Mega Rad Gun Thread

IMO if it were me, I'd go something other than the AR-9 route unless you can find a Colt one (good luck). The AR everything craze is kind of boring. Not saying they can't be good PCCs/sub guns but were it me, I'd do something a bit different. If I didn't have my MP5 I might have gone with a Vityaz or UMP.
 
What do you guys think of PCCs? I really want to pick up a relatively cheap one for the local USPSA matches, but the prices.

It's either $300 for a Keltech S2000 or $2K for a custom AR-9 or the CZ Scorpion Evo. There doesn't seem to be much in the middle.

The HiPoint 995 looks alright, except I'm leery of the magazine location.
the Ruger PC Carbine is available sub $1k typically. Beretta Cx4 Storm (harder to find). the Hi Point 995 is fairly decent, and the Sub 2000 is plastic feeling and purposely built to a cost, they both work fairly reliably and have effort in the design. some of the other stuff out there, like the Chiappa M1-9 Carbine can be hit or miss (mostly miss). so try and figure your budget and what you want out of a PCC and search on cost and features. a conversion kit or something might be the way to go. you can sometimes find deals on "AR-9" or Colt SMG style carbines if you look around, and Glock AR-15 compatible kits have been popular for the last couple years.

there's an advantage with a Colt SMG style carbine, because if you have an existing AR-15 rifle, you can buy a magazine well adapter (Colt PN 63558 ) with a Colt SMG complete upper (Specialized Armaments or directly from a Colt distributor) or a compatible upper (Rock River PN 9MM0550B for example, among others, search for "Colt SMG" compatiblity), assemble and have a 9mm carbine ready to go without much effort or money (maybe $600 total if you shop around).

key things are that there is some "beating" going on as the 9mm is typically recoil/blowback operated, so you will want a heavy 9mm buffer and reinforced bolt catch and maybe some spare pins here or there. with this setup, you can use most AR-15 compatible accessories or parts, and you can also buy cheap UZI magazines and cut a magazine catch slot in the correct location for lots of magazines to play with if you don't feel like buying official ones.
 
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I'm looking into shotguns for home defense clay pigeon shooting, and I'm highly enticed by a Kushnapup or similar bullpup.
Are we going to look totally out of place at the range with such guns? In EU, mind.
What are the downsides to bullpups? Because I can't think of any except them usually being right-hand-use only, but I don't know shit, so...
Bullpups will make your dick hard. They also are very compact, and are a few inches shorter than their counterparts. The triggers are not great because there is a long metal wire/lever that runs from the front to the back. But in most citations it should not be a problem. I think Kel-Tec makes a decent Cali legal bullpup rifle.


What makes me not want to buy a VMAC kit is the cost of 9 mm.
 
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I'd be interested to see the cases where they squashed it, because my understanding is that they seem to avoid having an actual ruling be made on the subject.

I'm not saying anyone should ever do something illegal with an AR and expect to get off on some "hurr durr it's not a gun!" argument in court, but I don't think it's really been squashed "hard."
God damn CNN is a retard. Did they even research anything before they posted that article? The lower receiver is the part that has the serial # and is legally considered a firearm according to feds. Not the upper receiver or the "frame". And what was the guy doing that got him in trouble with the feds? Running a cnc machine shop and let people rent the machines to finish 80% uppers?
 
What do you guys think of PCCs? I really want to pick up a relatively cheap one for the local USPSA matches, but the prices.

It's either $300 for a Keltech S2000 or $2K for a custom AR-9 or the CZ Scorpion Evo. There doesn't seem to be much in the middle.

The HiPoint 995 looks alright, except I'm leery of the magazine location.
The HiPoint 995 is Unironically one of my favorite PCCs on the market. It feels really good to shoot unlike their handgun options and, in typical HiPoint fashion, will run until you try to shoot a .50 down the barrel. Other than that, the Beretta cx4 is pretty nice, but kinda overpriced, and a lot of other 'PCC' options are just semi-auto sub guns that aren't really meant to fulfill the role of a PCC. The S2K is more meant as a backpack gun rather than a real PCC.

