3-D Print General - Feeding Printers Filament

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Does anyone have CAD software suggestions for free or cheap? It's not for 3D printing but I figured this thread would be the place to ask. I have been learning to use FreeCAD but am finding it really obtuse and rotating things is unbelievably painful process.
Autodesk has a scheme for most of its software these days where you don't have to pay for personal/non-commercial use. They (might? it's been a while) want a bunch of personal info for sign-up, but I'm pretty sure you can just feed them bullshit. Despite some restrictions in the free version I have found Fusion360 fairly user friendly, and it has been sufficient for my CAD needs at least.
 
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Does anyone have CAD software suggestions for free or cheap? It's not for 3D printing but I figured this thread would be the place to ask. I have been learning to use FreeCAD but am finding it really obtuse and rotating things is unbelievably painful process.
Another vote for Autodesk Fusion. Free for personal use and have a wealth of tutorials on YouTube, which is probably as valuable as the software itself since you’re learning.
 
Does anyone have CAD software suggestions for free or cheap? It's not for 3D printing but I figured this thread would be the place to ask. I have been learning to use FreeCAD but am finding it really obtuse and rotating things is unbelievably painful process.
OpenSCAD

It is incredibly jank and you make shapes by typing code like the old POV-Ray days.
 
Does anyone have CAD software suggestions for free or cheap? It's not for 3D printing but I figured this thread would be the place to ask. I have been learning to use FreeCAD but am finding it really obtuse and rotating things is unbelievably painful process.
Another vote for fusion 360. It’s free for hobbyists.
 
I just got into 3d printing not to long ago. What does everyone do with their used spools? I only have so many extension cords to wrap around them.
 
I just got into 3d printing not to long ago. What does everyone do with their used spools? I only have so many extension cords to wrap around them.
depending where you are there might be a recycling program, or iirc some have a scheme where you can send them back. if you're in a big enough city it might even be local, or if you have a university around ask how they handle it (depending on the courses).
 
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I was talking to a friend of mine about printing figures with FDM printers and he suggested that I should consider printing with a 0.2mm nozzle.

I did some research and apparently it is possible but the K1C doesn’t have native support. Damn it.
 
The amount of blockages you will get and stringing making them look bad anyway it's probably just easier/faster/better in the long run to pick up a cheap resin printer setup.
That’s what I was planning on doing anyways, I’m probably going get a nice cash influx in the next coming months so I’m not too worried about it.

That and the figure prints I did do with basic-bitch 0.4 nozzle weren’t too bad either, they just had some funky bottom layering due to the nature of supports.
 
FDM is at the good enough stage for minis now - even warhammer stuff. Sure it's not *as* good as resin, but for most people they're good enough. The people doing them though tend to use A1/minis though because of the quick change nozzles and Fat Dragon Games have a profile that prints pretty well.
 
FDM is at the good enough stage for minis now - even warhammer stuff. Sure it's not *as* good as resin, but for most people they're good enough. The people doing them though tend to use A1/minis though because of the quick change nozzles and Fat Dragon Games have a profile that prints pretty well.
Hard disagree and I think it's people just coping or don't paint well. If you don't care for painting I suppose they're okay. If the standard is just "I guess it looks like what it's supposed to be" for identification, sure.

The time it takes to print at those settings is also insane.
 
Hard disagree and I think it's people just coping or don't paint well. If you don't care for painting I suppose they're okay. If the standard is just "I guess it looks like what it's supposed to be" for identification, sure.

The time it takes to print at those settings is also insane.
There's multiple communities where people post pics / youtubers who print minis in FDM if you want to look at the results, and while the quality isn't perfect it is more than good enough and is way better than the old pewter minis we used to deal with.

Look at these Tyranid or Custodes armies and if you honestly think that they're not good enough to be playable, then you're legitimately insane.

Sure resin will be better if you want to churn out whole armies to play in one hit or you need maximum quality that nobody will notice unless they're right up in your face, but unless you're looking to print farm/sell stuff, FDM is fast/good enough to keep you busy (depending on the model & your print settings, 3-8 hours per 32mm model).
 
Smaller nozzle will help with fine details. Specialty filaments are more likely to clog or jam, so no glittery shit or wooden.Try to avoid supports if you can, or use soluble material for them. Print time will be longer / slower. Dial in the filament temperature, overhang settings (fan %) and retraction to get it looking cleaner.
 
Look at these Tyranid or Custodes armies and if you honestly think that they're not good enough to be playable, then you're legitimately insane.
Yeah, they're playable :D Never said FDM couldn't do that. But if you're actually into the modeling/ painting side of the hobby it just will never be there. Though idk, maybe layer lines on tyranids can be used for some cool painting effects.

The lines are visible in the pic and would stand out even more with paint and not just a dull grey color.
 
There's multiple communities where people post pics / youtubers who print minis in FDM if you want to look at the results, and while the quality isn't perfect it is more than good enough and is way better than the old pewter minis we used to deal with.

Look at these Tyranid or Custodes armies and if you honestly think that they're not good enough to be playable, then you're legitimately insane.

Sure resin will be better if you want to churn out whole armies to play in one hit or you need maximum quality that nobody will notice unless they're right up in your face, but unless you're looking to print farm/sell stuff, FDM is fast/good enough to keep you busy (depending on the model & your print settings, 3-8 hours per 32mm model).
Once you factor in energy cost of the much longer print time, resin vs filament(including all the waste and buying high enough quality filament to be able to print that fine reliably) in this application a cheap resin printer pays for itself relatively quickly.
 
Once you factor in all the extra equipment/measures required for safely printing resin and dealing with the waste, it's a moot point. Each has their upsides/downsides, but I was specifically addressing the claims that FDM wasn't good enough for minis.

It hasn't been the case for a few years now, and its fast enough that you can print throughout the week and have enough minis to paint to keep you busy over the weekend.
 
Look at these Tyranid or Custodes armies and if you honestly think that they're not good enough to be playable, then you're legitimately insane.
The only point I'll contest is that those look like they've been primed. FDM can for sure nail some really high quality but I think paint prep is what'll make or break things either way. Trust me, I've made some resin prints look like absolute dog shit because I don't know how to paint. I'm surprised the FDM mini community hasn't been leaning into vapor smoothing for PVB/ABS/ASA.
 
Depends what you're doing with the minis. If you want some actually good painting pieces then no, they're not good enough.

As for smoothing abs prints...hard to say. Kind of risk eroding away hard detail which on warhammer-like minis is a bit of a deal.

Working with both resin and FDM is the best way to take advantage of the strengths of both processes. Trying to cope and get one to do what the other is better at is just...nah.
 
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