HVAC/R and Air Conditioning - Why survive SHTF if it gets hot

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Hmm. To my understanding, Asian-built mini-splits tend to be specced to handle lower temps before losing CoP than most American-made central air systems do and the American manufacturers broadly stopped making real advances some time in the 70s or 80s. Maybe look into getting one installed to supplement your central system?

Probably just gonna look at a "cold climate" unit to replace the current one with. Supposedly they're good for at least 1.5 down to -15°F.
Heat pumps aren’t magic. Only way to get more capacity as temp goes down is to throw more horsepower at it. Variable speed units can speed up the compressor beyond what a typical single speed unit can, but it does so at the cost of more energy usage and potentially more wear on the compressor.

Remember that a heat pump in heat mode is taking heat from outdoors and putting it indoors. Colder temps make it less efficient.
 
Only way to get more capacity as temp goes down is to throw more horsepower at it.
To my understanding, the difference has mostly come in the refrigerants newer-generation units use, plus the addition, in some, of an automatic de-icing cycle for the exterior end of the heat exchanger. That's how you get one heat pump giving you a COP (the ratio of joules of heat moved per joule of energy input) higher than another's.

... Technically, you could also have a "staged" heat pump system, where you have one heat pump moving heat into or out of another heat pump using a different refrigerant that has a different performance envelope, but that's more of a cryogenics lab thing than a "heat the house in winter and cool it in the summer" thing.
 
To my understanding, the difference has mostly come in the refrigerants newer-generation units use, plus the addition, in some, of an automatic de-icing cycle for the exterior end of the heat exchanger. That's how you get one heat pump giving you a COP (the ratio of joules of heat moved per joule of energy input) higher than another's.

... Technically, you could also have a "staged" heat pump system, where you have one heat pump moving heat into or out of another heat pump using a different refrigerant that has a different performance envelope, but that's more of a cryogenics lab thing than a "heat the house in winter and cool it in the summer" thing.
We are stuck with whatever refrigerants the industry gives us, so whatever minor differences there are in the refrigerant performance are a moot point. New gen refrigerants focus on environmental impact if released into the atmosphere.

The issue with heat pump energy consumption comes from increasing compression ratio as the outdoor temperature decreases. Same reason a compressor of a specific horsepower produces way more BTUs in an air conditioning application than as a cooler or freezer. A 20hp compressor that produces 240,000 btu with a 45° evaporator, produces only 48,000 btu with a -20° evaporator.
 
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To my understanding, the difference has mostly come in the refrigerants newer-generation units use, plus the addition, in some, of an automatic de-icing cycle for the exterior end of the heat exchanger. That's how you get one heat pump giving you a COP (the ratio of joules of heat moved per joule of energy input) higher than another's.
The main A2L replacing R-410 is R-454b. R-454B is more or less a 1:1 replacement for R-410 in terms of performance. Its designed to be a drop-in replacement so manufacturers only have to add some bits of redtape instead of redesigning the entire system.
 
Any recommended YouTube series to learn about mechanicals/HVAC? It would help in general to understand this stuff, even at a rudimentary level. I need to do the same for electrical/plumbing.
 
Besides the obvious hand tools you will also need a gauge manifold, nitrogen and regulator, vacuum pump and micron gauge if you are going to do it right. Also a good feel for how much to tighten the flare fittings,or a torque wrench any hope that the flares on the factory line set are good, because they usually are not, and we end up cutting them off and replacing them. If the lines are over a certain length you will need additional refrigerant and an accurate scale.

You will also want to understand how to wire it safely and most likely will be working in a live electrical panel to install a breaker.
You can hire an electrician to do the electrical (most areas you will need a permit either way) and it’ll still be cheaper to DIY the rest. That said I personally think it’s unnecessary for a mini-split to have a disconnect, but that’s code now.
 