Personally I recommend the HiPoint to anyone trying to get into PCCs. If you don't like it, you probably won't like the more expensive options. Best to start on the cheaper end when trying something new, and the 995 is both cheap and enjoyable. Won't be the best options for matches, but it's a good place to start and a fantastic plinker.
 
I read or heard somewhere that given prompt medical attention someone shot by a handgun has a 1/5 chance of dying. Someone shot by a rifle has a 1/5 chance of surviving. Even with the hyperbole this really surprised me because my understanding has always been that at effective range typical handgun cartridges like 9 and 45 do comparable harm to an intermediate rifle cartridge like 5,56 or 5,45. So why the discrepancy? Are most people getting shot with saturday night specials? Do most people shoot big boy bullets like .30-06? Is everyone else just bringing their vest to gun fight?
 
my understanding has always been that at effective range typical handgun cartridges like 9 and 45 do comparable harm to an intermediate rifle cartridge like 5,56 or 5,45.
rifle cartridges almost always have far more energy to "dump" into a target, creating incredibly damaging wounds in tissue either through fragmentation or though excessive yawing. the resulting tissue damage internally is generally consistently worse than typical handgun cartridge at all ranges other than near point blank, where excessive energy with very stable or very efficient bullets tends to just poke holes in a target that are painful, but unlikely to be lethal.

handgun cartridges trade off velocity (typically) for higher mass and fundamentally rely on similar principles to cause tissue damage: fragmentation or yaw. for those bullets that are designed to expand - they are typically very velocity dependent and utilize the increase diameter and unstable path through tissue to create more lethal wounds.

this is all ignoring central nervous system hits, or hits that would quickly exsanguinate a target (heart, major blood vessels, major organs), or debilitating hits to bone or something that might not be lethal but still incapacitating.

if you are comparing both cartridges at their most effective ranges (say, within 50 meters for a 9mm and within 300 meters for 5.56x45mm) then the rifle bullet would generally still be more lethal purely by virtue of having more energy to "play with" when it strikes a target, provided both bullets are composed of similar conventional materials and design.
 
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Ruger has a different stock and barrel for the version it sells in California.
Ruger's CA compliant AR-556 rifle (model 8523) is identical to their MOE rifle (model 8513) with the exception of a limited magazine and "action disassembly required" fixed magazine. it isn't somehow special just for CA.
 
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Can anyone who owns one recommend for or against the M1A, specifically the Scout Squad? I've been wanting to finally get a long gun and I can't bring myself to get a CA compliant featureless AR and I also kind of want something in full power .308. I've seen a lot of people shit on the M14 platform and I probably wouldn't get one at pandemic pricing anyway but are they really that bad?
 
Can anyone who owns one recommend for or against the M1A, specifically the Scout Squad? I've been wanting to finally get a long gun and I can't bring myself to get a CA compliant featureless AR and I also kind of want something in full power .308. I've seen a lot of people shit on the M14 platform and I probably wouldn't get one at pandemic pricing anyway but are they really that bad?
They're an older kind of workhorse that aren't as easy to modify, clean, or operate when compared to your basic AR-10. Out of the box, they're also not as accurate barring something like a National Match.

But if you want an M1A, getting anything else that fires 7.62x51/.308 simply won't scratch that itch. Old as the design is, it's still more accurate than most shooters that pick it up, and it's been equally reliable in my experience when compared to mid-tier AR-10s and the like.

People shit on it because of the same reason people shit on Nickelback; because it's the popular thing to do when brought up in conversation. Most people who shit on it have never even picked one up, much less run one in a kit.

I won't lie, most of owning an M14/M1A is second cool unless you trained with and were deployed with one. It's not the best option in any circumstance. But if the history, design, or heritage speak to you more than an AR-10, I couldn't recommend one enough. As long as you practice with it, it can still hang out at your range's 300 and 600 yard lines. Especially against the kids who go out and buy a SCAR as their first gun and think they're gonna be hot shit at the range. The one real downside is you'll constantly be harassed by both pro and anti-M14 fudds and kids.
 
Can anyone who owns one recommend for or against the M1A, specifically the Scout Squad? I've been wanting to finally get a long gun and I can't bring myself to get a CA compliant featureless AR and I also kind of want something in full power .308. I've seen a lot of people shit on the M14 platform and I probably wouldn't get one at pandemic pricing anyway but are they really that bad?

