Mega Rad Gun Thread

  • Want to keep track of this thread?
    Accounts can bookmark posts, watch threads for updates, and jump back to where you stopped reading.
    Create account
Hey @Club Sandwich, you seem to be the other knowledgeable one here on obscure stuff. Do you know anything about Cobb manufacturing MCRs or where to find mag wells for them?
 
Do you know anything about Cobb manufacturing MCRs or where to find mag wells for them?
it was a long action AR type rifle that was very unreliable with a long action and barely reliable with short action. last i heard CDNN liquidated their inventory and the company and serialized guns and some tooling was sold to Bushmaster in 2007 or 2008 and Skip moved on to other stuff, might still be with DRD Tactical. what became of the tools to make the magazine wells (which were individually fitted to each receiver btw, what a shitshow) after Bushmaster bought Cobb Inc i have no clue.
 
it was a long action AR type rifle that was very unreliable with a long action and barely reliable with short action. last i heard CDNN liquidated their inventory and the company and serialized guns and some tooling was sold to Bushmaster in 2007 or 2008 and Skip moved on to other stuff, might still be with DRD Tactical. what became of the tools to make the magazine wells (which were individually fitted to each receiver btw, what a shitshow) after Bushmaster bought Cobb Inc i have no clue.
Oh god. I didn't know the mag wells were individually fitted. My plan with the one I just got was to swap the G3 mag well out with a long action one, then have a few barrels made in calibers like 6.5 swede, 7.5 swiss, and 8x57 mauser.
 
I'll be getting a SP-01 next year :)
Let me also recommend you be on the lookout for a used SP-01 Shadow (not the Shadow 2). I think it superior to the standard SP-01 but not to the exclusion of the standard model. Whatever you get you'll love it. My only complaint with these platforms is that if I want to carry double action I have to manually decock the pistols. I've never had an ND doing this but I just don't like it.
I fucking love Mecgar mags for my CZ75B.
Unless Beretta or CZ factory mags are on sale for the same price as the Mecgars I see no reason not to opt for them first. I have quite a few Mecgar mags and I've never had issues with any of them. Worth their price.
you can also forget all that noise and get a one-piece mount and worry only about rotation and over-tightening. for military equipment with an integrated mount (ACOG, Wilcox, Aimpoint, Steiner, et c) the good old M14/M60 "hand tight and a quarter more" works great, also a half dollar works great as a field screw driver, as does the back of a bayonet, edge of an entrenching tool, and so on.
If you know you're going to have a few magnified optics in your arsenal I highly recommend this piece of kit. I mount my optics on it (mounted these days in this, HIGHLY RECOMMENDED), mount that to one of my tripods, and level it with with a plumb bob. This is after I've verified where it needs to be for eye relief on the rifle.

I used to use the Real Avid Level Right Pro and the Wheeler Engineering PRLS and they're both okay. I get the most of out of how I do it now. Keep in mind I've only ever used one-piece mounts. Clubber already has it covered for the rings.

Here's a helpful video for basically how I do it now.
 
Last edited:
I didn't know the mag wells were individually fitted.
well, i say that, and while it's true, they are fitted horizontally in the correct position for that specific receiver as there is a second retaining pin at the rear of the magazine well for vertical alignment and these two pins had enough play that the magazine well was a little "loose" or overly tight, neither of which was good. this sort of fitting is conceptually similar to how competition revolver cylinders are "fitted" as are old school parts where they are purposely slightly over-sized in a critical area to be fitted by a gunsmith for that particular firearm.

with a block of aluminum and measurements you can do the same thing, it's not much different from fitting a mag well insert into a mauser action conversion (for example converting a mauser or enfield to fire from a p38 or 1911 magazine - use the front hinge pin to locate and measure everything, then drill out the rear pin and shim for horizontal alignment. it's a lot more work that what the army wanted, wasn't reliably interchangeable, and so was out of the running for a multicaliber rifle pretty early on. colt 901 had a similar idea but used the front pin only, the rear "pin" locator was the standard AR-15 magazine release, and height was defined by an internal ledge machined into the upper receiver.

