- Joined
- Apr 18, 2019
So the excess bolt gap(?) was what caused spontaneous disassembly?
I remember reading ramblings on just how Century screwed up their guns but rollers are esoteric enough that I don't commit the differences to memory.
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I remember reading ramblings on just how Century screwed up their guns but rollers are esoteric enough that I don't commit the differences to memory.
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2014
i'm back in the lab with snapcaps. it's the same problem with my friend's hellcat; i just plain suck with small pistols and need more practice. i've got a tyrant CNC metal trigger shoe on that makes the break feel more crisp but that slight jerk when it breaks is the hurdle.
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2016
for the CAI-built roller delay guns, it was completely random bolt gap because they had no idea how to select rollers. at HK (and POF and HA, and others) there are different roller sizes that are matched with the trunnion and bolt combo that a given rifle ends up with. good manufacturing processes put this +/- 0.001" and most if not all licensed or experienced manufacturers/builders will know how to gauge and correct the gap.
CAI didn't. they would have gaps too small to even properly lock up the rifle leading to some dangerous situations, and gaps so huge you had better luck throwing a bullet at something than having a reliable firing cycle. it also didn't help that they would mismatch locking pieces on the C93 specifically.
imported by CAI usually is okay, if CAI is paying someone who knows what they're doing to do the work and are just marketing/importing parts/accessories, then that's okay too. the CAI-3 is an example of that. the CA-3 is basically the same except instead of Todd doing the work, the people at
use a little soap on your trigger finger and ensure you're squeezing the trigger with the pad rather than using the finger joint. also for small guns see if the "jerk" you perceive only happens at specific wrist angles or when held at a given distance from the body. anticipation and nerves can be weird with how you have to hold your hand in position especially if the gun is pressing on the palm in different ways than what you're used to.
the soap adds a bit of slip to encourage you not to over-squeeze or be cock-eyed at the trigger vs pressing it straight back. too much or too little and you'll feel it.
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2014
the virgin discord nigger vs. the chad oldfag
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2023
6 inches of Colt sexiness vs a budget Glock clone. Hmmm I wonder which one will have better accuracy.
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2014
thank god he was there to save me. we're fucking blessed with the mirth. i shouldn't get good with a nigger gun, i need to buy the gun that was in half life.
EggImpregnator
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2020
If its a micro dagger youre going to be severely limited on what red dots you can put on it.
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2023
Yes. That's why you need a Python, an Mp7 and a USP Match. Oh and a Spas 12 that can shoot out of an invisible second barrel.
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2014
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2023
@Club Sandwich Thanks for all the insider info, passed it along to my friend.
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2016
np, but i didn't say PTR was perfect and gtg - they know what they are doing and if CAI is supplying quality parts (and they tend to) then PTR should be able to assemble a decent roller-delay rifle. and the few problems i've seen on PTR builds were fairly easy to correct - a big part of that is they are using the correct tools and plans for assembly and fabrication barring any cost reductions or factory modification (welded on optic rail, in-house made flash hider, US-made barrel, et c). about the only thing that might be iffy is, as mentioned above, the rollers themselves. they are matched to the trunnion/barrel/locking piece/receiver/barrel combo.
check the bolt gap by:
1. clear and safety the weapon, visually and physically confirm it's empty and remove any live ammunition from the immediate area.
2. allow the cocking lever and bolt carrier group to go fully forward and the rollers lock into place. you can "slap" the cocking handle downward if you like, it doesn't hurt anything if done sparingly.
3. refer to the picture to locate the bolt gap. this is a gap between the rear of the bolt head, and the front of the bolt carrier. this gap is functionally the "headspace" for roller-delay rifles.
3a. when viewed through the magazine well, you will see this:
3b. this represents the most forward position of the bolt head and the seating depth of the bolt into the trunnion - with the corresponding rollers against the angled shoulder of the locking piece and the recesses in the trunnion.
