Mega Rad Gun Thread

[Preacher ✝]

micro dagger

Get a real gun.

 

[POWER IN MISERY]

Get a red dot on it. Preferably a holosun EPS carry.

i've been considering either an optic or an XS big dot and i think the holosun is gonna be the one eventually. i really like the 507 on my dad's pistol. if they weren't for a leupold footprint i would check out eotech's EFLX since they seem pretty robust.

 

[Pretend To Imagine]

i shot like SHIT today and kept hitting low and left with the micro dagger. i'm frustrated confused sad and i'm still using all my brain to figure out how to hold the tiny gun right like eight hours later. i'm not normally like this, i swear...

Do some dry fire and see how much the gun moves when you’re pulling the trigger.

 

[Club Sandwich]

Any one here have any experience with Century in house builds? Got a buddy who has a serious hard on for the PTR, and these came in at a decent price:
https://atlanticfirearms.com/century-arms-ca3-rifle

they are rebadged PTR with surplus furniture and new barrel sourced by CAI. PTR handles the metal work and most of the assembly, CAI handles packaging, accessories, and bookkeeping.

Back in the day wasn't it a meme Century G3 engineers didn't know what "head-space" meant when applied to firearms?

The C93 fiasco and even CETMEs still floating around with poor headspace should be enough of a deterrent and encouragement to save up for a PTR.

roller delay systems have no headspace gauge. bolt gap replaces headspace as the rollers must be allowed to freely roll against the trunnion recesses and locking piece to moderate BCG velocity and timing. there is no feature in a G3 (or derived) chamber that has a critical dimension that limits cartridge insertion like a shoulder or something. this is because the barrel mandrel used has a soft shoulder and ream for the flutes to provide gas blow-by, making any headspace rather pointless. notice in the cut away that it is the bolt gap that determines how "closed" the rollers are in relation to the recess in the trunnion. not the barrel, not the receiver.

in many other locked breech firearms, headspace is gauged by the cartridge in some way (shoulder, rim, belt, mouth, et c) and a feature of the barrel itself because the bolt is locked into recesses in the barrel, and this critical dimension is required for safe locking to prevent out of battery detonation. for the example below, a Mauser action, the datum line (the center circumference of in front of the shoulder of the cartridge) combined with the leade of the bore will determine headspace. if there is too little headspace, the cartridge will not seat to the correct depth and the bolt may no fully close, which in turn can lead to a weak lock up of the action, which is a safety risk. too much headspace (erosion, bad cut, et c) and the cartridge can be too deep, which can result in ruptured cases, case head separation, light strikes from the FP, and other malfunctions.

 

[Neo-Nazi Rich Evans]

a couple posts back i mentioned i was thinking of removing the red dot on my p365. i did so after that post. it was one of the guns i took with me to the range and ive decided that i definitely prefer to shoot it with irons.

i also found i dont care for sellier & bellot ammo. never shot much of it before, but today i went through about 150 rounds of it. it shot roughly an inch and half low from where most other ammo shoots in my gun and it was incredibly dirty. it was literally flinging soot with each shot. my gun is more filthy from it that it has every been.

 

[WhoBusTank69]

bolt gap replaces headspace as the rollers must be allowed to freely roll against the trunnion recesses and locking piece to moderate BCG velocity and timing

So the excess bolt gap(?) was what caused spontaneous disassembly?
I remember reading ramblings on just how Century screwed up their guns but rollers are esoteric enough that I don't commit the differences to memory.

 

[POWER IN MISERY]

Do some dry fire and see how much the gun moves when you’re pulling the trigger.

i'm back in the lab with snapcaps. it's the same problem with my friend's hellcat; i just plain suck with small pistols and need more practice. i've got a tyrant CNC metal trigger shoe on that makes the break feel more crisp but that slight jerk when it breaks is the hurdle.

 

[Club Sandwich]

So the excess bolt gap(?) was what caused spontaneous disassembly?

for the CAI-built roller delay guns, it was completely random bolt gap because they had no idea how to select rollers. at HK (and POF and HA, and others) there are different roller sizes that are matched with the trunnion and bolt combo that a given rifle ends up with. good manufacturing processes put this +/- 0.001" and most if not all licensed or experienced manufacturers/builders will know how to gauge and correct the gap.
CAI didn't. they would have gaps too small to even properly lock up the rifle leading to some dangerous situations, and gaps so huge you had better luck throwing a bullet at something than having a reliable firing cycle. it also didn't help that they would mismatch locking pieces on the C93 specifically.

imported by CAI usually is okay, if CAI is paying someone who knows what they're doing to do the work and are just marketing/importing parts/accessories, then that's okay too. the CAI-3 is an example of that. the CA-3 is basically the same except instead of Todd doing the work, the people at JLD PTR are doing it. CAI aren't the only ones that made screwed up roller delay guns because they're idiots. Special Weapons did too, although at least you could buy a Special Weapons receiver and get something decent. CAI-built receivers it's a crap shoot if they're bending the flats properly. CAI imported receivers are made by actual manufacturers typically (CAI-imported metric FAL receivers made by IMBEL for example). CAI built it's a hard pass unless i can put hands on the gun for inspection or i know it wasn't built by them and just imported.

