HVAC/R and Air Conditioning - Why survive SHTF if it gets hot

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That’s almost as funny as when people try to steal live electrical equipment.
Those videos of Africans emanating smoke after trying to steal copper from a supply box or whatever it's called are a hoot. Never understood why they do it when you can just find the nearest construction site and go dumpster diving. Plumbers and electricians will toss insane amounts of copper. Just from picking the scraps of stuff that got smushed by scissor lifts I probably have enough to make a couple decent sized ingots.
 
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Those videos of Africans emanating smoke after trying to steal copper from a supply box or whatever it's called are a hoot. Never understood why they do it when you can just find the nearest construction site and go dumpster diving. Plumbers and electricians will toss insane amounts of copper. Just from picking the scraps of stuff that got smushed by scissor lifts I probably have enough to make a couple decent sized ingots.
At a company I used to work for, the installers would throw away brand new copper leftover from the day. I’m talking 25 foot long rolls of 3/8 and 7/8
 
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After hours compressors and condenser fan swap. Glad I’m billing for it and not paying for it.
 
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I need to share my frustrations with myself with jumping from residential to refrigeration. For the life of me I just fail to understand small self contained units like Kairak glycol units or basic prep tables. I just do not have the experience to figure out what is going on with these pieces of shit. I understand how racks work for the most part, I sort of understand controls but not a whole lot. I have a Kairak KBP-70S that I'm about to go to now where they say the rail is temping high but the cabinet isn't? I changed the glycol pump last week becasue it wasn't moving any glycol at all.
 
I need to share my frustrations with myself with jumping from residential to refrigeration. For the life of me I just fail to understand small self contained units like Kairak glycol units or basic prep tables. I just do not have the experience to figure out what is going on with these pieces of shit. I understand how racks work for the most part, I sort of understand controls but not a whole lot. I have a Kairak KBP-70S that I'm about to go to now where they say the rail is temping high but the cabinet isn't? I changed the glycol pump last week becasue it wasn't moving any glycol at all.
And they're not putting hot food in the rail? Glycol loop is probably goofed.
 
And they're not putting hot food in the rail? Glycol loop is probably goofed.
No hot food. I spent an hour and a half with this thing running and after the first hour I saw that the TXV begin to freeze through the insulation. I put the bulb in a cup of hot water and it didn’t open. Power head is fucked. Been on call for the last 14 hours and I had 4 freezers take a shit. I’m on 3 of 4 fixed currently. There’s just something with me trying to wrap myself around a self contained unit. My brain draws a blank. Even with Follett ice machines.
 
No hot food. I spent an hour and a half with this thing running and after the first hour I saw that the TXV begin to freeze through the insulation. I put the bulb in a cup of hot water and it didn’t open. Power head is fucked. Been on call for the last 14 hours and I had 4 freezers take a shit. I’m on 3 of 4 fixed currently. There’s just something with me trying to wrap myself around a self contained unit. My brain draws a blank. Even with Follett ice machines.
Self contained unit simply have all the components right there for you for easy access. I don’t know how to make that easier for you. But you should definitely check out the advanced refrigeration podcast. They have a lot of good information on there and if they don’t have what you’re looking for you can request an episode.
 
I need to share my frustrations with myself with jumping from residential to refrigeration. For the life of me I just fail to understand small self contained units like Kairak glycol units or basic prep tables. I just do not have the experience to figure out what is going on with these pieces of shit. I understand how racks work for the most part, I sort of understand controls but not a whole lot. I have a Kairak KBP-70S that I'm about to go to now where they say the rail is temping high but the cabinet isn't? I changed the glycol pump last week becasue it wasn't moving any glycol at all.
Everything leaks. Stuff in kitchen leaks even more. Vinegar and salt just eat thru evaps and loves to ruin power heads. Both are probably dead.
These units have barely enough cooling to cool bottom compartment and top food rail and if one of those TXV starts pissing thru, the other will temp high while compressor is sucking on liquid refrigerant.
Top food rail should also be covered which no one does as well as all food inside should be covered with plastic foil or put in covered bins.

Food industry is honestly a nightmare.
 
Are HVAC companies still quoting retarded installation costs for mini-split installs? I was wondering because in the rest of the world you just buy what you need and either put it in yourself or ask the super to hire some handyman to put it in for like $100. Meanwhile guys in America were quoting absurd costs for a system.
 
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1999 Trane chiller with 100 ton screw compressors. Wye Delta motor starter. Impressive that this thing still runs.
I have a water-cooled, 90-ton Trane chiller with 2 screw compressors from the late 1990s that I have been maintaining for many years. Near as I can tell, it has been run every summer for about 30 years, long before it came into my possession, but over the past 2 years, it has developed noticeable leaks in some of the condenser tubes of one compressor (Trane doesn't make any condenser replacement parts any more), and my go-to contractor can't figure out a way to rebuild it in his shop.