Avoid.

 
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M14 was a dumb choice to adopt as a service rifle but for personal use it's fun and not going to be much worse in terms of performance than any other mainstream battle rifle. If you're just after practical choices then you're going to get an AR10 and like it.
If you want something that's fun to shoot and "accurate enough" out of the box then any m14 clone is fine. People almost exclusively get battle rifles for fun and I'll never understand people trying so hard to shit on any of them.

You linked an article covering its service history but that's not really relevant here.

@Iceland Heavy
If you want it, get it. I've never shot a Scout Squad but everything I've read says it's pretty much just a shorter M1A with comparable performance. If you find m14 haters, they'll sperg about it having an unreliable action and being inaccurate or something but no one I've ever known or seen who actually owns one has agreed yet they all agree it's a relative pain in the ass to clean thoroughly and is certainly a rifle of a bygone era in terms of design. I think the "tack driver" fuddlore comes from the irons being so nice compared to what you normally expect, actual performance is on par with a PTR91 or FAL clone as far as I can tell, but the ceiling is higher if you enjoy projects and hate money.

Pros
muh aesthetics, wide support, springfield warranty is good, fun to shoot, easy to maintain, awesome irons

Cons
Cold barrel can throw flyers (usually just first shot), accuracy autism gets expensive, mounting sights sucks, kinda pricey, front heavy, expensive steel mags
 
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People get service rifles like that because of their history, not "just for fun". People get mosins just to fuck around with, everyone I ever saw get an M14 clone always thought they were going to be some kind of Carlos Hathcock clone with it when the truth of the matter is it's just a shitty, temperamental rifle that requires a lot of expense to anywhere close to "accurate". I've never seen anyone pick one of these up just to do stupid mag dumps with and not care.


Edit: at the end of the day, it's his money and he asked for opinions. I personally wouldn't get one based on it's reputation from people I trust and have learned from but if the dude has his heart set on it, why not? Go crazy, it likely won't blow up on him.
 
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I’ve been happy with my M1A. It’s the “loaded” version, with a national match barrel. Shoots about 2MOA with match ammo - not all that hot nowadays but used to be considered pretty good back in the day. I’ve toyed with the idea of bedding it but it’s not a high priority right now. When I got it the only other 7.62 options were FAL types and a few AR10s. Magazine/parts availability and the fact I was already familiar with M1A through shooting a buddy’s led to my choice.

As far as the pros and cons: my rifle has been nothing but reliable. I’ve had one slam-fire and a few failures to feed - but that was with my reloads that were inadequately full-length sized. The barrel does heat up fast so I’m usually shooting pretty slowly - at least from the bench. I’ve got a scope mounted on mine and the scope sits pretty high making it a little harder to get a good cheek weld. Lastly, the rifle is Heavy which is actually pretty nice for shooting from the bench or off-hand, not as nice for carrying to and from the range.
 
So my favorite pistol is my CZ-75B, and even though I only bought it like 2 years ago, it has since gotten dinged and scratched from my crowded pistol safe. Now I keep it in its case in a locked trunk.

Is there a home way to restore it and make it pretty again? I did find a firearm paint pen to cover some of the paint scuffs, but it still looks more damaged than it should for its age. Cerakoting is expensive and time-consuming, and I'd rather have it in my possession in these tense times.
 
So my favorite pistol is my CZ-75B, and even though I only bought it like 2 years ago, it has since gotten dinged and scratched from my crowded pistol safe. Now I keep it in its case in a locked trunk.

Is there a home way to restore it and make it pretty again? I did find a firearm paint pen to cover some of the paint scuffs, but it still looks more damaged than it should for its age. Cerakoting is expensive and time-consuming, and I'd rather have it in my possession in these tense times.
If you know of any reliable local smiths, they'll probably have the tools to clean it up without CKing it up. Truthfully, though, I'd just clean it the best I could with some CLP and some gunmetal polish and run with it. Some dings and scratches won't hurt anything reliability wise, and worn-in, well cared for guns are always cool.

Also, I don't know if it's just me, but every CZ I've ever owned gets scratched up pretty easily, so I don't think it would look wrong or out of place in a lineup of similarly aged and used guns.
 
