Mega Rad Gun Thread

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Particle Bored said:
I've seen people say the cheaper 1911s are sometimes literally a little "rougher around the edges," but once you get past the snobbery the cheap ones are generally fine. Id like a 1911, and I'll probably get an RIA at some point.

I'm also jealous of people near ranges that allow rapid fire and sillouette/image targets.
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I've got a Rock Island 1911. Other than having to adjust the extractor a few times to get it right mine has run fine. There may be some questions as to metallurgy, so long term durability and hard surface drops may be an issue. I will tell you that the grip screws on the ones that come with the VZ grips suck, had the head of one break off taking the grips off to clean off the crazy amount of oil mine came drenched in from the factory. Had to drill the shaft of the screw out and replace the bushing.
 
Last time I spoke to my father about his small firearms collection, he had just bought a civilian AUG. Now he is telling me that he sold the AUG and got one of those tacticool Springfield Armory M1As with the shorter barrel, rails all over the place, and black synthetic/plastic furniture; judging by the description, probably a SOCOM 16 type of deal. I hope I can borrow it for a weekend, as I've never shot an M14 variant before. My father must have had an M14 of some type when he was younger because he already has some beat up, old magazines and he sounds really fond of the M14 except for the traditional wooden stock, since pretty much all of those standard, gov-issue wooden stocks on milsurp rifles are longer than his preferred length of pull. Probably the SOCOM 16 furniture comes with a modern adjustable stock and that's why he's so giddy about it.

I wonder if all that lightweight synthetic furniture will make the front end feel heavier, since there's not a big chunk of wood at the other end to balance it out. Hopefully I'll be able to find out soon; I'm thinking of trading some stripper clips in exchange for range time on that thing, since I don't think my father has any clips to go with his magazines.
 
Notable pieces of my collection are
  • MAC 11
  • Tec-22
  • Ak-47
  • AR-15 I assembled myself and then took to a gunsmith to fix what I did wrong
  • 37mm tear gas gun, I get to brag on /int/ freedomland lets me own a grenade launcher
  • my car piece is a revolver so cheaply made it could be mistaken for a toy
 
Imagine getting shot by this and thinking its a assault rifle from medium to long range.


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I'm in the middle of building an AUG off a part kit. I just snagged two barrels "16 and 20" more I look at the gun more I feel like I dun goofed this is gonna be a tricky girl to get working. I've always loved the AUG for a bull pup even my south paw self can use it it's cool, iconic, time I've spent with one, recoil is really light, I have oodles of 223 stuff anyways so it was just a case of a found a cheap parts kit.

I really think this is gonna suck and with my tax return I'm thinking a CZ 572 7.62x39 bolt gun would be really handy, always had a soft spot.
 
Club Sandwich said:
it's actually easier to build a model 723 and 727 (or something between the two) and fairly cheap too:
1. any A2 spec lower with gen 2 or 3 "fiberlite" stock with four or 6 position buffer tube and H buffer
2. any A2 spec upper such as a brownell or DPMS upper and add an appropriate barrel assembly and upper parts kit or purchase one already assembled for cheap: https://www.midsouthshooterssupply....e-complete-upper-assembly-light-weight-barrel
3. snap together and install your lower parts, ensuring compliance with all applicable laws
4. go shoot

note that del-ton is a mediocre manufacturer and about as "cheap" as i would get and still have confidence to sell to someone that might use it for all purposes. going further "down the scale" would turn it more into a target/range type gun than something dependable for hunting or defense. the 1:9 barrel would be convenient as it'll be correct for most bullet lengths you would typically shoot (unless you want some very heavy bullets or tracers or something). and it would look the part.

a model 723 would use a C7 (A1E1 upper) and an A1 profile carbine barrel, while a model 727 would use an M4 profile barrel and A2 upper. it wasn't uncommon for police departments or some export countries to have an A2 upper and A1 carbine barrel (Israel for example or Saudi Arabia) because they didn't plan on using the M203 at all.
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Thanks a million. This is probably sacrilege because it's not authentic but I am thinking I might go with the flat top model because my s/o is having trouble with iron sights and would like to try using a red dot. My brother also has a spare detachable carry handle lying around that he wants me to have so I could fit that on too. Not sure about what red dot I'd like yet but open to any suggestions provided it's not one of those optics they sell for $500.
 
Petey Wheatstraw said:
This is probably sacrilege because it's not authentic but I am thinking I might go with the flat top model because my s/o is having trouble with iron sights and would like to try using a red dot. My brother also has a spare detachable carry handle lying around that he wants me to have so I could fit that on too.
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Colt model 920 (M4) or 921 (M4A1) are fairly authentic with a detachable carry handle although it isn't "retro". a Colt model 933 as well, which is less commonly seen.

you could also do a late production Bushmaster XM15-E2S Dissipator, which features a 16" medium contour barrel, a collapsible stock, a detachable carry handle, and rifle length sight radius an A2 handguards. this was sometimes called the "A3 Carbine" as well, which is incorrect, but common enough.