Over the years, I have replaced many of the Trane's contactors with refurbished and new old stock I bought on eBay (because nobody makes them anymore, and even the secondhand surplus is drying up), and last year replaced one compressor's leaky expansion valve with a janky non-OEM because Trane doesn't make the valves any more either. I've replaced the starter and rebuilt the condenser and chilled water pumps more times than I care to remember.

The various leaks over the years have reduced me to the last few pounds of my stockpiled R-22 reserve (I bought a couple tanks before the phase-out and bartered and bought some recovered R-22 over the past few years). After this summer, I won't have any more left.

I'm thinking it might be time to give up and acquire a new chiller after this summer, even though the screw-compressors are still running like champs.

I heard you can run an eddy-current test to identify the leaky tubes and use stoppers to plug up a certain number of leaky tubes up until a certain point without severely impacting the efficiency of the system, but I have a gut feeling that more of the tubes are going to start leaking soon, and besides, the non-OEM expansion valve requires daily resetting and adjustment since it cannot automatically communicate with Trane's OEM controller. I don't know if I can endure many more years of manually resetting and adjusting the expansion valve every morning, every day, for the rest of the chiller's life.

For replacement, I was thinking to go with an air-cooled chiller setup this time, to increase redundancy. One of the most aggravating issues with water-cooled is all the potential failure points in the many components on the cooling tower side. The condenser pump seal and shaft and bearings, the pump motor and their coupling, the starters and overload relays and breakers for condenser and cooling tower fan motors, the cooling tower gearbox, the water treatment for an open-loop cooling tower. It just goes on and on. If any one of the water-side components fails, the whole system is completely down and it will often take me days to get everything back up and running, despite the ever growing stockpile of motors, starters, couplings, pump seals, etc that I try to keep on hand.

There is so little redundancy in the water-cooled system.

I know air-cooled will use more electricity, but I'm ok with it as long as I can get more redundancy in exchange. I'm thinking a 100-ton chiller, or maybe 2x 50-ton chillers. Although I've gotten mixed responses from other HVAC guys I talk to, about whether it's actually more redundant or not to have 2 chillers instead of 1 with more compressors.

I figure I also want maximum redundancy since everything seems to be scroll-compressors these days, and even if they still make screw-compressor chillers, I probably couldn't afford it. I don't have any prior experience with scroll-compressors, but I doubt they last as long and I'm thinking it'd be better to be in a situation where I can still run with 1 compressor down whlie waiting for replacement to come in.

My other unreliable backup option is to keep trawling my local HVAC surplus dealers' inventory for the perfect surplus new or barely-used replacement chiller, whether that's air-cooled or water-cooled. They don't have anything good right now, but I heard other guys having great experiences with surplus new chillers when they are lucky enough to find something that is a perfect fit for their setup. I've been looking for almost a year now, and still haven't found anything that's just right (ie, anything compatible that hasn't already got 20+ years of running time on its compressors)

I also had a good firsthand experience with surplus, but that was on the cooling tower side - I got a giant all-stainless steel tower for cheap during the pandemic lockdown, which I can resell for good value back to a surplus dealer anytime, or even get the purchase price back in the scrap metal value. Even the most minor components of the tower are stainless steel, like the bracing cables, bolts, hot water deck's cover plates, etc.

I also talked to some of the faculty at a local technical college who are big shills for mini-split, but I'm thinking that would be a lot of units to match the original 90-ton capacity, and they would want to tear up 2 good roofs and 2 concrete floor slabs, plus the better part of 60 000+ sq ft of ceiling mechanical space to gut the old ducting and air handlers and install the piping and new ducting/cassettes.

What you guys think? I could use some second opinions, as I never went to school for HVAC and have zero new-install experience, and my friends and go-to contractors who did go to school are very unimaginative and tend to overlook basic stuff unless I'm there to check their work.
 
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Are HVAC companies still quoting retarded installation costs for mini-split installs? I was wondering because in the rest of the world you just buy what you need and either put it in yourself or ask the super to hire some handyman to put it in for like $100. Meanwhile guys in America were quoting absurd costs for a system.
You're paying for the warranty. Also, mini splits are the hip trendy thing for specialized tasks here, so you're paying the hipster tax.

There’s just something with me trying to wrap myself around a self contained unit.
Thats how I feel with anything to do with heating. Boilers? Can't wrap my mind around them. I've probably huffed too much ammonia to even begin to comprehend how they work.
 
