Mega Rad Gun Thread

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John Badman said:
I’ll put it on the wish list for upgrade. What’s the difference between a paddle and a wedge? I know I need to get one of the two but I’m putting it off until it arrives so I know how to fit it. Do you have any recommendations for what I can throw on the backside of alien gear? I have no clue if it’s proprietary mounting or if it fits in a clip.
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Looking at the front I guess I can just slide a pad under that clip. Should I buy an oval shaped one so the sidecar is also covered?
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John Badman said:
Are drop leg holsters better for larger combat pistols?
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They are easier to draw from for a novice. you know those old cowboy holsters in all those old westerns? the ones that are essentially drop legs? like this:
OIP.jpg

Its not historical in the least bit for a 19 century holster but it was easier for the actors to draw faster to look good on TV gunslinger duels. the leather strings that they usually have holding the holster to the leg is also a hollywood invention.

in reality quick draw duels never happened outside of one instance: the hickok-tutt duel in 1865. Both wild bill and davis tutt saw eachother at the same time and drew at the same time. both fired at the same time, so close to eachother that many witness reported only one gunshot. tutt missed. hickok didn't. Tutt was shot through the heart at 75 yards.
 
help me out with MP5 optics fellas. the HK style irons are the greatest to have blessed my vision. i'm putting holes within holes with them, but i yearn for something illuminated. lightweight and magnified, even. i love their prisms but no way PA's SL3x has the eye relief for something like the HKParts raised mount. should i just go for broke, say fuck the iron sights and sell enough jenkem for an ACOG? maybe a mini? would the gun itself being made by MKE matter? should i shit myself and do nothing?
edit: maybe even put buffalo bore +P+ 147gr for coyote business?
 
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POWER IN MISERY said:
help me out with MP5 optics fellas. the HK style irons are the greatest to have blessed my vision. i'm putting holes within holes with them, but i yearn for something illuminated. lightweight and magnified, even. i love their prisms but no way PA's SL3x has the eye relief for something like the HKParts raised mount. should i just go for broke, say fuck the iron sights and sell enough jenkem for an ACOG? maybe a mini? would the gun itself being made by MKE matter? should i shit myself and do nothing?
edit: maybe even put buffalo bore +P+ 147gr for coyote business?
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Is a plain old red dot out of the question?
 
VSK-94
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Hexagon
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Malian Taureg Rebel with ASM, probably from that ambush on Wagner a few months back
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Stolen from SoldierSystems, concept for a heavily modified MK48 that incorporates constant recoil
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The guy behind it also appears to have a patent regarding the use of vegetable oil as Firearms coolant?

10.5in .300 Blackout with a Solo-300 Upper at the heart
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Wood stocked RMB-93
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AGPinochet said:
The man behind it
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Comparison to AUG
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Sureshot USA now offers their MK.3 Chassis for Milled receivers
Shown here is the MK.3 "Block II" which is the pic rail variant
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Standard MK.3
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Printed STEN Trigger pack thingy
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Custom Printed .22lr mag with 10/22 adapter sleeve
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3D Printed 8 round spring loaded "Syringe" loader for a 12 Gauge. Insert into loading port, move nub out of locking position, resume firing
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Video of the process without a spring

Some years ago, Voere, makers of the VEC-191 electronically ignited caseless rifle whipped up a design for the laser ignition of standard cartridges with special primers
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That is not a firing pin, but a laser emitter
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uhhhh
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Uhhhh (part 2) (site won't let me insert)





I found this guy (who hangs out with Garand Thumb apparently) who larps as Walter Sobchak from "The Big Lebowski" who has been as the kids say, cooking, with some interesting cartridge loading

Article on converting Hybrid case 6.8x51 brass to .308 to achieve 2412fps on a 212gr bullet out of a 18'' barrel (for comparison, a 24'' .308 barrel can propel a 175gr BTHP at 2645fps and a 24'' .300 Win Mag barrel can propel a 220gr BTHP at 2875fps)

Using ShellShock NAS3 .300 Blackout cases to achieve 2380fps with a 120gr solid copper projectile out of a 12.85in barrel. Wikipedia lists a velocity of 2215fps for a 125gr OTM out of a 16'' barrel
More writing on the subject (including footage of him hanging out with Garand Thumb)

New production KAC Masterkey's (not produced by KAC) are coming to market at an MSRP of $1800

Experimental full auto Keltec PMR-30



Have you ever wanted to see a meltdown video on an SR-3 Vikhr? well are you in luck.
 
POWER IN MISERY said:
help me out with MP5 optics fellas. the HK style irons are the greatest to have blessed my vision. i'm putting holes within holes with them, but i yearn for something illuminated. lightweight and magnified, even. i love their prisms but no way PA's SL3x has the eye relief for something like the HKParts raised mount. should i just go for broke, say fuck the iron sights and sell enough jenkem for an ACOG? maybe a mini? would the gun itself being made by MKE matter? should i shit myself and do nothing?
edit: maybe even put buffalo bore +P+ 147gr for coyote business?
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accept chin weld if you want both irons and optic at the same time. most who use them professionally will use a QD low profile picatinny mount and whatever optic works for an AR. remove when needed.

the MP5 (and nearly all roller delay weapons) are ammunition sensitive to some degree and while in semi auto it should work okay with almost anything (the unmarked standard MP5 locking piece is 100 degrees) you may need a different one if fast firing results in bolt overrun or failure to extract/eject when shooting 147gr ammunition. if it's +p+ you may be okay, but i would check for extractor claw marks on the rims of cases for hard extraction and if found consider either not using +p+ ammunition or using a #25 locking piece.
 