i've got a tyrant CNC metal trigger shoe on that makes the break feel more crisp but that slight jerk when it breaks is the hurdle.

use a little soap on your trigger finger and ensure you're squeezing the trigger with the pad rather than using the finger joint. also for small guns see if the "jerk" you perceive only happens at specific wrist angles or when held at a given distance from the body. anticipation and nerves can be weird with how you have to hold your hand in position especially if the gun is pressing on the palm in different ways than what you're used to.

the soap adds a bit of slip to encourage you not to over-squeeze or be cock-eyed at the trigger vs pressing it straight back. too much or too little and you'll feel it.

 

[POWER IN MISERY]

Get a real gun.
View attachment 6297961

use a little soap on your trigger finger and ensure you're squeezing the trigger with the pad rather than using the finger joint. also for small guns see if the "jerk" you perceive only happens at specific wrist angles or when held at a given distance from the body. anticipation and nerves can be weird with how you have to hold your hand in position especially if the gun is pressing on the palm in different ways than what you're used to.

the soap adds a bit of slip to encourage you not to over-squeeze or be cock-eyed at the trigger vs pressing it straight back. too much or too little and you'll feel it.

the virgin discord nigger vs. the chad oldfag

 

[Ravier Xavenblood]

Get a real gun.
View attachment 6297961

6 inches of Colt sexiness vs a budget Glock clone. Hmmm I wonder which one will have better accuracy.

 

[POWER IN MISERY]

6 inches of Colt sexiness vs a budget Glock clone. Hmmm I wonder which one will have better accuracy.

thank god he was there to save me. we're fucking blessed with the mirth. i shouldn't get good with a nigger gun, i need to buy the gun that was in half life.

 

[EggImpregnator]

i've been considering either an optic or an XS big dot and i think the holosun is gonna be the one eventually. i really like the 507 on my dad's pistol. if they weren't for a leupold footprint i would check out eotech's EFLX since they seem pretty robust.

If its a micro dagger youre going to be severely limited on what red dots you can put on it.

 

[Ravier Xavenblood]

thank god he was there to save me. we're fucking blessed with the mirth. i shouldn't get good with a nigger gun, i need to buy the gun that was in half life.

Yes. That's why you need a Python, an Mp7 and a USP Match. Oh and a Spas 12 that can shoot out of an invisible second barrel.

 

[POWER IN MISERY]

Yes. That's why you need a Python, an Mp7 and a USP Match. Oh and a Spas 12 that can shoot out of an invisible second barrel.

 

[VorpalAnvil-]

@Club Sandwich Thanks for all the insider info, passed it along to my friend.

 

[Club Sandwich]

@Club Sandwich Thanks for all the insider info, passed it along to my friend.

np, but i didn't say PTR was perfect and gtg - they know what they are doing and if CAI is supplying quality parts (and they tend to) then PTR should be able to assemble a decent roller-delay rifle. and the few problems i've seen on PTR builds were fairly easy to correct - a big part of that is they are using the correct tools and plans for assembly and fabrication barring any cost reductions or factory modification (welded on optic rail, in-house made flash hider, US-made barrel, et c). about the only thing that might be iffy is, as mentioned above, the rollers themselves. they are matched to the trunnion/barrel/locking piece/receiver/barrel combo.

Spoiler: bolt gap procedures

check the bolt gap by:
1. clear and safety the weapon, visually and physically confirm it's empty and remove any live ammunition from the immediate area.
2. allow the cocking lever and bolt carrier group to go fully forward and the rollers lock into place. you can "slap" the cocking handle downward if you like, it doesn't hurt anything if done sparingly.
3. refer to the picture to locate the bolt gap. this is a gap between the rear of the bolt head, and the front of the bolt carrier. this gap is functionally the "headspace" for roller-delay rifles.
3a. when viewed through the magazine well, you will see this:

