Mega Rad Gun Thread

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MrJokerRager said:
@Club Sandwich the free floater that I have, apparently uses a barrel nut similar to @Particle Bored first picture.

Two set of Torx screws each on both sides are torqued in.
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reminds me of the old JP Enterprises design from the late 90's. while they do work well enough, they were prone to shear failure when struck or dropped. Bushmaster and DPMS used the threaded barrel nut/jam nut approach because it would allow for a stronger attachment and they had the machine tools for threading both pieces with reasonable precision for relatively low cost.

it was a cost reduction of the older (early 90's i think) Colt Match Target's that were customized by Bill Wylde with the Wylde chamber in a stainless 1/8 Kreiger barrel and some fancy gubbins including a carbon fiber wrapped GFR free float tube that threaded into place using a specialized barrel nut. DPMS opted to modify this special barrel nut with a jam nut in conjunction with manufacturing from YHM (later YHM bought the design entirely), while Bushmaster did their own thing with JP Enterprises. so if you google old school YHM free floats you might get something similar to that. Dtech i think imports clones from China with this design too, it's meant to be "timed" with peel washers or i guess if it's really cheap, just shim stock.
 
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Particle Bored said:
Just an FYI: the screws themselves are called machine screws.

This is a torx head (sometimes called "star head"):
View attachment 2706886

This is a hex head (sometimes called "allen head"):
View attachment 2706887

If the head is rounded outward, it's a "button head." If it's flat with an angled underside (for flush fit) it's a "countersunk head." If it's cylindrical, it's a "cap head" or "socket cap." If it has a small pin sticking up in the middle, it's a "security torx/security hex" (sometimes called "anti-tamper").
View attachment 2706888

If you get a new handguard, it's likely it will come with the appropriate barrel nut (at least mine did), otherwise you would need to be sure the inside diameter on the guard matched the outside diameter of the nut.

Appropriate torque for the nut itself is 35-50lb/ft; general home assembly advises some moly grease against the upper receiver to prevent galling and seizing, so I assume a factory-built rifle would have the same, but it's probably not easy to remove without a firm vise grip and properly sized wrench. Haven't had to actually remove one myself yet.
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Fun aside: in the event you run in to a security torx and dont have a security torx driver for it, you can take a flathead that is about 1/3rd the size of the torx head and pin it between the security circle and in to the two hex ends on the same side and pop them off in a pinch. If you'e doing this though understand you're probably using a precision soft head screw driver to do it and you are most likely going to bend the absolute shit out of it getting the bolt/screw out
 
Pocket Dragoon said:
Presented without comment.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=Vj9wPH3_f78
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For months now Ivan has been teasing the 3D Gun community with some kind of mystery project, all that we know about it is that it is going to be a parts kit build, that the gun has some kind of connection to France and this recent tweet indicating that whatever Ivan is working on will either be a pistol or will have a pistol version, also maybe potentially something related to Obama. tweet is linked below.
 
AGPinochet said:
For months now Ivan has been teasing the 3D Gun community with some kind of mystery project, all that we know about it is that it is going to be a parts kit build, that the gun has some kind of connection to France and this recent tweet indicating that whatever Ivan is working on will either be a pistol or will have a pistol version, also maybe potentially something related to Obama. tweet is linked below.
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I hope it's a 3D printed Obama that will build me a FAMAS.
 
Particle Bored said:
Heh is the odd design just so they can use an AR FCG?
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Not exactly, the odd design is because you can't 1:1 print a 1911 frame in polymer like you can kind of do with a glock frame. There's a reason why even modern day $3000 "2011's" have metal inserts in their polymer grip modules.
 
AGPinochet said:
Not exactly, the odd design is because you can't 1:1 print a 1911 frame in polymer like you can kind of do with a glock frame. There's a reason why even modern day $3000 "2011's" have metal inserts in their polymer grip modules.
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Poly80 glocks have a metal insert as well.

Granted I dont know dick about the specific design of 1911s, so I could understand if the required metal durability is differently integrated.
 
AGPinochet said:
Yes, the rails. 3D Printed glocks also require rails. The metal insert in a polymer 2011 grip module while acting as a guide for the reciprocation of the slide has much, much more material than glock rails.
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The Poly80 insert is also the locking block that shifts the barrel and halts the reciprocation of the slide, but point taken.
 