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John Badman said:
Just got back from the range, I’m definitely getting better at shooting. I feel powerful. I picked up a cheap gprs $50 radio to plug into my walker recons.

Am I tacticool yet?
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You need to buy cheap low quality impractical and unnecessary shit to mount to your rifle and yourself. Get some Temu armor plates, a handful of NCStar products from the finest ebay reseller, and post your abomination on reddit for updoots. Then you'll be tacticool
 
EggImpregnator said:
When i have the magnifier on, im like "wow this thing is big and uneeded" but when i take it off im like "but what if i DO need it". So for now it stays on.
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I like mine for competitions when they have us take shots past 100m but 200m or further the 3x starts to suffer compared to a lpvo. My right eye is also a tad near sighted while my left is perfect 20/20 so it also helps get a clearer picture of the dot too.
 
POWER IN MISERY said:
not exactly but i haven't had a hands on, eyes on experience with optics that work particularly well with astigmatism other than something like an EOTECH or PA prisms.
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I imagine it depends on how bad your astigmatism is that will dictate how the sights work for you. I have that too, and with vision correction it's...reasonable. I've also noticed that red dots from different companies are all a little different. Aimpoint works the best for me. Their T2 and their Duty RDS are both pretty good with contacts, and are their best with glasses. The Trijicon MRO is not very good at all in red, and damn near unusable in green set bright enough to use during the day.

Can you try any optics out before you commit to a purchase? Any gun stores around you that will let you do that? I don't think you'd need to mount them, maybe just hold them out in space and see what works.
Club Sandwich said:
accept chin weld
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I'm a boomer and was taught by boomers so for decades I've been a hardcore "cheek weld" guy. I'm betting that was probably born out of the era when iron sights were by far the norm on rifles. Things are quite different now.

It wasn't until recently when I took a LR shooting class that I was introduced to a "mandible weld." I don't know that I'll be switching over for every long gun but it helps a lot with anything that has an optic on it. On a LR rifle setup I can get a good sight picture with less of my body adding input to the rifle. On ARs since I bring the rifle up high as opposed to rolling my shoulder forward or doing the tactical turtle thing, I now get more contact with the stock against my torso. That mitigates the rather mild recoil of the AR just that much more, meaning my splits are a little bit faster.

Finally, it makes it a lot easier to wear headphone ear pro when shooting rifles.
 
Dean Pentel said:
It wasn't until recently when I took a LR shooting class that I was introduced to a "mandible weld." I don't know that I'll be switching over for every long gun but it helps a lot with anything that has an optic on it. On a LR rifle setup I can get a good sight picture with less of my body adding input to the rifle. On ARs since I bring the rifle up high as opposed to rolling my shoulder forward or doing the tactical turtle thing, I now get more contact with the stock against my torso. That mitigates the rather mild recoil of the AR just that much more, meaning my splits are a little bit faster.
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Do you have any videos on this technique? I've never heard of this and it sounds cool.
 
Which one? The jaw weld or how high I bring up the rifle? Tell you what, I'll give you both.

Here is Francis Colon demonstrating mandible weld on an LR rifle. If you can't tell, this allows him a lot less influence over the rifle when he's breathing, so he doesn't have that much reticle wobble compared to if he had more/stronger contact with the rifle.

Watch how high up Tony Cowden mounts his rifle post-reload here. You see how he's able to keep his neck closer to neutral and he can engage targets more with his body more square to them? That's a big part of why I like using this technique for gas guns.
 
MrJokerRager said:
Fixed sights with a red dot?

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Personally I feel like the irons just block too much of the open view of the sight, run one or the other unless you really want to.

Side note love the Scalarworks fixed rear sight, I have both the front and rear fixed sights on my rifle. Nice wider and open peap sight and thinner front post for 16 inch barrels makes it easier to acquire your target.
 
I’m planning on putting a can on my Glock. Should I go short suppressor or long suppressor? I thought I might want a radian compensator but I’m iffy on the barrel compared to a Glock manufactured thread.

Is it possible to go down to the store today and fill out that paperwork 3 months in advance before I actually buy the NFA item? Also, is it a repeated process if I apply for something like an SBR?

I’ve heard from gun Jesus that B&T’s Impuls IIA is real good on Glocks.
 
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John Badman said:
Is it possible to go down to the store today and fill out that paperwork 3 months in advance before I actually buy the NFA item?
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You need the serial number for the item in question or there is nothing to file paperwork for. Most dealers for suppressors will work with you on this.
Also, is it a repeated process if I apply for something like an SBR?
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You will have to register the receiver as an SBR before you construct it as an SBR, if you would like to suppress it on top of that it's another tax stamp. There are ways around the excess length by way of having an integrated suppressor but that's a specialty job.
 
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