3b. this represents the most forward position of the bolt head and the seating depth of the bolt into the trunnion - with the corresponding rollers against the angled shoulder of the locking piece and the recesses in the trunnion.
4. with a feeler gauge, insert it in this gap. start with 0.010" and move up from there. when you encounter resistance, back off one gauge, record that gauge's thickness (for example 0.014"), then repeat steps 1, 2, and 4.
5. if the number is consistent this is the "bolt gap". it should fall between 0.010" through 0.018".
5a. the larger the gap, the "less wear" there is, or more precisely, the less the locking piece is pushing on the rollers. either the rollers are over-sized, the wrong locking piece is used, or the rifle is extremely new. 0.020" is the upper end of this for a brand new rifle that has never been shot and is "tight". expect harder recoil and inconsistent ejection/extraction for about a hundred rounds or so.
5b. the smaller the gap, the "more wear" there is, or more precisely, the more the locking piece has to enter the trunnion to seat the rollers. this can mean the rollers are under-sized, the recesses in the trunnion are bulged (flat spots on receiver), or the wrong locking piece is used. a gap under 0.008" is marginal and can have hard ejection, excessive BCG velocity, rim tears, et c. a gap under 0.004" should not be fired as this implies excessive wear or insufficient delay resulting in possible damage to the receiver or bolt carrier or barrel. it is very difficult to have an out of battery detonation with roller-delay but it is possible with a very small or nonexistent gap and not allowing the bolt to fully seat forward.
5c. locking piece and roller size is functionally what determines "lock up" and "headspace". it is tuned to specific ammunition characteristics, barrel length, suppressed or not, the stock being used (buffer type, et c) and so forth. the G3 and clones are the most forgiving (and has the widest parts availability and are the easiest to work on imho) with the HK33 and MP5K's being much more finicky.
6. it is a pain to swap rollers but doable if you are mechanically inclined and can follow instructions precisely with some hand tools. it's not intended for field maintenance but is an armorer-level repair typically. if gap does not meet specification after going up or down 2 roller sizes (+/- 0.004") then the rifle is generally considered unsafe to use. extended roller sizes do exist, however these should be used with caution and is a band-aid on a problem. the best situation for an out-of-spec G3 is having one that is on the high side like 0.026" or something and coming down on roller size -0.006" to be barely within spec. as the rifle is shot it will "wear in" and normal rollers can be swapped in later in its life. using very over-sized rollers in a very worn rifle is very not advised.

 

[Pretend To Imagine]

a couple posts back i mentioned i was thinking of removing the red dot on my p365. i did so after that post. it was one of the guns i took with me to the range and ive decided that i definitely prefer to shoot it with irons.

It takes a lot of work to get good with a red dot especially if you have a lot of time on irons. I had about 20 years of shooting irons before I tried dots on pistols, and I went back and forth a couple times before I embraced the dot.

 

[Pretend To Imagine]

i'm back in the lab with snapcaps. it's the same problem with my friend's hellcat; i just plain suck with small pistols and need more practice. i've got a tyrant CNC metal trigger shoe on that makes the break feel more crisp but that slight jerk when it breaks is the hurdle.

Small pistols just plain suck to shoot. Is there no way for you to carry a Glock 19 sized gun?

 

[Fear&LoathinginMcDonalds]

i shot like SHIT today and kept hitting low and left with the micro dagger. i'm frustrated confused sad and i'm still using all my brain to figure out how to hold the tiny gun right like eight hours later. i'm not normally like this, i swear...

I did this too after getting my 43x and it was legit discouraging. I'm a pretty solid shot with a larger pistol but figuring out the angle and snap on a subcompact was a pain in the ass, it felt like I was learning to shoot all over again.

I'm probably not doing it right at all but I found that getting as high up on the grip as possible and squeezing the absolute shit out of my grip hand with my offhand helps me control my groupings a little better.

Do you like the dagger micro though? I've been eyeing one to potentially throw in my 9mm rig as a dedicated sidearm but I'm kinda leaning toward the standard dagger just for part compatibility

 

[WelperHelper99]

I actually wish 40 round magazines went on sale more often.
I think they are great as the first mag in.
I'd like to have a few more.

I want to buy a few 40 round AR mags even though I don't have a AR yet. Both to prepare to have one, that and they're cool shit. Want some steel 20 rounders too, I find them neat and cool looking, straight with the angled bottom.

That is poorfag cope. The guys who can afford a $2000+ rifle can also afford $1500 LPVOs and more ammo than they can shoot. You might have to make a choice between buying a gun and going to the range but they don't.

If you can't afford the ultra-high end guns, just get a PSA because it's just as good for 99% of civilian shooters.

Personally probably going to get a PSA for a first AR. Low cost, generally works, 20 inch M16A2 clone doesn't cost much, which is what I want.

I’m currently consolidating down to just four calibers: 5.56, 9mm, 12 gauge, and .22lr.

It’s just too much to stockpile a billion different calibers. Those four above cover every realistic need I have.

Me because I only have 3 guns, I only have to worry about 3 calibers lol. 7.62x39mm, .38 Special, and .300 Win Mag. Got big stockpiles of each. I do plan on adding more types, in part because I remember the 2020 shortage, kinda the opposite of you. Probably a 40 cal, 12 gauge, 5.56, and 9mm in the immediate future.

The closest I have are the 60rd Schmeisser mags for my AK. Same effect without having to switch them half way.

Got one of those in 5.56 for my brother once. Chunky monsters, but cool.

Personally want one for a future AR, for dakka of course.