Mega Rad Gun Thread

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Related newbie question - are suppressors also pressure sensitive, such that they can be damaged by hotter rounds? I just figured they wouldn't suppress as well with more gas.

Maybe that's it lol a suppressor tuned to quiet the particular gas load of M855
Yes suppressors have other limitations such as barrel length or full auto, manufacturers usually have a list of those restrictions.

For example here's otter creek labs list of barrel length restrictions.
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Why do people hype anything that the military uses? There's your answer.
This is a thing I don't get. If you're truly brand new to all this I could understand thinking mil-spec was the way to go. I was like that when I was 19. Then I learned firsthand how wrong I was.
Will the best sniper in WW2 had iron sight name Simo Häyhä. I own a AR-15 with iron sight only, and I don't see the problem that. Most of the best shooter used nothing, but iron sight they are pretty used to it.
I think I understand what you're saying and I agree that iron sights will usually always work. Compared to modern optics, especially in areas where one encounters largely varied lighting conditions, they have some significant deficits.
 
You may not like it, but this is what peak AR performance looks like.
As someone who had to constantly get in and our of vehicles and waltz around urban areas in full kit with an A4, thats gonna be a very hard no from me dawg.
Yes suppressors have other limitations such as barrel length or full auto, manufacturers usually have a list of those restrictions.

For example here's otter creek labs list of barrel length restrictions.
View attachment 6712182
While pressure is an issue, many of the caliber/length restrictions are due to the extremely abrasive environment created when going larger and shorter. The larger and shorter you go the less powder burns and more that unburnt powder is sand blasting baffles are very high temp. Its why the "blast baffle" of many suppressors is made out of inconel or similar metals.
 
This is a thing I don't get. If you're truly brand new to all this I could understand thinking mil-spec was the way to go. I was like that when I was 19. Then I learned firsthand how wrong I was.
In general, I've been told mil-spec is aiming for "cheapest but hopefully reliable" for most stuff. That's probably ok for some equipment, but I imagine a lot of the mil-spec fascination is stuff like "wow navy seals use the P226 I have to get one too".

Technically wouldn't the cooking utensils in the mess kitchen be "mil-spec" too?
 
It’s a RC2, the unit testing was done using m885.
I don't see how grain weight can make that much of a difference in terms of damage and whatnot. In fact, a 77 would be better as you've got less unburnt powder blasting the shit out of your main baffle.
If you're talking about overgassing your gun that's one thing, as it's understandable to not want an adjustable gas block. Buffer weighs are cheap and easy to swap tho and it's very standard to do so.

Most cans are rated higher than the cartridge they're usually used for, like a 5.56 can will be rated for 22cm or a .30 will be good to 300RUM or PRC, or some amount of full auto. Auto is gonna be tougher than most cartridges you can throw at it, as hot metal wears much faster. Sound wise I think it depends on gas volume of the cartridge if you have an undersize can but that doesn't matter when you're wearing earpro regardless.
There's videos of guys shooting .22 cans with 5.56, and although they can take up to a make or two, there's just not enough thermal mass or cooling and they get weak and pop.

Also idk how you're getting better groups with green tip unless. Either you've shot the shittest reman or you landed on some great stuff. What barrel you running? 55gn PMC Bronze and X-TAC have been the most accurate FMJ I've shot out of my guns. A number of dudes on YouTube have gotten great groups, like in the CDOES Ruger American video where he gets a 3/8 inch 4 shot group with a flier. The X-TAC is some hot stuff too, pretty damn close to NATO power.
 
I don't see how grain weight can make that much of a difference in terms of damage and whatnot. In fact, a 77 would be better as you've got less unburnt powder blasting the shit out of your main baffle.
If you're talking about overgassing your gun that's one thing, as it's understandable to not want an adjustable gas block. Buffer weighs are cheap and easy to swap tho and it's very standard to do so.