4. with a feeler gauge, insert it in this gap. start with 0.010" and move up from there. when you encounter resistance, back off one gauge, record that gauge's thickness (for example 0.014"), then repeat steps 1, 2, and 4.
5. if the number is consistent this is the "bolt gap". it should fall between 0.010" through 0.018".
5a. the larger the gap, the "less wear" there is, or more precisely, the less the locking piece is pushing on the rollers. either the rollers are over-sized, the wrong locking piece is used, or the rifle is extremely new. 0.020" is the upper end of this for a brand new rifle that has never been shot and is "tight". expect harder recoil and inconsistent ejection/extraction for about a hundred rounds or so.
5b. the smaller the gap, the "more wear" there is, or more precisely, the more the locking piece has to enter the trunnion to seat the rollers. this can mean the rollers are under-sized, the recesses in the trunnion are bulged (flat spots on receiver), or the wrong locking piece is used. a gap under 0.008" is marginal and can have hard ejection, excessive BCG velocity, rim tears, et c. a gap under 0.004" should not be fired as this implies excessive wear or insufficient delay resulting in possible damage to the receiver or bolt carrier or barrel. it is very difficult to have an out of battery detonation with roller-delay but it is possible with a very small or nonexistent gap and not allowing the bolt to fully seat forward.
5c. locking piece and roller size is functionally what determines "lock up" and "headspace". it is tuned to specific ammunition characteristics, barrel length, suppressed or not, the stock being used (buffer type, et c) and so forth. the G3 and clones are the most forgiving (and has the widest parts availability and are the easiest to work on imho) with the HK33 and MP5K's being much more finicky.
6. it is a pain to swap rollers but doable if you are mechanically inclined and can follow instructions precisely with some hand tools. it's not intended for field maintenance but is an armorer-level repair typically. if gap does not meet specification after going up or down 2 roller sizes (+/- 0.004") then the rifle is generally considered unsafe to use. extended roller sizes do exist, however these should be used with caution and is a band-aid on a problem. the best situation for an out-of-spec G3 is having one that is on the high side like 0.026" or something and coming down on roller size -0.006" to be barely within spec. as the rifle is shot it will "wear in" and normal rollers can be swapped in later in its life. using very over-sized rollers in a very worn rifle is very not advised.
1. clear and safety the weapon, visually and physically confirm it's empty and remove any live ammunition from the immediate area.
2. allow the cocking lever and bolt carrier group to go fully forward and the rollers lock into place. you can "slap" the cocking handle downward if you like, it doesn't hurt anything if done sparingly.
3. refer to the picture to locate the bolt gap. this is a gap between the rear of the bolt head, and the front of the bolt carrier. this gap is functionally the "headspace" for roller-delay rifles.
3a. when viewed through the magazine well, you will see this:
3b. this represents the most forward position of the bolt head and the seating depth of the bolt into the trunnion - with the corresponding rollers against the angled shoulder of the locking piece and the recesses in the trunnion.
4. with a feeler gauge, insert it in this gap. start with 0.010" and move up from there. when you encounter resistance, back off one gauge, record that gauge's thickness (for example 0.014"), then repeat steps 1, 2, and 4.
5. if the number is consistent this is the "bolt gap". it should fall between 0.010" through 0.018".
5a. the larger the gap, the "less wear" there is, or more precisely, the less the locking piece is pushing on the rollers. either the rollers are over-sized, the wrong locking piece is used, or the rifle is extremely new. 0.020" is the upper end of this for a brand new rifle that has never been shot and is "tight". expect harder recoil and inconsistent ejection/extraction for about a hundred rounds or so.