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Can anyone who owns one recommend for or against the M1A, specifically the Scout Squad?
it's a commercialized adaptation of an "okay" service rifle that a lot of people have nostalgia for. it has good potential for competitive accuracy with some investment and work, however out of the box it's fairly average. Springfield uses an 8620 steel alloy cast receiver which is fine for virtually all normal uses but can crack at the heel if dropped unassembled (vs forged receivers that tend to deform instead). it's going to be more accurate than you are, though, as are most rifles. be aware that specialty parts are widely available in the US and are sometimes more expensive than what you might expect. the 10 round magazine is a bit annoying because of how short it is, you can really only use fingertips to remove it. you can use some spare shoe lace to loop through a punched hole at the base of the magazine (drain hole) and one you make yourself at the rear of the magazine (no larger than 1/8") so you have something to help extract with, as the magazines are not typically drop free.

Is there a home way to restore it and make it pretty again? I did find a firearm paint pen to cover some of the paint scuffs, but it still looks more damaged than it should for its age. Cerakoting is expensive and time-consuming, and I'd rather have it in my possession in these tense times.
yes, although it would depend on your specific CZ-75B: if it's old enough to not have the stainless steel slide/frame that was powder/epoxy coated and painted (TuffCoat), then you can just parkerize the parts and card off anything that gets too much build up.

alternately, if it was made after around 1980 (stainless slide) or 1991 (stainless or aluminum frame) then you can do a duracoat shake and bake with an aerosol application:
detail strip the gun into individual parts (removing all pins and springs, et c), prepare the frame and slide metal by degreasing and then to remove surface roughness, use. scotchbrite or fine sandpaper and be mindful to use a backer appropriate to the the contour of the work surface (round for round, flat for flat, do not round over corners). with some polish (mother's mag or brasso) take out any scratches leftover and make the surface uniform. this is all light tough stuff, you aren't trying to remove metal, just polish the surface.

use gloves when handling to avoid putting grease or oil on the parts. if you feel paranoid, use simple green or something to degrease again. once the surface is in good order and clean and dry, bake the parts at 150 degrees in your oven for an hour to outgas and seep out any oil you missed.

in a safe, ventilated area make some test sprays for the color you like on a piece of scrap metal and get the hang of using the aerosol. it works like krylon: smooth, even, continuous strokes that start and end off the piece, applied thinly several times. using some wire, suspend the frame and any other major parts in your painting area and shake the duracoat can for at least two minutes, and use the included tool to puncture the hardener reservoir and shake it up for another two minutes.

you now have less than four hours to apply the contents of the can to your parts. smooth, even, continuous strokes applied in thin layers with the nozzle about a foot away from the surface, allowing a minute or two between strokes to set and examine your work piece for any gaps in the coating. once satisfied that you got everything evenly, take the parts and bake them in an oven at 150 to evaporate the solvent carrier from the coating. any paint runs or drips are because they were applied too closely or thickly in that spot - you want thin coats.

for small parts, you will only want to do maybe one or two coats - duracoat adds material, so be careful applying to pins. if you want a polished/smooth look, you can use wet sanding between coats to smooth it out after baking and before the next coat.

repeat these steps 3 times. allow to air dry in a cool, dry, area. duracoat is dry and safe to handle after about an hour (to move parts around, not to assemble or use just yet), and is cured within 12 hours in most climates - i like to play it safe and allow 24 hours to fully cure.

duracoat is not meant to be a permanent finish when applied in this way - it's a good finish for a gun you intend to use that needs some paint on it for protection and looks that will last a couple hunting seasons of rough handling. cerakote is more durable in some circumstances, but just like duracoat, the home application is not as durable as what you can get if it's done by a professional.

examples:
after a year of daily carry:
1.jpg
after a year of field use rattling around in a vehicle, note that duracoat needs some surface treatments to be removed prior to application. your CZ should not have this issue:
2.jpg
 
They're an older kind of workhorse that aren't as easy to modify, clean, or operate when compared to your basic AR-10. Out of the box, they're also not as accurate barring something like a National Match.

But if you want an M1A, getting anything else that fires 7.62x51/.308 simply won't scratch that itch. Old as the design is, it's still more accurate than most shooters that pick it up, and it's been equally reliable in my experience when compared to mid-tier AR-10s and the like.