WinchesterWhiskey said:
My M1 Garand from CMP came in a few weeks ago.

I'm happy with it.
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if it's one in .30-06, i recommend an adjustable gas plug to allow you to shoot modern .30-06 ammunition if you like. M2 Ball is otherwise required due to the pressure curve needed for the older gas system and can be a bit annoying to find.
 
With all these 3d and 80% glock frames out there, is there a "glock" Nodak? Someone making a knock off G1 frame? As a collector I'd like a OG g1 g17 gosh... it's a collectors item now. But I'm also happy having "something like" vs a real deal at least on my beer budget for time being.

Speaking of building things, took my friend who's been into shooting for about 10 years now, out for a nice range day and she's wanting to build an AR. It's a mixed blessing getting friends into the sport/hobby, but then guess who's doing all the building/reloading/cleaning.

I should charge more ... because when you say beer sometimes you get Dog Fish Head... tonight I got bud lite wtf.
 
AGPinochet said:
Yes, the rails. 3D Printed glocks also require rails. The metal insert in a polymer 2011 grip module while acting as a guide for the reciprocation of the slide has much, much more material than glock rails.
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Speaking of rail inserts; today I was helping my wife take down & clean her Taurus Spectrum, and while tinkering with it (the mag release is reversible), I noticed something I've never seen before. These pistols come in a plethora of colors, including the rubber slide grips/panels. But I was concerned that they'd eventually peel off, being glued to the slide. But I was wrong.
IMG_20211114_190704877~2.jpg

These pop the pistol open easy, very nice.
IMG_20211114_190810339~2.jpg
IMG_20211114_190842517~2.jpg

Then I noticed that the slide rails don't have a uniform surface, adjacent to bolt block. So I pulled the firing pin & bolt.
IMG_20211114_190949507~2.jpg

IMG_20211114_192630847_HDR~2.jpg

The slide grip panels are molded plastic, backed with rubber. At first I thought they were MIM parts. And surprisingly the parts show litte (if any) wear on the friction areas; this particular pistol has fired approx 500+ rounds. The only fault I have found is that it doesn't like Blazer at all; the primers are too hard & the firing-pin spring isn't stout enough.

Anyways..... these things were on sale at our local shop for $150 last year, and pretty much everyone in my family got one for Christmas & birthdays. So far I haven't heard any complaints, everyone loves their Spectrums, except for not running Blazer. I think a stronger firing pin spring would easily remedy the issue.

So I thought the design choice was interesting; it definitely helped remove weight from the slide. And they're not really something that can fail & jam the pistol. Even when the panels wear down, it's not going to impede anything with normal cleaning.

Other than that, they're surprising accurate, only needing help from a paint pen on the rear sight notch & front post. Very much worth the $150.

Edit: It's possible to get the slide inserts/panels separately from Taurus, in any color; they're like .50ea. Also ask for a replacement striker spring, to fix the light primer strikes, as a warranty replacement.
 
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WinchesterWhiskey said:
It seems to be around on Ammoseek, and I don't intend on shooting commercial ammo from it.
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I still see the 200 round spam cans of Greek M2 Ball around; prices have gone up, but it's good ammo to have.

If you shoot anything else, just make sure it's 150 grain. But I've known guys who exclusively shoot 140 grain, and they've never bent an op rod.
 
Alright, time to decide what gun I buy next. I have the following:

Mossberg 450Bushmaster - Shoots deer.
Browning BPS 12GA 3" chamber, with rifled and field barrels - small game/waterfowl
AR15 in .223/5.56 - bought off of someone, I think the upper/lower are DPMS? They set it up for coyote hunting.
Sar9 - A basic handgun to get used to handling one.
Type 99 Arisaka - Handed down to me by my grandfather. Just fun to shoot

Not looking for anything in particular. Thinking either a .22 for small game/give to my child if I ever have one, a new AR for tacticool/boogaloo/home defense, or a more traditional deer rifle for when I'm in areas without retarded caliber restrictions.

Bonus points for historical firearms or wood stocks.
 
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