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these were towards the middle of the Clinton Crime Bill (about 1998 or so), and often had AWB friendly features like a muzzle brake and pinned magazine that was 10 rounds.

Petey Wheatstraw said:
Not sure about what red dot I'd like yet but open to any suggestions provided it's not one of those optics they sell for $500.
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while you do get what you pay for, there are many high quality reflex optics available these days like the Romeo series from SIG Sauer, Primary Arms, Holosun, Bushnell TRS, and even some used Aimpoints here or there as LE trade ins. sometimes you can also find the Trijicon RX01 as an LE trade in as well, but less common and often they are without the mount.
 
The Dude said:
I've had a couple Gen 3 S&W autos. The only one I liked was the S&W 1076. Generally, I'm not a bit fan of them, especially with how the recoil spring and guide rod are retained by a little notch where the chamber and barrel meet. I've had plenty of them go shooting off into the air or into the web of my hand during disassembly/reassembly because there isn't a lot keeping things in place. Virtually any modern pistol would be a better option, including the new S&W M&P pistols. But that's my opinion. For a metal framed pistol in .40 S&W, the SIG P226 or P229 is the superior choice.
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Pretty late response, but I've since picked up several 3rd Gens and the part about the guide rod is definitely true and they're a bit more annoying to disassemble and clean overall than my other guns are. The 1006 I got is easily my favorite pistol I've ever shot and I really like how the 4013 TSW and 5926 I also have handle and I'm definitely holding on to them but I can understand how dated their designs are.
 
gimmie your 1006 plz.

I done broke my MAS 36 :( I'm really upset about it. It's got such quirk I fell in love with it so fast. The bolt flat out locked shut, I was firing Priv and it just locked I even slammed it on the table hard enough to break said table a bit. It's sitting at home soaked in wd40.
 
Bassomatic said:
The bolt flat out locked shut, I was firing Priv and it just locked I even slammed it on the table hard enough to break said table a bit. It's sitting at home soaked in wd40.
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WD40 is a water displacement solution meant to separate water from a surface for cleaning. it isn't a lubricant, really, but a blend of 5 or 6 lubricants and a bunch of other solvents that sort of do many things for many projects.

a frozen bolt with rearward locking lugs (such as the MAS 36, Verletti and Schmidt-Rubin rifles and some others) will need to use an expanding penetrating oil like Kroil or PB Blaster pipetted into the recess areas of the receiver's locking faces to wick into the area and release the face from the interior. most alkanols will have a short evaporation in room temperatures so you can try releasing the frozen parts after only 10-15 minutes.

personally, i've used Gibbs (the dropper type, although the aerosol works too if you have a large area to work with) for frozen actions of all kinds, and it works well with gently applying a butane torch for 20 seconds or so then quickly (with a glove) moving the action to free it up. after it's cooled i usually inspect the areas to determine why it was locking up to begin with.

don't forget that sometimes you need to orient the rifle in odd ways to get the creeping/wicking action of the lubricant to flow into the right areas.
 
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Thank you, your posts and advice is always top notch, for that and 300 other reasons I'm looking forward to getting home tonight and grabbing some PB blaster to hopefully free her up.

I've only put a few dozen rounds thru her most all priv, some hand loads. The gun was in good shape so it's a new mystery to me.
 
Bassomatic said:
I've only put a few dozen rounds thru her most all priv, some hand loads. The gun was in good shape so it's a new mystery to me.
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a rifle in good shape may have an issue with the ammunition where it's expanded in the chamber in such a way that's it's physically pushing back against the bolt very strongly. this mechanical locking may need a rubber mallet to release, if you give the bolt a smack forward to crush the brass (presumably) case preventing the bolt from unlocking. i haven't seen that happen too often, but it does happen with headspace slop that let the case expand rearward slightly, just enough to make things stick and put extra pressure on the lugs.
 
I find that I like odd guns. I fell in love with the Canik TP9SA, and ended up buying a 9mm about a year ago. It's a beautiful little nail driver, and fun as hell to shoot. Odd rounds as well. I never really liked shooting .30-06, but I really love .300 Savage. Shoots like spreading butter. Problem is, there are almost no guns that use that round, short of the pump-action rifle I have now, and I kind of want to upgrade. I think going lever-action has a certain appeal, but I'm not too sold on the cost/performance ratio. Does anyone have experience with the 6.5 Creedmoor? Or do I have to go prepper and switch to .308?
 
dotONION said:
I find that I like odd guns. I fell in love with the Canik TP9SA, and ended up buying a 9mm about a year ago. It's a beautiful little nail driver, and fun as hell to shoot. Odd rounds as well. I never really liked shooting .30-06, but I really love .300 Savage. Shoots like spreading butter. Problem is, there are almost no guns that use that round, short of the pump-action rifle I have now, and I kind of want to upgrade. I think going lever-action has a certain appeal, but I'm not too sold on the cost/performance ratio. Does anyone have experience with the 6.5 Creedmoor? Or do I have to go prepper and switch to .308?
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you might like the Savage model 99.