People shit on it because of the same reason people shit on Nickelback; because it's the popular thing to do when brought up in conversation. Most people who shit on it have never even picked one up, much less run one in a kit.

I won't lie, most of owning an M14/M1A is second cool unless you trained with and were deployed with one. It's not the best option in any circumstance. But if the history, design, or heritage speak to you more than an AR-10, I couldn't recommend one enough. As long as you practice with it, it can still hang out at your range's 300 and 600 yard lines. Especially against the kids who go out and buy a SCAR as their first gun and think they're gonna be hot shit at the range. The one real downside is you'll constantly be harassed by both pro and anti-M14 fudds and kids.
I’ve been happy with my M1A. It’s the “loaded” version, with a national match barrel. Shoots about 2MOA with match ammo - not all that hot nowadays but used to be considered pretty good back in the day. I’ve toyed with the idea of bedding it but it’s not a high priority right now. When I got it the only other 7.62 options were FAL types and a few AR10s. Magazine/parts availability and the fact I was already familiar with M1A through shooting a buddy’s led to my choice.

As far as the pros and cons: my rifle has been nothing but reliable. I’ve had one slam-fire and a few failures to feed - but that was with my reloads that were inadequately full-length sized. The barrel does heat up fast so I’m usually shooting pretty slowly - at least from the bench. I’ve got a scope mounted on mine and the scope sits pretty high making it a little harder to get a good cheek weld. Lastly, the rifle is Heavy which is actually pretty nice for shooting from the bench or off-hand, not as nice for carrying to and from the range.
M14 was a dumb choice to adopt as a service rifle but for personal use it's fun and not going to be much worse in terms of performance than any other mainstream battle rifle. If you're just after practical choices then you're going to get an AR10 and like it.
If you want something that's fun to shoot and "accurate enough" out of the box then any m14 clone is fine. People almost exclusively get battle rifles for fun and I'll never understand people trying so hard to shit on any of them.

You linked an article covering its service history but that's not really relevant here.

@Iceland Heavy
If you want it, get it. I've never shot a Scout Squad but everything I've read says it's pretty much just a shorter M1A with comparable performance. If you find m14 haters, they'll sperg about it having an unreliable action and being inaccurate or something but no one I've ever known or seen who actually owns one has agreed yet they all agree it's a relative pain in the ass to clean thoroughly and is certainly a rifle of a bygone era in terms of design. I think the "tack driver" fuddlore comes from the irons being so nice compared to what you normally expect, actual performance is on par with a PTR91 or FAL clone as far as I can tell, but the ceiling is higher if you enjoy projects and hate money.

Pros
muh aesthetics, wide support, springfield warranty is good, fun to shoot, easy to maintain, awesome irons

Cons
Cold barrel can throw flyers (usually just first shot), accuracy autism gets expensive, mounting sights sucks, kinda pricey, front heavy, expensive steel mags
People get service rifles like that because of their history, not "just for fun". People get mosins just to fuck around with, everyone I ever saw get an M14 clone always thought they were going to be some kind of Carlos Hathcock clone with it when the truth of the matter is it's just a shitty, temperamental rifle that requires a lot of expense to anywhere close to "accurate". I've never seen anyone pick one of these up just to do stupid mag dumps with and not care.


Edit: at the end of the day, it's his money and he asked for opinions. I personally wouldn't get one based on it's reputation from people I trust and have learned from but if the dude has his heart set on it, why not? Go crazy, it likely won't blow up on him.
I like battle rifles and I like the idea of the M14 being a more modernized Garand even if in practice it was a kludge that didn't last in frontline service long. It mostly comes down to aesthetics at the end of the day for me, I don't have to throw on a ridiculous fin grip on an M1A as opposed to a FAL or a G3. I'm not considering getting one because I'm willing to spend boomer levels of money on it to make it a tack driver but since it's probably going to be my only long gun for a while I'd like it to be at least somewhat practical hence the accessory rail and shorter barrel on the scout squad.
 
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If you're limited to one long gun and you don't want it fucked by CA's stupid laws, get a Tikka T3x in .308. At least then you're not stuck unshittifying a M14.
 
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