Most cans are rated higher than the cartridge they're usually used for, like a 5.56 can will be rated for 22cm or a .30 will be good to 300RUM or PRC, or some amount of full auto. Auto is gonna be tougher than most cartridges you can throw at it, as hot metal wears much faster. Sound wise I think it depends on gas volume of the cartridge if you have an undersize can but that doesn't matter when you're wearing earpro regardless.
There's videos of guys shooting .22 cans with 5.56, and although they can take up to a make or two, there's just not enough thermal mass or cooling and they get weak and pop.

Also idk how you're getting better groups with green tip unless. Either you've shot the shittest reman or you landed on some great stuff. What barrel you running? 55gn PMC Bronze and X-TAC have been the most accurate FMJ I've shot out of my guns. A number of dudes on YouTube have gotten great groups, like in the CDOES Ruger American video where he gets a 3/8 inch 4 shot group with a flier. The X-TAC is some hot stuff too, pretty damn close to NATO power.
I’m gay and retarded
 
Got to shoot one of those hellcat rdp's and damed if that little muzzle brake doesn't make a difference. It felt like I was shooting my CZ-75 SP-01 instead of a micro 9.
 
Before the site crashed and asked about a slim rifle flashlight and got an answer that was lost in the rollback. Apologies, I don’t remember from whom.

Does anyone know a nice <1” OD flashlight? Preferably with a remote.
 
Does anyone know where I can get a good .22 and or a .25 Airgun pellet Mould from? I can make one but I'd rather just buy one at the moment the prices are stupid considering the cost of lead and I have half a ton of the stuff sitting around I don't just want to scrap.
 
In general, I've been told mil-spec is aiming for "cheapest but hopefully reliable" for most stuff. That's probably ok for some equipment, but I imagine a lot of the mil-spec fascination is stuff like "wow navy seals use the P226 I have to get one too".

Technically wouldn't the cooking utensils in the mess kitchen be "mil-spec" too?
Never forget. Mil-Spec simply means "The people who did the bare minimum requirement, at the absolute lowest price."
 
In the process of getting my ID in my gay state. We have a 10 round mag limit.

I'm applying for my general ID as well as a handgun license.

I'm sure it's been done to death, but I'd love some suggestions for a first-time-buyer's handgun, rifle, and shotgun.

I'm no stranger to the safe operation and maintenance of firearms, this will be my first time owning one, however.
 
In the process of getting my ID in my gay state. We have a 10 round mag limit.

I'm applying for my general ID as well as a handgun license.

I'm sure it's been done to death, but I'd love some suggestions for a first-time-buyer's handgun, rifle, and shotgun.

I'm no stranger to the safe operation and maintenance of firearms, this will be my first time owning one, however.
Budget and goals? What aside 10 round mags do you have to work with law wise?

Hope you all are well. Got poppa basso one of those 100 dollars 12g off PSA because he wants a shotgun for some off reason and doesn't want my broken 1100 lol.

I figured i can kinda Smith, it's legitimately a tube with a nail in the back not much can go wrong on a shotgun. Takes 3" shells. Eh I'm still a rad son but didn't want to pony up for a m4 for a safe queen.
 
Does anyone know where I can get a good .22 and or a .25 Airgun pellet Mould from? I can make one but I'd rather just buy one at the moment the prices are stupid considering the cost of lead and I have half a ton of the stuff sitting around I don't just want to scrap.
Look at NOE or MP molds, they've both got tons of good looking ones. Also buy sizers, NOE has them and they're cheap and will improve accuracy greatly. Try slugging your barrel to see what sizers you need, and then get 3 with one above and one below.
I'd also look into either getting a cheap reloading press for sizing or a small arbor press. Or you could thug it out with a hammer and have the sizer stuffed into a block of wood like yours truly.

Idk what your level of autism you're at, but a $10 Hunter Biden crackarooski scale is very useful for sorting by weight class if you want even more accuracy.
And if you have the capabilities you could make some sort of swaging die and further process the slugs to be better with afore mentioned arbor press, or maybe Lee press. Idk if a reloading press has the force to swage, but if you get a cheap used one you could always just resell it and break even.

Also, idk what melting setup you've got, but if you don't have an electric melter 100% get the big Lee one with the bottom spout. I got the big one without the spout, but I recently used one with and it's a game changer. Tempted to rig something up and drill a hole in mine now.
 
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