5b. the smaller the gap, the "more wear" there is, or more precisely, the more the locking piece has to enter the trunnion to seat the rollers. this can mean the rollers are under-sized, the recesses in the trunnion are bulged (flat spots on receiver), or the wrong locking piece is used. a gap under 0.008" is marginal and can have hard ejection, excessive BCG velocity, rim tears, et c. a gap under 0.004" should not be fired as this implies excessive wear or insufficient delay resulting in possible damage to the receiver or bolt carrier or barrel. it is very difficult to have an out of battery detonation with roller-delay but it is possible with a very small or nonexistent gap and not allowing the bolt to fully seat forward.
5c. locking piece and roller size is functionally what determines "lock up" and "headspace". it is tuned to specific ammunition characteristics, barrel length, suppressed or not, the stock being used (buffer type, et c) and so forth. the G3 and clones are the most forgiving (and has the widest parts availability and are the easiest to work on imho) with the HK33 and MP5K's being much more finicky.
6. it is a pain to swap rollers but doable if you are mechanically inclined and can follow instructions precisely with some hand tools. it's not intended for field maintenance but is an armorer-level repair typically. if gap does not meet specification after going up or down 2 roller sizes (+/- 0.004") then the rifle is generally considered unsafe to use. extended roller sizes do exist, however these should be used with caution and is a band-aid on a problem. the best situation for an out-of-spec G3 is having one that is on the high side like 0.026" or something and coming down on roller size -0.006" to be barely within spec. as the rifle is shot it will "wear in" and normal rollers can be swapped in later in its life. using very over-sized rollers in a very worn rifle is very not advised.
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Pretend To Imagine
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2024
It takes a lot of work to get good with a red dot especially if you have a lot of time on irons. I had about 20 years of shooting irons before I tried dots on pistols, and I went back and forth a couple times before I embraced the dot.
Small pistols just plain suck to shoot. Is there no way for you to carry a Glock 19 sized gun?
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2022
I did this too after getting my 43x and it was legit discouraging. I'm a pretty solid shot with a larger pistol but figuring out the angle and snap on a subcompact was a pain in the ass, it felt like I was learning to shoot all over again.
I'm probably not doing it right at all but I found that getting as high up on the grip as possible and squeezing the absolute shit out of my grip hand with my offhand helps me control my groupings a little better.
Do you like the dagger micro though? I've been eyeing one to potentially throw in my 9mm rig as a dedicated sidearm but I'm kinda leaning toward the standard dagger just for part compatibility
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2022
I want to buy a few 40 round AR mags even though I don't have a AR yet. Both to prepare to have one, that and they're cool shit. Want some steel 20 rounders too, I find them neat and cool looking, straight with the angled bottom.
Personally probably going to get a PSA for a first AR. Low cost, generally works, 20 inch M16A2 clone doesn't cost much, which is what I want.
Me because I only have 3 guns, I only have to worry about 3 calibers lol. 7.62x39mm, .38 Special, and .300 Win Mag. Got big stockpiles of each. I do plan on adding more types, in part because I remember the 2020 shortage, kinda the opposite of you. Probably a 40 cal, 12 gauge, 5.56, and 9mm in the immediate future.
Got one of those in 5.56 for my brother once. Chunky monsters, but cool.
Personally want one for a future AR, for dakka of course.
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2019
I'm looking at picking up a new pistol gat. Basically my issue is that what I really want is a modernized Hi-Power with a threaded barrel and optic cut but making that would be like $1500 in custom work so looking at other stuff since doing that to a non-clapped out Hi-Power would be like $2500~3000 for the gun and work. I'm aware Girsan makes an optic ready Hi-Power clone but I refuse to buy any turkish pistol.
So basically my requirements are: optic cut, threaded barrel, grip close to the Hi-Power, pic rail, and single action trigger.
I mainly just shoot at the range but might wanna do some competition stuff with it and my budget is gonna be about $3K for gun+optic. I'm never really concerned with what the compeition meta is, I just like shooting guns that I like.
So the obvious choice would be something like a CZ SP-01 or P-01 since the grip is similar to the Hi-Power, which fits my hand really well. Then I'd get em cajunized, SAO trigger, optic cut. I know about the Shadow models but they seem a bit heavy. Might see if my local big gun store has a one I can try out.