Everything leaks. Stuff in kitchen leaks even more. Vinegar and salt just eat thru evaps and loves to ruin power heads. Both are probably dead.
These units have barely enough cooling to cool bottom compartment and top food rail and if one of those TXV starts pissing thru, the other will temp high while compressor is sucking on liquid refrigerant.
Top food rail should also be covered which no one does as well as all food inside should be covered with plastic foil or put in covered bins.

Food industry is honestly a nightmare.
The customer is a noteworthy chain of convenience stores and they have the best conditions for kitchen equipment in stores, the kitchen itself is cleaned 3 times daily and the entire store will be 68°F.

The employees are certified retards because they never close top rail lids or ice machine doors. They also love checking temperatures with no product inside of whatever the appliance is.
You're paying for the warranty. Also, mini splits are the hip trendy thing for specialized tasks here, so you're paying the hipster tax.


Thats how I feel with anything to do with heating. Boilers? Can't wrap my mind around them. I've probably huffed too much ammonia to even begin to comprehend how they work.
I was forced to start learning because I was fired from my last company back in September and I was hired on the spot at my current company. I’m slowly getting better with freezers and walk ins, ice machines and prep tables are still iffy. Throw me in front of a wood, gas or oil boiler and I can rip them apart and put them back together.
 
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What you guys think? I could use some second opinions, as I never went to school for HVAC and have zero new-install experience, and my friends and go-to contractors who did go to school are very unimaginative and tend to overlook basic stuff unless I'm there to check their work.
Get a dual circuit 100 ton air cooled and get extra sensors. EWT, LWT, and ambient are life or death for the whole chiller. In my opinion your application is way too small for water cooled condenser to have meaningful ROI.
 
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Are HVAC companies still quoting retarded installation costs for mini-split installs? I was wondering because in the rest of the world you just buy what you need and either put it in yourself or ask the super to hire some handyman to put it in for like $100. Meanwhile guys in America were quoting absurd costs for a system.
Most people are in business to make money. (I wouldn’t drive past a customer and wave for $100) Otherwise, you can roll the dice with some sort of handyman who might do a shit job, or do some research buy some tools and do it yourself.

I just sold two dual zone mini split systems for 13k each. Residential system replacements are around 10k.
 
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Are HVAC companies still quoting retarded installation costs for mini-split installs? I was wondering because in the rest of the world you just buy what you need and either put it in yourself or ask the super to hire some handyman to put it in for like $100. Meanwhile guys in America were quoting absurd costs for a system.
I got out of residential back in 2015 and even back then Mitsubishi shit was marketed as a 'premium' option when in reality it's a third world solution barely above a windowshaker. A great scam on the American consumer. We barely managed to sell any despite being a 'Diamond' shop.

I just installed a few GREE units for myself and a relative. They're remarkably nice for about a third the cost of a Jap unit.
 
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I got out of residential back in 2015 and even back then Mitsubishi shit was marketed as a 'premium' option when in reality it's a third world solution barely above a windowshaker. A great scam on the American consumer. We barely managed to sell any despite being a 'Diamond' shop.

I just installed a few GREE units for myself and a relative. They're remarkably nice for about a third the cost of a Jap unit.
Gree, Midea, Bosch and Carrier are minisplit the same iirc after I had to help a friend with 4 leaking heads. The only reason I like Mitsubishi is that I don’t need a 5/16 adapter.
 
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Most people are in business to make money. (I wouldn’t drive past a customer and wave for $100) Otherwise, you can roll the dice with some sort of handyman who might do a shit job, or do some research buy some tools and do it yourself.

I just sold two dual zone mini split systems for 13k each. Residential system replacements are around 10k.
McDonald’s has made more money selling burgers for a dollar than the entire HVAC industry combined. If you can’t adapt to the market then it’s only a matter of time that the consumers catch the drift. $10k in labor for two hours of work amounts to $5,000/hr. Literal electrical engineers don’t make that kind of money. And let’s be honest, how many of these installs are actually tailored to the house with a Manual J load calc, etc.
 
Gree, Midea, Bosch and Carrier are minisplit the same iirc after I had to help a friend with 4 leaking heads. The only reason I like Mitsubishi is that I don’t need a 5/16 adapter.
They are pretty much all the same so like someone said earlier it’s best to get whoever can give you the best warranty, support, parts, etc.
 
GREE and Midea are two separate companies but are 2/3 of the Chinese triumvirate (along with HiSense) that makes about 3/4 of the world's mini splits. Both DIY off-brands and OEMs.
 
They are pretty much all the same so like someone said earlier it’s best to get whoever can give you the best warranty, support, parts, etc.
I think they’re all garbage and it’s better off to pick your poison. I hate VRF because it’s annoying to have to pull a charge or to take apart the entire unit. It also just feels like it’s garbage.
 
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