since you mention the .308 version, the MCR-200, it's worth noting it isn't DPMS or AR-10 pattern, but a bit of a mix between them. i've heard the MCR-200 was significantly better than the MCR-300, but that's not saying much when the MCR-300 i tried couldn't get through 1 magazine without a failure of some kind.

my own weird AR-a-like i keep around for funsies is a mid 90's Z-M LR-300, which seems to at least have some compatible parts on the market for it vs the Cobb. even the XCR or OA pistols have more stuff out there. the Cobb MCR is definitely more of a hobby gun to play at machining stuff if you like experimenting.
 
since you mention the .308 version, the MCR-200, it's worth noting it isn't DPMS or AR-10 pattern, but a bit of a mix between them. i've heard the MCR-200 was significantly better than the MCR-300, but that's not saying much when the MCR-300 i tried couldn't get through 1 magazine without a failure of some kind.
Specifically my MCR-200 has a Cobb HK G3 mag well, not the weird hybrid mix. I knew the mag thing about them going in, but I got lucky when I found the G3 one.


my own weird AR-a-like i keep around for funsies is a mid 90's Z-M LR-300, which seems to at least have some compatible parts on the market for it vs the Cobb. even the XCR or OA pistols have more stuff out there. the Cobb MCR is definitely more of a hobby gun to play at machining stuff if you like experimenting.
I want you to know that I hate you for having a LR-300. I guess I just have to settle for my AR-70
 
I want you to know that I hate you for having a LR-300. I guess I just have to settle for my AR-70
trust me when i say it's both fun and interesting to collect weird guns, but also expensive and difficult to shoot when they use weird ammo or parts are nonexistent in case of breakage. other more "common" stuff can just be extremely expensive (GPMG parts for example, common enough but can be $$$ sometimes).
 
trust me when i say it's both fun and interesting to collect weird guns, but also expensive and difficult to shoot when they use weird ammo or parts are nonexistent in case of breakage. other more "common" stuff can just be extremely expensive (GPMG parts for example, common enough but can be $$$ sometimes).
Oh I know, I have a decent collection which can be seen on my youtube channel. My old crossfire mk1 was also featured by Brandon Herrera recently after he bought it off consignment from cabelas.
 
Oh I know, I have a decent collection which can be seen on my youtube channel. My old crossfire mk1 was also featured by Brandon Herrera recently after he bought it off consignment from cabelas.
Funny you say that, he literally just mentioned and corroborated this on the unsub episode uploaded an hour ago. And also mentioned it came with a letter stating how fucking dogshit the gun is and rules for how to not break it.
 
Funny you say that, he literally just mentioned and corroborated this on the unsub episode uploaded an hour ago. And also mentioned it came with a letter stating how fucking dogshit the gun is and rules for how to not break it.
I fucking hated that gun so fucking much that it drove me insane. Originally I was gonna keep it but after having to spend 5 hours fixing it after it was racked on safe, I decided against it. Cause I know I would have broken it.

Also, to anyone who has a crossfire here. I am probably the only person alive who knows how to gunsmith one, contact me if you break yours. My fee is $100 every 30min.
 
I'm not meaning to be overly pedantic but it depends on how much he shoots. If he's only running his rifle once in a while it's simply not worth the upfront costs. Also, reloading is not a time-friendly endeavor. Finally, he may not be enough of an autist to really enjoy reloading. He doesn't need to be all Primal Rights about it, but you get what I'm saying.

They do make carry and concealment a lot easier. I tried my level best to get into it with 2 Springfield XD-S pistols and a S&W Shield. In the end I opt for an M&P 2.0 Compact in 9mm when I want to carry light. This isn't to say snubbies or micro compacts don't work because they'll stop a fight just fine. I'm like you in that I appreciate a pistol that isn't so small it brings additional challenges to shooting it well.

S&W M&P in 10mm is decent. Getting Apex Tactical fire control parts in it makes quite good. The Sig 320 XTen is pretty good too but it's damn big. That too has excellent aftermarket options for upgrades.

They no longer import these but EAA used to bring in a lovely 10mm in their Witness Elite Match line. I'm no longer looking for one but I've heard those are solid (if you can find one these days). Might be worth looking into if you want a steel framed double stack 10mm.