You can hire an electrician to do the electrical (most areas you will need a permit either way) and it’ll still be cheaper to DIY the rest. That said I personally think it’s unnecessary for a mini-split to have a disconnect, but that’s code now.
You would be surprised how little the average person will diy. I’ve had many customers pay an after hours service fee to clear the drain line even though I tell them it’s $20-$40 to buy a wet vac instead of $300-400 for a service call. I even offer to walk them through the process for free.

I would definitely recommend a disconnect, they are not very expensive.
 
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... Technically, you could also have a "staged" heat pump system, where you have one heat pump moving heat into or out of another heat pump using a different refrigerant that has a different performance envelope, but that's more of a cryogenics lab thing than a "heat the house in winter and cool it in the summer" thing.
That is a viesmann thing and has been done. Can heat water to 70C and so on.
First gens used 2 staged compressors, second gen had 1. Then there are also CO2 HP's that have 65°C heat by design.
That said I personally think it’s unnecessary for a mini-split to have a disconnect, but that’s code now.
Makes it great and easy to service. I personally hate disconnects with passion and wired my own with standard high current plugs.
I can't trust a disconnect I can't see inside and I've seen those fuckers weld and fry themselves in closed contact even tho the lever is pulled. The option to disconnect the AC and plug something else in outside is also a major +.
The issue with heat pump energy consumption comes from increasing compression ratio as the outdoor temperature decreases.
Not just that, the capacity is dropping as well.
A pump will do with 1kW compressor power at 5°C outside with EER of 3 about 3kW of heat.
At -5°C that compressor will only draw 800W or less with EER of 2 and that makes only 1.6kW of heat.
Since you also need a higher heat temperature that kills everything even further.
That is why ground sourced pumps are great as source temp is almost the same. Until you see the price of a well and the cost of maintaining it. It's cheaper to just put panels on whole house.
COP drops through the floor and the backup resistance strips have to kick in.
Once resistance heating kicks in the power goes thru the roof and efficiency thru floor. At that point it's better to use propane heating, even if it's the kitchen stove being lit. This heat should technically be only used during defrosts but it happens that thermostats are misconfigured that it runs all the time.
Assuming there's still anything left in stock anywhere that uses 410A. "Oh we're not making it illegal, we're just going to jack the price up on it and push something else at the exact moment the patent expires!"
You can get R32 units that will take R410a. Better to just get the R290 propane air-water unit tho. It is much better gas overall and you can refill it yourself.
Holy fuck, I forgot wall/window mounted. they're basically portables with the hot end outside though. So it's a similar, albeit marginally less bad, outcome.
They can be pretty efficient and they come in interesting packages. It's like mini - minisplit
Issue with all these is noise and heat leakage.
US homes sadly aren't built with ventilation in mind.
EDIT: Nevermind they got pulled out of market due to mold issues
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Should I assume if my basement gets cold but my upstairs where the thermostat is never gets below 75 when its good and hot out that I just need new windows and insulation?
 
Communist Regimes fucking hate air conditioning for some reason.
It can't possibly be that cost prohibitive to install a ducted mini split for residential. They are highly energy efficient. R-values of homes in Europe are significantly higher than that in the US. Meaning homes in Europe are far better insulated.

Every year without fail they seem to forget that summer is a thing. Must be global warming or whatever. Fucking retards
 
Should I assume if my basement gets cold but my upstairs where the thermostat is never gets below 75 when its good and hot out that I just need new windows and insulation?
Or leaks or improper air flow
 
another's.

... Technically, you could also have a "staged" heat pump system, where you have one heat pump moving heat into or out of another heat pump using a different refrigerant that has a different performance envelope, but that's more of a cryogenics lab thing than a "heat the house in winter and cool it in the summer" thing.
I have a 15 year old Daikin air to water which is two stage like that. It’s designed as an oil boiler replacement, so is optimized for high flow temperature (it can go up to 80 C).
I am thinking of replacing it with a modern R290 a2w or perhaps a multi split a2a. Either would be more efficient, things have come a long way way in the last few years. CoP of 4 is normal now.

Honestly the need for AC is still very rare here but you get it for free with the splits and I have solar too so no guilt about using it.
 
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