to a range, find the range where the iron sights aim true (likely said 25 yards), then try the RDS and see if aims true at that range. If not, adjust RDS until it does. Now you have the proper combined sight picture, and can compare whether it looks more like lower third or absolute co-witness.

However, it's still entirely possible that the combined sight picture will be somewhere between the two examples. I have no idea whether co-witness iron sights have some standardized dimensions that are meant to result in one of the two sight pictures.
 
So I got a nice check I didn't expect. I want a new Gucci ass gun to live next to my bed. I want quiet, small and it's gonna have a dbal and a light and a red dot so I can play with it under nods, also no buffer tubes allowed. I'm basically between 9mm and 300blk and I'm thinking an APC9 or a rattler. Opinions? Other options that meet my criteria?
 
So I got a nice check I didn't expect. I want a new Gucci ass gun to live next to my bed. I want quiet, small and it's gonna have a dbal and a light and a red dot so I can play with it under nods, also no buffer tubes allowed. I'm basically between 9mm and 300blk and I'm thinking an APC9 or a rattler. Opinions? Other options that meet my criteria?
For other "gucci" .300 blackout bufferless designs you can look at the Dissent line from CMMG and BRN 180s from brownells. They're more midrange if you have $3k+ burning a hole in your pocket, but w/e. There's a small handful of bulpup designs too, but the ergos and railestate is piss poor on them. Not to mention some of them don't like being suppressed. My only strong opinion is Sig is garbage and their QC issues extend to their "gucci" guns too; don't buy the jeetgun. Of the two you've listed I'd stick in B&T's camp.
 
So I got a nice check I didn't expect. I want a new Gucci ass gun to live next to my bed. I want quiet, small and it's gonna have a dbal and a light and a red dot so I can play with it under nods, also no buffer tubes allowed. I'm basically between 9mm and 300blk and I'm thinking an APC9 or a rattler. Opinions? Other options that meet my criteria?
Depends. How big is this check?
 
6k fully kitted. I was gonna get an iris and use my dbal so that's covered but I still gotta factor the can, optic, white light and any other accessories in so say 2.5 to 3k for the base gun.
Akimbo a pair of these, faggot:

SP5K-RIGHT-1-3789984024.jpg


lol jk. I meant a pair of these:

IMG_1102_DPP-3210198778.JPG

ETA: I swear I'm not kidding btw:
PS90 x2: $3000
SBR stamps x2: $400
CMMG barrels and thread adapters x2: $740
Suppressor stamps: $400
=$4540

Which leaves you almost $1500 for cans.

Okay, I'll be honest, I don't know shit about suppressors, but get any shitass one that works for 556 and it should work perfect for 5.7.

Get to work fam.

ETAA: Just to add, if you wanna stargatemaxx and don't have any compunctions of giving britbongs money, add/take about $1000 of your budget for a couple of Ringsights.
 
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Picking up some fresh batteries for my Vortex is kind of making me want a different optic for my VP9 already, and I haven't even shot it on the gun yet.

I mean 1632's aren't that expensive, but I've had the dot for about a year, so I didn't expect a dead battery, seeing as how I don't use it all that much.

The HK specific Holosun is calling me...
 
The same guys saying they can't use their sights in a defensive situation also never practice shooting from retention drills
The vast majority of people don't practice nearly enough. One doesn't need to make it their sole focus, but participation in a shooting match can help show one where they're really at. This is a major reason I like those so much, even when I get humbled by teenage girls.
When I try to move my dot up to match the 1/3rd picture I hit the limit of the holosun EPS carry... my irons aren't that tall I feel like something is wrong.
As I understand it, co-witness in pistol RDS is the same as in long gun RDS: the dot should be centered in the sight's glass and its relation to the sights is based upon the height of the mount. You shouldn't have to move the dot up or down using the adjustment to achieve this. Whose adapter plate are you using?
 
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I've never shot one, unfortunately, but from what I understand it's fairly manageable. It's a big, heavy hunk of stainless steel weighing more than a revolver, it's semi-auto which soaks up some of the recoil, and it has an adjustable gas operating system, so you can tune the gas settings for the load you're firing. And personality, I've always found revolver grips, especially single action grips, to be LESS effective at managing heavy recoil.
you got to let your are act as a lever. takes all the shock right out of it. I can shoot my spicy .45 colt +P loads all day long like this.
that's a hog's leg grip. these are intended to allow the grip to slip with rotation in the hand on big revolvers, but also requires more effort on the part of the shooter at the wrist and knowledge to allow the revolver to rotate with the wrist upwards with the recoil from the shot rather than fight against it which is the typical instinct. combined with a heavy steel frame and barrel, and you can really tame recoil up into heavy .45 colt or .357 magnum it's okay, but any more than that and you will want a "thunderer" grip with a hump at the rear to control rotation. ultimately if you aren't a revolver shooter i would suggest avoiding them in anything but moderate loads in a heavy steel gun.

a target grip fills the palm and spreads the recoil into a larger area and absorbs recoil much better imho, but in heavy calibers like .44 magnum you will want a glove.
its proper name is the Plow-Handle grip, because its similar to plow handles circa 1850. Its a great combat grip fame. fast to re-cock and very intuitive. almost any single action with this grip will point very well in my experience.

I've abhorred the thunderer grip on larger calibers than .38. it does not help with recoil at all in my experience and since its designed for a double action revolver (colt 1877) it slows down re-cocking.

For the Magnum's most revolver smiths will recommend the Bisley grip or Elmer Kieth's No.5 variation there of. I have not tried one of these revolvers yet but since its a almost universal recommendation from the SME's (Taffin, Tyler, LineBaugh, Bowen, Kieth) there has to be something too it. It's also apparently better for accuracy. the overall shape was designed by Colt to achieve better results in the UK's huge international shooting matches in the late 19th century at the Bisley pistol and rifle range.
R.jpg

Old_Model_Ruger_Bisley.jpg
 
For the Magnum's most revolver smiths will recommend the Bisley grip or Elmer Kieth's No.5 variation there of.
I run a Ruger Vaquero in .44 magnum and it's got the hogleg type of grip on it. I wonder how much difference the Bisley type would make. I've seen that on a few .454 Casull models but no clue if it actually makes any difference.

It definitely requires a technique adjustment going from double action large frame revolvers to single action large frame revolvers. I'd like to get good with mine but I find it a lot less fun to fire because the grip seems to have so little room for one's hand given that the hammer needs its room to function.

I bet some men back in the day were incredibly deadly with these weapons, even given how slow they are to deploy compared to modern autos.
 
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