EAA Witness is just Tangfolio, and you can still get them in the States as Tangfolio.
 
I vehemently disagree that the ACOG is antiquated and a waste of money.
It's an optic family initially designed in the 1980s that costs upwards of a thousand dollars. Its claim to fame is "muh fiber optic, muh SOCOM." It's antiquated. If you love fixed magnification, the inability to get a sight picture at night, and the possibility of your reticle getting uncomfortably bright during the daytime, you'll love it.
They have a lot of benefits that other optics don't offer, such as never needing batteries (unless you get the LED model) and their rugged construction.
You're going to be changing out batteries anyway if you recognize the potential issues mentioned earlier and spring for the LED model. As for rugged construction, the average LPVO or red dot will hold up to whatever abuse us spergs can throw at it. We're not going to be dropping bombs on them.
There was a Marine during the GWOT who took a 7.62x39mm round to his ACOG, blasting a sizable hole in the side, and it didn't even lose zero.
I highly doubt any of us here are Marines that'll take a hit to the optic while battling hajis.
I think they're a great option for anyone who wants a simple, rugged optic for a fighting carbine or PCC and doesn't want a red dot.
The thing about rifles meant for fighting is that if you have to use them for fighting, you're most likely not going to be able to pick the time, the lighting and the distance. A good LPVO with an illuminated reticle or a red dot with magnifier will cover a larger spread of possible scenarios better than an ACOG will, doing so at a much lower price (the only real drawback is weight). This is why nobody serious is using ACOGs anymore. The last time I saw someone using an ACOG, it was six months ago and the only reason he was running it was because it was a clone build. They're rare for a reason.

They're not shit optics. They have a use case and they meet that use case very well. The problem is that the use case is very narrow and our understanding of combat has evolved to the point that ACOGs are recognized as insufficient to meet a variety of modern challenges. Same thing happened to the M1 Garand and the 1911. The ACOG was hot shit in the 90s and everyone wanted one. Not the case anymore.
 
they come in through IFG now. the witness name is retired since EAA lost the import rights.

Yep. IFG is also who is importing the FK Brno and 7.5fk ammo. I've bought a box through them so far and everything went smoothly. I want to order a box of the 101gr high velocity ammo from them next, as well as more 95gr high velocity "discarding tip" hollow points. I don't think they offer the 95gr jacketed lead core hollow point ammo any longer, only the solid copper stuff. I bought a 50rnd box of the jacketed hollow points when I first bought my PSD as well as 50rnds of the solid copper 95gr "discarding tip" and used the jacketed ammo to sight in the RMR on my PSD. It really is a fun pistol to shoot and I want to get a holster for it someday. It's definitely one of my more exotic guns.
 
So I got my Beretta 92x (used) last week and ran into some problems with it. First of all, the RMR plate was still attached to the slide and one of the screws holding it in place was stripped. And as if that weren't enough, I took it to the range today only to discover the firing pin was fucked. It would chamber rounds just fine, but it would go click every time I pulled the trigger. Not even a misfire because there was literally zero indentation on the primer. And the extractor works just fine too.

I swear if Bubba somehow got loctite in the firing pin mechanism.... Used guns are a dice roll and I rolled a nat 1 with this one.
 
So I got my Beretta 92x (used) last week and ran into some problems with it. First of all, the RMR plate was still attached to the slide and one of the screws holding it in place was stripped. And as if that weren't enough, I took it to the range today only to discover the firing pin was fucked. It would chamber rounds just fine, but it would go click every time I pulled the trigger. Not even a misfire because there was literally zero indentation on the primer. And the extractor works just fine too.

I swear if Bubba somehow got loctite in the firing pin mechanism.... Used guns are a dice roll and I rolled a nat 1 with this one.
Could be something else. Did you try the pencil trick?
Put a pencil down the barrel, eraser end first. Pull the trigger, if the firing pin is moving at all, it'll launch the pencil out. if it's not the pin and it's the spring, you'll at least see a weak indentation on the eraser.
It's all good. Same thing happened with my wife's cheetah, thankfully got a pin for it.
Edit: just reread, isn't even hitting primer. you can take the slide off and push the pin, see if you can see it. Could also be something fouled and in the way.
 
Back
Top Bottom