Best potato for mashing? Starchy or waxy? Somewhere in between? These are the important questions.
Allow me to sperg: It depends on the purpose of the mash. For shepherd’s pie, cottage pie or fish pie, starchier gives the proper texture and better complements the rich base. You need a drier mash that will go crispy when you drag a fork across the top prior to baking for a nice, toasted uppermost layer.
But otherwise it’s hard for me to buy anything but yellow/gold varieties. They’re just so naturally creamy and since the best side dish (or, no shame, main event for solo suppers when the mood strikes) mash requires what is IMHO an obscene amount of added fat, that helps reduce it.
Speaking of mash, if you’re ever in Frogland, make a beeline for Café Georges, the stunning restaurant at the Pompidou Centre. For me, theirs is the very best and lives up to its French name: purée. Not even the memory of a lump remains, requiring a frankly tedious amount of work (made less so by use of a
tamis sieve). They use olive oil rather than (or, most likely, in addition to) butter and it’s such perfection that adding any of the accompaniments I usually enjoy, like caramelized onions or Gruyère, would distract from the experience. I found a pic that captures the dish exactly as I remember it:
And now I’m craving mashed potatoes at 4AM. Thanks, Obama!
I’m rarely motivated enough to make my own
potato millefeuille, but love to eat a slab of that.
Another favorite for this time of year is potato soup — though I actually prefer it with cauliflower added to the mix for a more interesting result. It’s easy and takes less less than 30 mins: steam cauliflower, cube potatoes and boil in stock until soft, then immersion blend it all together with a big spoonful of Maille or other good Dijon mustard and some minced garlic, plus lots of freshly cracked black pepper (compulsory). It won’t gild the lily if you add some grated cheddar or even cream. But it's also good with a bit of crème fraîche — even the lower fat version if you’re trying not to become a fat cunt.
The only pierogies I eat are potato with onion and cheddar, with caramelized onions and sour cream on the side. I dislike making dough, so I sometimes make what’s referred to as lazy day pierogies by baking alternating layers of cheesy mash and lasagna noodles. Aforementioned accoutrements are mandatory at my table.
It doesn’t sound like it would be anything special, but I’ve found that adding a layer of cubed yellow potatoes to quiche adds a really compelling texture and flavor. I often make this gluten-free, dairy-free version for a loved one who’s on a restricted diet and enjoy it as much as a normie quiche.
Dairy-Free, Gluten-Free Crustless Quiche
- 12 large eggs
- 1/2 cup gluten-free all-purpose flour (I use Arrowhead Mills All Purpose Organic Heritage Blend)
- 3.5 cups coconut or almond milk (unsweetened plain)
- 1/2 cup nutritional yeast
- 3 medium/large potatoes, peeled and diced (I prefer Yukon Gold - very creamy texture)
- Handfuls of spinach
- Sliced baby bella mushrooms
- Whatever vegetables, meat and herbs you want
- Salt, pepper and herbs to taste
Preheat the oven to 375F. Prepare a large, deep baking pan with oil/spray. (I use a gigantic one, 12.5x10.25, but a 9x13 would also work. Adjust baking times accordingly.)
In a large mixing bowl using, use an electric hand mixer to beat 1 egg until pale yellow and frothy. Add the flour and continue beating until well combined. Add the remaining eggs and beat for about three minutes, or until the mixture has increased in volume by a third and is very light and frothy. Gradually add the almond/coconut milk, nutritional yeast, salt and pepper, beating for two more minutes after everything has been added. Stir in any vegetables, meat, and/or herbs you want to use.
Spread the diced potatoes along the bottom of the prepared pan. Pour the egg mixture on top. Place the pan on a thick, heavy cookie sheet and put in the oven. Bake for 10 minutes. Then turn the temperature down to 325 and bake for a further 40+ minutes. You want the quiche to be firm but not dried out. When you take it out, let it cool for a few minutes and then cut into it to see if it's cooked through. If not, put it back in the oven until it's done. Then let it cool for 15-20 minutes or until set before serving.
In summer, I like to make a warm or cold potato salad by sousing boiled new potatoes with a mix of olive oil and lemon juice or white wine vinegar, then adding capers and fresh dill or chives, with a good bit of Maldon sea salt flakes and pepper.
I have a bag of baby golds on hand and am now seriously considering having them for breakfast, boiled and topped with fat and sour cream. I’m a growing boy, after all.