HVAC/R and Air Conditioning - Why survive SHTF if it gets hot

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Holy fuck I hate multi-zone units. Had to install the ductwork for it with 14 fucking trunklines coming off of it and god knows how many taps. The wonderful designers made it so there was literally zero clearance between the initial 90s and even with flex connectors being moved. And I thought chevy engineers were dickheads.
 
And I thought chevy engineers were dickheads.
Have you ever seen under the hood of modern German automobiles? Chevy enginerds have nothing on BMW and their 500 weird proprietary wrenches that are like $300 a piece.
 
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You would be surprised how little the average person will diy. I’ve had many customers pay an after hours service fee to clear the drain line even though I tell them it’s $20-$40 to buy a wet vac instead of $300-400 for a service call. I even offer to walk them through the process for free.

I would definitely recommend a disconnect, they are not very expensive.
The reason I think it’s overkill for a mini-split to have a disconnect is because they will generally not be field serviced. They will either be replaced or sent to the factory for repair. So relying solely on the breaker is fine, IMO.
 
US becoming a soviet union any moment now. Has to refine base ores to make cheap metals instead of relying on others to do it cheaper for you.
 
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What you guys think about air filters for commercial air handlers? I just exhausted my years-old stock of cheap fiberglass filters (Pamlico Air Select-F, datasheet attached), and I need to choose what type to restock for my next filter change (something like 40 air handlers, 3 filters each of 12"x 24"x 1")

I heard something about how the cheap fiberglass filters don't actually catch much dust. You could definitely pour a handful of salt over a filter like that and end up with much of the salt falling through to the floor. And I think that my blower cowling/housing and evap coils do get pretty dirty in spite of regular filter changes and subsequently needing more frequent NuCalgon spraydown, which adds up in cost since I don't get bulk pricing on NuCalgon spray cans.

Pleated filters aren't that much more expensive now, and I have been using them on some commercial boiler air intakes for a while now without any complaints. But I heard something about how too thick of pleated filters might overtax some motors and blowers.

I have to do all the rebuild and replacement work for the moving parts of my air handlers (blowers, bearings, shafts, lovejoy couplings, motors, etc), so I don't want to cause any unnecessary damage, but it seems to me that a better quality pleated filter wouldn't necessarily mess up any of the moving parts. The difference in air resistance surely can't be enough to wear out bearings and motors faster than their natural lifespan.
 

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What you guys think about air filters for commercial air handlers? I just exhausted my years-old stock of cheap fiberglass filters (Pamlico Air Select-F, datasheet attached), and I need to choose what type to restock for my next filter change (something like 40 air handlers, 3 filters each of 12"x 24"x 1")

I heard something about how the cheap fiberglass filters don't actually catch much dust. You could definitely pour a handful of salt over a filter like that and end up with much of the salt falling through to the floor. And I think that my blower cowling/housing and evap coils do get pretty dirty in spite of regular filter changes and subsequently needing more frequent NuCalgon spraydown, which adds up in cost since I don't get bulk pricing on NuCalgon spray cans.

Pleated filters aren't that much more expensive now, and I have been using them on some commercial boiler air intakes for a while now without any complaints. But I heard something about how too thick of pleated filters might overtax some motors and blowers.

I have to do all the rebuild and replacement work for the moving parts of my air handlers (blowers, bearings, shafts, lovejoy couplings, motors, etc), so I don't want to cause any unnecessary damage, but it seems to me that a better quality pleated filter wouldn't necessarily mess up any of the moving parts. The difference in air resistance surely can't be enough to wear out bearings and motors faster than their natural lifespan.
Are you able to convert the filter rack to take 2” filters?

Just go with basic pleated and you should be fine. Also painters tape between filters helps stuff from bypassing.
 
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Are you able to convert the filter rack to take 2” filters?

Just go with basic pleated and you should be fine. Also painters tape between filters helps stuff from bypassing.
It would be difficult to convert to 2", especially with 40+ units to do, but if there is a good benefit to 2" filters, maybe it could be worth the effort.

I don't have any experience with 2" filters.

That's a good idea with the tape! Most of my racks are in pretty good condition, but I know for sure some of them are slightly bent out of shape and might have small gaps between the filters as a result.
 
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