Looked at Staccatos too since picking up a used one could fit my budget and there's usually a few for sale by me. Think the P or C2 would fit my requirements but I'd wanna see if there's somewhere by me that stocks at least one 2011 so I could get a feel for the grip first.
Also saw the DWX compact which is basically the same size as a Hi-Power, has the CZ grip, 1911 style trigger, and is optic ready. Maybe a bit hard to find but the issue with that is no threaded barrels so far. So really close, but I do wanna be able to run it suppressed.
So we'll see, obviously don't wanna rush into it.
So basically my requirements are: optic cut, threaded barrel, grip close to the Hi-Power, pic rail, and single action trigger.
I mainly just shoot at the range but might wanna do some competition stuff with it and my budget is gonna be about $3K for gun+optic. I'm never really concerned with what the compeition meta is, I just like shooting guns that I like.
So the obvious choice would be something like a CZ SP-01 or P-01 since the grip is similar to the Hi-Power, which fits my hand really well. Then I'd get em cajunized, SAO trigger, optic cut. I know about the Shadow models but they seem a bit heavy. Might see if my local big gun store has a one I can try out.
Looked at Staccatos too since picking up a used one could fit my budget and there's usually a few for sale by me. Think the P or C2 would fit my requirements but I'd wanna see if there's somewhere by me that stocks at least one 2011 so I could get a feel for the grip first.
Also saw the DWX compact which is basically the same size as a Hi-Power, has the CZ grip, 1911 style trigger, and is optic ready. Maybe a bit hard to find but the issue with that is no threaded barrels so far. So really close, but I do wanna be able to run it suppressed.
So we'll see, obviously don't wanna rush into it.
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Akran
kiwifarms.net
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2019
I now have my semi auto MG42 running reliably. I started getting light strikes with ammo that had no issues previously. I knew it wasn't the firing pin because it's all new with BRP internals. When I originally built it I robbed a hammer spring from a DB15, so I figured that was my weakest link. Bought a AR10 30% extra power hammer spring and it ran flawlessly 90 rounds of romanian steel ammo, 5 rounds of yugo had some light strikes but yugo is picky with semi autos anyways. Now all I have to fix is the barrel gate latch being somewhat loose due to its spring.
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2021
I feel like I can’t find a cheap quad rail for my M&P Sport 2. Like a few years ago you could find one anywhere and now they are gone.
Even for my older shit I can find parts and kits for like nothing.
Even for my older shit I can find parts and kits for like nothing.
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2022
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2023
Some finds from SoF:
This is retarded but also awesome.
Has armed burglar in his sights with M1 carbine, runs up and kicks the guy in the face like some Jackie Chan bs instead of just shooting him, burglar is using a .44 magnum for some reason, and burglar yells out a line that you’d hear from a stereotypical criminal in a movie (if I was a burglar I’d probably be too freaked out to say anything if an armed homeowner was 10 feet in front of me). Yeah this story is totally believable and isn’t just creative fiction from some mall ninja sped.
This is retarded but also awesome.
Has armed burglar in his sights with M1 carbine, runs up and kicks the guy in the face like some Jackie Chan bs instead of just shooting him, burglar is using a .44 magnum for some reason, and burglar yells out a line that you’d hear from a stereotypical criminal in a movie (if I was a burglar I’d probably be too freaked out to say anything if an armed homeowner was 10 feet in front of me). Yeah this story is totally believable and isn’t just creative fiction from some mall ninja sped.
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2019
I have a spiritus micro rig I keep by my rifle (and helmet with ear pro and nods) I can grab and throw it on like a satchel (not a purse) for my rifle. I’m not expecting to toss on a PC in time but it’s got extra ammo for rifle and pistol and medical. Not like it matters much because I have a ifak in just about every room of the apartment.