6.5 Creedmoor has more "head room" than .308 Winchester, however it can be difficult to reload the brass more than a few times due to the web at the neck getting very thin very quickly. you can work up some very good loads with it. bullets are .2644" and readily available. commercial off the shelf ammunition tends to be very good out to 1km or so, with plenty of power at 600 meters for medium game if you're into mountain goat sniping.
 
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what's the muzzle velocity of a .308 out of a 16" barrel? I'm wondering because I want to know at what point it becomes more efficient to go to 7.62x39
 
Damocles_Sword said:
what's the muzzle velocity of a .308 out of a 16" barrel? I'm wondering because I want to know at what point it becomes more efficient to go to 7.62x39
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about 2650 fps for 147gr M80. it will vary on bullet weight and slightly on design/atmospheric pressure/ambient temperature, et c.

however, bullet design can vary quite a bit and that design will dictate the terminal ballistics (and effect on target). once you determine that, you can choose barrel length that will propel that bullet at the designed velocity.

consider the 11.5" 5.56x45 NATO rifle: this is typical for the "Commando" configuration of the Colt model 733 and 933 rifles.

if you go to a 10.5" barrel instead of the 11.5" barrel, you will lose about 150 fps. if your bullet is a fragmenting 55gr M193 design, you will lose significant lethality past 200 meters, making that bullet ineffective and require multiple shots on target to "do the business".

if you use a 10.5" barrel with a 75gr bullet with a hollow ogive (open tip) such like the Mk 318 design, you will retain lethality because the loss in velocity will allow the mushrooming and tumbling (although not fragmenting) of the bullet and be quite lethal even out to 300 meters because the Mk 318 only needs around 2300 fps to maintain lethality with its specific design (allowing the shooter to use very short barrels).

the 11.5" barrel with the 5.56x45 NATO 55gr M193 fragmenting ammunition requires the bullet to be stable in flight and be above 2700 fps to fragment reliably. a 10.5" barrel can get only slightly about 2600 on a good day.

so the question is: at what range and with what effect on target (what bullet design) do you want? choose that, then find out what velocity is needed to make that bullet do the job, the find the barrel of appropriate length to give the bullet that velocity.
 
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Anybody panic buying guns and/or ammo yet? I'm tempted to pick up a case (500-600 rounds) but I still don't have an upper yet for a pistol lower I built last month. I have 1k rounds of 22lr and a 10/22, but that's about it. Good for small game and deterrence, but not good for long term hunting and stopping a violent person who is also desperate.

I've been eyeing .300 AAC for my first upper since in an absolute pinch it can serve double duty as a deer gun, (fairly effective out to 100 yards I've read). I like the idea of getting away with a 8.5 to 10.5 inch barrel for the storage/transport gains. 5.56 NATO is going to be a lot easier to get a hold of though, so I'm struggling to go against the grain on this. I've read there are .223 deer loads but I'm skeptical.

I definitely want a carbine for defense, but then again, .308 bolt guns with scopes included are actually pretty reasonably priced, so it may make sense to just go for the 16 in. 5.56 upper for defense and training for the time being; 30-35 cents a round is gonna be easier on the wallet right now, as opposed to 50 cents for Blackout (although it has been holding). If things are desperate enough to get me to haul my pale ass out into the woods to hunt, then a few shots of 5.56 FMJ will be better than nothing. And it's a wash between .300 AAC and 5.56 anyway if I have to protect my family and/or our shit.

In general I'm torn between scrounging through Palmetto's diminishing stock of completed uppers or waiting for things to stabilize. The looming worry is that it won't stabilize though, so it's likely a better call to pay a slight premium now before things truly do get thin, rather than run the risk of inflated prices till the end of the year. Money is tight though, and we just spent a decent chunk on other supplies.

Maybe I'm just being paranoid, but I'd rather be prepared. I guess the smart thing is to decide whether $400 or a gun and a reasonable supply of ammo is going to serve us better in an emergency situation in the next few months. The crappy part is I think we're absolutely reaching the last week or so when that decision can still be made. By next month the same option for guns/ammo is going to be $600, then $1000 etc.
 
Tour of Italy said:
Maybe I'm just being paranoid, but I'd rather be prepared.
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heavy 5.56 / .223 (69 SMK or so) will also be good for white tail or other medium game.

ammunition has been on the cheap side of things for the last decade or more; compared to what it was (adjusted for inflation) in the 90's.

all kinds of places sell uppers, so unless you have some particular situation where this is short supply, the run is on TP and non perishable food, and even then, that's only a thing in urbanized areas.
 
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